How to Fix Stuff

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I didn’t know returning was an option. I’d probably do that if I were you. I know the stuff I work on if the board is unopened then you can return it. If the seal is broken on the outer bag then it’s not.
I wasn’t exactly thinking they’d take a board back either so I was surprised when it said you get a six month warranty.
 

CMD-Ky

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I checked the switch both mounted and unmounted from the system. It checked out fine. The internet is filled with advice on getting the thing lit but very little on getting the thing to turn off. I sort on not surprised, the thing is redundantly safe so this problem is unexpected. One small thread had someone who claims to be a gas fireplace repair person said there are times when a light blow with a hammer may make a stuck valve open and close properly. My valve did not respond to the advice.
Monday - bite the bullet, get out the check book (provided they still take a check) and get a pro in.
 
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hittman

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    I checked the switch both mounted and unmounted from the system. It checked out fine. The internet is filled with advice on getting the thing lit but very little on getting the thing to turn off. I sort on not surprised, the thing is redundantly safe so this problem is unexpected. One small thread had someone who claims to be a gas fireplace repair person said there are times when a light blow with a hammer may make a stuck valve open and close properly. My valve did not respond to the advice.
    Monday - bite the bullet, get out the check book (provided they still take a check) and get a pro in.

    Sorry you weren’t able to fix it yourself.
     

    Bronze

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    I checked the switch both mounted and unmounted from the system. It checked out fine. The internet is filled with advice on getting the thing lit but very little on getting the thing to turn off. I sort on not surprised, the thing is redundantly safe so this problem is unexpected. One small thread had someone who claims to be a gas fireplace repair person said there are times when a light blow with a hammer may make a stuck valve open and close properly. My valve did not respond to the advice.
    Monday - bite the bullet, get out the check book (provided they still take a check) and get a pro in.
    Sounds like a PITA CMD.
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    I checked the switch both mounted and unmounted from the system. It checked out fine. The internet is filled with advice on getting the thing lit but very little on getting the thing to turn off. I sort on not surprised, the thing is redundantly safe so this problem is unexpected. One small thread had someone who claims to be a gas fireplace repair person said there are times when a light blow with a hammer may make a stuck valve open and close properly. My valve did not respond to the advice.
    Monday - bite the bullet, get out the check book (provided they still take a check) and get a pro in.

    Is this the switch you have?
    Empire R5757 On Off Switch

    If so, from what you said about how costly it is to get service where you live, might be worth spending a few bucks and replace the switch even though you say the current one seems good.

    But I have no idea about these things. To me, it sounds like a valve issue.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    I think that I have hit the spot where working any more on this might demonstrably show the horrors of using unskilled labor. To quote that great American philosopher Dirty Harry Callahan, "A man's got to know his limitations". I just wish I didn't have to know so many.

    Sorry you weren’t able to fix it yourself.

    Sounds like a PITA CMD.
     

    CMD-Ky

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    Is this the switch you have?
    Empire R5757 On Off Switch

    If so, from what you said about how costly it is to get service where you live, might be worth spending a few bucks and replace the switch even though you say the current one seems good.

    But I have no idea about these things. To me, it sounds like a valve issue.

    That seems to be the switch. I agree with you, valve.
     

    Bronze

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    I think that I have hit the spot where working any more on this might demonstrably show the horrors of using unskilled labor. To quote that great American philosopher Dirty Harry Callahan, "A man's got to know his limitations". I just wish I didn't have to know so many.
    I have the same inclination as Junkie. Replace the switch. May not work but then it's only $16 and you'll never have to worry about it again.
     
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    UncLeJunkLe

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    You might even be able to find the switch a little cheaper. There are many repair parts sites like RepairClinic, AppliancePartsPros, ereplacementparts, etc. Even Ebay. That was just the first link I found when I found the part # on the PDF manual I was looking at.

    There is another switch assembly in the parts list but I didn't easily find it for sale when I took a quick look.

    The thing that kills you on these small parts is the shipping. I find that if you can find them locally it's usually cheaper even though the price is a little more, there's no shipping so the end price is cheaper. That's what happens on my small engine parts. I usually buy them from a local small engine shop now. She orders them in and the end price is cheaper than online.
     
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    zoiDman

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    I checked the switch both mounted and unmounted from the system. It checked out fine. The internet is filled with advice on getting the thing lit but very little on getting the thing to turn off. I sort on not surprised, the thing is redundantly safe so this problem is unexpected. One small thread had someone who claims to be a gas fireplace repair person said there are times when a light blow with a hammer may make a stuck valve open and close properly. My valve did not respond to the advice.
    Monday - bite the bullet, get out the check book (provided they still take a check) and get a pro in.

    Just Spit-Balling.

    But do you know Anyone you could show this Wiring Diagram to that might be able to give you some Insight?

    d78bebcf-8547-4987-ba69-2ec0d8ec4f5b-bg12.png


    http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/d/d78bebcf-8547-4987-ba69-2ec0d8ec4f5b.pdf

    Not say'n that it Isn't time to bring in a Pro. Just wondering if someone Else might see something that could Help.
     
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    CMD-Ky

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    Just Spit-Balling.

    But do you know Anyone you could show this Wiring Diagram to that might be able to give you some Insight?

    View attachment 926335

    http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/d/d78bebcf-8547-4987-ba69-2ec0d8ec4f5b.pdf

    Not say'n that it Isn't time to bring in a Pro. Just wondering if someone Else might see something that could Help.

    What I took apart, I used a phone camera to make sure I could get it back together, experience, I have a large box of excess parts. The top drawing is a very good rendition of what that valve actually looks like, the propane valve. The wiring is really somewhat less intimidating in person than it looks in the schematic.
    Given that one of the redundant safety features seems to have failed, I think it is time for me to hand this one over to someone else. It will be expensive getting someone here but I think it beats burnt eyebrows.
     

    zoiDman

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    ...

