Hi. Overwhelmed new guy here!

[Mr. Cloudz]

worth noting, Buzzzard, an rda is highly customizeable because you make your own wicks and coils, whereas a clearo you simply buy premade ones. that lets you crank the strength of the hit up or down depending on your preference. both kinds have a wick (most commonly organic cotton) that absorbs the eliquid, and a metal coil surrounding it that heats up, turning it into a vapor.

 

[Buzzzard]

Is there much difference between the MvP 3 pro and the sobox? They appear to be very similar items, is there any important specs I'm not seeing which gives one an advantage over the other?

 

[Buzzzard]

I've read the term "box mod" a lot. What is the definition of "box mod"?

 

[SleeZy]

box mods are great, dont get me wrong, but perhaps a bit overly complicated for someone brand new to vaping. i had a Kamry K100 mechanical mod and legion RDA combo that made a good starter Vape

Not to be rude, but this is way worse recommendation to a beginner than a box mod.
Mechs doesnt have any safety built in whatsoever, compared to boxmods. (Battery drain, coil shorting/to low ohm/reverse battery protection etc)

Box mods got all the safety you need (unless you're looking at mechanical ones, that's a BIG NO for beginners)

Edit:

Is there much difference between the MvP 3 pro and the sobox? They appear to be very similar items, is there any important specs I'm not seeing which gives one an advantage over the other?

MVP3 got an inbuilt battery so when it dies, you need to buy an entirely new device. (EDIT HERE: i don't mean every recharge, but once the battery wont hold the charge anymore)
Subox you use your own 18650 batteries (must be 20A or higher capable batteries such as sony vtc4/5)

And the subox is smaller and includes a tank that looks realy slick with it.
I personally don't like inbuilt battery mods. I much rather like to just replace the battery once its out and put the other one on the charger.

When the mvp goes out, you've nothing to vape while you're charging.
(i thin it does have pass-through but i don't recommend using that)

 

[Wolfenstark]

Uk stores are usually more expensive than the USA stores or Australian stores. plus we only get around half the pound on the exchange rate.

 

[Mr. Cloudz]

none that i can tell. you can find reviews online that will help you decide which one you prefer. a box mod is a type of mechanical mod, one component of an ecig. its purpose is to house the battery, and deliver power to the RDA (the other major component). a box mod is generally box shaped (regular mods tend to be cylindrical) and often box mods allow you to adjust specific things that effect the way your ecig functions, such as wattage and temperature.

 

[SleeZy]

none that i can tell. you can find reviews online that will help you decide which one you prefer. a box mod is a type of mechanical mod, one component of an ecig. its purpose is to house the battery, and deliver power to the RDA (the other major component). a box mod is generally box shaped (regular mods tend to be cylindrical) and often box mods allow you to adjust specific things that effect the way your ecig functions, such as wattage and temperature.

Sorry, there is a huge diffrence between a mechanical box mod and a regulated one.

"box mod" just refered to the rectangle look.
Mvp
Mvp2
Mvp3
Subox
kbox

And plenty more is regulated box mods.

Cherry bomber box mod is just a pure mechanical mod however.

Quick edit:
Mechanical mods aren't adviced for any newbie at all out there. Since you need to know about ohms law and battery safety and more to that... Esp cherry one.

Regulated mods got safety features to prevent all the "downsides" of a mechanical mod.
Mechanical mod in a sence is just a battery holder. It'll fire anything you put on it even a shorted coil = battery thermal runaway.

Regulated mods got protection against all these stuff. It's regulated by a chip inside the mod. Quite the diffrence

 

[Buzzzard]

I'm pretty keen on the Sobox at the moment. I have a reasonable grip on electronics, I make and repair Audio gear, And everything on the unit looks pretty auto. So what do I need to add to my shopping list... Some spare coils and wicks I guess, how many? A couple of spare batteries can't go astray either.

