i think i got a faulty Kayfun lite+ v2

[RadiusNick]

first of all let me say it's not my first kayfun,
I'm already using an authentic one for quit a time,
and bought 2 others to have since that's how i vape.

so i took the new one out of the box and first i noticed the air hole on the bottom was drilled differently,meaning i have to screw the little screw further in order to get the same draw i like.
also it seems i have to screw the center pin more,in order to secure the deck.
so I'm almost positive,it was drilled differently.

in my first use of it i had big leaks from underneath,the liquid didn't even reach the side airflow hole like it used in my previous kayfun when flooded.

i tried all kind of builds,but ended changing all the insulators, o-rings, middle tank,,center pin and both fill hole and airflow screws.

so the leaks ended,but i still don't get the same vaping experience as with the previous kayfun.
i feel like there is still air coming from somewhere which prevents the wick and vape to be fully saturated,or in other words it's a dry vape(but no dry hits.)
i can also ear that the air intake is not the same when taking a drag.(not as tight and i did play a lot with the tiny screw,i can ear additional air)

so i tried the metal tank instead of the plastic one,and now I'm trying some kind of nano setting,but still the same.

my guesses are, there's either something wrong with the drilling of the air hole,or something around the top cap where the o-ring sits.(or maybe something with the threading of the steel rings or base not tightening enough.

the tank still vapes OK,and if it was someones first kfl+,he might have thought it was normal,but i definitely spot an issue.

Thanks.

 

[DavidOck]

The specific model KF would help, as there are several...

If the leaks were straight down the 510, perhaps it's insulator (o-ring) was damaged. Other leaks are generally from a bad tank o-ring.

Having had to run the 510 in further than on others may just be a manufacturing variance - or, as you suspect, an actual manufacturing defect. Or the screw itself may jost be a tad longer than is normal. But not usually a problem unless it "bottoms out" and you can't get the deck to be solid. (Or the pin has to go in so far you can't make contact.)

On your mysterious air leak... with it fully assembled (empty), cover all air intakes and try a gentle draw. If you get ANY air coming through, yes, you have a leak. With a bit of luck, you'll be able to hear where it's coming from, and go from there.

Good luck, and keep us posted!

 

[Two_Bears]

What is your wicking like.

Does the tails go all the way to the top of juice wells?

What size is the coil.

How high is tge bottom of the coil over the. Airflow. A higher coil will give you more air.

I keep a 2mm coil going and the bottom of the coil is only about 2 mm above airflow for best flavor.

Have Yoy measured the diameter of airflow to see if it is the same or checked the dismeyer or the airflow under the coil.

I used to use a Kayfun Monster Mini V3 that had big air for full fledged lung hits.

You may have one that was altered by soneone before you got it.

first of all let me say it's not my first kayfun,
I'm already using an authentic one for quit a time,
and bought 2 others to have since that's how i vape.

so i took the new one out of the box and first i noticed the air hole on the bottom was drilled differently,meaning i have to screw the little screw further in order to get the same draw i like.
also it seems i have to screw the center pin more,in order to secure the deck.
so I'm almost positive,it was drilled differently.

in my first use of it i had big leaks from underneath,the liquid didn't even reach the side airflow hole like it used in my previous kayfun when flooded.

i tried all kind of builds,but ended changing all the insulators, o-rings, middle tank,,center pin and both fill hole and airflow screws.

so the leaks ended,but i still don't get the same vaping experience as with the previous kayfun.
i feel like there is still air coming from somewhere which prevents the wick and vape to be fully saturated,or in other words it's a dry vape(but no dry hits.)
i can also ear that the air intake is not the same when taking a drag.(not as tight and i did play a lot with the tiny screw,i can ear additional air)

so i tried the metal tank instead of the plastic one,and now I'm trying some kind of nano setting,but still the same.

my guesses are, there's either something wrong with the drilling of the air hole,or something around the top cap where the o-ring sits.(or maybe something with the threading of the steel rings or base not tightening enough.

the tank still vapes OK,and if it was someones first kfl+,he might have thought it was normal,but i definitely spot an issue.

Thanks.

 

[RadiusNick]

The specific model KF would help, as there are several...

