I've run into a roadblock. I'm still trying to figure out how to wire mosfets so I can simply unscrew my atty and screw the battery into a stock charger and have it charge the battery. I got it so a switch works the mosfet and opens opens for vaping. but I'm still stumped how to properly make it so the charger when screwed into the battery allows it to charge. Pressing the button on the battery is not an option. If anyone has this solution I'd be very grateful. I havn't been able to figure out the way to wire it like a stock battery works. obviously using stock electronics isn't an option due to the current required.
How can I charge my battery mod via the battery connector and NOT removing the batteries - mosfets
- Thread starter Gigaah
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Depending on the charger, you can usually do it with just a diode...... the lower the voltage drop of the diode the better.
The solution is a electronic switch (mosfet). When you detect a voltage on the connector (charger) , you will switch on this mosfet to charge the batterie.
the diode is not a solution because it will cause excessive voltage drop. An ego operates on the principle
the diode is not a solution because it will cause excessive voltage drop. An ego operates on the principle
Did you red the "depending on the charger" part???
The diode IS the method that I use.. and it is the method that I have used with my personal design for about a year now. Just FYI.
But you are correct, you can design a more elaborate system using a MOSFET.... keeping in mind that the eGo/Riva does that because they also monitor the charge voltage within the battery and the controller is an active component in the charging system.
I have used both Schottky and germanium diodes in my circuit. Forward voltage drops of under 250mV @ less than 500mA.
As far as the charger is concerned, I started with an external Li-Ion utility charger that had an adjustable cutoff voltage. Later I transitioned to a smaller USB generic unit (designed for a KR808D-1 battery) where I was able to change the cutoff voltage via the two-resistor voltage divider. Both have worked quite well.
If you're familiar with my Super TorneGo II, that's the charger that I have in the desk stand.
If the "modder" is using a standard cell and an external charger, they may want to take that charger apart and see if it already has a series diode in the output stage of the charging circuit (some do for reverse polarity protection). If that's the case, move the diode into the PV and terminate the charger with the appropriate battery connector. The diode V-drop is already accounted-for in the charger circuitry and cutoff settings. Easy.
All that being said, there is nothing wrong (at all) with using the MOSFET if you know how to select and configure the device.
As far as the charger is concerned, I started with an external Li-Ion utility charger that had an adjustable cutoff voltage. Later I transitioned to a smaller USB generic unit (designed for a KR808D-1 battery) where I was able to change the cutoff voltage via the two-resistor voltage divider. Both have worked quite well.
If you're familiar with my Super TorneGo II, that's the charger that I have in the desk stand.
If the "modder" is using a standard cell and an external charger, they may want to take that charger apart and see if it already has a series diode in the output stage of the charging circuit (some do for reverse polarity protection). If that's the case, move the diode into the PV and terminate the charger with the appropriate battery connector. The diode V-drop is already accounted-for in the charger circuitry and cutoff settings. Easy.
All that being said, there is nothing wrong (at all) with using the MOSFET if you know how to select and configure the device.
What I'm after is to be able to charge the battery with a standard 510 battery charger.No mods to the charger. just screw it in and let it charge
This is not a standard cell. Its actually a top of the line lithium polymer cell.
I've been going on the assumption however that standard 510 batteries have built in over charge current and voltage protection built in. If they don't and the charger handles that..well then it makes things easier for me. I doubt a 510 charger produced can feed it more current than it can handle. Obviously I'll have to handle discharge protection no matter what.
Scottbee I'm thinking you have some of these answers for me. I just can't figure out how to make the charger open up a path to the battery to charge. I'm not that familiar with mosfets and I've been under the assumption thats how its done.
I can wire it up no problem to have a mosfet open and close power to the atty. I just don't know how to work things so when the atty is removed and the charged is put in its place it will charge the battery. I'm taking in a huge ammount of information working on this project this is really my sticking point due to my limited knowledge of the matter. I have electronics workbench(multisim 10) i've not been trying to trudge my way to a solution with that but its not easy for me.
If I have to I'll drive 1.5hrs to Okauchee Lake, WI from janesville to meet with an "electonics expert" aka ScottBee. lol
I'm just thinking the problem isn't all that difficult to resolve for the inclined. I just don't understand quite enough to design the circuit
.
I had planned on handling charge/discharge protection with IC's. The nice manufactueres of these IC's give handy diagrams that help me figure out how to wire the damn things. I just don't know how to handle the above stated issue.
