How to Build yourself a small 5v triple A box with microswitch using pcb

[Mark Linehan]

I know this is an older post, but I just had to say that I think this is one of the absolute BEST tutorials for a mod that I have seen so far anywhere on the web. I also think it should be STICKY for sure. I also think it deserves a bump because for over 2 months now I have been running around in these forums and doing my share of searching and this is the first time I either found this one, or more likely, the first time I noticed this one. I believe this tutorial is worthy of stickiness because it may not be the most entry level mod out there, but it is presented in such a complete and thorough way that I believe most entry level modders who can solder should be able to complete this one. I am really impressed with the tutorial as well as with the mod design itself. I just made a 3AA 5v using 14500 batteries, and I put the batteries together on one side and put everything else in the third slot. I also used a 3 pin regulator which required using a larger switch which was too big for this project. All in all, your design was a MUCH MUCH better idea IMHO. I am going to remake my mod because something HAPPENED and it is no longer functioning.

I am going to steal your design and build my 3AA 14500 5v mod with this center slot concept for sure. Thank you for the design concept. It will be much better, plus now I understand how to wire a switch using the control pin on a 4 pin regulator, so I will be able to use a much smaller switch now! So from all of new modders and forum members, thank you for your efforts. Great job, and I hope when I go search out all your posts I find more tutorials! I think I will definately be including a link to this one in my Basic Electronics For Noobs thread.

 

[WillyB]

I know this is an older post, but I just had to say that I think this is one of the absolute BEST tutorials for a mod that I have seen so far anywhere on the web. I also think it should be STICKY for sure. I also think it deserves a bump because for over 2 months now I have been running around in these forums and doing my share of searching and this is the first time I either found this one, or more likely, the first time I noticed this one. I believe this tutorial is worthy of stickiness

I disagree, this is far from the best. Using the worthless 10440's is strike number one. That many who have followed this 'best' guide can't even use the immensely popular Joye atty is strike two (this is due more to poor design than the regulator itself). And irregardless of the control pin, a 30¢ switch is strike three. Game over.

When this 'great' design requires a rather lengthy warning of potential problems at COV, it should set you thinking, not wanting to copy or 'sticky' it.

 

[retird]

Starting to build the 5v mod as pictured in this thread.....First one for me......in looking at the schematic in post #1 and comparing it to the mod in Picture 28, it appears that the master switch is shown on the + side of the battery in the schematic, and on the - side of the battery in Picture 28....not a big deal but to a newby like me, I was confused.....will build as shown in picture 28.....(if my observation is in error, please correct me)....

 

[Java_Az]

Technically speaking it could be on either the positive or negative wire and the end result will be the same, you will have a functioning master power switch. But yeah the schematic has it on the positive side and it is on the negative side in the pictures. I would try to go off the pictures and copy what you see. There is more then likely a good reason he put it on the negative side.

 

[retird]

Technically speaking it could be on either the positive or negative wire and the end result will be the same, you will have a functioning master power switch. But yeah the schematic has it on the positive side and it is on the negative side in the pictures. I would try to go off the pictures and copy what you see. There is more then likely a good reason he put it on the negative side.

Master switch's close proximity to - battery terminal makes easy connection....as pictured.....probably why negative wire is switched.....here we go, ready to build....good day....

 

[Ez Duzit]

Starting to build the 5v mod as pictured in this thread.....First one for me......in looking at the schematic in post #1 and comparing it to the mod in Picture 28, it appears that the master switch is shown on the + side of the battery in the schematic, and on the - side of the battery in Picture 28....not a big deal but to a newby like me, I was confused.....will build as shown in picture 28.....(if my observation is in error, please correct me)....

Technically speaking it could be on either the positive or negative wire and the end result will be the same, you will have a functioning master power switch. But yeah the schematic has it on the positive side and it is on the negative side in the pictures. I would try to go off the pictures and copy what you see. There is more then likely a good reason he put it on the negative side.

Master switch's close proximity to - battery terminal makes easy connection....as pictured.....probably why negative wire is switched.....here we go, ready to build....good day....

I don't post much anymore but this made me laugh. I never actually paid attention to the schematic showing the switch on the (+) side instead of the (-). But the reason for it is pretty simple. I know a lot of the battery boxes I've used for ecigs come wired with the switch on the (-) side. Except I didn't make the schematic, it's from hoogie over at mad vapes. If you go to madvapes and check the description for the regulator I used, then look at the pictures in the description you'll see the circuit. He's added a capacitor to it since then but that's where I got it.