If the leaks were straight down the 510, perhaps it's insulator (o-ring) was damaged. Other leaks are generally from a bad tank o-ring.

Having had to run the 510 in further than on others may just be a manufacturing variance - or, as you suspect, an actual manufacturing defect. Or the screw itself may jost be a tad longer than is normal. But not usually a problem unless it "bottoms out" and you can't get the deck to be solid. (Or the pin has to go in so far you can't make contact.)

On your mysterious air leak... with it fully assembled (empty), cover all air intakes and try a gentle draw. If you get ANY air coming through, yes, you have a leak. With a bit of luck, you'll be able to hear where it's coming from, and go from there.

Good luck, and keep us posted!

model: it's a svoemesto 2016 kayfun .
the leaks were from the bottom air flow where the tiny screw is.but the leaks are no longer an issue,it got fixed after i changed all the moving parts.
on aside note:all my spare parts are supposedly authentic,and still i noticed the insulators can come from different materials,and especially;the 510 insulators comes in different lengths,not that big of a difference,but still they differ one from the other.
i tried checking for leaks with an empty tank,first without the base by putting the tank on the palm of my hand an sucking without the drip tip on and it seemed quit sealed,but with the base part on it seemed less sealed,but couldn't really tell where it comes from,but it really is not noticeable to a non experienced user since it creates quit a vacuum,but i still can hear a tiny hiss sometimes.
and even if i'm imagining that hiss or it's negligible,my vaping experience is definitely affected.(there an excess of air)

What is your wicking like.

Does the tails go all the way to the top of juice wells?

What size is the coil.

How high is tge bottom of the coil over the. Airflow. A higher coil will give you more air.

I keep a 2mm coil going and the bottom of the coil is only about 2 mm above airflow for best flavor.

Have Yoy measured the diameter of airflow to see if it is the same or checked the dismeyer or the airflow under the coil.

I used to use a Kayfun Monster Mini V3 that had big air for full fledged lung hits.

You may have one that was altered by soneone before you got it.

i really don't think it's a coil placement or wicking issue,
any how i tried them all(coil higher/lower more/less cotton),
and as i said i'm used to the Kayfun and with my other one no matter what i do it performs well,sometime more to my liking and sometimes less.
about the diameter of the air flow on the base,i assume that since i can still screw in the tiny screw through the threading than it must be in the standards,
and i already replaced the center pin where the air flow is under the coil is with another one.

 

[Two_Bears]

I boyght an authentic Kayfun Mini V3 $99 plus shipping. It leaked like a sieve unless i closed tge juice flow before putting it away for the night. Or all my juice flooded out the air flow during the night.

Its problem was in two parts.

A hairline gap where the top of the chimney met tge top of the atomizer

Then the O rings on the drip tip were weak abd couldn't keep a small vacuum in the tank. The tolerance was off just enoygh so it could leak.

model: it's a svoemesto 2016 kayfun .
the leaks were from the bottom air flow where the tiny screw is.but the leaks are no longer an issue,it got fixed after i changed all the moving parts.
on aside note:all my spare parts are supposedly authentic,and still i noticed the insulators can come from different materials,and especially;the 510 insulators comes in different lengths,not that big of a difference,but still they differ one from the other.
i tried checking for leaks with an empty tank,first without the base by putting the tank on the palm of my hand an sucking without the drip tip on and it seemed quit sealed,but with the base part on it seemed less sealed,but couldn't really tell where it comes from,but it really is not noticeable to a non experienced user since it creates quit a vacuum,but i still can hear a tiny hiss sometimes.
and even if i'm imagining that hiss or it's negligible,my vaping experience is definitely affected.(there an excess of air)



i really don't think it's a coil placement or wicking issue,
any how i tried them all(coil higher/lower more/less cotton),
and as i said i'm used to the Kayfun and with my other one no matter what i do it performs well,sometime more to my liking and sometimes less.
about the diameter of the air flow on the base,i assume that since i can still screw in the tiny screw through the threading than it must be in the standards,
and i already replaced the center pin where the air flow is under the coil is with another one.