This project is similar to baking a cake. I certainly don't know how to bake one from scratch. But if given instructions on what I need and roughly how they go together I can get it done and make minor changes to suit what I like. And for it all I will have learned a great deal about "baking a cake".
This is not a standard cell. Its actually a top of the line lithium polymer cell.
I've been going on the assumption however that standard 510 batteries have built in over charge current and voltage protection built in. If they don't and the charger handles that..well then it makes things easier for me. I doubt a 510 charger produced can feed it more current than it can handle. Obviously I'll have to handle discharge protection no matter what.
Scottbee I'm thinking you have some of these answers for me. I just can't figure out how to make the charger open up a path to the battery to charge. I'm not that familiar with mosfets and I've been under the assumption thats how its done.
I can wire it up no problem to have a mosfet open and close power to the atty. I just don't know how to work things so when the atty is removed and the charged is put in its place it will charge the battery. I'm taking in a huge ammount of information working on this project this is really my sticking point due to my limited knowledge of the matter. I have electronics workbench(multisim 10) i've not been trying to trudge my way to a solution with that but its not easy for me.
If I have to I'll drive 1.5hrs to Okauchee Lake, WI from janesville to meet with an "electonics expert" aka ScottBee. lol
I'm just thinking the problem isn't all that difficult to resolve for the inclined. I just don't understand quite enough to design the circuit
.I had planned on handling charge/discharge protection with IC's. The nice manufactueres of these IC's give handy diagrams that help me figure out how to wire the damn things
. I just don't know how to handle the above stated issue.This project is similar to baking a cake. I certainly don't know how to bake one from scratch. But if given instructions on what I need and roughly how they go together I can get it done and make minor changes to suit what I like. And for it all I will have learned a great deal about "baking a cake".
Last edited:
I use a rubber band to hold the switch ON
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...774-aluminum-box-mod-26650-boxmodoncharge.jpg
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...774-aluminum-box-mod-26650-boxmodoncharge.jpg
Last edited:
IF that was a P channel mosfet would that work? I think when I remove the atty. and screw it into a charger the +v from the charger should engerize the gate and allow current to flow to the battery from the charger? I'm not certain if the resistor setup is right or if I need one inline with the gate or not. I'm pretty sure the gate would be triggered when the mechanical was was pressed as well. I think that would be ok..still not sure.
Its probably obvious from that I don't completly understand things. But that has never stopped me from trying and figuring things out. 3 days ago I didn't even really know what a mosfet was. so work with me here
A P channel would need a negative/ ground voltage applied to the gate to open it to let a positive threw it. Just like a n channel requires a positive voltage going to the gate so the source and load switching is negative.
Ahhh yes. I see now. damn! I'm still crunching on this. Right now I'm thinking by my limited knowledge you'd have to switch both the neg and positive to get it done. But that feels wrong. I'm certain there is a cleaner way to do it.
And if you look at the operating voltages for the MOSFET that you specified, they're really all wrong for this type of application..... you want logic level switching.
Looking at this hello 016 chip really hard to see the traces since they use white PCB plus i am sick as hell right now. But it seems like they have two mosfets a p channel and a N channel. Also seems like the ground was isolated going to the battery connector. Meaning they didnt use the case as a ground although i have pulled some commercials apart where they did use the case as a ground. First thing i would do is mosfet your tactile switch it will never last pumping full amps to it. Once you do that the circuit might come to you easier. I personally wouldn't use logic level mosfet but one made for battery power applications rated 1.5 amps at least 2 to 3 amps would be better.
I haven't fully fleshed or pondered a schematic, but I think you can easily do this with my old friend the Vishay Si2333DS without any additional components. Gate goes to the atty (charger) negative connection.
Ummm... the "logic level" refers to logic level gate switching. The Vishay that I mentioned will handle over 3A in a SOT-23 package.
Please ignore all markings on the mosfets in the drawing. They are for illustration puposes only I have fets such as the Vishay lined up. Finding the appropriate mosfet in this multisim program eludes me. I would rather use a mosfet for the main switch but this charging thing has been making it difficult for me to do that. I'm trying tho. Here is my most recent guess for a solution. with one N ch and one P channel mosfet. I'll have to sleep on it unless someone chimes in with something better for me. I'm still uncertain if I have right /understand the resistors on the gates and have them right or not...upon other things.
Last edited:
Shall we say "Briiliant"
But I'm thinking (ah ohhh)..... Should there be a resistor to the gates on Boths sides? Drain and Source? -- chime in folks........
Great effort and thought Gigaah!
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
