Oops were you referring to not removing the screw and not removing the plastic cover?
Or just referring to not removing the screw on the inside of the mod?
Hmm...less power?
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Oops were you referring to not removing the screw and not removing the plastic cover?
Or just referring to not removing the screw on the inside of the mod?
Both. You can if you want to. I just know that some have had difficulties getting the screw and cover back in properly.
Okay...well, if you have trouble getting it back in, don't force it and strip the threading. Call Rob for assistance.
I bought a ultrasonic cleaner after reading that it was good for cleaning attys (I was hoping I would quit killing them), then today my newer mini firing pin (plastic part) started sticking...I had a great idea...filled the ultrasonic cleaner half w/ water and half w/ PGA and put my whole mini in there and ran it through 2 cycles. All I can say is WOW!!! The plastic button doesn't stick anymore and it's sparkly clean!! I just blew out all the solution, and shook it dry, put in an atty, wiped inside out, put in a battery and it vapes better than ever!! I've since "washed" all my metal REOs with the ultrasonic cleaner. My particular model was Amazon for less than $30 shipped. I highly recommend it!! CD-2800.... Just search for it there- I'm trying to recall the manufacturer but 2 manufacturers w/ the same model number and the pictures of them were identical.. It works flawlessly- cleans at 48K hz by shaking it to loosen stuff... Btw, works great on jewelry and watches too! If a lot of folks respond to this post, I may post this as a separate thread elsewhere.
Nope- not a bit, but I would say the Naolox on the firing pin would be a gonner after this type of cleaning...
I have an ultra sonic I bought from Harbor Frieght that's a nice unit. I'll have to try it on the next cleaning I do. Sounds like a good idea.
Off topic, but my bottom screw is stripped from trying to get it out, the one that holds the spring plate in, has anyone figured a way to get these out besides using a backout bit ?,,, or I should say has anyone used a backout bit or drilled theres out without messing the threads up ? I want to change mine and its driving me nuts so before I take a drill to it,,, you know
I have not taken mine out (my original Reo's have small allen heads)- The new ones are phillips heads... you might try cutting a notch in it (I know it's small) but then you could use a small slotted screw driver. I suppose you want to replace w/ the newer style screw. On screws and bolts stuck in autos, I've used PB Blaster and also tried heating things up. If you still have trouble getting it out, you might try that...and maybe holding the tip of a soldering iron directly to the screw to heat it to see if that breaks it loose. Good luck!!
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Ya mines the old Allen nut, the soldering iron is a good idea Dave thanks gonna try that
I maybe be wrong here (my disclaimer) but I don't think the body of the Reo is threaded. I think the screw threads just grip on the spring base. THe body of the Reo has a taper where the screw fits in but just that.
I say this because my Grand has an allen head and I wanted to change it to the phillips head. I asked Rob and he said they are interchangeable. My Grand has no theading in the body.
That's good to know...might be worth trying to grab the spring retainer in the body while turning or actually turn the spring retainer counter-clock-wise, looking at it from the top. Just be careful not to fubar the spring part. It looks to be fairly soft.
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