How to Fix Stuff

The Cold Water stub, which I did 1st was a Breeze. The Sleeve just Pulled Right Out. And it took Longer to figure out how to get the Sleeve Off the Inner Guide piece (you Turn the Inner Guide around 180 and the Pull it Off using the Old Compression Nut) than it did to Remove it from the Stub.

The Hot Water side was a Different Story. It was a Long Vertical stub strategically placed behind the Garbage Disposal for Maximum Wrench Interference. In the end, I cheated by Cutting the End of the Stub off using an Imp.

 

I think using MacGyver Tactics is almost a Prerequisite to doing Plumbing. Especially on Old Houses.

I've got a Bunch of Modified Tools in my Plumbing fast attack bag. Things like Wrenches that have been Cut in Half or Vise Grips that have the Jaw Teeth ground off. And Tommy (Silicone Stretch) Tape. Lots of Tommy Tape.

 

Wow, that's nice. I didn't know such existed.

 

"Imp" is what?

 

It you have 1/2" Copper Pipes, that Compression Sleeve Puller is a Must Have.

An "Imp" is a Compact Tubing/Pipe Cutter. It is designed to be used in Tight Places where you Can't Rotate a Full Sized cutter.





https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-32975-Quarters-Tubing-Cutter/dp/B000LDGNCU

Another Very Handy Item to have in Your Plumbing Bag o' Tricks.

 

BTW - If I worked on 1/2" Copper Pipe more than once in a great while, I would probably Buy a Better Sleeve puller than that Husky. Something more like this...



I like that it has Wrench Flats so you can Hold/Twist it with a Wrench or a Socket. And it is probably made out of Better Materials.

But when the Guts of your Sink are laying on the Floor and you are Washing your Hands form water in a 1 Gallon Milk Jug that you Thankfully remembered to Fill Up before you turned of the Water, a trip to Home Depot and that Husky Puller did get the Job Done.

 

2 years ago I bought one of the el cheapo Glacier Bay (Home Depot brand) kitchen faucets for $100 (Model: "Market"). Says it has a lifetime warranty like the more expensive brands.

It also has the fast mount system which is really nice to install. Worst part was removing the old faucet.

About 15 months later the stem valve started getting a little hard to pull-push so I contacted HD and they sent me a new valve which is very easy to replace. So far so good. Bought another one on special for $80 for the upstairs kitchen about 6 months ago.

I absolutely hate all plumbing work.

 

Yeah, I wasn't happy about that so I'm hoping it was just a bad one. I can tell you that it looked no worse made than the Moen valves I have replaced at my aunt's house. That one seems to go every 2-3 years.

 

What's kinda stupid (on their part) is the replacement valve comes in a kit with a new brass retainer nut. I doubt that nut would ever get damaged, it's beefy. You'd damage the stem housing before you'd ever damage that nut.

 

I don’t know how well the seams where the screen sections meet on your particular system, I have a neighbor that has a similar system though, every spring at least one baby bird will find its way into the gutter somewhere at one of the connections. If you hear a bunch chirping and a sound like a mouse running in a gutter this spring, it’s a baby bird, try not to let them make to the downspout if you can, it was difficult getting that one out! The others we’ve always been able to corner near a seam and let them escape. Also, squirrels can, and sometimes do get in, they can let themselves out through the downspout, at least so far they always have.
Thank you for your review also!!

 

Once I heard a noise but couldn't figure out what it was. When I realized it was coming from the downspout I tapped it a little and about 2 seconds later a chipmunk shot out of the bottom like a bat outta hell. I've never seen a chipmunk (or actually anything) run so fast in my life!

 

I am looking to my experts once again. I have a propane un-vented Empire Comfort VFSR-30-3 gas fireplace. My problem began with a pilot light that would not remain lighted. You Tube being my friend, I got that fixed with a new thermocouple. The pilot now stays on.

Now another problem arose. My next problem is what I think may be a bad switch. I have a rocker on-off switch which controls when the fire is on. The pilot light is on and I move the gas valve from pilot to on. The fire is always on, I can't turn it off unless I use the burner gas valve to shut it down and, of course, the pilot goes out as it is supposed to do.

Last year, all was well, I get up flip the rocker on-off to on and the burner lighted just fine. I am supposing that the rocker is bad. When checking the company web site I can find nothing that addresses an "always on" condition. No You Tubes on this either. You ask why I don't call someone who knows what they are doing? Where we live is so far off the beaten path and just finding someone who will consent to out here carries with it a premium price. Of course the part needed is not on the truck requiring another round trip, personal experience.

Any thoughts on the problem or diagnosing the switch?

 

If you can get to the contacts of the switch, use a multimeter and do a continuity check when you flip the switch. If it checks good then is there an ignitor or something else that could be causing the issue?

 

Is the Switch something that you can get a Multimeter on to test if it is working or Not?

You can also get Part Numbers for the Part(s) that you think are Bad from the User Manual parts list.

Exm: Page 21 of Empire Comfort Systems Electric Heater VFSR-30-3 User Guide | ManualsOnline.com

Once you have a Part Number(s), you can check Part Houses for Replacement Parts.

Exm: Empire Comfort Systems Parts | Dey Appliance Parts

Sometimes getting the Parts Yourself and having a Pro do the Install Isn't a Bad Call.