Mine also chirps. This may be a blessing in disguise - it could be a faulty smoke alarm if it can't sing!
Good to Hear you got to the bottom of things.
Things like that can Make you question your Sanity. LOL.
As others have posted, chirping yes but snapping like a mouse trap no.
Regarding the Kidde battery, you should check the specs in your user manual to make sure they aren't misleading about the usability of standard 9v batts. I've never heard of "special" 9v.
You're probably right about the battery, newyork. Kidde's probably just trying to improve their balance sheet. Still, they always sell batteries in a package of more than I would ever want. I mean, what would I ever do with the extra one or three other 9V batteries. I have nothing else that uses that size. Someday. . . maybe.
Okay, maybe it chirped. Mouse trap was what first came to mind.
Okay, maybe it chirped. Mouse trap was what first came to mind.
Question about wooden flooring trim. An 8 - 10 foot angled piece covering the edge of a step (into a sunken room) has come loose. Some of the flooring nails that held it are missing, some were bent when they were nailed in, so their grip is not good.
The homeowner doesn’t want to nail it down, preferring to glue it. The house sits on a concrete slab, and I’m thinking there isn’t enough sub-flooring depth to get a good nail or screw grip.
My question is whether anyone has had success with such a piece being glued rather than nailed down?
Next question is what kind of glue would do the job?
Edit to add: Looks like liquid nails would do the job. I also suspect there’s an uneven surface and maybe dips on the subfloor and concrete that causes flex when the transition piece is stepped on. No solution will last until that is fixed. And that’s above my pay grade.
The homeowner doesn’t want to nail it down, preferring to glue it. The house sits on a concrete slab, and I’m thinking there isn’t enough sub-flooring depth to get a good nail or screw grip.
My question is whether anyone has had success with such a piece being glued rather than nailed down?
Next question is what kind of glue would do the job?
Edit to add: Looks like liquid nails would do the job. I also suspect there’s an uneven surface and maybe dips on the subfloor and concrete that causes flex when the transition piece is stepped on. No solution will last until that is fixed. And that’s above my pay grade.
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Liquid Nails can work. And it probably wouldn't be a Bad Call.
But when I want to Really Hold something down, I lean towards 2-Part Epoxy Resin.
Two part epoxy is wonderful stuff, it will most likely be tougher than the pieces being glued. I once sealed the cracked oil pan of 1975 Vega (not my Vega, thank the Deity). The seal was better than the entire car and it went Vega heaven without an oil leak.
I forgot to Mention that if you are going to place a few Nails to round things out when you Glue things, that I would use "Ring Shank" Nails.
And when Nailing, if you set the Nails at an Alternating Angle like in the How-To below, it Really Improves Holding Power. And helps to Minimize nails wanting to work themselves out.
Fixing a Squeaky Wood Floor from Above :: Sutherlands
45 Degree Nail Sets give you the Highest Strength. But you would be Amazed how just a 10 Degree or so Alternating Angle helps. And using 10 Degrees or so makes filling Nail Head Holes Much Smaller and Easier to fill.
Yeah... I have a Few "Mods" and Fixes that 2-Part Epoxy saved the day.
Funny what you can get Done with a Wax Paper/Cardboard form and some Epoxy. Or just a Glob on something that Won't Stay Put.
I'd probably use screws.I forgot to Mention that if you are going to place a few Nails to round things out when you Glue things, that I would use "Ring Shank" Nails.
And when Nailing, if you set the Nails at an Alternating Angle like in the How-To below, it Really Improves Holding Power. And helps to Minimize nails wanting to work themselves out.
Fixing a Squeaky Wood Floor from Above :: Sutherlands
45 Degree Nail Sets give you the Highest Strength. But you would be Amazed how just a 10 Degree or so Alternating Angle helps. And using 10 Degrees or so makes filling Nail Head Holes Much Smaller and Easier to fill.
BTW - My Daily Driver, a Wismec Surface 80w (the Mod I am Holding in my hand Right Now) has a Small Glob of Epoxy on the inside of it to Keep the pressed in 510 Connector from turning.
I did a Flooring Repair project years ago where I started off thinking I would use Screws. They can hold Better than Ring Nails. But they can be a Pain to Drive until you get to a Bigger Diameters like Dry Screw Diams.
I ended up just using a few Strategically Placed Screws and the rest was done with Ring Nails and Water Resistant Wood Glue.
I forgot to Mention that if you are going to place a few Nails to round things out when you Glue things, that I would use "Ring Shank" Nails.
And when Nailing, if you set the Nails at an Alternating Angle like in the How-To below, it Really Improves Holding Power. And helps to Minimize nails wanting to work themselves out.
Fixing a Squeaky Wood Floor from Above :: Sutherlands
45 Degree Nail Sets give you the Highest Strength. But you would be Amazed how just a 10 Degree or so Alternating Angle helps. And using 10 Degrees or so makes filling Nail Head Holes Much Smaller and Easier to fill.
This is great information. Thank you.
My only concern with the epoxy is whether there’d be any issue with future removal to replace the flooring.
Yeah... With All Upsides there has to be a Downside.
And Future Removal would be a Downside to using 2-Part Epoxy. Because it is Permanent Bond.
This is where Home Projects can get Hard. When for some reason a Home Owner decides that a Project has to Start a Certain Way. Like Gluing. Then Everything has to be tailored towards How the Project Starts.
If you want to Glue Something, then to make it Stick you kinda give up that Future Removal thing. Or you Walk a Very Fine Line between something that Works and something that Doesn't.
Not knowing all that Much about the Condition of what the Subfloor/Substructure looks like, I would still want to Start with Ring Nails or Screws. With maybe a Few Dabs of this ...
Titebond III 16 oz. Ultimate Wood Glue-1414 - The Home Depot
I really think that Ring Nails/Screws and few dabs of Wood Glue are going to work for Most Things. And you would have the Ability to do a Future Removal if you Don't go Crazy with the Glue.
Then, if that Doesn't stand the test of time, go with something Stronger.
This is why I like to use screws where possible. Where something is screwed they can generally be unscrewed. However, as Zoid points out, screws aren't always the answer either and alternatives are necessary. Perhaps start by using screws and if that fails then go to glue n nails. Use pilot holes for the screws. Makes life easier.
Without question tremoval would be an issue. If it is applied to a clean surface it stays there.
I Remember when I 1st saw that Titebond Water Proof/Resistant Glue at Home Depot. This Dude standing next to me said it was Great Wood Glue. And "Much Better than All the Others".
I asked Him what makes it Better?
He shrugged and said... "Dunno? Maybe that use better horses when they make it?"
LOL
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