I tried everything, still cant fix.
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Think OP has tried that. I might be wrong tho, been thread hopping and now my poor little brain is getting all mixed up.
Sometimes I feel like a cat in a field of grasshoppers.
If juice got into the mod then almost anything can happen. Depends on how far your willing to go by taking the mod apart and clean inside. If juice got onto the board could be a reason for it shorting or causing bad connection somewhere. I don't have a istick pico but other Isticks I've taken apart and cleaned gunky old sticky juice off the wires and the 510 pin thats inside the mod. A small ball bearing or small nut ontop the 510 then screw the atty on a bit will expose the bottom of the 510 pin to be easier to clean
I did a quick youtube "istick pico troubleshooting no atomizer" and there are many vids that could fix the problem
I did a quick youtube "istick pico troubleshooting no atomizer" and there are many vids that could fix the problem
I can offer you of no assistance except for what I would do. I would get a big hammer and beat the heck out of it. Tap it lightly first. Then tap it a little heavier. If it's still don't work beat the snot out of it. And just get a new one.
I do it with my tools every time I work on my truck. Good stress reliever.
I do it with my tools every time I work on my truck. Good stress reliever.
Try these three things, in order (even if you've already tried one or more):
- Remove the tank and press the fire button with the device powered on. You should get a no atomizer button. If you don't, your device is broken or defective. If you do...
- Attach just the base of the tank with no coil installed and press the fire button with the device powered on. You should get a no atomizer button again. If you don't, the atomizer is damaged or defective and it likely cannot be safely repaired. If you do...
- Thoroughly inspect and clean the tank. Look for any kind of debris or anything out of place, especially in/on the base. Assemble the tank with a fresh coil. Press the fire button with the device powered on. You should see the mod begin counting the seconds. If you don't, the coil is defective (and this might be true for both factory supplied coils).
if you do have to replace it then I would suggest going with a Smok o-sub or something like that. Not for nothing but I-stick aren't exactly a high quality device, jump up to a Wismec Sinuous P80 80 watt, Innoken cool-fire IV, or an Innoken MVP 4, even a Kanger-Tech 75w box. All of which are user friendly not overly expensive and are far superior in quality by comparison. I-stick is the Kia Rio of vape devices extremely budget friendly but not made for long haul abuse. Look at Sigelei devices, Vaporesso, or if you don't mind spending the money move towards an H-cigar VT-75 DNA device they are anywhere from 90 to 125 dollars but utilize the best 75 watt board available and offer option of using a 26650 or 18650 battery. The I-Stick line have always been plagued by 510 connector issues from day one but when someone is first starting out and aren't sure that vaping is going to be the cure the I-stick is a relatively inexpensive starting point but as you have seen are quickly replaced. Good luck and let us know what happens and what direction you gravitate to.
Omg, i just realized something horrible. I live in a small country and there is no delivery from most companies
. Thats why i bought the istick pico from someone in my country. It was brand new the box packed and stuff, it wasnt used. BUT i didnt look up the price of the pico before hand and i ended up paying 100$ for it. Im such an idiot, thats why im so keen to repair it lol. I really need to be more careful.I'm sorry to hear that. If it's any consolation, in the beginning I chose several vape products that weren't really right for me. It can get hard (and more expensive) if you don't have as much options for purchase. I hope you are able to find a company (maybe look in countries near to you, and/or perhaps a Chinese vendor. Or could check out some of these boards to see if there is info on your country or somewhere nearby? International Language Forums
Best of luck,
Anna
Best of luck,
Anna
If the transistor failed short, then wouldn't the coil be carrying current a soon as atty connected?
Then again screwed up feedback to microcontroller might send the thing into indeterminate territory.
All that said info is far too confused to attempt to diagnose.
I would certainly reflash the firmware, here is a link...
Softwares for iStick Pico - Eleaf electronic cigarette
A pity these problems always seem to hit someone in a small country with no/little backup.
