How to Fix Stuff

[cats5365]

I'm pretty sure the blower sat for at least 2 years without use. I think it might have been used prior to that by someone borrowing it who didn't know or care about taking care of the "free" snowblower. I put my mower gas in it last month to run it, and it did run, but had a stinky smell. I always put stabil in the can when I fill it, but it was likely a couple of years old as well. I never noticed it stinking when I ran the mower, so I can't say for sure I had bad gas. My neighbor has a smaller snow blower, and he did some of my drive the evening after I used my machine. His exhaust had the same smell, but I don't know how old his fuel was. He isn't much of a mechanic, but does try to hire people to take care of his stuff. I always liked the smell of the old leaded, regular gas, so maybe I was just noticing the bad smell from modern unleaded gas from a motor without emission controls.

I'm very frustrated at all the YT videos seem to say you have to split the motor from the scoop to do any work on snow blowers. I'm afraid that I might get it apart and then not be strong enough to get it back together. I don't think any of my current neighbors grew up turning wrenches, so I don't think there will be any expert advice on the block.

 

[cats5365]

Snow blower update: We got a pretty good dump of a wet snow today, so I got to take the machine out for a test drive. I ran the can fuel this time.

At first it was hard to keep running after it started. It finally warmed up some and started pulsing a bit, or revving up really fast. It finally settled down, and I was able to get my neighbors driveways done and the sidewalks. I think it ran better on the can fuel than it did on the mower gas I used last time.

One of the neighbors had a lot of pine needles, and I think it started to get a bit plugged up with the needles, but by the time I got to the next house, it wasn't pushing so much snow, but wasn't shooting as much as I expected. It seemed to shoot really well when I pointed it into the wind so that I got covered. If I shot it to the side it was a more wimpy stream.

I have a love/hate relationship with the durn thing. I like that it can move a lot of snow, but my shovel does a better job. I'm still a little sore from fighting the big machine, but I think I would be feeling worse after shoveling all that wet snow. The shovel runs on cookies, and would have needed a few refills to do what the blower did. I think it's going to need a pro tune-up and maybe some carb work during the off season. I'm glad I didn't pay new prices for it. I don't think I would want to replace it in the future.

 

[Bronze]

Snow blower update: We got a pretty good dump of a wet snow today, so I got to take the machine out for a test drive. I ran the can fuel this time.

At first it was hard to keep running after it started. It finally warmed up some and started pulsing a bit, or revving up really fast. It finally settled down, and I was able to get my neighbors driveways done and the sidewalks. I think it ran better on the can fuel than it did on the mower gas I used last time.

One of the neighbors had a lot of pine needles, and I think it started to get a bit plugged up with the needles, but by the time I got to the next house, it wasn't pushing so much snow, but wasn't shooting as much as I expected. It seemed to shoot really well when I pointed it into the wind so that I got covered. If I shot it to the side it was a more wimpy stream.

I have a love/hate relationship with the durn thing. I like that it can move a lot of snow, but my shovel does a better job. I'm still a little sore from fighting the big machine, but I think I would be feeling worse after shoveling all that wet snow. The shovel runs on cookies, and would have needed a few refills to do what the blower did. I think it's going to need a pro tune-up and maybe some carb work during the off season. I'm glad I didn't pay new prices for it. I don't think I would want to replace it in the future.

Yeah, kinda sounds like your carb is feeling a little blue. Not sure of your mechanical skills but changing out a carb isn't very hard and they're cheap to buy. Of course when you change out your carb you'll probably want to change out the fuel lines and fuel filter too. Again, generally not hard to do. And a new spark plug and air filter never hurt anything either along with an oil change. Remember you were working wet snow. That stuff taxes your machine vs when it's a dry snow.

 

[cats5365]

Yeah, kinda sounds like your carb is feeling a little blue. Not sure of your mechanical skills but changing out a carb isn't very hard and they're cheap to buy. Of course when you change out your carb you'll probably want to change out the fuel lines and fuel filter too. Again, generally not hard to do. And a new spark plug and air filter never hurt anything either along with an oil change. Remember you were working wet snow. That stuff taxes your machine vs when it's a dry snow.

