Sorry about the pic sizes......
I have been using this setup for a few months now and it aint pretty but it works good for me... so I figured I would put it up here. Some of you may have seen it already but it may help (or confuse) some others here also. Its not for everybody for sure...especially if you switch flavors a lot...but switching to another atty only takes a minute anyway. It holds about 2.6ml. It can be made as long or short as you want. I can take the atty out...clean it with PGA...dry burn the wick or replace it...and throw it back in the mod in about 5 minutes and its good to go for a week or so. It is a simple design that can be altered to the way you want. It can use up to a 28ga coil...any ohm you want...and any wick you want...SS or silica...take yor pick. I wind my coils around a 3/32" bit...and keep the wick thick but not real tight. Also the way I have the reversal of the loop in the middle (in the bottom pics) seems to keep the heat centered in the coil.
The atty consist of a 13mm ID x 15mm OD Pyrex or quartz glass tubing 2.75" long. I have both types and it makes no difference...though I feel better using the more durable quartz tube. I'm using 13ga teflon .074"ID air intake with a 4mm .157" ID pyrex tube mouthpiece that is just right for me. I think the intake tube size is more important as long as the mouthpiece is bigger. You can use a different size to make it airy or tighter...but having the air rushing in at the coil helps the vaporization.
The white food grade silicone for the plugs is the best I have found as far as having absolutely no taste and very tough and tear resistant...and I have tried quite a few brands and types. Anything the right shape can be used to mold them...just make the plugs a little bigger than the ID of the tube. Then I punch half moon cuts in the sides of the divider for the wick and press the brass rods thru and slide it up over the springs. The bottom plug just punch the rods thru to align with the connector. I also made the white sleeve over the mouthpiece with FG silicone...easier on the teeth than the glass tube.
The 1/32 brass rod posts are drilled with a .013" hole...an adventure for sure but if my shaky hands can do it anyone can. I made a jig by drilling a 1/16" brass tube first then slide the rod inside to start the hole. The 1/16" brass tubing center piece pushes the spring down to access the hole for the coil. First I solder the bottom ring...then add the spring and movable tube...compress it and stick a 28ga wire thru the hole to hold it...then put the top part on pressed down tight against the wire and solder that on using a leadfree solder. You could do it without the top piece...but I use it to have more surface contact with the coil and to absorb heat away from the sliding tube and spring. Nitinol springs work very well and can be cut to any length...it come in 21" lengths and will make a lot of attys.. or if your kid has braces you can get some free when they are sleeping lol. Use at least 3/8" or so...and slide the silicone and divider/support over them to keep the cleaner. To change coils I use pointed tweezers and slide it in between the contact points until its free...pull out the old coil and in with the new...same for the other post.
I run the wick thru the coil about 1/3 of the way...then run a piece of wire folded back thru and grab another bite of the 2/3 side and pull a loop of that thru to make it look like its a bow....the added bulk hanging there replenishes the coil faster so you dont have to wait for it to wick from the tank.
The + wires run down thru two drilled holes in the web of the mod between the batt and atty...then the holes in the bottom are sealed up.
This is about a month with no cleaning at all...I usually clean the atty every week though...and wipe the mouthpiece with PGA daily.
Links for the materials...
Glass tubing: National Scientific Company - Quartz Tube, Tubing & Rod
Food Grade silicone: you could go in with someone and split a 1/2 gal 4 ways and have plenty to work with... AeroMarine Food Grade Silicone MoldMaking Rubber
Wick: MSC Item Detail
Brass rod & tubing: K&S Solid Brass Rod 1/32" (25) K+S1602 - eBay (item 160586158825 end time Sep-06-11 07:49:04 PDT)
Nitinol retention spring: # 5140 .014 x .036ID $22.95 each DCA - The Orthodontic Buyers Guide - Archwire - NITI Open Coil Springs
Teflon tubing:MSC Item Detail
Mosfet & 3A main slide switch: Digi-Key - IRLU3114ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRLU3114ZPBF)
Atty connector (blue)...2-Position PC Board Terminals - RadioShack.com
Tact switch...any will work...or use a 3A switch and do away with the mosfet completely.
This can be set up in a regular box mod being sure to make a divider to insulate the battery from heat of the atty...but if you want to get in to the expense of molding urethane resins and siilicone molds..below are some links and pics of how I did it. You can also go here to see my earlier casting adventures..it wasnt pretty. LOL
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/110368-cast-resin-juicer.html
Getting the hinge and magnets embedded takes the most time...I magnets to act both as a guide pin and to hold it closed. Also..since the wires coming down from the switch thru the drilled holes then out the cutout at the bottom..its a PITA soldering them to the board as I can only leave enough wire to get it to the board in position as there is no where for excess wire. Same for the top...the main pos wire runs straight down from the main switch into the drilled hole so I had to solder everything in place at the top..guide the wire down and set everything in place at the same time...then I poured the resin around it to set it. No extra space in this thing at all. The white stuff around the switches and connector is the same resin used to make the box but with no color added. I use it instead of epoxy or glue as it bonds to the mod best...it foams up when not very thick but it makes for a solid mounting and is easy to carve away the excess when its almost cured.
I also want to make it an all magnetic enclosure as the hinge is really a pain cutting a .040" wide groove .2" deep and 1.5" long in both halves that have only a wall thickness of about .1" to begin with. The hinges are from glasses case.
Alumilite - Products - Dyes - Fillers - Synthetic Clay
AeroMarine Products - Casting Resin
The brown parts are the Sculpey clay that was baked and shaped to make the first molds. The yellow is the silicone mold.
