That was helpful thanks! If it comes to that, I’d be taking it to the shop. Seems crazy to need to do that, but that’s a lot more than I’m willing to go through. I put the old plates on 8 years ago with no problem at all. It’s possible that I over-tightened, but I’m always careful about that. I have to rewatch because it looks on mine like the inserts are plastic, and made me think there was a melting issue causing it to be stuck. Everything’s an adventure!
That was helpful thanks! If it comes to that, I’d be taking it to the shop. Seems crazy to need to do that, but that’s a lot more than I’m willing to go through. I put the old plates on 8 years ago with no problem at all. It’s possible that I over-tightened, but I’m always careful about that. I have to rewatch because it looks on mine like the inserts are plastic, and made me think there was a melting issue causing it to be stuck. Everything’s an adventure!
Yeah it is Crazy how sometimes what you need to get to is Buried Under layers of trim and whatnot.
If worse came to worse, and if the threads are gone, I would consider Drilling out what you have and then using some form of a "Hallow Wall Anchor"
They come in all kinds from very simple to something that looks like it was meant for the Space Shuttle.
Last edited:
Yes! We purchased a version of those to use on the front fender. Went beautifully. California requires license plates on the front and back. Rather than drill through the fender, we used those anchors and mounted the plate on the bottom of the fender where there is a grill. It’s a solid hold.
I wonder if a high powered soldering iron would heat up the screws enough? That way you wouldn’t have to worry about an open flame.
After many attempts to drill through the screws without putting much of a dent in the metal, I realized they must be hardened steel.
Next up: Drill bit set for granite and stone will be delivered. Supposedly cuts through hardened steel “like butter” and I sure hope so. Frustrating task I’ve had here!
WD40 isn't all it's cracked up to be.
if you have rusted screw threads, maybe a nut behind like that video, you MIGHT get some help with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or some such. It will "soak" along the rusted metal if you let it sit a while. Warning, might eat paint so clean it up.
Other tips about the product for purposes of discussion, may not be applicable to your use case as you can't get behind the holder and don't have the back off. But interesting tips about using a pick from the thread side of the bolt.
Check out this Amazon review of B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11-Ounces
With PB Blaster and these tips, u can usually remove a seized nut or bolt. fyi, WD is NOT the same
www.amazon.com
Last edited:
PB Blaster is a better penetrate than WD40. It’s basically 50/50 automatic transmission fluid/acetone.
OK, I just cleaned the coils on my 2 house AC units using a product called Nu-Brite. I clean them every 2-3 years. My ACs are 26 years old. Need I say more?
Rivet nuts. The insert is put in just like a standard rivet, but it is threaded to accept bolts once it's in place. They're pretty danged slick and an absolute godsend.
Those Rivet Nuts (or sometimes called "Rivserts") can be Lifesavers. Especially when a Specific Thread Size is required .
If anyone has never seen how they work, here is a pretty good vid.
My daughter moved into a 'new for her' house. The previous owners obviously had two doors in the doorway from the kitchen to the dinning room. There's 6 hinge mortises that need filling. (3 on each side of the doorway.)
I was thinking about using this, instead of a regular wood filler. But I remember using it a long time ago on my house to repair damaged wood and it sets up pretty dang quick there's not much working time and it's hard to spread it like speckle. It lasted a long time outside so I'd expect it to last even longer inside.
Then there's also the choice of using a regular wood filler which would give more working time but I'm concerned about it cracking in time around the edges.
I'm open to any suggestions you may have.
I was thinking about using this, instead of a regular wood filler. But I remember using it a long time ago on my house to repair damaged wood and it sets up pretty dang quick there's not much working time and it's hard to spread it like speckle. It lasted a long time outside so I'd expect it to last even longer inside.
Then there's also the choice of using a regular wood filler which would give more working time but I'm concerned about it cracking in time around the edges.
I'm open to any suggestions you may have.
You can also replace the entire board. But I've had decent luck with wood fillers. Minwax makes good stuff. And it's a painted surface so that will hide any color/texture issues.
If you are going to do the "2-Part Epoxy" route, I would suggest using Bondo Wood Filler.
Bondo Wood Filler - Amazon
Or even just Regular Bondo.
