This thing just leaks like crazy... I don't have any wick that I could add to it, as I have seen might help. And if I have to make another online purchase, honestly I think I would rather just buy another tank and scrap this thing. I really DO want it to work!! The first 2 days I had it, I thought the vape was great and I kind of liked the "airy" draw that some complain about. I had minimal leakage then, but the metallic taste was killing me!!! I did a vinegar soak and then a boil and the metallic taste is now gone, but I can't stop the leaking!!! Tried 3 different heads so far (all Kanger) and I tried filling to various different levels, all with the same results. Looks like my final option to try to save this thing might be to cannibalize a clearo for the wick. I would almost rather save the $4.00 clearo and junk the $20 tank...... At least the clearo works right now....
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So that's really it?? This thing was designed so poorly that it will leak that bad?? Did I just buy a tank and 2 packs of replacement heads just so I could take them all apart to make them work? Maybe I should buy 4 more packs of heads and test them all, just so I can get a real idea of the failure rate of these things (30 is the minimum number of samples for a relevant statistical evaluation)...
I'm vaping a 50/50 mix. Not super thick, but not water either. If it's really that bad then maybe they should start calling this thing the "Kanger VG".....
I'm vaping a 50/50 mix. Not super thick, but not water either. If it's really that bad then maybe they should start calling this thing the "Kanger VG".....
Have 8 protanks in my rotation and use 80/20 juice leaking has never been an issue. You might of gotten a borked one.
Hmm. My pro tank has never leaked. Though I don't use it much it is one of the last tanks left in my arsenal. I use 3mm silica wick in mine and rebuild my own. Vaping 30/70 blend so maybe my higher vg is stopping it from leaking
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What can I look for to see if the tank is the problem?? I've tried 3 different heads and they all leaked from (what appeared to be) the positive/center connection. After writing my first rant I was all fired up and sacrificed a clearo.... I basically folded up the entire wick from that thing and jammed it in the Kanger head, trimming the ends to make sure nothing got stuck in the threads. So far no leaks, but also no flavor... I'm going to let it sit for a while, check for leaks, and then start removing pieces of wick until I can find a happy medium between flavor and leaking.
It's just frustrating because I have $6 bottom coil clearos that I've been using for 5+ weeks with MINIMAL leaking. This thing is almost like pouring juice in to a pasta strainer....
Have you inspected the silicone seal on the base? Are you sure the head is screwed in very tight? What voltage are you using?
The only time I have ever seen a leak is if I forget to put the donut on the vent tube, if I haven't screwed the coil head in tight enough or if I accidentally use less than 3mm of wick on the re-build.
The only time I have ever seen a leak is if I forget to put the donut on the vent tube, if I haven't screwed the coil head in tight enough or if I accidentally use less than 3mm of wick on the re-build.
Kanger made the best thing to happen to me. I love the EVOD. LOVE LOVE LOVE it. So of course I didn't think twice before I dropped $20 on a fancy glass and metal piece. Boy do I feel robbed. I have tried switching to evod heads. Using cotton. Just about anything I came across to try and get the experience that others have... In your case it sounds like you got a junk model. I use a 50/50 blend, and even with all my tinkering I haven't caused it to leak. But I have gotten an EVOD that just would not stop dumping half it's tank into my mouth very suddenly and for no reason. I did what you did. Switched parts, Changed Juice, got a different battery, throw more and more money into something that just didn't work. By the time I finally threw it out, I had spent more on that one EVOD than buying 2 new protanks. Which just made me more mad. I'd see if you can find an unsatisfied buyer, who isn't forgiving of airy draws, and who is willing to give, barter, or sell it away. It sounds like you don't mind the model, just the way yours is performing.
I have the Protank also and never had a leaking issue either. However, I do not like the protank because of 2 issues. 1- it's airy, 2- the metalic taste.
My solution so far is the EVOD. However, I just purchased a new tank system that is competing with the protank on all levels. From the few reviews I have read and seen it resolves the airy draw. It also resolves the metalic taste because you can change the metal drip tip to different drip tips which is not an option for the protank
The tank I am referring to is called the PuriTank. 2 places you can buy them, Ikenvapes IKV DBOX Pyrex PuriTank BCG and Dragonflyecig. Both vendors are out of stock currently.
My solution so far is the EVOD. However, I just purchased a new tank system that is competing with the protank on all levels. From the few reviews I have read and seen it resolves the airy draw. It also resolves the metalic taste because you can change the metal drip tip to different drip tips which is not an option for the protank
The tank I am referring to is called the PuriTank. 2 places you can buy them, Ikenvapes IKV DBOX Pyrex PuriTank BCG and Dragonflyecig. Both vendors are out of stock currently.
What battery are you using? What kind of wattage/voltage you set, and what kind of resistance on the head? Yes, I would take them apart and wash/clean, then recoil/rewick. On the protank, I like to use cotton, or ss mesh if you can do it. If not, cotton is my best choice. I would not want to suck on the silica wick if there is another choice.
Well, now I have a leak at the base, where the metal joins the tank.... This thing is getting returned and I don't think I'll be trying another.
