I did it!! I got it in and everything!!!

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Hello ECF! This is my first post outside of the new members area, I'd like to take this line to say hello to you all and to thank you for all the information and advice you've provided on your lovely forums that have helped this newbie lurker-turned-member along.

With that being said I'll cut to the chase and let you all know that I managed to recoil and rewick my iclear 16s. Both coils fire and provide a pretty nice vape. I figured this would be juicy info for iclear owners since I have yet to come across any posts in or outside of ECF documenting a successful iclear 16 rebuild. If anybody, even one person, is interested in how I did it I'll post my best attempt at a tutorial. If this has already been done and isn't any news to anybody do let me know so that I can stop making myself look foolish before I go much further :D

Obviously I'm pretty proud of myself, but I'm well aware of how much experience the advanced users on this forum alone have with rebuilding coils so I'm almost expecting somebody to tell me that this is old news. In any case, it was a satisfying project. I also rebuilt a protank 2 atty with dual coils and I have some questions about it if anybody wants to go down the route of that discussion.
 
Well I'm using an itaste vv 3.0 and I've heard that I shouldn't trust the voltage, wattage, and resistance readings given by devices made in china... but it's telling me that the dual coil build in my protank is reading ~1.2 ohms, which I think is a pretty solid resistance. Running it at 7.5-8.0 watts is giving me a good vape, but I've seen people take their low resistance builds to 14 watts and over - in particular, I was watching some youtube videos by RiP Trippers and I followed along with some of his coiling tutorials for the PT2. Using the exact same tank and coil build as him I just can't get the same vape at the high wattage that he uses. From where I'm standing it seems that the point of low resistance builds is to use less wattage to get a warm vape, and thus conserve battery life. Are there any other advantages to low resistance coil builds such as increased vapor output and flavor? And as for my dual coil build, I know that the resistance reading is so low because the load is spread across two coils so each coil actually has a higher resistance (about ~2.1 ohms?) but together they will register at 1.2. I'm wondering if I should be vaping at a high wattage that is suitable for the higher resistance of each individual coil, or am I correct to treat them as one single coil for the purpose of resistance and wattage and to conclude that my sweet spot is at ~8.0 watts with this dual coil setup? And why do people get into sub ohm vaping? While I'm at it, what do the acronyms RDA and RBA stand for? (I couldn't find anything explaining RDA and RBA, just stuff documenting how awesome they are)

Thank you for the swift reply!
 
Humphrey, I'll do this tutorial just for you. However, it'll be a long and arduous journey for the both of us and I don't know if I can have it up any time before 4AM this morning, or around noon when I wake up tomorrow.

Also, before you get your hopes up I should tell you that it was maddening to get both coils into the bloody iclear and I would recommend just buying replacement heads unless you want to recoil the thing just for the sake of having recoiled an iclear. Rewicking them is a breeze though, so if you really just want to swap the silica wicks for organic cotton that much is certainly doable in the span of this short night.

But I'll definitely do the tutorial, bet on that. In fact, I'll start right now.
 

HumphreyBogart11490

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Well I'm using an itaste vv 3.0 and I've heard that I shouldn't trust the voltage, wattage, and resistance readings given by devices made in china... but it's telling me that the dual coil build in my protank is reading ~1.2 ohms, which I think is a pretty solid resistance. Running it at 7.5-8.0 watts is giving me a good vape, but I've seen people take their low resistance builds to 14 watts and over - in particular, I was watching some youtube videos by RiP Trippers and I followed along with some of his coiling tutorials for the PT2. Using the exact same tank and coil build as him I just can't get the same vape at the high wattage that he uses. From where I'm standing it seems that the point of low resistance builds is to use less wattage to get a warm vape, and thus conserve battery life. Are there any other advantages to low resistance coil builds such as increased vapor output and flavor? And as for my dual coil build, I know that the resistance reading is so low because the load is spread across two coils so each coil actually has a higher resistance (about ~2.1 ohms?) but together they will register at 1.2. I'm wondering if I should be vaping at a high wattage that is suitable for the higher resistance of each individual coil, or am I correct to treat them as one single coil for the purpose of resistance and wattage and to conclude that my sweet spot is at ~8.0 watts with this dual coil setup? And why do people get into sub ohm vaping? While I'm at it, what do the acronyms RDA and RBA stand for? (I couldn't find anything explaining RDA and RBA, just stuff documenting how awesome they are)

Thank you for the swift reply!

i find my sweet spot for anything above 1.4 ohms up to 2.4 ohms is between 7.5 and 9

also RDA is a rebuildable dripping atomizer
 
how did you rewick them? just pull the silica, dry burn, then insert rolled organic cotton and pull through?

