We ended up getting one from Amazon and it's a portable unit. Awesome just to put just the vent in the window. Cheap too.
Just got done cleaning it the best I can. Still a lot of grime but now way to get to it without further disassembly. Wish I had taken a before pic, but what you see here is at least 10 times cleaner. Everything you see that's off-white....wasn't 
. I ended up using up the rest of a 3/4 can of foaming automotive carpet cleaner instead of water with dish soap. It worked well to clean the plastic parts.
Just took the plastic bags off the electrical box and was surprised to find the inside was actually dry! I don't believe the unit has an electronic board as there isn't one inside there. It only has 2 analog knobs for the controls and no LED.
It's a sunny, dry and breezy day with no rain in forecast, so it should dry well. Will move it around some periodically to drain water better. Might even plug it in tonight. Not sure yet.
Now I gotta find those coil combs I have to straighten out a few minor smashed coils that've been there for, like, ever.
I hope it works.
I think I'm gonna take my leaf blower and see if I can blow some water out.
Not necessarily. Could also the coils are just too dirty or there are things around the unit impairing good enough airflow (like drapes and such) or the unit is too large for the space it's intended to cool, or the room temp is already too cool. The latter 3 not being the case in my case. So it;s gotta be either the freon or just to damn dirty. If it is low on freon, that's something I cannot diagnose, so cleaning it this is my only option to come to that conclusion.
The front and back coils were dirty AS HE||! Not on the outside where you can see and somewhat easily clean, rather the inside where it's impossible to clean them without it being a major project lol.
. I ended up using up the rest of a 3/4 can of foaming automotive carpet cleaner instead of water with dish soap. It worked well to clean the plastic parts.
Just took the plastic bags off the electrical box and was surprised to find the inside was actually dry! I don't believe the unit has an electronic board as there isn't one inside there. It only has 2 analog knobs for the controls and no LED.
It's a sunny, dry and breezy day with no rain in forecast, so it should dry well. Will move it around some periodically to drain water better. Might even plug it in tonight. Not sure yet.
Now I gotta find those coil combs I have to straighten out a few minor smashed coils that've been there for, like, ever.
I hope it works.
I think I'm gonna take my leaf blower and see if I can blow some water out.
Not necessarily. Could also the coils are just too dirty or there are things around the unit impairing good enough airflow (like drapes and such) or the unit is too large for the space it's intended to cool, or the room temp is already too cool. The latter 3 not being the case in my case. So it;s gotta be either the freon or just to damn dirty. If it is low on freon, that's something I cannot diagnose, so cleaning it this is my only option to come to that conclusion.
The front and back coils were dirty AS HE||! Not on the outside where you can see and somewhat easily clean, rather the inside where it's impossible to clean them without it being a major project lol.
I have one of those for my living room. I believe it's a 12K BTU unit. I friggin hate it to high heaven and way less efficient than a well insulated window unit. Incidentally, I got a bat in the exhaust hose 3 weeks ago. Not sure how it got in there (that's a helluva story)! The only reason I bought a portable unit is because my LR has no windows big enough to fit even the smallest window AC (which would be too small anyhow). When that breaks I will consider getting a split unit installed. But I don't spend much time in my LR anymore so probably not.
About an hour ago, she was sufficiently dry as far as I could tell so b'fore I put 'er back togedder, I plugged 'er in just ta see if'n she'd turn on. She did. Then I put 'er in AC mode 'n' the compressor turned on. Waited just 'bout 30 secs then I shut 'er off, put 'er back together an' put 'er back in tha winda.
Sometime tomorra, gonna turn 'er on ta see if'n she frosts up 'r not. If'n she does...she's a gonner. Just gonna push 'er right on out tha winda.
Sometime tomorra, gonna turn 'er on ta see if'n she frosts up 'r not. If'n she does...she's a gonner. Just gonna push 'er right on out tha winda.
I didn't notice any. It's been running on fan mode since I posted last. Sounds very smooth and much quieter than it was before.
She's been runnin' a little over an hour now. So far so good. But I'm keeping an eye on it. I'm not sold that it being filthy was the only problem. It's also a bad day for a test since it's a lot cooler and not nearly as humid as it has been.