 

[NealBJr]

I've read the term "box mod" a lot. What is the definition of "box mod"?

pretty much a box mod is mod that's shaped similar to or like a box. I know it sounds simple, but the box mod design allows the electronics to be housed beside the battery, and thus reduces the overall height of the mod. for mechanicals, a box mod allows the switch to be on the side instead of below. or above the battery. The tube mods offer a slimmer, albeit taller solution. most people prefer box mods because it's easier to pocket without having half your mod stick out of your pocket. There are other reasons, but those are the main ones.

Now, with the MVP 3 pro, it has the battery built in. That means that when the battery dies, it will have to be plugged in. With the subox design, it has a battery compartment that you can put your own battery in. With the subbox, if your battery is starting to run low, you can swap it out for a freshly charged one. It also gives you the option to charge on the device like the MVP. The downside is, you have to supply your own battery and charger to charge separately. Make sure you get good batteries from a trusted vendor... Sony VTC4's are the safest at the moment.

 

[Wolfenstark]

Thread here about the subox
New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Buzzzard]

pretty much a box mod is mod that's shaped similar to or like a box. I know it sounds simple, but the box mod design allows the electronics to be housed beside the battery, and thus reduces the overall height of the mod. for mechanicals, a box mod allows the switch to be on the side instead of below. or above the battery. The tube mods offer a slimmer, albeit taller solution. most people prefer box mods because it's easier to pocket without having half your mod stick out of your pocket. There are other reasons, but those are the main ones.

Now, with the MVP 3 pro, it has the battery built in. That means that when the battery dies, it will have to be plugged in. With the subox design, it has a battery compartment that you can put your own battery in. With the subbox, if your battery is starting to run low, you can swap it out for a freshly charged one. It also gives you the option to charge on the device like the MVP. The downside is, you have to supply your own battery and charger to charge separately. Make sure you get good batteries from a trusted vendor... Sony VTC4's are the safest at the moment.

Thanks, good info. Sells me on the subox more too, which I was already leaning to.

 

[Mr. Cloudz]

in total, you'll need:
-a mechanical mod (or box mod)
-an RDA or RBA
-copper or nickel coils (personally i prefer nickel)
-wicks
- a couple batteries (usually 18650 high drain rechargeable batteries, though you should check to be sure this is the kind your mod takes)
-a charger for the same
-e liquid

 

[SleeZy]

I'm pretty keen on the Sobox at the moment. I have a reasonable grip on electronics, I make and repair Audio gear, And everything on the unit looks pretty auto. So what do I need to add to my shopping list... Some spare coils and wicks I guess, how many? A couple of spare batteries can't go astray either.

The subbox comes with a 0.5 ohm coil and a 1.2 ohm one. and a RBA (do it your self) deck.
So you only realy need the batteries and a charger ontop of the subox kit.
I suggest sony vtc 4/5 if you can get them. (mine has lasted over 1 year atm and they're rated for 30A)

If you want to build the coils i suggest you read around abit first. But you will want 26 / 28 / 30 awg kanthal these 3 are the most common sizes to start with. And then some organic cotton to use for wicking. But all this might be abit to much of a "head dive right in" so i recommend you to read around first.

But anyway that's another GREAt thing about subox kit. You get 2 premade coilds, and a RBA deck so essentially the subtank is an RBA.

Here's a great review i suggest you to watch through.

 

[SleeZy]

in total, you'll need:
-a mechanical mod (or box mod)
-an RDA or RBA
-copper or nickel coils (personally i prefer nickel)
-wicks
- a couple batteries (usually 18650 high drain rechargeable batteries, though you should check to be sure this is the kind your mod takes)
-a charger for the same
-e liquid

Dude, PLEASE stop advicing a newbie a mech mod. PERIOD.
And kanthal is a better starting point for a new beginner to coil building.