Yep. In fact, I forgot to dry burn because I was too excited about rebuilding it but dry burning is very good. I just rip a long piece of cotton out of some cotton balls I have in my bathroom and I twist it so that it's a pretty even thickness all the way through except at one end. I always keep one end twisted real tight and thin for the sake of keeping it rigid and small to thread it through the coil. This is very important here as you know how delicately the iclear 16 coils sit in the atty. To get the wick all the way through without disturbing the coil I twist the wick as I gently push it through the coil. I basically screw the wick into the coil.
 

HumphreyBogart11490

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RDA -> Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (you directly drip e-liquid on the wick/coil, it only holds a few drops at a time, silica wick is mainly used on these) examples are Igo-l, phoenix, nimbus, v5 etc.


RBA -> Rebuildable Atomizer (these ones have a tank that holds e-liquid and are mainly used with vertical stainless steel mesh wick) examples are Cobra, did, ZAP, AGA-T, Ody, Ithaca, RSST, etc.


found this just by googling
 

ScottP

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RDA -> Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (you directly drip e-liquid on the wick/coil, it only holds a few drops at a time, silica wick is mainly used on these) examples are Igo-l, phoenix, nimbus, v5 etc.


RBA -> Rebuildable Atomizer (these ones have a tank that holds e-liquid and are mainly used with vertical stainless steel mesh wick) examples are Cobra, did, ZAP, AGA-T, Ody, Ithaca, RSST, etc.


found this just by googling

Those definitions are correct but the rest of it is out of date. For RDA's I would say most now use organic cotton instead of silica. For the RBA's there are now numerous bottom coil versions that do not use vertical wicks, in those many people use either cotton or silica.
 
Sweet sizzling satan! I'm sorry Humphrey, but I'm way too tired to keep going. I'll have to finish and post the tutorial tomorrow after the super bowl but for now I can use text to explain how to install new coils into the iclears. When you take out the iclear attys and unscrew them from the base you notice how there is a long chimney for the coils on one end and on the bottom there is a pin which makes contact with the base. When you take out the old coils and look down the chimney you'll see that there is a rubber fitting in there. That fitting used to keep the short legs of the coils up against the side of the chimney. The long leg of the coils goes through the open center of that fitting. Now if you look at the bottom end of the atty you'll see the pin and how it fits into its own rubber fitting. This is a different fitting. Use some tweezers or a small thin flat-head screwdriver to pry the pin up and out. Pull the rubber fitting out. Now you'll see that there is a metal inner ring which separates the bottom of the atty from the chimney. It also separates the rubber fitting you just took out from the one in the chimney. You'll want to take the other rubber fitting out as well by whatever means you see fit. I just push it through the now-open bottom of the atty using a toothpick. At this point you have the atty, two rubber fittings, and the pin. The trick is to get the short legs of your new coils between the chimney wall and the rubber fitting which slides into the chimney and then to push it all down into place without the rubber fitting flipping sideways inside the chimney. Also, the short legs of the coils have to be pre-cut to the proper length which will allow them to go down only so far until the short leg hits the metal inner ring between the chimney and the bottom of the atty. This will also keep the coil level with the bottom of the slots in the chimney through which the wicks go. The long legs of the coils go through the center of the rubber fitting and those legs can be as long as you want, as you'll be twisting and breaking them off later. When you get the two coils and the chimney rubber fitting in place you can slide the rubber fitting which went into the bottom of the atty over the long legs of the coils, which should just be hanging through the atty at this point. Get the rubber fitting in there and now you're ready for the breathtakingly easy final steps. With the long legs of the coils hanging through the centers of the rubber fittings you want to push the pin into the bottom of the atty, sandwiching the long coil legs between the pin and the rubber fitting it goes into. Now you'll have those legs sticking out of the bottom of the atty. Just bend or twist them until the excess comes off and you're done. I know this description is not enough but I hope it can help you get the idea of the rebuild if you decide to go for it. I'll still finish and post the picture tutorial but not until tomorrow. For now, I must pass out.
 