 

[DaveP]

model: it's a svoemesto 2016 kayfun .
the leaks were from the bottom air flow where the tiny screw is.but the leaks are no longer an issue,it got fixed after i changed all the moving parts.
on aside note:all my spare parts are supposedly authentic,and still i noticed the insulators can come from different materials,and especially;the 510 insulators comes in different lengths,not that big of a difference,but still they differ one from the other.
i tried checking for leaks with an empty tank,first without the base by putting the tank on the palm of my hand an sucking without the drip tip on and it seemed quit sealed,but with the base part on it seemed less sealed,but couldn't really tell where it comes from,but it really is not noticeable to a non experienced user since it creates quit a vacuum,but i still can hear a tiny hiss sometimes.
and even if i'm imagining that hiss or it's negligible,my vaping experience is definitely affected.(there an excess of air)

Try sticking a piece of scotch tape over the air adjustment screw and then hold a wet finger over the side air hole, then pull a vacuum and stick your tongue over the drip tip. It should maintain the vacuum until you release it by removing your tongue.

I wonder sometimes if they fail to lube the o-rings with PG when they assemble some of these tanks at the factory. All it takes it a tear or nick when they tighten the parts and vacuum retention is gone. You also need good o-rings on the drip tip for the vacuum test. Don't forget the small o-ring on the 510 contact post. That has to be good and the post needs to be tightly screwed in.

 

[RadiusNick]

I boyght an authentic Kayfun Mini V3 $99 plus shipping. It leaked like a sieve unless i closed tge juice flow before putting it away for the night. Or all my juice flooded out the air flow during the night.

Its problem was in two parts.

A hairline gap where the top of the chimney met tge top of the atomizer

Then the O rings on the drip tip were weak abd couldn't keep a small vacuum in the tank. The tolerance was off just enoygh so it could leak.

just when i thought about selling this specific kfl+ and get a mini v3 instead..
it appears that buying an expensive high end device doesn't guaranty a trouble free experience or a perfect item.
i was expecting more consistency in the manufacturing of these and and a strict quality check, but i guess that made in Europe/US vs made in China means less nowadays.

Try sticking a piece of scotch tape over the air adjustment screw and then hold a wet finger over the side air hole, then pull a vacuum and stick your tongue over the drip tip. It should maintain the vacuum until you release it by removing your tongue.

I wonder sometimes if they fail to lube the o-rings with PG when they assemble some of these tanks at the factory. All it takes it a tear or nick when they tighten the parts and vacuum retention is gone. You also need good o-rings on the drip tip for the vacuum test. Don't forget the small o-ring on the 510 contact post. That has to be good and the post needs to be tightly screwed in.

that's a good idea with the scotch tape,i tried doing it with my fingers but had a bit of a hard time.
i'll test it again when dried from being washed and prepared to being sold.(even though I'm not sure i can sell it in its actual condition,might not be fair).

 

[RadiusNick]

a short follow up:
@DaveP advice with putting a piece of scotch tape on the air hole helped me a lot with troubleshooting.
(i did put scotch on both holes.)
i won't bother you with all the details,but in short;
i took a third kfl i have out of it's box(new) and proceeded swapping tanks.
in conclusion:
the pmma tank doesn't hold vacuum well if at all,it depends if you're lucky and get a good one.
i have 4-5, supposedly original and they all act the same.
i checked the vacuum of the pmma vs metal without the base/deck part on,using the palm of my hand,
and then with the deck on + a metal tank and some scotch tape.

so I'm now using the kayfun with the metal tank and it seems like my kayfuns work well.
it's less fun without seeing the state of the liquid and the wicking bubbles and needs a bit of practice with refilling,
but it works and is supposedly more sturdy in this setup.
so thanks.

 

[DavidOck]

Did you move the o-rings from the metal center piece to the pmma? Every KF2 I've purchased has come assembled "full metal", and all have been swapped out, moving the rings, and no leaks. Usually have around a dozen loaded, so any individual flavor might be in a tank on a mod for a few weeks.

Or there could be a hairline crack in the one you have - they're available and cheap

 

[RadiusNick]

Did you move the o-rings from the metal center piece to the pmma? Every KF2 I've purchased has come assembled "full metal", and all have been swapped out, moving the rings, and no leaks. Usually have around a dozen loaded, so any individual flavor might be in a tank on a mod for a few weeks.