Complaints and negative comments are welcome..please click here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/sandbox/
I have been using this setup for a few months now and it aint pretty but it works good for me... so I figured I would put it up here. Some of you may have seen it already but it may help (or confuse) some others here also. Its not for everybody for sure...especially if you switch flavors a lot...but switching to another atty only takes a minute anyway. It holds about 2.6ml. It can be made as long or short as you want. I can take the atty out...clean it with PGA...dry burn the wick or replace it...and throw it back in the mod in about 5 minutes and its good to go for a week or so. It is a simple design that can be altered to the way you want. It can use up to a 28ga coil...any ohm you want...and any wick you want...SS or silica...take yor pick. I wind my coils around a 3/32" bit...and keep the wick thick but not real tight. Also the way I have the reversal of the loop in the middle (in the bottom pics) seems to keep the heat centered in the coil.
The atty consist of a 13mm ID x 15mm OD Pyrex or quartz glass tubing 2.75" long. I have both types and it makes no difference...though I feel better using the more durable quartz tube. I'm using 13ga teflon .074"ID air intake with a 4mm .157" ID pyrex tube mouthpiece that is just right for me. I think the intake tube size is more important as long as the mouthpiece is bigger. You can use a different size to make it airy or tighter...but having the air rushing in at the coil helps the vaporization.
The white food grade silicone for the plugs is the best I have found as far as having absolutely no taste and very tough and tear resistant...and I have tried quite a few brands and types. Anything the right shape can be used to mold them...just make the plugs a little bigger than the ID of the tube. Then I punch half moon cuts in the sides of the divider for the wick and press the brass rods thru and slide it up over the springs. The bottom plug just punch the rods thru to align with the connector. I also made the white sleeve over the mouthpiece with FG silicone...easier on the teeth than the glass tube.
The 1/32 brass rod posts are drilled with a .013" hole...an adventure for sure but if my shaky hands can do it anyone can. I made a jig by drilling a 1/16" brass tube first then slide the rod inside to start the hole. The 1/16" brass tubing center piece pushes the spring down to access the hole for the coil. First I solder the bottom ring...then add the spring and movable tube...compress it and stick a 28ga wire thru the hole to hold it...then put the top part on pressed down tight against the wire and solder that on using a leadfree solder. You could do it without the top piece...but I use it to have more surface contact with the coil and to absorb heat away from the sliding tube and spring. Nitinol springs work very well and can be cut to any length...it come in 21" lengths and will make a lot of attys.. or if your kid has braces you can get some free when they are sleeping lol. Use at least 3/8" or so...and slide the silicone and divider/support over them to keep the cleaner. To change coils I use pointed tweezers and slide it in between the contact points until its free...pull out the old coil and in with the new...same for the other post.
I run the wick thru the coil about 1/3 of the way...then run a piece of wire folded back thru and grab another bite of the 2/3 side and pull a loop of that thru to make it look like its a bow....the added bulk hanging there replenishes the coil faster so you dont have to wait for it to wick from the tank.
The + wires run down thru two drilled holes in the web of the mod between the batt and atty...then the holes in the bottom are sealed up.
This is about a month with no cleaning at all...I usually clean the atty every week though...and wipe the mouthpiece with PGA daily.
Links for the materials...
Glass tubing: National Scientific Company - Quartz Tube, Tubing & Rod
Food Grade silicone: you could go in with someone and split a 1/2 gal 4 ways and have plenty to work with... AeroMarine Food Grade Silicone MoldMaking Rubber
Wick: MSC Item Detail
Brass rod & tubing: K&S Solid Brass Rod 1/32" (25) K+S1602 - eBay (item 160586158825 end time Sep-06-11 07:49:04 PDT)
Nitinol retention spring: # 5140 .014 x .036ID $22.95 each DCA - The Orthodontic Buyers Guide - Archwire - NITI Open Coil Springs
Teflon tubing:MSC Item Detail
Mosfet & 3A main slide switch: Digi-Key - IRLU3114ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRLU3114ZPBF)
Atty connector (blue)...2-Position PC Board Terminals - RadioShack.com
Tact switch...any will work...or use a 3A switch and do away with the mosfet completely.
This can be set up in a regular box mod being sure to make a divider to insulate the battery from heat of the atty...but if you want to get in to the expense of molding urethane resins and siilicone molds..below are some links and pics of how I did it. You can also go here to see my earlier casting adventures..it wasnt pretty. LOL
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/110368-cast-resin-juicer.html
Getting the hinge and magnets embedded takes the most time...I magnets to act both as a guide pin and to hold it closed. Also..since the wires coming down from the switch thru the drilled holes then out the cutout at the bottom..its a PITA soldering them to the board as I can only leave enough wire to get it to the board in position as there is no where for excess wire. Same for the top...the main pos wire runs straight down from the main switch into the drilled hole so I had to solder everything in place at the top..guide the wire down and set everything in place at the same time...then I poured the resin around it to set it. No extra space in this thing at all. The white stuff around the switches and connector is the same resin used to make the box but with no color added. I use it instead of epoxy or glue as it bonds to the mod best...it foams up when not very thick but it makes for a solid mounting and is easy to carve away the excess when its almost cured.
I also want to make it an all magnetic enclosure as the hinge is really a pain cutting a .040" wide groove .2" deep and 1.5" long in both halves that have only a wall thickness of about .1" to begin with. The hinges are from glasses case.
Alumilite - Products - Dyes - Fillers - Synthetic Clay
AeroMarine Products - Casting Resin
The brown parts are the Sculpey clay that was baked and shaped to make the first molds. The yellow is the silicone mold.
Complaints and negative comments are welcome..please click here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/sandbox/
