How to Fix Stuff

Brewdawg1181

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I have a question about using Tarus. Our house has a roofed deck/porch around about 3/4 of it. The deck is is around 15 - 20 feet elevated. Should I use the perimeter of the porch to trench or use the foundation of the house for the trench? The deck supports are set in concrete and a roof covers the whole thing. There is a French drain under the deck, no gutters. The rest of the house has gutters.
A termite company will actually use a hammer drill to make 1/2" holes spaced a foot or so apart in all the patio & driveway areas, to "rod" in the liquid. They insert a long metal tip and pump in the termiticide. A homeowner would use a funnel, but it won't be as effective to force the liquid through the soil. Then you use a concrete patch or plastic plugs made specifically for this.

If you didn't want to go that route, I doubt it would be that much less effective to go around the patio, as long as a continuous barrier is created. Of course, you can't go around the driveway, and without doing it, you don't have a complete barrier. And where the driveway meets the garage house is by far the most common site to find termites. Where they pour patios and driveways, they often leave the wood forms underground (termite food). But creating a barrier around 80% of the house is better than none. I sold commercial pest control in the '90's, and had to get certified like a technician would. Made a lot of money selling, and actually doing the termite jobs for apartment buildings several times, but doing the inspections was nasty, claustrophobia inducing work (think crawl spaces under a 50 year old apartment building), and doing the termite jobs no fun.

I didn't know they'd changed the labeling on Fipronil. Might have to treat my own home now.
 

Bronze

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A termite company will actually use a hammer drill to make 1/2" holes spaced a foot or so apart in all the patio & driveway areas, to "rod" in the liquid. They insert a long metal tip and pump in the termiticide. A homeowner would use a funnel, but it won't be as effective to force the liquid through the soil. Then you use a concrete patch or plastic plugs made specifically for this.

If you didn't want to go that route, I doubt it would be that much less effective to go around the patio, as long as a continuous barrier is created. Of course, you can't go around the driveway, and without doing it, you don't have a complete barrier. And where the driveway meets the garage house is by far the most common site to find termites. Where they pour patios and driveways, they often leave the wood forms underground (termite food). But creating a barrier around 80% of the house is better than none. I sold commercial pest control in the '90's, and had to get certified like a technician would. Made a lot of money selling, and actually doing the termite jobs for apartment buildings several times, but doing the inspections was nasty, claustrophobia inducing work (think crawl spaces under a 50 year old apartment building), and doing the termite jobs no fun.

I didn't know they'd changed the labeling on Fipronil. Might have to treat my own home now.
You could also trench around driveways n patios n sidewalks but geez, that does add a lot of work.
 

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Bronze

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Brewdawg1181

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Because having your house eaten to the foundation is so much easier to live with. :)
Well, for termite treatment, the chemical is supposed to be subterranean. This is why it's trenched then covered, and injected. So unless your chickens are pecking 6 inches deep, or your dogs digging at the foundation, there should be no exposure. Which, by the way, if anyone is treating it themselves, it's best to trench fairly carefully, and backfill without scratching around and disturbing the barrier.

Interesting that by banning organophosphates decades ago, retreating must be done more often, creating more chance for exposure. And organophosphates weren't any more toxic - they just didn't break down over time like other insect/termiticides. This made it perfect for termite pretreatements. But using it for general monthly pest control, it would build up to very high levels. Without a doubt, they should have allowed use for pre-construction termite treatment, rather than a total ban. You just can't treat near as well, and create a barrier anything near as good after a structure is built.
 

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Well, for termite treatment, the chemical is supposed to be subterranean. This is why it's trenched then covered, and injected. So unless your chickens are pecking 6 inches deep, or your dogs digging at the foundation, there should be no exposure. Which, by the way, if anyone is treating it themselves, it's best to trench fairly carefully, and backfill without scratching around and disturbing the barrier.

