Just tested it on this guy to experiment.
I have some of those coming. I am just curious how people are doing this stuff?
how to polish your GGTS
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Just tested it on this guy to experiment.
I have some of those coming. I am just curious how people are doing this stuff?
They are basically fine sand paper. The package I got has 6 grades and you just work your way down to the finest grade until it's shiny again. I finish up with a standard polish and buff by hand. It's very effective for work done by hand.
Amazon.com: 37-948 3M Micron Polishing Papers 8 1/2x11" Asst (6): Toys & Games
Amazon.com: 37-948 3M Micron Polishing Papers 8 1/2x11" Asst (6): Toys & Games
its maybe like the number of sandpaper I always suggest, that is a 1500 river or those 3M are even bigger number?
It's hard to say Imeo because they rate the coarseness in microns...30 microns being the coarsest and 1 micron being the finest. But I would guess that one of the finer papers is somewhere around 1500 grade. The finest though is probably higher than that. It works excellent for cleaning contacts too, as you suggest.
thanks river. If its good for polishing then its good for the contacts too.
I have a lot of people telling me that they cant find anywhere the sandpaper I tell them to buy, so your suggestion is really helpful!
I have a lot of people telling me that they cant find anywhere the sandpaper I tell them to buy, so your suggestion is really helpful!
I found these at eBay 3M Polishing Papers for Art Silver Clay-COPPERclay-BRONZEclay-Precious Metals | eBay
Is this the same as RiverNut suggested? It has 6 sheets, 1 sheet each of grits 400,600,1200,4000,6000,& 8000.
Are all grits usable or the lower number aren't?
Is this the same as RiverNut suggested? It has 6 sheets, 1 sheet each of grits 400,600,1200,4000,6000,& 8000.
Are all grits usable or the lower number aren't?
That's it John. You will want to use all grits if you're trying to remove scratches and then polish. 4000 works good for polishing/cleaning your contacts.
I haven't checked but you might be able to order specific grits separately.
I haven't checked but you might be able to order specific grits separately.
if the meassurments are same as in Greece then the 8000 seems the best John
I have #414 SS GGTS, the engravings are pretty shallow... I am afraid polishing it too many times will remove the engravings. Am I just worrying too much or how can I avoid this? Can I just avoid polishing the engravings themselves? Will that area look duller?
Thanks!
Thanks!
also kind of a stupid question, but how do you guys use the polishing papers? Should I wrap is around a small piece of wood or something? Or can I just wrap the entire 3M paper around the metal tube and rotate it with my hand? I just want to make sure it's polished evenly... should I do small circles or does it not really matter?
Thanks
Thanks
Using a piece of wood should be more accurate. Don't get me wrong but if you just want to polish your GG then sanding paper isn't the right way to go. Use sanding paper if you want to remove a scratch. Do it crosswise and try to get a feel for it. If you push to hard even very fine sanding paper may create scratches to your GG. Crosswise until the scratch is away and then around the tube for the finish.
Knowing this - you should protect your engraving, especially if they are shallow as you said. Use a piece of tape to cover them.
When I started sanding (on a very worn out device) I used like 800 paper and thought the result was fine. But you will see a lot of tiny scratches in the right light. The really bad thing is that when you start using finer paper you will still see these scratches, just finer and finer...
If you look for a mirror finish then the buffing wheels are the way to go. Big wheels are perfect as they allow you to polish the piece at once but usually we don't have access to these so we use a dremel like tool. Here we only have tiny wheels and while you do the work you might see transitions (excuse my english) so you have to connect these "marks". Anyways, buff only in one direction - always around the tube. Select your compound and wheel depending on your mission (remove scratches/mirror finish). I guess there are better experts here to explain this to you, just a little motivation:
Knowing this - you should protect your engraving, especially if they are shallow as you said. Use a piece of tape to cover them.
When I started sanding (on a very worn out device) I used like 800 paper and thought the result was fine. But you will see a lot of tiny scratches in the right light. The really bad thing is that when you start using finer paper you will still see these scratches, just finer and finer...
