-High-End Mechanicals and Atomizers-Pictures & Discussion Round 2-
- Thread starter JmanEspresso
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So this is my 1st somewhat high end mech mod, actually my 1st mech mod period lol. I was wondering if anyone is familiar with the Petri because I have yet to put a build in it because the rda really doesn't have a protruding pin. I mean it sticks out a tiny bit but since it's my 1st mech I'm nervous to even use it lol. Anyone know these mods well that could give me some pointers? Any advice about mech safety would be appreciated too [emoji16] I did get myself a pair LG HB4s so at least I have some nice 30A cells
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Hello, congrats on your new set up, its really great looking. I dont have a petri MOD nor RDA, so not familiar with it.
If its a Hybrid : meaning that it has either no top cap or a disc with just a hole, then you do have to make sure your 510 positive pin is protruding about 3-5 mm? Again I have no hybrids so not exactly sure of the safe amount that its supposed to protrude.
If its a reg 510 top cap , meaning it has a threaded 510 connection with an adjustable , usually brass or sterling plated pin then its just a standard 510 connection and the pin only has to protrude enough to clear the threaded part.
I found this photo that sort of shows the differences
This is a standard
Hybrid
I also found this that seems to sum up the do's and dont's of hybrids
If its a Hybrid : meaning that it has either no top cap or a disc with just a hole, then you do have to make sure your 510 positive pin is protruding about 3-5 mm? Again I have no hybrids so not exactly sure of the safe amount that its supposed to protrude.
If its a reg 510 top cap , meaning it has a threaded 510 connection with an adjustable , usually brass or sterling plated pin then its just a standard 510 connection and the pin only has to protrude enough to clear the threaded part.
I found this photo that sort of shows the differences
This is a standard
Hybrid
I also found this that seems to sum up the do's and dont's of hybrids
The positive pin needs to protrude at least 2 mm, ideally more. Bear in mind that the positive contact on your battery will tend to become concave with use further lessening your safety margin.
They are used because they are cheaper to manufacture, simpler to use and are arguably more aesthetically pleasing. However they are marketed as making a massive difference in voltage drop. In my experience the voltage drop difference between a direct to battery and a well designed regular 510 is negligible.
They are used because they are cheaper to manufacture, simpler to use and are arguably more aesthetically pleasing. However they are marketed as making a massive difference in voltage drop. In my experience the voltage drop difference between a direct to battery and a well designed regular 510 is negligible.
Haku Cruiser on Satburn. I love the Haku - super easy to build, very smooth airflow, great flavour. I'm just using a single SS coil at around 0.7 ohm. Simple and delicious.
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you there. If you are having to build so low, you are doing something wrong.
man if you're going for clouds, then you will stay at 0.11 or lower.. but for flavour or mtl you can easely stay higher! I vape tobacco on my mechs at 1.10 / 1.20...
For the love of 18350's..
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Wow it finally happened, (clean up) photo bucket bull....
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.24-.28ish for me on single cell mechs.
Not for safety, just for the vape.
Sometimes a little lower or higher depending on wire/build.
Kanthal wire and rayon wicks.
Not for safety, just for the vape.
Sometimes a little lower or higher depending on wire/build.
Kanthal wire and rayon wicks.
Tell me how to get n90 20ga higher
I don't like the taste of K A1 so I'm down to ss n80 and n90
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When ur cheep ohm reader tells you .11 and find out on ur DNA what it really is
Hold my beer why I blow this crap up
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