Kanthal A1 melt temp is ~2700 F (1500 C). Coil popping can occur from a hot wire under tension. As you reach the failure temp around 2550 F (1400 C) the wire can stress, thin, etc. I dont think we could ever reach a temp with our attys to vaporize kanthal.
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Kanthal A1 melt temp is ~2700 F (1500 C). Coil popping can occur from a hot wire under tension. As you reach the failure temp around 2550 F (1400 C) the wire can stress, thin, etc. I dont think we could ever reach a temp with our attys to vaporize kanthal.
I remember someone posting a temperature chart for Nichrome wire. It might be very similar to Kanthal A-1.
When I popped a few Kanthal A1 wires, I remember seeing (fast fast it was) it turning white like a camera flash. Probably the higher glow and white color associated with higher temp.
I wonder what temp. C we do reach when dry burning our coils with wick removed for cleaning. Can we reach over 900 C? I'd love to have access to the measuring equipment I had access to at my last job! Grrrr.
When I popped a few Kanthal A1 wires, I remember seeing (fast fast it was) it turning white like a camera flash. Probably the higher glow and white color associated with higher temp.
I wonder what temp. C we do reach when dry burning our coils with wick removed for cleaning. Can we reach over 900 C? I'd love to have access to the measuring equipment I had access to at my last job! Grrrr.
I did this with 1 pc of ribbon wire. I don't know the exact size. It was a gift.
I fastened the center of the wire to the + post first, then I wrapped each drill bit from the top down. It was like sewing. Once I got to the bottom I pulled the wire very tight and went around the negative screws in a clockwise direction. This assured the wire was pulled very tight when the screws were fastened down. I then removed the drill bits and fired the coils 3 or 4 times to solidify the coil structures.
I boiled 2 pcs of 500 mesh. Other than that, the mesh never was exposed to any heat until they were fired in the coils. There were no hot spots, no shorts. Nothing to adjust at all.
This is my first attempt at unoxidized mesh. I will never torch mesh again. The flavor is much better. The setup was much faster.
I fastened the center of the wire to the + post first, then I wrapped each drill bit from the top down. It was like sewing. Once I got to the bottom I pulled the wire very tight and went around the negative screws in a clockwise direction. This assured the wire was pulled very tight when the screws were fastened down. I then removed the drill bits and fired the coils 3 or 4 times to solidify the coil structures.
I boiled 2 pcs of 500 mesh. Other than that, the mesh never was exposed to any heat until they were fired in the coils. There were no hot spots, no shorts. Nothing to adjust at all.
This is my first attempt at unoxidized mesh. I will never torch mesh again. The flavor is much better. The setup was much faster.
Thanks!
The res is .8Ω At least it was when I finished setting it up. I need to check it again, because it does not vape like it's that low. It is an incredible vape.
Thanks. That is the Steam Turbine from Doc Dave. The Bliss maker. Absolutely incredible vape. Its got 4 .5mm air holes. 2 stacked on each side. The draw is still medium to tight, just how I like it.
that looks great, and the most important thing is that you are satisfied. good job.
Nice one, man.
Just picked up some similar wire. Maybe I'll try something like that with my dual wick AGA-T. .8ohms eh? That's gotta be .6 ribbon or so at 5 wraps each. Have you measured the resistance on a length of it and compared to a wire chart?
I have one wick that works perfectly but its a solid wick that is alittle smaller than the coils and doesnt touch at all points. I made another wick that is thin and hollow and it touches evenly with just a slight tension but it keeps shorting and too low resistance. Im not getting vapor as I should with the solid wick (I think) as only part of the coils are actually touching the wick. (1.6ohm coil 6/5) Why would one work and the other short?
edit: found an easy way to remove spacing around the smaller wick...move the coils (while the wick is in place) to a diagonal. Now at least all the coils touch. Still no idea why the solid wick works and the other doesnt.
edit: found an easy way to remove spacing around the smaller wick...move the coils (while the wick is in place) to a diagonal. Now at least all the coils touch. Still no idea why the solid wick works and the other doesnt.
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that is awesome kwalka, It is possible for it to still short after you have it up and running? What if the coils shift somehow?
My personal experience with a similar setup is that it only gets better with time. The juice will cook a bit under the coil and on the wick, holding it in place with some juice gunk. Taste gets amazing. Vapor is a killer. Then it gets too gunky. So I remove the wick, clean it in PGA, burn PGA on it. Dry burn the coil itself. Reinsert the wick, fire and twist and move the wick itself until all the coils glow even and fill it up.
Never had a short or a hot spot when I can make a perfectly round coil and wick. Those two are key: wick & coil. They must fit very well together.
Never had a short or a hot spot when I can make a perfectly round coil and wick. Those two are key: wick & coil. They must fit very well together.
I too use this method
I carry 3 prefilled DIDs with me, and have never had an issue.
if I DO develop a short, I just twist my wick a bit, and it's gone
I carry 3 prefilled DIDs with me, and have never had an issue.
if I DO develop a short, I just twist my wick a bit, and it's gone
I've done it w/ a Provari. Just turn the volts down to 3.3-3.5 when starting out. And don't be surprised if it throws up E1 and/or E8 errors. Just pause let the Provari reset and start again. Use short pulses as you work the shorts our of the coil. When all the coils begin glowing up the volts a tad and pulse some more to settle in the coil. When ready - don't crank it up to your desired V setting. Run it a bit lower for awhile then increase to where you want it.
Just built my first coil, took me two hours, haha, I might have been a little OCD but it is pretty.
Was thinking this evening: what if I heat the coil under the flame of a propane torch? Might not be the temperature needed to properly oxidize Kanthal A-1 and have a layer of non conductive aluminum oxide migrate / cover the surface. But might make the coil less conductive instead of non conductive.
I tried with 28 AWG since smaller might "burn and snap". Gave the coil a long burn in the hottest part of the flame. Coil came out grey, non reflective. Tested with a cheap handheld multimeter. Got surprising result: would not conduct. Nothing. No reading. On brand new wire, I get a reading. So I guess it did help.
Huge coil I have: 9 wraps on a 3 mm wick. Reads 1.9 ohms. Takes a while to heat up at 4.2 V. But no hot spots at all, no short, nothing. Easiest setup I've made yet.
I tried with 28 AWG since smaller might "burn and snap". Gave the coil a long burn in the hottest part of the flame. Coil came out grey, non reflective. Tested with a cheap handheld multimeter. Got surprising result: would not conduct. Nothing. No reading. On brand new wire, I get a reading. So I guess it did help.
Huge coil I have: 9 wraps on a 3 mm wick. Reads 1.9 ohms. Takes a while to heat up at 4.2 V. But no hot spots at all, no short, nothing. Easiest setup I've made yet.
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