I did give him a new plug. I pulled out the original one and it was completely black/sooty, so I just replaced it rather than trying to clean it up. YT people say the snow machines don't have air filters because the snow will plug them up, but I haven't seen mention of fuel filters. I've considered swapping a carb with a new one, and then cleaning the old one. My manual hasn't been terribly helpful--they tell me to contact my local Sears Service Center for the more advanced maintenance than just adding gas and oil.

 

[Bronze]

I did give him a new plug. I pulled out the original one and it was completely black/sooty, so I just replaced it rather than trying to clean it up. YT people say the snow machines don't have air filters because the snow will plug them up, but I haven't seen mention of fuel filters. I've considered swapping a carb with a new one, and then cleaning the old one. My manual hasn't been terribly helpful--they tell me to contact my local Sears Service Center for the more advanced maintenance than just adding gas and oil.

I’m sure you can find a YT vid showing how to put in a new carb. Your engine should have a model number on it somewhere. Is it a Briggs? Your blower has the model number somewhere too. Punch it in the SearsPartsDirect website for the parts listing. Try to get OEM. Most of those small engine carbs are Walbro or Zama carbs. Try to stay away from that Chinese stuff. Those are a 50/50 proposition at best.

 

[cats5365]

I’m sure you can find a YT vid showing how to put in a new carb. Your engine should have a model number on it somewhere. Is it a Briggs? Your blower has the model number somewhere too. Punch it in the SearsPartsDirect website for the parts listing. Try to get OEM. Most of those small engine carbs are Walbro or Zama carbs. Try to stay away from that Chinese stuff. Those are a 50/50 proposition at best.

It's a Tecumsa motor, 9 HP. The YT videos haven't shown the exact model I have, but have shown R/R on their carbs, and it looks fairly simple to do that part. Rehabbing the carbs after they are off the machine is a little more fiddly, but it seems like having a spare sitting around isn't a bad thing.

I found a few parts on the SearsPartsDirect, but it wasn't easy to navigate, and they didn't have everything I needed, or I couldn't find it. I might try calling some small engine B&M places to see if they still have experts that can help me find the exact fit parts. They are more likely to know if I need to get any unexpected things for doing a certain repair (like gaskets and such).

I want to avoid the Chinese parts. I love my little Pico 75, but it ain't a Provari.

 

[hittman]

I did give him a new plug. I pulled out the original one and it was completely black/sooty, so I just replaced it rather than trying to clean it up. YT people say the snow machines don't have air filters because the snow will plug them up, but I haven't seen mention of fuel filters. I've considered swapping a carb with a new one, and then cleaning the old one. My manual hasn't been terribly helpful--they tell me to contact my local Sears Service Center for the more advanced maintenance than just adding gas and oil.

I replaced the carburetor on my little Toro snowblower. I’m sure you could do it too. If you can find a good small engine shop then they should be able to get the part for you.

 

[Bronze]

Yeah, the price of new carbs is cheap enough where rebuilding isn't worth the time.

 

[hittman]

Yeah, the price of new carbs is cheap enough where rebuilding isn't worth the time.

I think I paid $50 for the one for my snowblower. I did know the shop from dealing with them at my work so they may have given me a discount but wouldn't count on it since I didn't run it through our account.

 

[Bronze]

I think I paid $50 for the one for my snowblower. I did know the shop from dealing with them at my work so they may have given me a discount but wouldn't count on it since I didn't run it through our account.

The OEMs will cost more than the Chinese junk but it's worth it.

 

[hittman]

The OEMs will cost more than the Chinese junk but it's worth it.

Mine was OEM. I bought it from a Toro warranty repair center. They are also a Kohler engine warranty repair center that I dealt with for years through my work.

 

[Bronze]

Mine was OEM. I bought it from a Toro warranty repair center. They are also a Kohler engine warranty repair center that I dealt with for years through my work.