Interesting that by banning organophosphates decades ago, retreating must be done more often, creating more chance for exposure. And organophosphates weren't any more toxic - they just didn't break down over time like other insect/termiticides. This made it perfect for termite pretreatements. But using it for general monthly pest control, it would build up to very high levels. Without a doubt, they should have allowed use for pre-construction termite treatment, rather than a total ban. You just can't treat near as well, and create a barrier anything near as good after a structure is built.
Exactly. The stuff is buried a half foot below the ground. Bees don't go there. Now yes, if you spray above ground then bees are more exposed. Especially if it is near flowering stuff where they hang out. Open spaces or non-flowering areas not so much.
 

Bronze

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if anyone is treating it themselves, it's best to trench fairly carefully, and backfill without scratching around and disturbing the barrier.
guttering and ensuring water isn't going against the foundation is critical too....beyond just disturbing the termiticide.
 
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Brewdawg1181

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Why couldn't you use some gorilla glue on the screws? That stuff holds forever. Make sure it is damp though.
Not a bad idea for some applications. But only if it's something you know you'll never need to remove. If he ever wanted to remove the gutter, and all the screws were glued in, he might have to destroy the fascia board to remove it. Depending on the builder, that may be the only board that the nail/screw attaches to (but may go in to the rafter). This is why longer screws may not be the answer - if the original nail goes thru the fascia board (usually only 3/4" thick), having a longer one would only put more of the screw into the void behind it.

BTW, Bronze - good call on the toothpicks. That's one of the first/best/most used hacks I've ever learned, when door hinge screws were stripped out on my first house. I usually put a dab of carpenter glue in with it. And I've had a box of toothpicks in my toolbox and workbench for over 30 years. Cabinets, furniture, etc.- amazing how many times I've used that.

Brings to mind another hack using toothpicks.
Sagging door: unscrew the bottom hinge from the jamb side (leave attached to the door), use carpenter glue to stick several toothpicks to the chiseled out area - top, bottom, middle, or side to side. Put it back (no need to let the glue dry- it's just to hold them in place), and it changes the angle of the door, so the top no longer scrapes the frame. Sometimes you need to do this not because the door itself scrapes, but because the throw (bolt) of the door knob assembly has sagged too low to enter into the hole in the strike plate. Doing this is much easier and quicker than repositioning the plate.
 
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Brewdawg1181

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Well that will just be fantastic.

How do you fix menopause since they no longer hand out hormones? LOL my mom was part of the longitudinal study.

When they made her stop, I think she was kind of like "I'd like to take my chances with a heart attack please."

Anna
You could make your own. Do you know how to make a hormone?
Don't pay her. [add rimshot sound here]
Sorry. Really, sorry - that joke is among the oldest in my repertoire. :blush:
 

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I am making the attempt to avoid every tracking device, cookie, "smart" thing that I can, my personal preference My thought is that Duke energy or my local "not-for-profit" co-op need not know my comings, my goings and my movements or lack thereof throughout the house. That being said, those are some very tempting savings.
Question: do you have multiple heat /air units and thermostats to service various areas of your house? Our unit is one thermostat and one blower, either heat or air, it is either on or off with me setting different areas by adjusting the vents more or less closed.

Three units with separate blowers, main floor, basement and detached garage/office. It goes to an ECO setting when it detects no one is in that part of the house.
 

Brewdawg1181

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Three units with separate blowers, main floor, basement and detached garage/office. It goes to an ECO setting when it detects no one is in that part of the house.
I'll probably die in my current house, even though I'm almost an empty nester and it's far more house than I need. But if I ever build another one or completely replace an HVAC system, I'll definitely have a good damper system. With those, rather than shut off the air at the register in the room, it closes it off at the plenum (the big box at the condensing unit that all of the supply vents connect to), a BIG difference. Then, even if you have a single unit, you can better control where the air goes. And with a good system, you can program it to shut off those parts of the house you aren't using - completely, and on a programmed basis. You can have this type of system installed on an existing HVAC unit, but it makes more economic sense when installing a new one.
 

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