Regular Bondo - Amazon
You get about Twice as much verses the Minwax. And I think the Bondo Products are a Tad Easier to work with. Strength for something like this being Interior shouldn't be an issue no matter which you use.
For a more Traditional patch, MK Ready Patch be Zinsser is the Best. It is Solvent Base. And doesn't have near the Shrinkage when Dried than Water Based Patches. Easy to Sand and work with. It also has about 3x the Strength of H2O based patches. Couple it with Fiberglass Mesh Tape and you have a Mean Combo.
I Cringe to even post a link at this price. Because it was about 9 Bucks/Quart before COVID.
Zinsser 1 qt. Low VOC Ready Patch Spackling and Patching Compound 352305 - The Home Depot
Enjoy the Zinsser 1-Gallon Ready Patch Spackling and Patching Compound 04421, fast-drying used to fill holes, gaps and cracks in masonry, metal and wood from The Home Depot
www.homedepot.com
Last edited:
If you have the woodworking equipment, I'd plane down some wood to 1/8", cut a peice to fit the hole.
Glue it in. Sand it flush. Fill in any cracks around the edge. Paint.
Glue it in. Sand it flush. Fill in any cracks around the edge. Paint.
@Bronze
Then I looked how well the casing was 'glued' to the wall after multiple 'paintings' over the years and the chore it would be to get it off in general without damaging it too bad. And in particular the opposite side which doesn't give much clearance for working room to remove it.
Of course I could alway buy everything new plus I was trying to avoid a 'major' project ripping it apart and putting it back together.
And the opposite side
My first thought was to take of the casing to get to the face board and then take that off and 'hopefully' I could just turn it around and put it all back together again.
Then I looked how well the casing was 'glued' to the wall after multiple 'paintings' over the years and the chore it would be to get it off in general without damaging it too bad. And in particular the opposite side which doesn't give much clearance for working room to remove it.
Of course I could alway buy everything new plus I was trying to avoid a 'major' project ripping it apart and putting it back together.
And the opposite side
A patch repair using a wood shim may be an idea.
Router and chisel to get a level surface, then a donor patch of wood, plane, fill, sand, prime and paint.
Bondo was my alternate choice ... but both the can of condo with hardener and the 'roll' of Bondo where you take off of piece to use 1.) also have fast curing times and you have to work fast and 2.) like the Minwax product it's not easy to spread with a putty knife.If you are going to do the "2-Part Epoxy" route, I would suggest using Bondo Wood Filler.
Bondo Wood Filler - Amazon
Or even just Regular Bondo.
Regular Bondo - Amazon
You get about Twice as much verses the Minwax. And I think the Bondo Products are a Tad Easier to work with. Strength for something like this being Interior shouldn't be an issue no matter which you use.
For a more Traditional patch, MK Ready Patch be Zinsser is the Best. It is Solvent Base. And doesn't have near the Shrinkage when Dried than Water Based Patches. Easy to Sand and work with. It also has about 3x the Strength of H2O based patches. Couple it with Fiberglass Mesh Tape and you have a Mean Combo.
I Cringe to even post a link at this price. Because it was about 9 Bucks/Quart before COVID.
Zinsser 1 qt. Low VOC Ready Patch Spackling and Patching Compound 352305 - The Home Depot
Enjoy the Zinsser 1-Gallon Ready Patch Spackling and Patching Compound 04421, fast-drying used to fill holes, gaps and cracks in masonry, metal and wood from The Home Depotwww.homedepot.com
I watched a video of that Zinsser product. It looked 'spreadable' and had a longer working time. But it is more expensive $26 for 32oz @ Amazon and an oil based version for a couple bucks less.
Any real difference between the two. If the red label it better I've no issue with spending a couple extra bucks.
I think I'm going to try this product. Early June my wife and I are moving into another house and it would be used for some repair work there also.
Unfortunately my stationary tools are all in storage (that's another story). I've got a surface planner but I've never tried using it to make a board less than 1/2 inch. I don't even know if it would go down to 1/8". That's pretty thin.
The hinges measure just a wee bit over 1/16 inch, so a patch insert of 1/8 would be a bunch of sanding which I'd like to avoid so I don't mess up the edge of the casing.
The only wood I could think of that would be thin enough was balsa wood ... but I threw that out as being too soft for use in a high traffic area and an edge to boot.
Continued in next post.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