 

[Mr. Cloudz]

Excuse the $#!+ out of me for trying to be helpful

 

[SleeZy]

Excuse the $#!+ out of me for trying to be helpful

Sorry i don't wanna come out as rude.
But recommending a mech for a new guy is just made for a disaster.
He even said that he doesn't understand all of this yet, so a mech is totally a no go. Until he have done his "homework"

A regulated mod will do just fine for him to learn how all this works - safetly.
If he build a shorted coil and fire it on a mech his battery will vent right away. It's quite a learning curve before it's safe to use a mechanical mod.

 

[dom qp]

Some of the advice here is good, some of it is really bad. Please listen to @SleeZy

For what it's worth, i'm a big fan of recommending the MVP3 Pro to beginners when possible.

• They are built incredibly strong, extremely robust
• You can use them while charging via usb (some people don't like this, on the MVP I absolutely see no problem)
• You can use any tank with premade coils
• You can use RDAs/RTAs once you decide you want to go that route
• Big battery capacity
• Accurate resistance reader
• No fuss, no issues - sets the bar in consistency and reliability

The MVP family is the e-cig equivalent of the AK-47 family of guns. Mine has literally been drowned in water, had the charger rusted while plugged in, untouched for over a year, and still turned on.

Edit: Australian Bonus: you could probably kill a crocodile/dingo/giant spider/big snake by throwing an MVP at it.

 

[NealBJr]

in total, you'll need:
-a mechanical mod (or box mod)
-an RDA or RBA
-copper or nickel coils (personally i prefer nickel)
-wicks
- a couple batteries (usually 18650 high drain rechargeable batteries, though you should check to be sure this is the kind your mod takes)
-a charger for the same
-e liquid

That is an insanely dangerous suggestion!!!! mechanical mod with copper or nickel wires?!?!?!?!

Mechanical mods should be used with kanthal or nichrome wire. Those are resistance wires. Nickel or copper will lead to dead shorts and very likely a venting and/or exploding battery if used in a mechanical mod.

Box mods can be both mechanical or regulated. I suggest for someone first learning coils, to use a regulated device, like a subox. You have enough power to blow some clouds for days, but with a backup to prevent you from mistakes.

 

[SleeZy]

Some of the advice here is good, some of it is really bad. Please listen to @SleeZy

For what it's worth, i'm a big fan of recommending the MVP3 Pro to beginners when possible. They typically don't ever need to upgrade and save money by buying what they need right away.

Thank you, and i agree. Mvp3 is suberb for a starter kit.
However i still like subox above it just due we can switch out battery out whenever we want. And it comes with a great tank. (1.2 ohm coil, 0.5 ohm coil, RBA deck) So it has it all in one. Mouth to lung (1.2 ohm coil) Lung hit (0.5ohm coil) and RBA to learn how the building your own thing works. And the subox won't fire a shorted coil, it won't fire under 0.3 ohm coil (under that is dangerous buiss)

All in all regulated kit that comes with it all basicly. Gives the user plenty of time to learn all of the vaping sides. And if rebuilding isn't for x / y well then you've prebuilt coils to buy. If you want to make your own coils - you can do so.
So it's a great all in one kit, excluding the battery + charger (dont skimp on these)

I started rebuilding protank coils which was quite the hassle... Compared today. So todays beginners got a easier time, in a sence. But it's more info to aquire aswell. So i totally see why ppl get overwhelmed. like here. That's why i also strongly adviced AGAINST mechanicals.

 

[SleeZy]

That is an insanely dangerous suggestion!!!! mechanical mod with copper or nickel wires?!?!?!?!

Mechanical mods should be used with kanthal or nichrome wire. Those are resistance wires. Nickel or copper will lead to dead shorts and very likely a venting and/or exploding battery if used in a mechanical mod.

Box mods can be both mechanical or regulated. I suggest for someone first learning coils, to use a regulated device, like a subox. You have enough power to blow some clouds for days, but with a backup to prevent you from mistakes.

He doesn't know how to separate a mech from regulated so, i'm thinking either he's trolling or he's just missinformed and i hope he learned something from this thread.