I don't think it's the motor either. I think it's what it is 85% of the time...the coupler between the motor and the transmission. But that is the most buried thing so it gets checked last.
I don't think it's the motor either. I think it's what it is 85% of the time...the coupler between the motor and the transmission. But that is the most buried thing so it gets checked last.
When ALL Else Fails.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Maytag-...tton-and-Deep-Fill-Option-MVW6230HC/312388264
Our old washer used to break a wire on occasion from flexing when it went into wig-wag mode. Of course it would be full of water and a major pia. I'm glad it's gone.I don't think it's the motor either. I think it's what it is 85% of the time...the coupler between the motor and the transmission. But that is the most buried thing so it gets checked last.
Took us near 30 days to get a convection/microwave these big box stores not stocking anything much over $50
And that's where it looks like it's heading.
Pulled the motor. Coupler is perfectly fine. Pulled the switch, sanded the contacts with some 600 grit, cleaned it. Still messed up but now it is major grinding clunking ready-to-blow-up sound. I'm pretty sure the tranny is shot. Probably the bearings or sumpin'. Don't want a rebuild kit (mixed results on rebuilds). Trannys are not cheap. Anywhere from $175 for a Chinesium Special up to $250 for a decent one. Not sure it's worth it for a 15 year old Whirlpool. I already have it Frankensteined, modified, and MacGyvered as it is. Wires jumped, cable ties holding stuff together, silicone smeared everywhere to stop leaks, etc. Probably takes an hour to swap out a tranny. That's not the issue. If I'm gonna sink $250 into a jalopy I may as well get a new one and be done with it.
That would be My Thinking.
If you can Forgo all the Bells and Whistles that some of the Newer Appliances have (Why does a Washer Need WiFi? Or be able to access the Internet?) a New Washer isn't too expensive.
So totally agree. A basic direct drive top load, agitator is all I want. They last longer than these new fangled computer machines. And when they break they're easy to fix. Looking at scratch n dent or newer used ones. I don't mind a used one when I can fix it myself. Can find a decent one for under $200. The washer I have was used. The gal down the street basically gave it to me. She had it 2 or 3 years and beat the living hell out of it (had to take the thing 3/4 apart to fix stuff she broke). Stuffed it to the rim and ran it past its capacity. Ran it every day of the week. She has a husband and four frigging girls. Girls are laundry factories, not to mention slobs! Wear something a couple hours and put something else on. That 2 or 3 years she had it was more like 10 years the way she used it. Surprised it lasted 15 years honestly.
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And that's where it looks like it's heading.
Pulled the motor. Coupler is perfectly fine. Pulled the switch, sanded the contacts with some 600 grit, cleaned it. Still messed up but now it is major grinding clunking ready-to-blow-up sound. I'm pretty sure the tranny is shot. Probably the bearings or sumpin'. Don't want a rebuild kit (mixed results on rebuilds). Trannys are not cheap. Anywhere from $175 for a Chinesium Special up to $250 for a decent one. Not sure it's worth it for a 15 year old Whirlpool. I already have it Frankensteined, modified, and MacGyvered as it is. Wires jumped, cable ties holding stuff together, silicone smeared everywhere to stop leaks, etc. Probably takes an hour to swap out a tranny. That's not the issue. If I'm gonna sink $250 into a jalopy I may as well get a new one and be done with it.
Sounds like someone should play "Taps". All the appliances come from warehouses in Ohio being where you at should get one quick.
I am in Ohio. Still took over a week to get a new oven outta one of those Ohio warehouses to me in October.
I ripped the motor/gearcase out of the wash machine. That was an adventure because of corrosion. Anyway, took the motor off the gearbox. Hooked my cordless drill to the coupler. Counterclockwise the tranny shaft agitates perfectly normal. Clockwise it spins like it's supposed to though there is a pop before it will spin (clutch brake release perhaps). Not sure if that's normal. Tried running the motor/tranny out of the machine. Wont go. Just hums. I'm beginning to think the motor is shot.
Don't know if we have any washer motor experts here but I'll try.
I have the motor out of the machine. Dial pushed to OFF. The shaft spins perfectly fine by hand. However, if I pull the dial to ON in spin cycle the shaft will not rotate at all (by hand or from the power). In other words, it seizes when I put it on spin but it rotates freely when it is off.
Now, I'm no motor man but it would seem to me that motor should run out of the machine with the power hooked up.
I have the motor out of the machine. Dial pushed to OFF. The shaft spins perfectly fine by hand. However, if I pull the dial to ON in spin cycle the shaft will not rotate at all (by hand or from the power). In other words, it seizes when I put it on spin but it rotates freely when it is off.
Now, I'm no motor man but it would seem to me that motor should run out of the machine with the power hooked up.
Maybe it is a Not a Motor issue? Maybe it is a Control Board issue?
It could be the sun isn't in the right position. I'm working off probability at this point. The motor is getting power. Tells me it's not a control board (but wouldn't be the first time I'm wrong). I mean, it did run sorta before reducing to only a hum. I could go through some jumper wire exercises if I had to confirm.
I went to a used appliance joint today. Wasn't especially impressed with the value. $250 for a 21 year old washer?? Yes, it was immaculate but still. I can get a used motor for $40. I'd do it if I knew that would solve the problem.
I know very little about washer motors but from what you are saying it almost sounds like they are using an electrical brake on the motor and something is keeping it turned on.
The Problem is that a Washing Machine motor does more than just spin.
Not sure how Advanced your machine is? But most have some type of Sensor for Overload and Unbalanced Loads. And the Control Board tells the Motor to spin at Different Speeds (or Different Directions) at certain times during the Wash Cycle.
It's just Hard sometimes to Know what is going on when things like Motors are melding with PLC Boards.
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I hadn't really thought much about the different speeds and such but that makes sense. So it's basically a variable speed drive built into the machine. To me then it would make sense then that they are using some type of electrical brake to stop the motor.
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