I think most small engine manufacturers source their carbs. Probably some exceptions. Walbro and Zama are the two big ones.

Saw something very interesting on a YT video the other day. A fuel injection chainsaw from Stihl. They’d be the ones to do it.

Speaking of chainsaws, I just sawed up a 24” dia white oak. It was a blow down. Perfectly healthy tree. I used my 25 year old 18” Craftsman (really a Poulan). Gotta have it totally dialed in to saw a tree that thick with an 18” bar. Not even sure a new Craftsman (or Poulan) could do it. They make total junk now. They were actually half decent 25 years ago. Not anymore.

 

[hittman]

I think most small engine manufacturers source their carbs. Probably some exceptions. Walbro and Zama are the two big ones.

Saw something very interesting on a YT video the other day. A fuel injection chainsaw from Stihl. They’d be the ones to do it.

Speaking of chainsaws, I just sawed up a 24” dia white oak. It was a blow down. Perfectly healthy tree. I used my 25 year old 18” Craftsman (really a Poulan). Gotta have it totally dialed in to saw a tree that thick with an 18” bar. Not even sure a new Craftsman (or Poulan) could do it. They make total junk now. They were actually half decent 25 years ago. Not anymore.

Ever since Craftsman got sold out the tools have been junk. I bought my tools back in the early 90’s and all are great still. I looked at some new craftsman pliers at a store recently and they were horrible.

I’ve heard of Walbro but not the other one. I see a lot of Nikki carbs on stuff I see at my work.

 

[Bronze]

Ever since Craftsman got sold out the tools have been junk. I bought my tools back in the early 90’s and all are great still. I looked at some new craftsman pliers at a store recently and they were horrible.

I’ve heard of Walbro but not the other one. I see a lot of Nikki carbs on stuff I see at my work.

Sounds Japanese.

 

[hittman]

Sounds Japanese.

If you get bored, I found this page on the company. Their carburetors are used on a lot of Kohler two cylinder engines used on welder generators. I’m not sure about lawn tractors but would assume they use the same ones. I’m most familiar with the Kohler CH20, 23, and 730 models.

Company Information - Nikki Co., Ltd.

Toward carbon neutrality, we will actively develop products and technologies centered on engine fuel supply systems, create products that help protect and preserve the global environment and effectively utilize resources, and contribute to the development of society. Information such as company...

www.nikkinet.co.jp

 

[LAwaters]

I have a stuck license plate holder on my ‘02 Toyota Sequoia. The inserts for the screws on the body are plastic. Heat melted, in all likelihood. The screws are not stripped — yet.

I can tell you what doesn’t work:

- screwdriver or drill
- locking needle nose pliers
- WD40
- tapping screwdriver with hammer while turning
- rubber band

Next up will be drilling into screw and screw extractor. So much fun (not)!

 

[Toots]

Vinegar?

 

[hittman]

I'm surprised vise grips wouldn't turn the screw out of a plastic insert

 

[zoiDman]

I have a stuck license plate holder on my ‘02 Toyota Sequoia. The inserts for the screws on the body are plastic. Heat melted, in all likelihood. The screws are not stripped — yet.

I can tell you what doesn’t work:

- screwdriver or drill
- locking needle nose pliers
- WD40
- tapping screwdriver with hammer while turning
- rubber band

Next up will be drilling into screw and screw extractor. So much fun (not)!

I Really Hope you don't have to jump thru all the hoops this guy does to fix this one...



But maybe seeing what he is doing will give you Ideas about what is going on with yours.

 

[LAwaters]

Vinegar?

I love vinegar for so many things. Really wanted to try it, but I can’t seem to get even the WD40 to penetrate to the threads. The screws are not rusted at all — at least on the heads.

I'm surprised vise grips wouldn't turn the screw out of a plastic insert

I’m guessing that the extreme heat fused or melted the plastic to the screw threads. First in Las Vegas, then SoCal. Applying heat might work, but I’d have to buy a small torch.