High End Vape setup
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What do you mean hard to make it work? How can they sell ..... that doesn't work? That kind of stuff really irritates me.
A Genesis type atomizer takes some effort to work, you need to make the wick and coil yourself. And there is usually hours of frustrating trial and error involved. But yet, when you get it working, it's worth it....
i've been vaping for 1.5 years. have build my first tank from a syringe 1.2 years ago. have rebuild all kind of clearomizers using all kind of wicks and coils, build many vv mods with various potentiometers. diy all kind of liquids with all kind of flavors. and after all this time i still can't manage to get a good genesis coil sometimes. believe me it's not a beginner thing.
a genesis RBA or even an RBA using silica or cotton wick isn't THAT hard to get.
I made my 1st genesis wick 1st try with little to no troubles.
W/a vv mod that tells you when you have a short, its easy peasy. I can recommend RBAs to new-ish vapers.
I made my 1st genesis wick 1st try with little to no troubles.
W/a vv mod that tells you when you have a short, its easy peasy. I can recommend RBAs to new-ish vapers.
That's what I was looking for, someone to say newbies need to start with basics..... which is me<<< I want a VV but not a pavari or carvella, I like the ego c that I currently have but I would like a VV with a tank, or thought about getting a vivi for this but wasn't sure if it would fit or not or which cartos to buy for it..?
I want a VV but not a pavari or carvella, I like the ego c that I currently have but I would like a VV with a tank, or thought about getting a vivi for this but wasn't sure if it would fit or not or which cartos to buy for it..?What's an RBA and how do you rebuild one? new orings, coil wire and wick? What do you guys recommend for a small clearomizer for the mini? Do they last a while? Should I stock up on like 50 of them, or just buy a few with all the parts I need to rebuild.
I converted this from 1/5 scale to 1/8 scale, so I know how to build and rebuild stuff.
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac187/knuckleslammer/buggy.jpg?t=1354130569
I converted this from 1/5 scale to 1/8 scale, so I know how to build and rebuild stuff.
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac187/knuckleslammer/buggy.jpg?t=1354130569
one thing to consider is if you plan on taking it out of the house or put it in your pocket, many are not good for casual everyday use(away from desk use). I take mine out on the job all day and has not broken yet. I purchased several types to get one that works for me and you may as well. just make sure you consider your lifestyle when purchasing.
That's what I was looking for, someone to say newbies need to start with basics..... which is me<<<
The vivi nova is a CE style clearomizer tank, it does not utilize cartomizers, rather, it uses replaceable heads.
If you are going to get one for the variable voltage eGo batteries (twist/spinner) the MINI vivi nova fits great. You can order what most vendors call a "tank flange" or "flange" which will hide the eGo connection of your eGo battery. This flange makes the tank look like it is a part of the design of your twist or spinner eGo battery. The vivi nova tank can be made like-new with a new coil head. Most tank KITS come with 3 coil heads to get u started. You can also buy silica wick and kanthal coil and rebuild a vivi nova head, which you can learn from watching Utube vids.
Rebuilding isn't HARD, it just takes patience so that you get it done correctly. Having a mod with a protection circuit built in is important with rebuilding because a short can break your mod/b dangerous.
RBA = Generally accepted as an abbreviation for a Rebuildable dripping Atomizer.
An RBA tank, or RBAT, or RAT for Rebuildable Atomizer Tank, is a rebuildable atomizer tank that holds more e-liquid.
Rebuilding doesn't mean that your going to be putting together parts. It simply means that you are going to have the ability to MAKE a new heating element rather than disposing of the entire unit when the heating element loses its functionality. Rebuilding is fairly easy, as long as you do know what you are doing. For this, you can either read here on the forums or search youtube for How-To videos. You basically just need some stainless steel mesh, OR silica/cotton wick, and coil, which is kanthal or strainless steel wire. You wrap the wire around the wicking material, put the wicking material into the tank, and then place the 2 ends of your wrapped coil into their respective posts. That is all there is to rebuilding. To avoid shorting out your mod, you need to oxidize your mesh, if that is what your wick will be made of. Oxidizing is as simple as taking a torch or flame to your stainless steel mesh to develop a layer of oxidation, so that your metal wick does not touch the metal body of your rebuildable atomizer. You just drop your wicking material into the hole and fasten the 2 ends of the wire to the posts.
The term GENESIS atomizer specifically refers to using, or the ability to use, stainless steel mesh as wicking material.
Hi there , that unit looks to be the perfect size I would want, what model is that and is that the AGAt+ that you linked to?
Thanks for the explanation. When you say dripping I assume there is nothing that holds the liquid, as you have to drip it in to use it?
right. a dripping atty has no tank. Its just got the 2 posts that your coil ends need to touch, and the coil is wrapped around the wick. You drip directly onto the wick and vape those drips. There are some RBA dripping attys that do have a small well where 10-20 drops will stay. For this design, you use a longer wick, with the coil in them middle and the tails inside the well. any excess drips are absorbed by the wick tails.
Also, Tankman, the cheapest versions of the titanide "Titanide 10" are 10k gold I believe? No? And the Curve is 40 dollars cheaper than the cheapest Titanide set up. Its brass rather than gold. And I believe brass is more durable than 10k gold. I dont thin eNstix even has the 24k gold titanides in stock at this time. They have 10 and 14 from what I saw on the site today.
Also, Tankman, the cheapest versions of the titanide "Titanide 10" are 10k gold I believe? No? And the Curve is 40 dollars cheaper than the cheapest Titanide set up. Its brass rather than gold. And I believe brass is more durable than 10k gold. I dont thin eNstix even has the 24k gold titanides in stock at this time. They have 10 and 14 from what I saw on the site today.
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The 10 and 14 refer to the battery sizes - 10440 and 14500, not the gold.
Also it is gold plated brass. The price difference however comes from the fact that the titanide is made out of titanium primarily, which is far more expensive than stainless steel. In addition to that the button for the titanide is inlaid with mother of pearl or abalone (can't remember).
Basically, you the nhaler version is made from less expensive materials and doesn't have the "fancy" accents. The unplated brass will tarnish quickly and will require polishing to keep the appearance up. It is also substantially heavier due to the weight difference between steel and titanium.
It's a "no frills" version, which is why there is a price difference.
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Also it is gold plated brass. The price difference however comes from the fact that the titanide is made out of titanium primarily, which is far more expensive than stainless steel. In addition to that the button for the titanide is inlaid with mother of pearl or abalone (can't remember).
Basically, you the nhaler version is made from less expensive materials and doesn't have the "fancy" accents. The unplated brass will tarnish quickly and will require polishing to keep the appearance up. It is also substantially heavier due to the weight difference between steel and titanium.
It's a "no frills" version, which is why there is a price difference.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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AH, thanks for clearing that up. I knew the price reflected the titanium but I thought the 10 and 14 = gold.
But yeah, the Curve is cheaper and not made of ridiculously expensive metals. lol. I like both. But I'd get the Curve.
Personally.
But yeah, the Curve is cheaper and not made of ridiculously expensive metals. lol. I like both. But I'd get the Curve.
Personally.
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