How to improve wicking in a KFL?

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Commie

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I have s lightly modded EHPro KFL clone -- the airhole is enlarged.

Works great, and the airflow is just perfect. Even almost no whistling.

However, it seems to not pull in enough juice to the coil. Every now and then I end up having to cover the airhole and take a few sharp dry pulls to feed it.

The wick is Rayon, and it's not overpacked into the well.

I appreciate any suggestions and ideas!

Thank you!
Commie
 

DoubleEwe

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You are going to need to suck harder.

Because the Kayfun wicking relies on the vacuum effect, your enlargement of the airflow means that there is less pressure difference caused by your suction...

Sucked out air = Air coming through airhole + juice coming through juice channels

With your opened airflow
Sucked out air = Air coming through airhole

You need to be creating a difference between what is sucked out and what is let in through the airhole, the bigger the difference the more juice will get sucked in to the chamber.
 

Cyrus Vap

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The only thing that worked for me (Russian 91%) was enlarging the juice channels (they're pretty much Aqua sized now). I got sick of battling those pinholes man. I use thick juice, take long draws and prefer higher watts so YMMV. But I don't get any flooding so it doesn't seem to hurt at all.

And what DoubleEwe said...I leave my AFC screw out and lung hit which helps a ton...but the opened channels have made it so that I can mouth hit now also at any AFC setting and all is well

And its still inferior to a Reo/Dual coil dripper (wink wink) but a pleasant change of flavor and pace for sometimes...
 

State O' Flux

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The KF design, more so than any other RTA, works successfully due to two specific features... those being a pressure differential, which is common among sealed tank type atomizers... and more unique to the KF design, a boundary layer (or level) that keeps the juice in the tank, until you produce a negative pressure signal.
Unlike most other RTAs, the wicks do not lay soaking in a juice pool... being fed as much by capillary action as pressure variances.

When not in use, you have two opposing pressures in a KF - the atmospheric pressure all around us, and above the juice channels in the atomization chamber or chimney assembly - and then the opposing force, the negative pressure in the juice tank, or below the juice (actually, when the tank is upright, also above the juice), holding it in a relatively neutral position called the boundary layer.

The two pressures, combined with the specific juice channel orifice dimensions, hold the juice level in a stable position within those channels. Juice is metered out only when there's a sufficient increase in exterior vacuum (via the draw) to overcome the interior vacuum.
The boundary layer shifts upwards to the wicks. If this clever design balance is modified in any way... your fail choices become flooding or dry hits.

To reiterate the comments of DoubleEwe in a slightly different way... by enlarging the inlet air pathways, you've reallocated a larger percentage of your available draw vacuum towards drawing in fresh atmospheric air, and less towards lifting juice up the channels... and to the waiting wicks.
So you (or rather the folks who drilled it for you) selected dry hits as the modification fail.


commie said:
Every now and then I end up having to cover the airhole and take a few sharp dry pulls to feed it.
And that's what you'll be required to do from now on, unless you're willing to decrease the outside airflow back to the original capabilities.
 

DaveP

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Try this build. The secret is the 90 degree coil mounting that allows the wick ends to spread vertically all the way across the deck near the juice channel. I've been up to 5v on my 2 ohm coil with no dry hits. It wicks so well that dry hits are non-existent. There's a detailed step by step pictorial guide at the link. Cutting the cotton squarely is important to make all the ends touch the deck for better absorption, but it's easy to do.

(Thanks to Romelee, an ECF member who originally posted this)

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/503153-kayfun-3-1-microcoil-cotton-guide.html

Step11a_zps71d61eb0.jpg
 
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State O' Flux

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Thanks guys!
After adjusting the airflow to be tighter, it works better.

Somewhat unrelated question though -- how is it that a Taifun can handle bigger airflow? From my limited understanding, it uses the same mechanics as Kayfun? Just cause its wick holes are bigger?

Actually, although it is a PD atomizer, it uses the more common method of exposed wicks, and in the case of the GT, adjustable wick port orifices.
 

DaveP

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IMO, the 90 degree coil version in 3mm with a larger wick and splayed wicking on the deck next to the channels has been the most efficient I've tried so far. When I've installed the coil inline with the screws on each end of 1.83mm coil, the wicking is much more prone to dry out when I raise the voltage. With the 3mm coil turned 90 degrees I've been able to run a 2.2 ohm 3mm coil at 4.5v without worrying about whether the wick can keep up.

You just have to make sure that the wick fibers touch the deck as much as possible to ensure maximum juice transfer.
 
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