If you look for a mirror finish then the buffing wheels are the way to go. Big wheels are perfect as they allow you to polish the piece at once but usually we don't have access to these so we use a dremel like tool. Here we only have tiny wheels and while you do the work you might see transitions (excuse my english) so you have to connect these "marks". Anyways, buff only in one direction - always around the tube. Select your compound and wheel depending on your mission (remove scratches/mirror finish). I guess there are better experts here to explain this to you, just a little motivation:
Just used the 3M polishing papers, they're great! I see what you mean about it not being a perfect mirror finish but it's good for a quick cleaning. I just did my brass button and venting cap as they were pretty dark and tarnished, now they're nice and clean and shiny.
Nice pictures manni! I do have a dremel tool so I will have to get some buffing wheels at some point. For now, though, these papers are great! I'll have to use them to get the tiny scratches out of all my pieces, and for quickly cleaning contacts.
Thanks for the tips manni
Nice pictures manni! I do have a dremel tool so I will have to get some buffing wheels at some point. For now, though, these papers are great! I'll have to use them to get the tiny scratches out of all my pieces, and for quickly cleaning contacts.
Thanks for the tips manni
Ok guys, some questions regarding brass parts.
1) How often do you guys clean or polish your brass parts (contacts and outside pieces)
2) is there anyway to keep the brass form turning this dull brown color so fast?? My Brass button and venting cap were nice and shiny last week when I used my 3M paper but they are now dull and brown again.
3) GGTS Control Ring - how do you guys polish or clean these since they have all those grooves?
4) Will buffing wheels help maintain longevity of the brass? Maybe it's all these little tiny scratches from the very fine 3M polishing papers.. dirt getting into it them and whatnot?
I just got a bunch of brass parts from Greece so I am mixing and matching SS and Brass to make up 2 GGTS's (well... one Stealth and one GGTS... I still need a full GGTS connector and collection tank for another GGTS) and I'd like to keep the brass as shiny as possible. I don't mind cleaning it down quickly every week with 3M polishing papers, but is there anything else I can do?
Thanks!!
1) How often do you guys clean or polish your brass parts (contacts and outside pieces)
2) is there anyway to keep the brass form turning this dull brown color so fast?? My Brass button and venting cap were nice and shiny last week when I used my 3M paper but they are now dull and brown again.
3) GGTS Control Ring - how do you guys polish or clean these since they have all those grooves?
4) Will buffing wheels help maintain longevity of the brass? Maybe it's all these little tiny scratches from the very fine 3M polishing papers.. dirt getting into it them and whatnot?
I just got a bunch of brass parts from Greece so I am mixing and matching SS and Brass to make up 2 GGTS's (well... one Stealth and one GGTS... I still need a full GGTS connector and collection tank for another GGTS) and I'd like to keep the brass as shiny as possible. I don't mind cleaning it down quickly every week with 3M polishing papers, but is there anything else I can do?
Thanks!!
I clean mine about once a week with mothers type metal polish and about once a month with a full on buff with a machine. As for the brass i am not sure if there is a wax to put on it to help keep it fresh.
i will say that a bench grinder or buffer as long as the speeds are kept below 4000rpm it will be fine. and they can be had on the cheap from walmart or sears or even a pawn shop. the wheels is where you will want to invest a bit of money get cotton or flannel and for the compounnd get jewlers rouge. most people will do fine with a cotton wheel and blue rouge. it will make a SS GGTS look brand new. just after the buffer wash with soap and water.
i will say that a bench grinder or buffer as long as the speeds are kept below 4000rpm it will be fine. and they can be had on the cheap from walmart or sears or even a pawn shop. the wheels is where you will want to invest a bit of money get cotton or flannel and for the compounnd get jewlers rouge. most people will do fine with a cotton wheel and blue rouge. it will make a SS GGTS look brand new. just after the buffer wash with soap and water.
I actually have this 6" Ryobi bench grinder (3,600 RPM max)... I'll have to find a buffing wheel for it. I have a dremel, too, if there is anything I can use that for? It's one speed, though.. and I think it's 35,000 RPM.. probably too high for anything like this?
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