Does it leak if its on its side? i`m still using the 400 mesh that came with it and i almost have it so i dont get a leak. its very little at a time coming from the top of the wick but i`m not sure if its possible to stop.
Hybrid Elite Mod by Rainbow Heaven
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My hybrid elite does not leak at all on its side with the 3/32 cable and ekowool slip over diaper. Crimp the top of the mesh to keep it from leaking in your case.
Thanks for the chicago screw fix.. Did it and it works great..
What is interesting is I only found in my junk box a aluminum one and the voltage drop I got with a fresh AW and 1.4ohm was .16 to .18 over a few tests.. Aluminum has better conductivity than brass.. but it oxidizes faster and breaks easier than brass or copper...so it is not the preferred choice. I know I have some brass chicago screws.. just have to find them.. meanwhile enjoying my Elite...
Mine currently has a solid wick of #500 mesh that fills the wick hole. IIRC, it was about 72-75mm long. I rolled it as tight as humanly possible, but I ended cutting a couple of mm off the end of the roll so it would fit. Wicks like a monster & doesn't leak a drop. It can stay in the phone pocket on my pants leg while I sit at a desk without issue. I was actually surprised given the open fill & air holes.
1. Has any one found glass tubes for replacement. I broke the quartz that came withit. Ordered what I "thought" would work from IbTanked and they crack during install. .0x mm off.
2. HOW Vdo yuo get the eko over the cut end of a steel wire cable?
3. Can some one tell me why Hot legs happen... I have been doing this a long time and never really knew the cause.
2. HOW Vdo yuo get the eko over the cut end of a steel wire cable?
3. Can some one tell me why Hot legs happen... I have been doing this a long time and never really knew the cause.
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1. Not sure about the tanks yet, but I sent out my tank to spectrum tanks and they have something in the works.
2. I get the ekowool wet and use a dremel to slightly taper the SS cable. I have also rolled tape on the end of the SS cable to where it makes it like a cone and then it goes in with no snag.
3. The hot legs are from the wire pulled tighter in a certain area than others. Hot spots are like micro shorts. Ekowool solves these issues. Just wrap the wire lightly around the ekowool for amazing wicking.
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Its about time i gave the ss rope a try. Been reading about it for a while. Who knew tractor supply had so many vape items! I'm getting me a gallon of PG and some SS rope. I wonder what else they'll have? Think they'll have the nemesis clone? 
Yeah he nailed it, hot legs are a tension issue. Usually it's too tight in that area. Sometimes you can relieve tension with a slight kink to the top leg. Kinda like a Q shape from a birds eye view.
Yeah he nailed it, hot legs are a tension issue. Usually it's too tight in that area. Sometimes you can relieve tension with a slight kink to the top leg. Kinda like a Q shape from a birds eye view.
It it a little bit involved. A few rum and cokes so I feel like typing, lol. Frst, hot spots im general: The areas of the coil with higher resistance get hotter than areas of lower resistance. Any area on the coil shorted to the wick is generally lower resistance (as in shorted) and won't get hot. Hotspots are the areas of the coil not shorted to the wick. You can actually see this happen if you use the pulse method of building a genesis -- as the coil insulates itself from the wick by oxydizing it, you can see each loop that is no longer shorted start to glow. Except ... Heat transfer comes into play. If no areas of the coil are shorted, then areas of coil not efficiently transferring heat to the wick get hotter. If the coil is wound tightly on the wick, that's not the issue. Usually, the cold areas of the coil are shorted and the hot spots are not (unless its a really ugly not wound good coil).
Now on to hot legs. If the coil is shorted to the wick, the legs have higher resistance than the rest of the coil and will be the area to heat up. Once you have resolved shorts to the coil, if you still have hot legs them you have ... Heat transfer issues. Each loop of the coil transfers its heat laterally to the next loop. Hot wire has a higher resistance than cold so the hot areas of the coil will tend to get hotter. Once the distance between the loops exceed about 6 wire diameters, no area heats up a lot faster than the rest so the whole assembly, including the legs heats. Except ... (You guessed it, more thermal transfer) the legs dissipate a lot of their heat to the connection posts. If the legs are short, even though the distance between coil wraps is relatively large, the legs will dissipate heat into the posts and they won't get hot.
So ... To avoid hot legs: eliminate any coil short circuits to the wick, keep legs short, wrap coils so each loop is within at most 3 to 6 wire diameters apart -- i.e. keep the loops close to each other.
This is also why closely stacked coils (misnamed "microcoils") work the way they do. Each loop transfers its heat laterally and as it heats its resistance increases slightly -- enough to heat from center out and avoid hot legs. It also behaves more like a monolithic heater -- like one big heater even though its made of individual small loops.
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Yea, what was said about the hot legs is usually right. Either they are too tight or too loose. Try adjusting them until they go away. I always like starting with the mesh not oxidized and then pulse until it glows evenly to oxidize it. It's really hard to do with anything higher than 28 gauge as if it shorts it will blow the coil in that spot. I did this a few times trying to set up a SS rope/mesh wick with 30 gauge and 32 gauge. Also using a battery that is down to about 3.8-3.7 volts is better when pulsing a coil to oxidize the wick. It will keep the coil from glowing as hot and possibly blowing the coil like I said above. Hope this helps some.
Now that I've done the Chicago screw fix for the switch (big thanks to Mickey for the extra help!) it is now one of my favorite devices. Seriously, it makes a world of difference.
Just a quick iPhone photo. Now that it works PROPERLY, I feel like showin' it some love.
For everyone that has never used the 500 mesh its a big difference for the good but if your running 400 i wouldnt run out and get this unless your getting dry hits. i`m kinds bummin that i switched over. now i`m dealing with hot legs. it was running perfect then i had to go and mess it up.
Has anyone ever had Magnets in a button? not to make contact but to eliminate the spring. i pulled my button apart again took a few measurements and the outer diameter of where the spring sits is 9.75mm and the center post is 4.5mm. its not much room to play with in there so i`m thinking if the magnets were 1mm each equaling 2mm it should be more then enough room to ditch that spring and put magnets in. i did a little more digging and found them. for the ID its .5 bigger and the OD is .25 bigger so the od of the magnets would have to lightly be sanded to fit. i think this is the ticket.
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A big THANK YOU to Mickey-Star for the Chicago screw fix and TheJack the 3 wrap is great you guy's post have help to form a darn good mod. And I agree ZipFlint I have not put this thing down, my Provari has never sit this long LOL..
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