Anyway I just built the box accordingly and never even gave it a second thought. Sorry about any confusion guys. Just follow the pictures and dialogue and you should be fine.

As for why I recommend you switch out the original wire coming off the switch. If you clean the inside of the box every week or so (like I do), then the regulator gets moved around in the the exact same way each time. After a while the original wire would often get so close to breaking off (at the solder junction), that it needed immediate fixing. A slightly heavier gauge wire prevents it. But it's only a suggestion and I admit, I don't always do it myself either.

Here's another suggestion I'll offer to anyone building this or using it as a general guide. Make the switch and atty connector wires 1/2" to 3/4" longer then they need to be. Then when it's time to clean the inside of the box, it's pretty simple to spread the 4 wires apart just enough so the regulator can actually be lifted up through them. This makes it MUCH easier when juice gets under the regulator and it needs cleaned out. I do this standard now on all boxes I build because at some point, juice WILL get in there.

Good luck with the build retird. You're gonna love it when it's done. These little boxes last for 5-6 hours of heavy vaping, or about 7 hours of medium vaping (assuming freshly charged new batteries). I prefer it over my bigger box (using 14500's), just because of the small size and it's easy enough to carry a couple of extra 10440's in your pocket. Then you're good for the day. After a year the batteries will only last about 4 hours. By then it's time for new ones anyway.


Ez

 

[Godzilla]

Nice work, and great tutorial.

 

[retird]

EZ - finished my build using 14500 batts - been vaping it for about 5 hours now and not a single flaw in operation. Built it in a 4cell batt box so I can add juice bottle for top feeder. Put a very low brightness LED next to the atty connector so I can see that it is firing. Just one more small hole to drill for the juice feeder tube connector and make the cutout so I can squeeze the juice bottle(when and if I decide to make it a juice feeder mod).

Note: Two cells of the box hold the batteries, one cell for the electronics. and one cell for the atty connector and juice box. Thus any stray juice that may get inside the box will be isolated from the batts and the electronics.

Excellent vape with Joye 510 SR atty's. Ordered some HV Joye 510's (4.2 ohm) just to see if it can get any better with them....

 

[sprink0281]

I disagree, this is far from the best. Using the worthless 10440's is strike number one. That many who have followed this 'best' guide can't even use the immensely popular Joye atty is strike two (this is due more to poor design than the regulator itself). And irregardless of the control pin, a 30¢ switch is strike three. Game over.

When this 'great' design requires a rather lengthy warning of potential problems at COV, it should set you thinking, not wanting to copy or 'sticky' it.

Can you please link to your tutorial for us?

 

[Ez Duzit]

EZ - finished my build using 14500 batts - been vaping it for about 5 hours now and not a single flaw in operation. Built it in a 4cell batt box so I can add juice bottle for top feeder. Put a very low brightness LED next to the atty connector so I can see that it is firing. Just one more small hole to drill for the juice feeder tube connector and make the cutout so I can squeeze the juice bottle(when and if I decide to make it a juice feeder mod).

Note: Two cells of the box hold the batteries, one cell for the electronics. and one cell for the atty connector and juice box. Thus any stray juice that may get inside the box will be isolated from the batts and the electronics.

Excellent vape with Joye 510 SR atty's. Ordered some HV Joye 510's (4.2 ohm) just to see if it can get any better with them....

Hmm didn't get any email notifications for the past few weeks and all of a sudden I get a bunch today. Anyway, that sounds well thought out retird. Nuthin better then vaping on something you built yourself. Hope this tutorial helped a little.


@ sprink0281 - Your post above this one made me lmao.


Ez

 

[styl3r]

Trying to get these regulator in the UK and struggling is ther a product number for it.
cheers
Kevin

 

[Ez Duzit]

Trying to get these regulator in the UK and struggling is ther a product number for it.
cheers
Kevin

The regulator is made by Fairchild Semiconductor. Product # KA378R05. Although I'm pretty sure Madvapes ships to the UK.

 

[skipdashu]

Hello EZ Duzit,

OK, I see now that I need 470 ohm resistor so I can use a micro switch

I also see that 470 ohm resistors come in different flavors:
1/8-watt, 470 ohm
1/4-watt, 470 ohm
1K ohm, 1/4-watt, 470 ohm
1/2-watt, 470 ohm

can someone point out which one I would need, want to make sure I buy the right one.

Thanks,

1/8th watt is more than 'nuff. s/b under 75ma on the control pin.