It's a fiasco again.. This protank is garbage can not for the life of me get this thing to even touch the performance of my v1 t3. And I know what I'm doing. Ill admit the t3 did not work when I got it and it took lots of modding and work to get it right but it works Awesome. protank i can not get, Leaks and the flavor is not there. Mind you I had one t3 and one coil base that I used for 6 Months and recoiled 30 times. Just filled my t3 - 100x the flavor and great vape. Tried 2 stock and 8 rebuilds on the hotank, still garbage. It's pitiful. I could have made a 5.00 one work better.
Kanger gate ..
Well, flavor is back on my protank and its actually working pretty good. Knock on wood, not sure what exactly was going on but I messed with the coil. Maybe it's part of the learning curve with this...
Well, flavor is back on my protank and its actually working pretty good. Knock on wood, not sure what exactly was going on but I messed with the coil. Maybe it's part of the learning curve with this...
I just don't get some of these posts - I have 2 Protanks and over 10 EVODs (the heads are built pretty much the same and both BCC) and I've never had a leak. Are people overfilling them? When you fill them, don't forget to blow through the center tube to make sure you get any juice out of the center tube. I can't imagine it being a head thing since they are replacing them and it's still happening.
I had ONE problem with my eVics not recognizing the protank and discovered I had overfilled it. I poured a little juice out and it worked.
I had ONE problem with my eVics not recognizing the protank and discovered I had overfilled it. I poured a little juice out and it worked.
I have 4 ProTanks that I have used for about 2.5-3 months, that I have used about 8-10 replacement heads on before I started re-coiling my own which I've done with Silica, SS and cotton, with Ribbon Kanthal, 32 and 28 gauge and haven't had a leak yet. Not saying it couldn't happen, but I think it's relatively uncommon.
P.S. I think my favorite is Silica (I keep coming back to it, effects the flavor less than cotton or SS, at least for me) and a 28 GA Kanthal microcoil at about 1.4 ohm (Ribbon is hard for me to work with in the small area, hard to get a tight wrap)
P.S. I think my favorite is Silica (I keep coming back to it, effects the flavor less than cotton or SS, at least for me) and a 28 GA Kanthal microcoil at about 1.4 ohm (Ribbon is hard for me to work with in the small area, hard to get a tight wrap)
If the tank isn't completely sealed for whatever reason it will leak regardless. Orings or glass glue seal to the metal , or tube to mouthpiece. Any fault and flooding is a problem. Maybe my base oring is sealing properly now. It's not leaking now.
I hadn't heard this before, but it was probably the cause of all my pain.... I found a leak between the glass and metal at the base. It took a while to find because every time it would start to leak at the battery connection, I would drain the tank to save the juice (and mess..). The last time I was so fed up I just stood the tank up on a paper towel. The next day I picked it up and juice leaked out at the glass/metal joint. It was probably there all along, I just never left the juice in long enough for it to reveal itself!
Mscomp, its called manufacturing defects, there is a know bad batch circulating right now. Quality assurance has been an issue with kanger. Any glitch in manufacturing could cause a minor defect in the sealing. Most likely it's between different retooling when they set back up to do another run of these, each batch will/could inherently be different. It's just how it is out of let's say 10,000 there will be a number of defective ones.
My t3 had a seal leak at mouthpiece that made it unusable till I sealed it. In my opinion they needed to have much better seals on the protank all around.
The main way these work is based on a straw type effect. Cover the end it holds liquid, release your thumb liquid runs out of straw.
* Discord, I also prefer silica in bcc. I'm wondering how your running 1.4 ohms w/o burning the grommet. Must be on ego bat.
Chris, I'm glad you found the problem your exactly correct that is the problem. I have seen the apart and its like a glue or double sided tape as described by the poster. If you can seal it either by pulling apart a re-adheasive sealing it or just silicone from the outside or something you should experience the great protank "everyone" talks about.
My t3 had a seal leak at mouthpiece that made it unusable till I sealed it. In my opinion they needed to have much better seals on the protank all around.
The main way these work is based on a straw type effect. Cover the end it holds liquid, release your thumb liquid runs out of straw.
* Discord, I also prefer silica in bcc. I'm wondering how your running 1.4 ohms w/o burning the grommet. Must be on ego bat.
Chris, I'm glad you found the problem your exactly correct that is the problem. I have seen the apart and its like a glue or double sided tape as described by the poster. If you can seal it either by pulling apart a re-adheasive sealing it or just silicone from the outside or something you should experience the great protank "everyone" talks about.
Ya, I'm sure I *could* fix it, but I'm not so sure that I *want* to fix it. The seller already told me they would take it back. If I start messing with it then it's all on me... Like I said, I know I *could* probably fix it, but a few months down the road, who knows what will happen?? Plus if the main component (the tank) has issues, what kind of QC are the coils going through???? I wanted a Protank because I wanted a "fill and vape" type of accessory. If I want to play, then I have an AGA T2. If I wanted a cheaper tank, I would have bought a second iClear30. What I was looking for was a mix between the two, with a glass tank that was impervious to all juices, yet could be switched between falvors or fixed on the fly simply by changing out the coil. The Kanger failed in that respect, so the search continues....
Kind of like the differnce between my MVP and the Sig #8.... One is for quick, reliable, all day vape. The other is for relaxing, sit at home, "enjoy the moment" kind of night. The Protank fit neither bill for me.
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