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e-pipeman

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Well, I have two Vamo V2s in SS - one from a UK company, one from FT.

They are both great and in constant (I mean CONSTANT) use.

One of them has taken a dislike to one of my Igo-Ls but will work with everything else. It now works with that Igo-L with an air-flow adapter.

They are both amazing and I would not be without them.

People often say "Why Vamo?" I say "Do you like Excellent?"

Edit: I forgot about the "how long" bit. One 8, the other 7 months.

I drop them all the time on everything from carpet to stone flags. I also drop them off of tables, desks and out of bags. Occasionally they act a little surprised but soon perk up and are back to normal. The press fitting tubes can look out of whack until you push them back into line. Then they're fine.

I broke the threads on a V1 Protank by whacking it against a flat surface by mistake. Took the broken bit out of the Vamo, bought a new base for the Protank and all is back to normal.

Just the other day started on the RG500 on the Vamo. Very nice when you don't want to drip (holds 5 ml).

Thinking about a Vamo? Stop thinking and buy one.

I doubt that they'll last anywhere near as long as a Provari, but then I'm not into everlasting tech because I like to try new stuff when the world turns. :)
 
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Trayce

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The trick is to put this adapter on as soon as you can, before the original threads "go south". My original V2 wouldn't accept a T3, it does now!

Yeah I've protected my V3 threads from the start with an airflow controller. But it's still unbelievable no one makes an eGo-cone-to-510 adapter!

FTR (for newbie readers since you already know this) the V3 has a wider well so it works with the T3 or anything else, no adapter required.
 

Amethyst_Star

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6 weeks and my Vamo V2, newer version as it's a magenta color and lightweight, started reading the ohms funny (9.9). Found out that it meant the ohms were at 0, so it wasn't reading my tanks. Changed the o-ring as recommended, and could finally use it, but only with tank airflow controllers or an adapter. Changed the o-ring again, now I can only use ProTanks, iClear 30's, or similar, without an airflow tank controller. Gave up and put it into retirement. Might get a Vamo V5, if I find out it doesn't have the same issue. That or a *swearword* SID.
 

Zumeraga

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My first VAMO (V2) lasted exactly 3 days before the threads went horribly bad. Went back to the store and argued "energetically" with the owner. Fortunately there was a crowd of customers observing our interaction so he sold me a new one for 80% off and let me keep the old one as it could still work with T3S. The second one lasted about 3 months and then all I got were "02" errors and it shut off. Got a V5 last week and it is working great.....so far. I still like the VAMO a lot, even with my experiences with them and will always have one.
 

Dothan

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my 2 month old v3's threads are almost gone... my UDCT still works, but nothing else that is not ego threaded will work. Thinking about trying to build my own ego to 510 adapter.. the ego-w head looks promising... if not, I'll be ordering a v5, and building a vamo box mod! then replacing the connector will be a breeze!
 

Trayce

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6 weeks and my Vamo V2, newer version as it's a magenta color and lightweight, started reading the ohms funny (9.9). Found out that it meant the ohms were at 0, so it wasn't reading my tanks. Changed the o-ring as recommended, and could finally use it, but only with tank airflow controllers or an adapter. Changed the o-ring again, now I can only use ProTanks, iClear 30's, or similar, without an airflow tank controller. Gave up and put it into retirement. Might get a Vamo V5, if I find out it doesn't have the same issue. That or a *swearword* SID.

Don't know why changing the o-ring would effect which tanks you can use... that sounds more like a thread problem... unless the o-ring used was too fat and that didn't leave enough 510 threads showing to screw tanks on properly. This will also happen if you don't remove the existing grommet under the pin, before installing the new one.

my 2 month old v3's threads are almost gone... my UDCT still works, but nothing else that is not ego threaded will work. Thinking about trying to build my own ego to 510 adapter.. the ego-w head looks promising... if not, I'll be ordering a v5, and building a vamo box mod! then replacing the connector will be a breeze!

To both of you, you might consider a new top. Though it does involve soldering. They sell V2 tops which will work on V3s and V5s as well. But again, you have to unsolder the neg and pos wire from the existing top, and re-solder on to the new top. Vicflo put a new V2 top on his Vamo 5 when he ruined his threads.... and the V5 is the same as the V3 without the swirls, basically.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/484751-vamo-v5-v2-head-replacement.html
 

K_Tech

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To both of you, you might consider a new top. Though it does involve soldering. They sell V2 tops which will work on V3s and V5s as well. But again, you have to unsolder the neg and pos wire from the existing top, and re-solder on to the new top. Vicflo put a new V2 top on his Vamo 5 when he ruined his threads.... and the V5 is the same as the V3 without the swirls, basically.

Yep, a little soldering involved, but worth it. Still less than $40 invested:
V3_V2_Cap.jpg
 

K_Tech

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I have a V2, what o'ring needs to be changed and how do you change it.

If it's working, you don't need to change it. But the o-ring in question is the one at the base of the 510 threads on the Vamo's head.

Exactly. In a nutshell, the stock insulator on the Vamo (and some other devices) can, over time, get pushed down into the body causing either a short (when the center post contacts the body) or an open (if the center post gets pushed down just a hair too far to contact the center post of your atomizer).

There are a lot of fix videos and writeups, here's one of the videos, in case you run into the issue:

How to fix a Vamo or Bamboo with Low Ohms - YouTube
 

ThunderPumpkin

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My first SS Vamo V2 lasted for 7.5 months. In that time I dropped it at least 20 times, and knocked it over (from standing position) probably 50 times. The last time I dropped it, the "decrease wattage" button took the full brunt of the blow and whatever spring-like device there was behind the button is no longer there.

It still works, but it's too easy to decrease the wattage (or even worse, cycle down to 3w and then have it jump up to 15w!). So I've moved on to the V2 I've had in reserve.

In other words, this thing is a trooper!!
 
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