HumphreyBogart11490

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edyle

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Well I'm using an itaste vv 3.0 and I've heard that I shouldn't trust the voltage, wattage, and resistance readings given by devices made in china... but it's telling me that the dual coil build in my protank is reading ~1.2 ohms, which I think is a pretty solid resistance. Running it at 7.5-8.0 watts is giving me a good vape, but I've seen people take their low resistance builds to 14 watts and over - in particular, I was watching some youtube videos by RiP Trippers and I followed along with some of his coiling tutorials for the PT2. Using the exact same tank and coil build as him I just can't get the same vape at the high wattage that he uses. From where I'm standing it seems that the point of low resistance builds is to use less wattage to get a warm vape, and thus conserve battery life. Are there any other advantages to low resistance coil builds such as increased vapor output and flavor? And as for my dual coil build, I know that the resistance reading is so low because the load is spread across two coils so each coil actually has a higher resistance (about ~2.1 ohms?) but together they will register at 1.2. I'm wondering if I should be vaping at a high wattage that is suitable for the higher resistance of each individual coil, or am I correct to treat them as one single coil for the purpose of resistance and wattage and to conclude that my sweet spot is at ~8.0 watts with this dual coil setup? And why do people get into sub ohm vaping? While I'm at it, what do the acronyms RDA and RBA stand for? (I couldn't find anything explaining RDA and RBA, just stuff documenting how awesome they are)

Thank you for the swift reply!

Are there any other advantages to low resistance coil builds such as increased vapor output and flavor?
Low resistance means you get more power (or temperature) at low voltage.

I'm wondering if I should be vaping at a high wattage that is suitable for the higher resistance of each individual coil, or am I correct to treat them as one single coil for the purpose of resistance and wattage and to conclude that my sweet spot is at ~8.0 watts with this dual coil setup?
For the purpose of resistance, it does not matter how many coils you have inside the atomizer, the overall resistance is what is important.
So in your case your resistance is about 1.2 ohm, your wattage is about 8 watts, your current is sqrt(8/1.2)= 2.6 amps. Your current is important; you want to be in a safe range of current.

For the purpose of wattage, you are using 8 watts on 2 coils, so that means each coil is burning 4 watts.
If you are accustomed vaping 4 watts on a single coil with a particular eliquid, you should be able to vape 4 watts on each coil for a total of 8 watts with the same liquid on the dual coil; you'll get twice as much fog, and use up eliquid twice as fast.

why do people get into sub ohm vaping?
To push more power though the coil using low voltage.

While I'm at it, what do the acronyms RDA and RBA stand for?
RDA means Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer; there's not tank to hold your eliquid; you drip a little liquid on the atomizer and vape it.
RBA means Rebuildable Atomizer; usually refers to a system with a tank, and there are screws for you to tie down the ends of your coil when you rebuild the coil. Also called RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer.
 

edyle

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Humphrey, I'll do this tutorial just for you. However, it'll be a long and arduous journey for the both of us and I don't know if I can have it up any time before 4AM this morning, or around noon when I wake up tomorrow.

Also, before you get your hopes up I should tell you that it was maddening to get both coils into the bloody iclear and I would recommend just buying replacement heads unless you want to recoil the thing just for the sake of having recoiled an iclear. Rewicking them is a breeze though, so if you really just want to swap the silica wicks for organic cotton that much is certainly doable in the span of this short night.

But I'll definitely do the tutorial, bet on that. In fact, I'll start right now.

You don't HAVE TO put back two coils; you could just put one coil; lots of tanks use 1 coil; you don't have to put two; it will work fine. Performance will not be the same as with two coils that's all.
 
You don't HAVE TO put back two coils; you could just put one coil; lots of tanks use 1 coil; you don't have to put two; it will work fine. Performance will not be the same as with two coils that's all.

Yeah, that's what I did when I first took a crack at it. Honestly, I preferred the single coil rebuild to the dual coil at first vape. I'll have some pictures up on the morrow.
 
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