    Given that one of the redundant safety features seems to have failed, I think it is time for me to hand this one over to someone else. It will be expensive getting someone here but I think it beats burnt eyebrows.

    I'm with you.

    Just curious... What does a Brand New complete unit cost? 8 or 9 Bills?
     

    CMD-Ky

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    I'm with you.

    Just curious... What does a Brand New complete unit cost? 8 or 9 Bills?

    I don't know in today's dollars. When we got it, it around $600 installed with the comment that I "got" them and it should have been more. Our place has only recently found its way on to a GPS and on maps programs. That price included removal and disposal of a wood burning firebox, one day to the whole mess. A darn good deal, I thought at that time. That was fifteen years ago, March. The propane tank delivery and set up was additional and I don't know the cost of that. The box man hooked it up from the tank to the new box.
     

    zoiDman

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    I don't know in today's dollars. When we got it, it around $600 installed with the comment that I "got" them and it should have been more. Our place has only recently found its way on to a GPS and on maps programs. That price included removal and disposal of a wood burning firebox, one day to the whole mess. A darn good deal, I thought at that time. That was fifteen years ago, March. The propane tank delivery and set up was additional and I don't know the cost of that. The box man hooked it up from the tank to the new box.

    Gotcha.

    Hopefully it won't be too Expensive to fix.
     
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    newyork13

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    What I took apart, I used a phone camera to make sure I could get it back together, experience, I have a large box of excess parts. The top drawing is a very good rendition of what that valve actually looks like, the propane valve. The wiring is really somewhat less intimidating in person than it looks in the schematic.
    Given that one of the redundant safety features seems to have failed, I think it is time for me to hand this one over to someone else. It will be expensive getting someone here but I think it beats burnt eyebrows.
    LOL. Although they get unruly at times, I like my eyebrows. Get a pro.
     
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    Bronze

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    WiFi ENHANCEMENTS

    Thought I'd start a new topic on how to improve the wifi in your home (cuz I've been messing around with mine again lately). Not gonna get into the weeds here except to outline a few options. We can get into the weeds as we go along for someone's particular situation.

    Generally speaking, many people have a wifi built into their modem (often supplied by their ISP) and that's what they use to supply their entire house with a wifi signal. Others have a router with a built-in wifi that connects to the modem. This wifi signal can also be used to supply the entire house with a wifi signal. This may or may not be a strong enough signal for your home. If it's not enough, there are ways to replace this system using what is called a Mesh system. It's probably the cleanest and possibly the best wifi system. It's also probably the most expensive. Another way, and inexpensive, is to add a repeater to your current wifi. It simply takes your current wifi signal and repeats it in another location of your house. This is fairly effective but it does produce signal loss. And finally, another way is to use access points (bridges). This does the same thing as a repeater except it gets its signal from a hard wire and, therefore, emits a significantly stronger wifi signal vs a repeater. Access points (bridges) is how I have my house rigged for wifi. Many people freak about access points because it requires a hard wire connection and they cannot imagine running a hard wire through their house. Truthfully though, it's not that big of a deal if you have a crawl, basement, or attic. I would rate it as a moderately easy DIY project that doesn't cost much.

    So if you're not happy with the wifi signal in your house and you want to amp things up, you have options. Go ahead and ask if you're interested.
     

    hittman

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    That's a good point Bronze. Cables are not hard to run. I ran cables to my TV and Apple TV box. I didn't want to have to worry about buffering on wifi. I wonder if I could add a five port ethernet switch and then run a bridge from that. She's not home from college much but my youngest complained before about wifi signal strength on the second floor of our house.
     
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    Brewdawg1181

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    WiFi ENHANCEMENTS

    Thought I'd start a new topic on how to improve the wifi in your home (cuz I've been messing around with mine again lately). Not gonna get into the weeds here except to outline a few options. We can get into the weeds as we go along for someone's particular situation.

    Generally speaking, many people have a wifi built into their modem (often supplied by their ISP) and that's what they use to supply their entire house with a wifi signal. Others have a router with a built-in wifi that connects to the modem. This wifi signal can also be used to supply the entire house with a wifi signal. This may or may not be a strong enough signal for your home. If it's not enough, there are ways to replace this system using what is called a Mesh system. It's probably the cleanest and possibly the best wifi system. It's also probably the most expensive. Another way, and inexpensive, is to add a repeater to your current wifi. It simply takes your current wifi signal and repeats it in another location of your house. This is fairly effective but it does produce signal loss. And finally, another way is to use access points (bridges). This does the same thing as a repeater except it gets its signal from a hard wire and, therefore, emits a significantly stronger wifi signal vs a repeater. Access points (bridges) is how I have my house rigged for wifi. Many people freak about access points because it requires a hard wire connection and they cannot imagine running a hard wire through their house. Truthfully though, it's not that big of a deal if you have a crawl, basement, or attic. I would rate it as a moderately easy DIY project that doesn't cost much.

    So if you're not happy with the wifi signal in your house and you want to amp things up, you have options. Go ahead and ask if you're interested.
    I have a 2 story house with basement. Always had a little trouble, because the modem had always been in the basement where the cable came in. Tried more powerful routers, moving the modem to main level, but never got the performance I wanted. I got the Linksys Velop mesh system a few years ago- it's been pretty easy to use, and I like it. I got the base and 2 nodes. After a kid moved out, I easily moved one of the nodes to near the screened porch, where we have a (rarely used) tv that uses Roku, which greatly improved the signal and performance. Not a bad system. It also has a nice interface on your computer, so you can see all devices that have been connected to it, and disconnect access, prioritize, things like that.
     

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