Ha! so far so good on the squirrels. I tried trapping and relocating those suckers some years back, they would dig up the wife's flowers. There seems to be an endless supply of them. The only hope is a pet falcon. lol Oh, and I used peanuts too, though apple is good for groundhogs. I had them in my work garden. : )
Ha! so far so good on the squirrels. I tried trapping and relocating those suckers some years back, they would dig up the wife's flowers. There seems to be an endless supply of them. The only hope is a pet falcon. lol Oh, and I used peanuts too, though apple is good for groundhogs. I had them in my work garden. : )
Apples are supposed to be a good bait for squirrels, too.
Squirrels will take every single tomato off a tomato plant, and only take a bit or 2 from each one. Never had that problem until last summer.
That's why I'm gonna continue to trap even if I think they are out of the house.
I actually like watching the damn things do their things, but I can't have this.
Not gonna do that until I'm certain they are out. I gotta pay someone to do the job because I don't have access to the attic so has to be done from the outside. Apex vents.
If I do it from inside, that will cost more money since I have to make hole in ceiling to access attic.
Bats were a real problem where I live and the pest guy would seal up everything but the main entry and then put a thing he made (kind of phallic looking) out of 1/4" hardware screen. The bats would go out and then they would have to find another house to go to. lol
They generally leave during the day.I call them apex vents. Not sure what they're usually called.
That's what lots of people say but, yet that's not my experience at all in the last month. It/They come(s) and go at all hours except I never hear after about 10 or 11PM. Local wildlife refuge confirmed that it is gray squirrel from the few droppings I've found in a crawlspace.
Grab a lawn chair and a cooler and hang outside and see when and where they’re getting in. That’s how I did it.
Possibly but there are plenty more squirrels to take its place and you don’t want holes in your roof either.
FWIW...Squirrels, Rats, Mice and any other critter that burrows will use Gopher and Mole tunnels to get under your foundation and into a structure. When we moved where we are 25 years ago, there was a SERIOUS infestation under our solid (vented) concrete footing foundation. They were getting in under the house through a Mole Hole near the only access.
Even though I installed stainless steel (1/4"×1/4" mesh) screen, the vermin were getting in/out.
Every (Pump House, Playhouse, ALL insulation under the house) out-building was crawling with them day and night.
I finally bought five/1 gallon jugs of pelletized Rat/Mouse poison and put a gallon of pellets (in a heavy rubber bowl) inside and/or under every building.
Within a week, the vermin population was flatlined.
I live in the country, so I'll go to whatever extent (short of destruction) possible to eradicate the pest.
Even though I installed stainless steel (1/4"×1/4" mesh) screen, the vermin were getting in/out.
Every (Pump House, Playhouse, ALL insulation under the house) out-building was crawling with them day and night.
I finally bought five/1 gallon jugs of pelletized Rat/Mouse poison and put a gallon of pellets (in a heavy rubber bowl) inside and/or under every building.
Within a week, the vermin population was flatlined.
I live in the country, so I'll go to whatever extent (short of destruction) possible to eradicate the pest.
Last edited:
Plumbing question. When turn on the water for the tub, water comes out the tub faucet and shower head. If I close (pull up the pin) diverter for shower only, it works properly. That water only comes from the shower head.
It's like the diverter is not fully open in the 'pin down' configuration or something is blocking the line. Any thoughts about what could be going on and how to fix it.
The faucet appears to be screwed onto the copper feed pipe. With a mirror and flashlight I looked on the under side of the faucet where there is an opening and I can see the copper pipe but no sign of a set screw holding the faucet on.
So how would you approach taking the faucet off without damaging it. And just 'testing' by hand when I try to unscrew it I can 'feel' the plumbing behind the wall 'moving'. I looked back there through an access way and the feed to the faucet is not 'fixed' to anything except the copper line attaching it to the main valve above it.
This is an almost new Moen setup put in by the previous owner just before we bought this house last July, so hopefully the faucet isn't 'age
attached to the threaded pipe.
It's like the diverter is not fully open in the 'pin down' configuration or something is blocking the line. Any thoughts about what could be going on and how to fix it.
The faucet appears to be screwed onto the copper feed pipe. With a mirror and flashlight I looked on the under side of the faucet where there is an opening and I can see the copper pipe but no sign of a set screw holding the faucet on.
So how would you approach taking the faucet off without damaging it. And just 'testing' by hand when I try to unscrew it I can 'feel' the plumbing behind the wall 'moving'. I looked back there through an access way and the feed to the faucet is not 'fixed' to anything except the copper line attaching it to the main valve above it.
This is an almost new Moen setup put in by the previous owner just before we bought this house last July, so hopefully the faucet isn't 'age
attached to the threaded pipe.
Something to try....
With the water full flow, pull up-push down 5 or 6 times on the diverter. Then stop on the upward pull to see if that cleared the problem. Sometimes being gentle does not work as expected.
