Homemade USB Passthrough (m401).

[Zep--]

I used vice grips on the battery tube, and needle nose vice grips on the tiny gold band on the connector, then I just twisted and pulled a bit (10 seconds worth) and it came right off.

The m401/402 connector does not seem to be glued in, the lower end of the connector (the part in the tube) is serrated and it's more of a pressure fit, other connectors seem to be glued in and heating them up a bit loosens them up.

Zep--

 

[Zep--]

If I make another one, I will probably just try to pop the thing out from the LED end, get the battery out then insert something into the tube to push the connector out that way.

Zep--

 

[Onthespot]

I just opned a 2 USB cables and in one of them there are 4 wieres ( Black , Red , green , white ) in the other are there 3 ( green , red , white ) how do i know witch is + and - ?

 

[Zep--]

I used Black and Red on the 4 wire i cut off a mouse.

What did you take the cables from? Perhaps the 3 wire one didn't need power?

Zep--

 

[Onthespot]

The one whit 4 is a USB cable whit usb in both ends and the one whit 3 is a mp4 connector/Recharger

 

[Zep--]

Typically, 2 of the wires are "data" wires to transfer information to and from the computer, and the other 2 wires are the Positive and Negative for the power.

When I did it, to be sure before soldering, i just touched 1 wire to the center post of the atomizer (the bottom, not the wick end) then tried the other 3 on the side, when I did red and black that way, the atomizer started glowing (give it a second to fire up), so I knew I had the right wires.

I'd reccomend getting a powered usb hub to avoid blowing up your computer while experimenting. You don't need the hub connected to the computer to use the usb passthru.

Zep--

 

[Onthespot]

Typically, 2 of the wires are "data" wires to transfer information to and from the computer, and the other 2 wires are the Positive and Negative for the power.

When I did it, to be sure before soldering, i just touched 1 wire to the center post of the atomizer (the bottom, not the wick end) then tried the other 3 on the side, when I did red and black that way, the atomizer started glowing (give it a second to fire up), so I knew I had the right wires.

I'd reccomend getting a powered usb hub to avoid blowing up your computer while experimenting. You don't need the hub connected to the computer to use the usb passthru.

Zep--

Will try that now, Do you have a diagram of your mod?

 

[Onthespot]

Okay thanks i know its red and black now.

 

[Zep--]

Sorry no diagrams..but..make sure you push the wire thru the tube before you start soldering!

Zep--

 

[Zep--]

Will try that now, Do you have a diagram of your mod?

I do now!

Zep--

 

[Zep--]

Oops..fixed my diagram above..where it used to say "Bottom of Atomizer", it now correctly says "Bottom of Removed Battery Connector"

Zep--

 

[JonHarm]

I still don't understand why the included pressure switch in the M401 doesn't seem to play a part in this mod. Can you spell it out for me?

 

[Zep--]

The built-in microphone switch is too finicky.

Zep--

 

[Casual Vaping]

I guess I cant link here yet, but here is a easy DIY USB pass through.
lifesinsight dot com /diy-tutorial-pass-through-cable-for-electronic-cigarettes/

 

[Txrider]

I still don't understand why the included pressure switch in the M401 doesn't seem to play a part in this mod. Can you spell it out for me?

Because they didnt want it that way.

Sounds like it would be quite simple to just open up the LED end and if two of the wires are + and _ to the battery, just connect up the red/black USB wires, heat shrink wrap it and your done, using the batteries internal pressure switch. I'll likely try it soon enough.

 

[Fox3]

I was worried about those too when I first built my USBPTs. They do seem to work just fine (going on a couple months now). Recovered those from scrap printed circuit boards.

My homebrews were 801s and I just drilled a hole in the battery body and trimmed the push part of the switch down to where it would just slide into the battery tube. Once positioned under the hole, I push a length of Q-Tip shaft under it and super glue it in position.

Woiks .

 

[Adeem]

I'm trying to make one using the existing (microphone) switch. Took of the LED, took out the battery. I'm assuming the 2 wires coming up are + and - and are coming from the switch. One's black and the other is blue. Does anyone know which one I should attach to the black wire in the USB cable? Is it black to black? Please help. (This is the first time I'm trying anything like this...)
Thanks

 

[Adeem]

Sounds like it would be quite simple to just open up the LED end and if two of the wires are + and _ to the battery, just connect up the red/black USB wires, heat shrink wrap it and your done, using the batteries internal pressure switch. I'll likely try it soon enough.

Did you do it? I'd like to try it (as per my post above) and any help would be appreciated.

 

[emus]

I'm trying to make one using the existing (microphone) switch. Took of the LED, took out the battery. I'm assuming the 2 wires coming up are + and - and are coming from the switch. One's black and the other is blue. Does anyone know which one I should attach to the black wire in the USB cable? Is it black to black? Please help. (This is the first time I'm trying anything like this...)
Thanks

The battery housing is negative.

 

[emus]

So a 50ma switch should ok on a 500ma USB power?

Zep--

A 50ma switch is rated to reliably handle currents up to 50ma.
I use a 3000ma microswitch and 1500ma power supply on my passthru which produces tons of vapor.
I have seen reports of 50ma switches working fine.
Lucky the 50ma can't talk, I'm sure it would complain.
Your PC will like the 50ma switch because the switches lower current capacity means the PC will not have to work as hard.