How do you "no solder"
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General answer.
One way is to use no wire; each part touches the next and the metal case is part of the circuit. Possible with tube/torch type mods.
Another way is to crimping plugs to attach the wires.
One way is to use no wire; each part touches the next and the metal case is part of the circuit. Possible with tube/torch type mods.
Another way is to crimping plugs to attach the wires.
Kinabaloo, I have tried the no solder on a flashlight mod after modding the typical way of wires and contact points. I noticed a significant decrease in heat to my atomizer on the first and second drag. I know that there was no continuity issue, so I figured it would be an impedance issue, so since then I just gave up on the whole no solder idea unless the housing was small. Since you know much about circuitry, could you elaborate as to why there was a more significant drop in heat? Voltage registered the same, but I was wondering if amperage dropped doing it the no solder way.
You've hit on the downside - unsoldered contacts might not be good contacts.
In theory the contacts should well with virtually zero resistance, but even a fraction of an ohm will hinder performance. This will not show up by looking at volts off-load; but you will see the voltage drop under load (with atty powered) more than usual if a joint is bad. You could also check the resistance of each join with a meter, set to milli-Ohms.
Perhaps try it with fresh batteries.
Battery connectors are solderless contacts, so they can be good.
Have wondered whether the great performance of my touch-switch based device might be owed to a lower on -resistance; 0.014 ohms (max) is very low.
In theory the contacts should well with virtually zero resistance, but even a fraction of an ohm will hinder performance. This will not show up by looking at volts off-load; but you will see the voltage drop under load (with atty powered) more than usual if a joint is bad. You could also check the resistance of each join with a meter, set to milli-Ohms.
Perhaps try it with fresh batteries.
Battery connectors are solderless contacts, so they can be good.
Have wondered whether the great performance of my touch-switch based device might be owed to a lower on -resistance; 0.014 ohms (max) is very low.
Thanks for elaborating. So, using the aluminum housing such as the ever popular screwdriver to pass reverse voltage would hinder the true performance of the atty in comparison to running a small copper contact direct to pos/neg ends and 16-18 gauge wires. Atleast this is what I am mentally visualizing since reverse current has to funnel through such a large body. But i suppose it depends on the size battery being used, whether this would be negligable to the user. I'm using cr123a 1000mAh batteries, and although it claims 1000mAh, I don't think so.
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Try touching the lead contacts directly to each other on a multimeter set to ohms. Typically one finds about 0.5 ohm though can get lower is press hard. 0.5 ohm is equivalent to a 0.5 volt loss at 1amp. 0.014 is perhaps unbeatable by a push switch.
The size of the body as such would not cause any loss; it is better if anything. You could try measuring it to be sure but most metals have negligible resistance. The problem is most likely a join somewhere.
Note though that aluminium has a thin surface oxide - that could be the problem! And making contact with a different metal can make that problem worse.
Thanks! I absolutely forgot about the anodized coating within the casing of most of the flashlights. Gotta bust out the dremel next time I try the no solder.
ah
i see so it would be better to solder the - on the connector to the aluminium casing than
to just press fit it and let the circuit be made naturally gord
i see so it would be better to solder the - on the connector to the aluminium casing than
to just press fit it and let the circuit be made naturally gord
It is possible to "solder" aluminum, but it takes a torch and a special aluminum rod. You can't do it with a soldering iron.
A press fit should be fine, you will see very little, if any, loss. A nice tight fit is no different than screwing the aluminum together with threads.
Achieve the best possible contact before applying the glue; twist wires together (and cut off excess ends).
No experience with this. But check for any glue melting/burning once it is assembled. The conductive glue will likely have some resistance and so get hot under high current.
Actually there is a liquid type solder that can solder aluminum to aluminum
And an other that solders aluminum to other metals
I'm on my iPhone right now so I can't link the page but
a google of liquid solder should give the right page
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