With the water full flow, pull up-push down 5 or 6 times on the diverter. Then stop on the upward pull to see if that cleared the problem. Sometimes being gentle does not work as expected.
Some are, some aren't. Mine are but they are old. However I see they do still make screw-on spouts. If you're has no set screw anywhere then chances are your is screw-on but obviously you gotta verify lol.
Take a pic of the faucet, and even parts of the faucet, then image search them to see if you can find the model or a very similar one. May be helpful to include "moen" as accompanying text for the image search. Then you can find the manual /installation procedure. With the model # you might also be able to find a solution to the problem.
Also take off a knob and look around the inside part as sometimes they stamp the model # inside a handle.
Last edited:
Sounds like the Shower Diverter is clogged with either some "Hard Water" buildup or Rust or some crud. Or the Valve Seal is just failing. But you said it was relatively new. So it is probably just clogged.
WARNING: Don't start trying to Turn things unless you know things are Bolted to Structure. Or you have someone on the "other side" holding things down while you turn things from the Tub Side.
You might have to Cut an Access Panel to be able to get to things. So hopefully the tub plumbing is in a wall which is in a closet.
Anyway... Before you go all Commando cutting Dry Wall and such. Try putting some White Vinegar in a Plastic Bag and then Attaching the Bag over the Tub Spout with Zip and Duct Tape. Let it soak for a couple of hours and see it gets better.
There are all kinds of Hard Water Mineral Dissolvers like "CLR". But some can be hard on some plastics. So I would just try the White Vinegar approach.
Moen has been known to do some somewhat Tripping things when it comes to making connections. So getting the Exact Model of the Tub Spout is kinda a must.
This is how the Moen Tube Spout at my Sister's house goes on/off.
Last edited:
Plumbing is my biggest peeve in our place. We have a well and a pump house. All but the filtration and softener are buried 3'-5' down.
Everything inside the house, I redone over time. Everywhere that needed repairs over the years, I revamped and modified to gain easy access. Whether it was an access panel, or complete modification to a closet wall, or entire closet, all shelving and cabinetry was made to be taken apart by removing screws to break it down for easy access. Putting it back together, I made an assembly order list/diagram for "easier" not easy reassembly. All the buried lines have ball valves between the wellhead/pumphouse, pumphouse/house, and main feed to the hot water tank.
Sometimes I despise living in the country, most times, there's no better place to be.
Everything inside the house, I redone over time. Everywhere that needed repairs over the years, I revamped and modified to gain easy access. Whether it was an access panel, or complete modification to a closet wall, or entire closet, all shelving and cabinetry was made to be taken apart by removing screws to break it down for easy access. Putting it back together, I made an assembly order list/diagram for "easier" not easy reassembly. All the buried lines have ball valves between the wellhead/pumphouse, pumphouse/house, and main feed to the hot water tank.
Sometimes I despise living in the country, most times, there's no better place to be.
Thanks folks for you input. I do have the installation instructions and it says depending on the type of faucet included with the set it either screws on or uses a set screw. It has diagrams and pictures of both types. As I said I'm pretty sure it screws on because with a mirror looking up from the bottom into the end of the faucet I only see the copper feed pipe, no set screw/clamp type of setup.
I wish it were like the diagram zoiDman posted.
There's already a decent size access panel in the bedroom closet adjoining the bathroom wall. So that's a plus. If I have to try screwing it off I can have someone trying to hold the plumbing in 'place' through the access panel while trying to unscrew the faucet.
I like the idea of trying the bag of vinegar before trying to take it apart. I'm doubtful because there doesn't appear to be any build up of crud the I look into he opening, but it's worth a try.
My other, main bath w/ shower, is out of service while the shower area is being remodeled. I don't think I'll mess with the flakey hall bath faucet until the main shower is back and functional.
Know just trying to think what tool to use to unscrew the faucet when the time comes without damaging the surface.
I wish it were like the diagram zoiDman posted.
There's already a decent size access panel in the bedroom closet adjoining the bathroom wall. So that's a plus. If I have to try screwing it off I can have someone trying to hold the plumbing in 'place' through the access panel while trying to unscrew the faucet.
I like the idea of trying the bag of vinegar before trying to take it apart. I'm doubtful because there doesn't appear to be any build up of crud the I look into he opening, but it's worth a try.
My other, main bath w/ shower, is out of service while the shower area is being remodeled. I don't think I'll mess with the flakey hall bath faucet until the main shower is back and functional.
Know just trying to think what tool to use to unscrew the faucet when the time comes without damaging the surface.
I can't help much on the plumbing part, but I found some silicone "oil filter" wrenches on Amazon that might help with getting the faucet turned.
Amazon.com : rubber oil filter wrench
Mine just screw off with my hands. Rubber coated work gloves help, sometimes both hands needed. Wrench with a towel/rag folded up is all that's needed to protect finish...if wrench is needed at all.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
