Hybrid Elite Mod by Rainbow Heaven

[Snapdragon]

I have yet to buy a mod that didn't need a little tweeking...no matter if I spent $50 or $250. All part of the fun. The Elite is underwhelming out of the box, but was very simple to get it to perform.

The V 2 Elite looks really nice. Very similar to the Katana Hybrid that I have used for a couple years now. I'm really like the currant version though...the aluminum is so light compared to SS. I doubt that the anodized finish on the aluminum will hold up very well, but TheJack has it figured out with striping it down to bare metal. I'll do that when I get a couple beauty marks on it.

I agree, a little tweeking can be fun - I modded a Boge Rev from a juice feeder to a bottom feeder with some tubing and silicone washers, and have spring loaded several of my genny tanks to get rid of most of the knurl nuts, drilled out the air holes, drilled out the wick holes, rebuilt top fire buttons for cleaning etc, but that's because I wanted to. Fortunately the devices I've purchased in the $100 - $300 range (see my sig line) have been great right out of the box.

I would expect a $50 mod to be made of aluminum vs SS and the threading maybe not so smooth but frequent misfires and substantial voltage drop that could be prevented on the manufacturers end with an inexpensive piece of brass is different. Like I said, the advice here has been great but not everyone is as comfortable with that stuff as you and I and most have a reasonable expectation that any device they purchase will work as it should.

I don't mean to rant, it's just the more I read here, the more I worry that newer vapers will be frustrated with the 'modding' required to get a decent vape with any of the lower-end devices coming out now. I just think that for such a small fix, the manufacturer could have done better.

Strip it? Not gonna happen. I'm not hard on my devices at all but if it does get scratched His Highness can have it to take to work. He'd probably paint it fluorescent orange to match his safety gear, drip tip and all.

 

[redeyes24321]

Where did you go to source your brass parts?

Ace Hardware.... its a Chicago Screw

 

[Zeroescence]

Let me know if you send it out. I let him know i can send one but cant do it until next friday. i`m broke as a joke till payday.

I sent it out. Thanks man. Pretty soon we might have our colored tanks.

 

[Mickey_Star]

I agree, a little tweeking can be fun - I modded a Boge Rev from a juice feeder to a bottom feeder with some tubing and silicone washers, and have spring loaded several of my genny tanks to get rid of most of the knurl nuts, drilled out the air holes, drilled out the wick holes, rebuilt top fire buttons for cleaning etc, but that's because I wanted to. Fortunately the devices I've purchased in the $100 - $300 range (see my sig line) have been great right out of the box.

I would expect a $50 mod to be made of aluminum vs SS and the threading maybe not so smooth but frequent misfires and substantial voltage drop that could be prevented on the manufacturers end with an inexpensive piece of brass is different. Like I said, the advice here has been great but not everyone is as comfortable with that stuff as you and I and most have a reasonable expectation that any device they purchase will work as it should.

I don't mean to rant, it's just the more I read here, the more I worry that newer vapers will be frustrated with the 'modding' required to get a decent vape with any of the lower-end devices coming out now. I just think that for such a small fix, the manufacturer could have done better.

Strip it? Not gonna happen. I'm not hard on my devices at all but if it does get scratched His Highness can have it to take to work. He'd probably paint it fluorescent orange to match his safety gear, drip tip and all.

I hear you. It seems inherent to clones to have design flaws that would leave users frustrated. Small things that would be easy enough for the manufacturers to remedy before sending them out.

Where are you getting those tiny little springs for your posts?

 

[zipflint]

I'd like to know too. My father was off work today and spent most of the afternoon helping me hunt for these types of things. We hit the two smaller hardware stores and found mostly nothing. Went to an electronics repair place that had loads of interesting testing equipment that was zomg expensive but didn't have much in the way of tiny brass shims and washers and springs and itty-bitty o-rings. And every place I went, I asked about chicago screws and had to explain what they were, heh.

Came up empty handed.

Where are you getting those tiny little springs for your posts?

 

[Snapdragon]

Well, the RSST tanks come with an extra spring and small metal washer that fit most genesis tanks. I picked up a few because they work really well and look awsome on the Roller/Dingo (and I'm assuming the Roller clone) so I had some extras to play with. From what I've heard, they have a similar set up to the Hybrid Elite????

I also picked up a pack of these Kit Springs but am still on the hunt for washers.

 

[CountSmackula]

I use ball point pen springs when I convert my gennys from double nut to spring capture. They come in a variety of lengths, but are easy to cut to the needed length.

 

[zipflint]

Hey now! THAT is smart thinkin'!

