How does a mech work?

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WattWick

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Thanks for the reply. Good points but a lot of my juices taste burnt at 8-9 watts. If I back them off to 6-7 watts they taste fine. I can't imagine 27+ watts.

It may well be that it's your wicking/filler material that taste burnt at higher wattage if it can't supply enough liquid to the coil. Liquids can only get so hot before they boil and are no longer liquid. Also:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html

Anyway, not to sound elitist or anything here, but mech mods doesn't really make sense until you try it for yourself. I think we've all asked ourselves the questions you're asking at one point... now all I have is mech mods. And some very rarely used ego batteries. Wouldn't miss them if I gave them away :)
 

Baditude

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What the above folks have said about the advantages of a mech mod over a regulated VV mod is true. However...

To take advantage of those, the commonly used and conventional over-the-counter juice attachments can not be used. Rebuildable juice attachments must be used which require DIY skills and knowledge. Not a big deal to learn, but not everyone wishes to go that route.

Also, mechanical mods have no built-in protective circuitry. YOU are the protection by using your knowledge and experience to not run into trouble. Regulated mods are a safer choice for a novice to learn on and can keep you out of more trouble than a mechanical mod can.
 
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ut1205

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It may well be that it's your wicking/filler material that taste burnt at higher wattage if it can't supply enough liquid to the coil. Liquids can only get so hot before they boil and are no longer liquid. Also:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html

Anyway, not to sound elitist or anything here, but mech mods doesn't really make sense until you try it for yourself. I think we've all asked ourselves the questions you're asking at one point... now all I have is mech mods. And some very rarely used ego batteries. Wouldn't miss them if I gave them away :)

Watts are a measere of current flow. If they are not important why does everyone want "protected" batteries. If you are pulling 25 watts through a switch engineered for a maximum of 10 watts you are definitely going to get heat and probably failure. Why is the "switch" to turn off your 100 amp home breaker box larger (more heavy duty) than the switch to turn a 100 watt bulb on? The conversation was about a hot "button" and wicking material doesn't really matter. You can submerge the wick and coil in a bucket of water to keep it cool but if you're pulling 25 watts through a 10 watt device something is going to fail. This is what makes the button spring collapse.

Edit: Got my post mixed up. Hot button is another thread but this just doesn' sound safe to me. I'm afraid it will generate more stories about exploding batteries.
 
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There aren't many if any mechanicals that can't handle 25 watts. My point about wicking material was in regards to different materials being able to handle more heat. 25 watts on a mech with a sub ohm coil wrapped on ss mesh doesn't burn, whereas anything over 8-10 on my vamo with an evod tank will burn the same juice. Wire and wick temperature is what matters, with the stipulation that your device and battery can handle the amps (current flow).


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ut1205

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Thanks for the reply and I'll try to get my threads sorted out next time. I was just looking at the Provari power chart and they limit version 1 to 2.5 amps at any voltage and version 2 to 3.5 maximum amps. Says it might vary some.

25 watts at 3.7 volts is 7 3/4 amps. That is my concern especially with no fuse protection.

Provari chart is here:

http://www.provape.com/v/images/ProVariV1vsV2.pdf
 
Provari's won't even fire a sub ohm coil. Mechanicals don't have that protection, you are the protection as baditude said previously. 27 watts on mech is nothing, there's no wires, springs or circuit boards in the device to have fault out, the body of the device is the circuit. The spring in the switch doesn't carry any current, it's just there to make the switch release when you let go of it. Mechanicals and regulated devices are two entirely different experiences


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WattWick

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....
Edit: Got my post mixed up. Hot button is another thread but this just doesn' sound safe to me. I'm afraid it will generate more stories about exploding batteries.

Had me confused there for a moment ;)

It is of utmost importance to use the safest possible batteries and know what they are capable of when using mech mods. I'd say the same goes for any battery-in-hand-and-mouth application. I don't chase clouds or follow the path of least resistance, so I won't speak for those who do. I pull at most 5.25 amps from my batteries... in theory. In reality a fair bit less due to voltage under load being lower than max cell voltage and resistance between the battery and the coil.

Have to add that I didn't mean that mechs gives the best vape there is. That's very much subjective.
 

State O' Flux

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something like this signature, huh?
Yep... now, center it up, bag the underline, italicize the first part and reduce to size 1... and leave the second part bold. Like zisss...

At 0.5Ω of resistance you're pushing 7.4 amps and a whopping 27.38 watts...
If you did that to an eGo, it would destroy a small village.



bomb.gif
 

Scarey

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Yep... now, center it up, bag the underline, italicize the first part and reduce to size 1... and leave the second part bold. Like zisss...

At 0.5Ω of resistance you're pushing 7.4 amps and a whopping 27.38 watts...
If you did that to an eGo, it would destroy a small village.



bomb.gif

That woud be over the length limit for my sig. It allows 3 lines, and my stop smoking banner takes up 2.
 
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