these bottom coil tanks perform in a way which is dependent on the air pressure inside the tank.
Performance is likely to vary between a near full tank compared to a near empty tank.
I love my Subox Mini but I need help!
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these bottom coil tanks perform in a way which is dependent on the air pressure inside the tank.
Performance is likely to vary between a near full tank compared to a near empty tank.
My Arctic tank does not do that and I can run the tank completely empty and it hits fine. I just set my brother up with the subbox mini kit and he doesn't have these problems. At least I don't think he does but I will ask him about it.
OP: Try thinning out your juice and then prime a coil and let it set for awhile. Then let us know if it helped.
OP: Try thinning out your juice and then prime a coil and let it set for awhile. Then let us know if it helped.
To the best of my knowledge quality sub-ohm coils are marked with the power range they are most effective at ie. Kanger occ 0.5 kanthal is marked 10w - 30w. Most sub-ohm coils (less than 1 ohm)are marked this way. Coils above 1 ohm are not designed to use a lot of power as shown on one of many safe vaping charts (green is the safe zone for the ohms of your coil) General Safe Vaping Power | Voltage | Resistance | Ohm Chart Now if you look at a sub-ohm chart Sub Ohm Vaping Chart you can see a significant difference in the power range that you can use. In my experience pulling coils apart, coils above 1 ohm use very thin wire and sub-ohm coils use a thicker wire to handle the power. using too much power on a 1.5 coils will make the vape too hot and burn your wicking material. Ohm law basic
I have the same setup and the pre-built coils worked fine when I was using them. However I never went above 70 VG. That is most likely the problem. The wick is packed pretty tight in the pre-built ones and isn't flaired out like it is when you build your own. Try using the RBA and see how that works for you. I haven't had any issues with it, or try a lower VG juice and see if you get the same result.
^^ Exactly and @edyle and myself have explained the coil diameter factor to him........... However, 8 watts seems a bit low to me.
I had an o ring come off an OCC and get stuck on the next coil I put in the other day and I burned through 2 coils trying to figure it out and didnt find it there in the threading down to the air control piece until the third coil. Hope you get it working
I think you may have answered your own questionIf you are getting dry hits then your system is not getting juiced properly....... If you burn those type of wicks in the slightest degree then they are wrecked and you can't get rid of the taste. You may be burning them right away when you start using them. ... I don't have the tank you are using but I use a similar one. I have dissected many of those coils and rebuilt a lot of them as well. They may be using a smaller diameter of wire for the higher resistance coils............ So, make sure you prime the heck out of those coils before you attempt to use them and let them sit for awhile before using them. Then start using them at low power and slowly work your power up.
Ok I think you or I am missing something. I understand that the wire runs at higher power, that's why I don't understand how people aren't absolutely FRYING their juice running it at 25 watts when I can barely run mine at 8 watts with 3x the resistance. Does it have to do with the thicker wire having more surface area? If I am having issues running so much less power, I dont know how people can be successful with the same equipment running it so much hotter than I am.
I guess my problem must be the juice is too thick but I ran 70/30 vg/pg juice with the nautilus and never had any of these issues.
Some people didnt read my original post very well. I am using 1.5ohm coils at 7-8 watts. the subox says thats 3.0-3.2 volts. I am not running the wire too hot. I am also not sub ohming so I dont understand how any of this applies to me:
wtayo2 said: ↑
To the best of my knowledge quality sub-ohm coils are marked with the power range they are most effective at ie. Kanger occ 0.5 kanthal is marked 10w - 30w. Most sub-ohm coils (less than 1 ohm)are marked this way. Coils above 1 ohm are not designed to use a lot of power as shown on one of many safe vaping charts (green is the safe zone for the ohms of your coil) General Safe Vaping Power | Voltage | Resistance | Ohm Chart Now if you look at a sub-ohm chart Sub Ohm Vaping Chart you can see a significant difference in the power range that you can use. In my experience pulling coils apart, coils above 1 ohm use very thin wire and sub-ohm coils use a thicker wire to handle the power. using too much power on a 1.5 coils will make the vape too hot and burn your wicking material. Ohm law basic
wtayo2 said: ↑
To the best of my knowledge quality sub-ohm coils are marked with the power range they are most effective at ie. Kanger occ 0.5 kanthal is marked 10w - 30w. Most sub-ohm coils (less than 1 ohm)are marked this way. Coils above 1 ohm are not designed to use a lot of power as shown on one of many safe vaping charts (green is the safe zone for the ohms of your coil) General Safe Vaping Power | Voltage | Resistance | Ohm Chart Now if you look at a sub-ohm chart Sub Ohm Vaping Chart you can see a significant difference in the power range that you can use. In my experience pulling coils apart, coils above 1 ohm use very thin wire and sub-ohm coils use a thicker wire to handle the power. using too much power on a 1.5 coils will make the vape too hot and burn your wicking material. Ohm law basic
I read your post very well and I also understand it very well .... I explained that the juice is not transferring to your wick properly for some reason. YES, your tank should be working better at higher wattage's than just 8 watts, even with the higher resistance coils. You should easily be able to hit it at 30+ watts. This indicates that you have wicking issues. Why you have wicking issues, I do not know but that's what we are attempting to figure out here.