Or there could be a hairline crack in the one you have - they're available and cheap

you mean taking the o-rings from the metal tank and putting them on the pmma one?
i might have done that in the process, but what i'm sure of is that i replaced the o-rings with new ones i have in spare bags i bought too.
the pmma tanks might be fine and i might try them again after some time, when i'm sure the issue was resolved,
but some of the ones i have came with excess of plastic and i had some hard time screwing them in and find the threading.
any how even with the one that works well i could spot a big difference in the sealing of the tank,pmma vs metal.
you might want to try and see by yourself doing the test without the base part on;
just put it on the palm of your hand,suck air and seal the top(without the drip tip)with your tongue and see how well it holds the pressure.

 

[DavidOck]

Whether moving them or putting the spares on, yes, getting the o-rings onto the PMMA. Since you seem to have done that, perhaps it is just a bad one.

They are fine threaded, and easy to cross. The stainless base or top isn't very forgiving! Finding the right place to "catch" the thread is important - holding the pieces gently and squarely together and turning counter-clockwise until it "clicks" is a good habit to acquire.

If the center section - steel or PMMA - shows any gaps then the effective height of the tank is increased, and the chimney may not be making a good seal with the top (tiny) o-ring - another potential leak source.

I generally leave the entire 3 piece top as one when I tear down to clean / rewick / recoil, so mine don't see a lot of wear and tear.

 

[DaveP]

a short follow up:
@DaveP advice with putting a piece of scotch tape on the air hole helped me a lot with troubleshooting.
(i did put scotch on both holes.)
i won't bother you with all the details,but in short;
i took a third kfl i have out of it's box(new) and proceeded swapping tanks.
in conclusion:
the pmma tank doesn't hold vacuum well if at all,it depends if you're lucky and get a good one.
i have 4-5, supposedly original and they all act the same.
i checked the vacuum of the pmma vs metal without the base/deck part on,using the palm of my hand,
and then with the deck on + a metal tank and some scotch tape.

so I'm now using the kayfun with the metal tank and it seems like my kayfuns work well.
it's less fun without seeing the state of the liquid and the wicking bubbles and needs a bit of practice with refilling,
but it works and is supposedly more sturdy in this setup.
so thanks.

Those plastic (polycarbonate) clear tank sections are really reliable, but the threaded portion can crack if it's dropped. You might not notice it with a visual inspection, but it won't hold vacuum if it's cracked. A really bad crack will make it leak like a sieve. I dropped one on a concrete surface and the initial inspection revealed no issues, but my hand was full of juice on the next vape. The threads were cracked and I could pull the tank into a curve where the clear section was cracked.

That and the rest of the o-rings in the mated sections are places to look for air leaks.

The clear tank sections also have the thin o-rings that can wrinkle if they aren't wet with juice as you tighten them down. The wrinkle can cause a leak.

 

[RadiusNick]

I've retried the plastic tanks and found out that every o-ring on the tank should be well lubed before reassembling,for it to be vacuum sealed.
at first i thought it was just an advice in order to keep your o-rings i good shape,but it's more than that.
but with the metal tank it's still more sealed and can hold more pressure for longer.
so it seems all my kayfuns works well, but the first one i got, still has different depth to it's threading than the other two,
anyhow it seems like problem solved.
Thanks for the assistance.

 

[bwh79]

Finding the right place to "catch" the thread is important - holding the pieces gently and squarely together and turning counter-clockwise until it "clicks" is a good habit to acquire.

I've been doing that with every screw and threaded object I assemble ever since I can remember (my dad taught me early). Sometimes it will be hard to find the catch and someone will see me spinning and spining and go "you're turning it the wrong way" and I'm like thanks, I know, trying not to break your thing.

 

[DavidOck]

Glad it's sorted out and working for you. That's the key thing.

 

[RadiusNick]

still, the 2 second kayfuns don't vape as nice as the first one,and they are identical in their threading unlike the first one.
maybe it's the first one that is "faulty" and i got used to it,
anyhow, i think i 'm gonna sell one and try the mini v3 instead or a Russian.