It's over. It's hot enough in my room now to simulate normal working conditions and within 45 minutes her coil fins were frosted up sufficiently enough to impede airflow.
She's a goner. I did some diggin' around today and was able to deduce that I bought 'er in 2007. First AC I ever owned. That's 15 years of service. $89 at Lowes. Now they want around $160+. I definitely got my money's worth.
She's a goner. I did some diggin' around today and was able to deduce that I bought 'er in 2007. First AC I ever owned. That's 15 years of service. $89 at Lowes. Now they want around $160+. I definitely got my money's worth.
Yep, you have 0 room for complaining. Deep six it and replace it when you can.It's over. It's hot enough in my room now to simulate normal working conditions and within 45 minutes her coil fins were frosted up sufficiently enough to impede airflow.
She's a goner. I did some diggin' around today and was able to deduce that I bought 'er in 2007. First AC I ever owned. That's 15 years of service. $89 at Lowes. Now they want around $160+. I definitely got my money's worth.
If I had to guess those lines are dying from cholesterol. The refrigerant oils build up and flow gets restricted. RIP
Opening back up
Cool.
Just in time to Fix a Door that an Ravenous Band of Termites used as an All-You-Can-Eat Buffett.
Yeah... But I think I have a Plan to Rebuild the Door relatively simply.
For the Lower Rail I'm just going to Chop 3 Inches off the Emtire bottom of the door. Then build it back to Length by using Four .750" thick pieces using Dowels and Screws along with Polyurethane Glue.
For the Damage at the Rail/Styles Panel corners, I'm going to De-Panel the door by routing out an 1.500" oversized Rectangle the same depth of the Panel, .500". Then size a piece of Marine grade 15/32" Plywood to fit into the Rectangle I cut.
I'll do this to All the Panels of the Door so when I'm done it will just look like a Non-Paneled Flat Finish Door.
Not as nice looking. But will be a at least as strong as the Original 70 Year old door. If not Stronger.
It's Money.
And the Door that is there has been Trimmed/Planned over the years to Fit what the opening has become. So I question how well a New, Factory Square Door would fit into the opening?
And I'd rather Not have to rebuild/modify the Opening because it is in a Exterior garage wall that has Stucco on the outside.
Once you start Chipping Stucco things can Spiral Out-of-Control quickly on 70 year old Stucco.
LOL
I like slow cooking ribs in the oven. Tin foil covered glass pans. 225 degrees for 3.5 hours, slather some Sweet Baby Rays on and cook another 20 - 30 minutes. Fall-off-the-bone rapture! So I spent $25 on some ribs the other day. Got them in the oven and proceeded to cook the life out of them. Actual temp was 375. The oven temperature sensor went kaput in my 25 year old Kitchenaid oven. I don't know what hurt more...wasting $25 or curbing my taste buds which were salivating for ribs all day.
Anyhow, if you get funky temperatures (usually higher than your setting) odds are it is your temp sensor. 6 - 8" metallic probe on the inside of your oven with a 12ish" pigtail w/connector. Some screw from inside (like my oven) others screw from the back panel. Easy fix. Inexpensive part off Amazon or EBay. Try to get OEM. I couldn't so I went with another one that got good reviews.
Anyhow, if you get funky temperatures (usually higher than your setting) odds are it is your temp sensor. 6 - 8" metallic probe on the inside of your oven with a 12ish" pigtail w/connector. Some screw from inside (like my oven) others screw from the back panel. Easy fix. Inexpensive part off Amazon or EBay. Try to get OEM. I couldn't so I went with another one that got good reviews.
I'd be more worried about the termites. I have some detailed posts earlier in this thread how i protect my house from them. Termidor SC or Taurus SC (same product). There may be others or substitutes these days but those products work beautifully if applied right.
Ok, I understand. Just seemed like a lot of work to save an old door.
What the House Needs is to be Tented and then Pumped Full of a Noxious Poisonous Gas that is a known Carcinogen in the State of California. Kill every last one of those Damn Buggers.
Unfortunately, the Home Owner is 92. And has Very Adverse thoughts about having a Tent put over her house. And has a Standard Mantra when things like this Door Issue come up.
"When I Die, and you Inherit the house, you can do Anything you want with it. But until then, if you Don't Want to try and Fix the ______, then I guess I'll have to find someone who will."
LOL
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