I use ball point pen springs when I convert my gennys from double nut to spring capture. They come in a variety of lengths, but are easy to cut to the needed length.

 

[Snapdragon]

I use ball point pen springs when I convert my gennys from double nut to spring capture. They come in a variety of lengths, but are easy to cut to the needed length.

I'm sure you're being careful when you do that. If you don't know what they're made of you sure don't want conductivity issues.

Other options for those who don't choose to mess around with the Hybrid Elite and don't mind the extra bucks is the Kick or Kick 2. Either one can adjust for the voltage drop and are interchangeable with most mech mods. They add a whole lot of other protections too like reverse polarity, shorts, etc.

I think Seigeli are even making clones of those for about half the price.

Kick 2 By Evolv - YouTube RiP Trippers
Evolv Kick v2 - YouTube Todds Reviews

ETS - I use the Kick 1 in my Omega and luv it. I can throw any tank on it and it automatically adjusts to the voltage I like.

 

[CountSmackula]

The conductivity comes from the center post. I've been recycling the little metal tip from old CE4s to use as my SS washer.

 

[rickyk128]

Here is where I got mine. Had to dremel them a bit but worked out good.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=151053059271

If you don't want to order from ebay and want to get them right away and have a tractor supply company by you, you can pic them up in store. The pic looks exactly the same as the ones on ebay but are 1.66 cheaper cause you dont have to pay shipping. Just thought Id put this out there for anyone that doesn't want to wait for shipping.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/weaver-leather-chicago-screw-handy-pack-plain-solid-brass

 

[rickyk128]

I went to tractor supply and picked up these chicago screwes today. They are located in the pet section by the horse tack. On the right is the original 1/2 screw. The one on the left is the on that I have to cut down to get the proper fit so that the switch would screw in all the way and still have a tight fit on the battery. You have to cut down both the female end and the male end of the screw to get it short enough. I did this with my dremel with a cut off wheel to cut both of them down. Also the head of the female end needs a slight trim job on the outer edge to fit tight in the delrin ring and the rounded head needs to be ground flat.


This is the final fit of the trimmed Chicago screw in the switch.


After changing out the original spring with the new modded Chicago screw there is definitely a large increase in performance and it hits so much better.

 

[Aphex13]

This may work with our Elites. It's 1.5mm short though... If not, they'll custom cut tubes to spec. There's a 3 tube minimum. I may place an order with them this weekend.

Mac 350 Tube

 

[TheJack]

murtcepS from Spectrum Tanks - Home is gunna hook us up with some options. hes just waiting on a tank to get specs.

This may work with our Elites. It's 1.5mm short though... If not, they'll custom cut tubes to spec. There's a 3 tube minimum. I may place an order with them this weekend.

Mac 350 Tube

 

[zipflint]

Alright. I give up. My attempts to both acquire the parts and then the tools and skill needed to make said parts work is beyond me. I just spent about an hour fooling with the switch and didn't accomplish anything beyond sore hands and nearly snapping a few things. Props to you guys who have actually got the switch working well and solved the voltage drop problem. I'm done.

I'll wait for a total, screw-in replacement switch. Housing and everything. I can't do this. I'm at my wit's end and I've run out of patience with myself.

 

[CountSmackula]

zipflint - Adding the additional spring from the Sig#19 really boosted my Elite's performance. It took all of 5 seconds.

 

[Mickey_Star]

zipflint what are you have trouble with? I can send you a Chicago Screw that is already fitted. You'd just pop it in and walk away...

 

[Mickey_Star]

CountSmackula where are you adding a spring to get performance? I'm always down for a little performance gain.

 

[Lhartman89]

zipflint what are you have trouble with? I can send you a Chicago Screw that is already fitted. You'd just pop it in and walk away...

Mickey, did you have to grind down the rounded head on the female piece? I went to TSC and picked up the Chicago screws. I fitted one, but I had to grind down the rounded head of the female piece and then grind down the screw and the female threaded part. It is still a little too long as my switch won't screw in all the way.

 

[Mickey_Star]

Mickey, did you have to grind down the rounded head on the female piece? I went to TSC and picked up the Chicago screws. I fitted one, but I had to grind down the rounded head of the female piece and then grind down the screw and the female threaded part. It is still a little too long as my switch won't screw in all the way.

I didn't need to grind the smooth side of the female piece, although you could take a little off there if you need to. I've notice from pictures that some Chicago Screws appear more rounded than others. You might need to flatten the bottom a little to get the screw to seat down in the white Delrin piece. A tiny drop of glue on the side of the bottom brass piece will keep it in place if that is a problem. Not on the bottom...A little more off one end or the other and you should be golden with no gaps.