I would really like to get my hands on some broken mods for a play with and would certainly be willing to help out fellow vapers with problems.
if you don't mind me asking where do you live? Is there some kind of ban on the importation of vape products? Have you checked sites like 3Fvape.com they are out of China but they ship to everywhere? There are a lot of US distributors that don't ship globally, but the China based distributors generally ship anywhere and most of them are free shipping. Not that I really promote using this site but check out Fasttech.com they have decent pricing and free shipping worldwide but they aren't always as their name depicts (fast) they can be slow in processing and shipping. I've never dealt with them personally but I have friends that have and it has been a mix of good and less than impressed experiences. My buddy got his product in 14 days, but then my nephew didn't get his until 45 days, so it can be hit or miss on expedient delivery. I hope this can help you some, and another you can look into is heavengifts.com I'm not sure about their shipping policy but they are a pretty big global distributor as well.Omg, i just realized something horrible. I live in a small country and there is no delivery from most companies
Hi, i have a atomizer short error with my istick pico, melo3 mini. I did everything to the automizer and nothing so i tried my friends automizer and i found out the problem is in the mod. I tried correcting the pin i clened it with a q-tip and tried charging it fully restarting taking out batterys... Nothing. Pls help me i dont want my money wasted
You've gotten some great advice here. No atomizer when there's not an atomizer on,. atomizer short when ANY atomizer is on. I have had that happen before with me with two mods and I took the mods apart to see what was wrong with it.
With one mod, the cuboid, it was a faulty 510 design. The wire was soldered to the 510 pin, then the wire was hotglued to the case. As atomizers were attached, taken off, it would bend the wire slightly, until it came loose at the solder. When there was no atomizer attached, it would read as no atomizer, when the atomizer was screwed in, the pin was pushed down, but the wire was pushed down to a supporting screw shorting it. Because they permanently attached the 510, It was impossible to get a soldering iron in to fix it.
With the second mod, juice got past the 510 and on to the electronics. It caused odd behavior, and made it unusable. Even after I dried it off with a paper towel, it still worked strange... I believe some juice got between the chip and the circuit board. Even after 6 months of no use, and I even tried heating it up a bit to dry it out, it still wasn't usable.
Since I am a former smoker, having a usable device is a must. For that reason, I have a few backups. I am always with two mods. If I was in your situation, I would first buy a backup mod of a different company. I never have two of the same mods, because if there is a problem, I don't want hte same thing to happen. Once you have a known good mod, I then do a "last ditch effort" on repairs. I am "ok" with small electronics repair.. .not an expert, but it doesn't scare me. I cannot say for sure what is wrong with your mod, there is no %100 sure way of finding out what's wrong until you take it apart and take a look for yourself. If you're not confident in taking apart small electronics, then I would chalk it up to a defective mod and work on buying a replacement, and then a backup after that as soon as you can.
The second thing I have learned, is to buy a heat sink. or something to go between the mod and the atomizer. Since I have bought those heat sinks, I have had zero issues with the 510 in over a year. All my mods have one.
Here are some replacements I would suggest that have been solidly built.
Eleaf Aster I've had this one for a while, and it has been rock solid. The price was good, but the build quality is above most. Solid metal, no rattle, and good button placement made this a good one. I haven't tried the TC mode, so I cannot attest for that.
RofVape Warlock Z Not a name brand, and it has a few quirks, but it has been rock solid as well. This one surprised me, Since it's low price and from an unknown company. I recommend it because I broke it... I dropped it taking it out of my pocket. The fall shattered my tank, and it actually broke a screw holding it together. I managed to find a replacement screw and put the mod back together. Looking at the inside, it looks like they built it right... no hotglue on the inside. The electronics are a bit on the basic side, but the build quality is good for what it has and the price is good as well.
There are many others to recommend, but these are two that have worked for me.
Welcome and glad you joined.Omg, i just realized something horrible. I live in a small country and there is no delivery from most companies
Know how you feel, I bet everyone has had a deal only to find out we made a wrong decision.
I posted a new post on this forum i found the problem and now i dont have to buy a new one! YEEEEES.
Tell us what it was that fixed it, or post where you gave such info
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