My above comment wasnt directed at you Axiom, moreso the person that I quoted below my comment. I appreciate your help and I agree it is a wicking issue but I dont know why I am having it with 4 different coils and at every airflow setting
My above comment wasnt directed at you Axiom, moreso the person that I quoted below my comment. I appreciate your help and I agree it is a wicking issue but I dont know why I am having it with 4 different coils and at every airflow setting
No worries brother, just trying to help you .... It is a very "weird" problem to say the least.... I would suggest to inspect all o-rings and other things very closely. Also thin out your juice if you haven't done so already. I know plenty of folks who have ZERO problems with those higher resistance coils in that particular tank and so it seems logical that it is more than likely the juice somehow.
Firstly, you shouldn't be vaping the .5Ω coil at 8 watts, you should be around 35 watts with the airflow wide open, that is how you sub-ohm. If you want to vape at lower watts you should be using the higher ohm coils. I don't believe the KBox mini has step down, which means you will never get the true wattage if you are asking the device to deliver less than 4.2v. At 8 watts you are asking the device to deliver 2v to a .5Ω coil, some devices can do this (correctly), others use PWM (pulse width modulation).
PWM attempts to allow you to vape below 4.2v by pulsing the 4.2v, so while you are set at 8 watts on a .5Ω coil, you are actually vaping at 35 watts pulsed. It can still work, but most people vaping at 8 watts are using a tighter airflow, which will not work well even with the power being pulsed.
Use Stem Engine to calculate where the sweet spot will be, until you get a good grasp on your own, at the very least know where you should be based off the device you are using and the coil. Juice viscosity can also come into play, but it shouldn't in you case since you said you are using 50/50.
Edit: Also, never take what China states as the "vape range" to heart, they are notorious for putting out incorrect information...even Kanger.
PWM attempts to allow you to vape below 4.2v by pulsing the 4.2v, so while you are set at 8 watts on a .5Ω coil, you are actually vaping at 35 watts pulsed. It can still work, but most people vaping at 8 watts are using a tighter airflow, which will not work well even with the power being pulsed.
Use Stem Engine to calculate where the sweet spot will be, until you get a good grasp on your own, at the very least know where you should be based off the device you are using and the coil. Juice viscosity can also come into play, but it shouldn't in you case since you said you are using 50/50.
Edit: Also, never take what China states as the "vape range" to heart, they are notorious for putting out incorrect information...even Kanger.
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I have said multiple times that I am vaping at 1.5 ohms not .5ohms
1.5ohms at 7-8 watts
ONE POINT FIVE OHMS lol
it's quite simple actually, 75%vg is at the extreme high end of what those coils will handle. it's just too thick.
Same rules still apply. Even at 1.5Ω you are asking the device to deliver 3.6v, what you are actually doing is vaping at about 12 watts in PWM. Using a device without step down, you want to be delivering at or above 4.2v. So either raise the watts (and probably the airflow), or use he RBA to build a 2.2Ω coil.
I've been using the kbox mini and subtank mini every day since I got it, a little over a month ago. I'm strictly using the 1.2 and 1.5 coils and vaping between 15 - 17 watts. I'm pretty sure some of the juice I use is greater than 50/50 vg but some of them don't give you that info. Are you strictly using one particular juice and having this issue? I haven't burnt the wick yet and the coils are lasting me over a week, easy. Even at 25 watts it just tastes a little burnt. Try different juice I guess.
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