IF thats true...we all just quit Cigs and Nic. Not sure why folks say that possibly like it's a bad thing...all thats left is the hand to mouth and newly developed hording problem to kick.
I want my Nicotine!
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IF thats true...we all just quit Cigs and Nic. Not sure why folks say that possibly like it's a bad thing...all thats left is the hand to mouth and newly developed hording problem to kick.
in case you were curious:
The List of 599 Additives in Cigarettes
the PG that has the FDA up in arms is also in tobacco cigarettes. go figure.
The List of 599 Additives in Cigarettes
the PG that has the FDA up in arms is also in tobacco cigarettes. go figure.
LOVE the hoarding remark.....
Hi all,
I am very new to vaping so please correct me if i'm wrong but as for the OP question about Nic levels:
As I understand it, the MG strength is based on volume. If you buy 10 ml of juice at 24 mg, then u would have to vape the entire bottle to get 24mg. for ease of math, say your carts hold 1ml each, the bottle your using is 10ml/24mg. you get 10 carts filled from the 10ml. The actual MG of nic you get from vaping the cart empty is 2.4 mg. Since most people don't chain vape a cart from start to finish and the average person seems to say a cart is equivilant to 5 analogs, you divide that 2.4mg by 5 to arrive at .48mg per equivilant analog.
Sound right?
I am very new to vaping so please correct me if i'm wrong but as for the OP question about Nic levels:
As I understand it, the MG strength is based on volume. If you buy 10 ml of juice at 24 mg, then u would have to vape the entire bottle to get 24mg. for ease of math, say your carts hold 1ml each, the bottle your using is 10ml/24mg. you get 10 carts filled from the 10ml. The actual MG of nic you get from vaping the cart empty is 2.4 mg. Since most people don't chain vape a cart from start to finish and the average person seems to say a cart is equivilant to 5 analogs, you divide that 2.4mg by 5 to arrive at .48mg per equivilant analog.
Sound right?
No.
If you buy 24mg juice, every ml has 24mg nicotine, it doesn't matter what size bottle you buy, that is the strength of it, it's 'per ml'.
A ml. is between 20 and 30 drops (or more, if they're small).
and welcome to the ECF forum!
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Thak you VERY MUCH for the clarification. I was told wrong. 
so is this equation universal, all companies base 1ml/Xmg?
so is this equation universal, all companies base 1ml/Xmg?
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Thak you VERY MUCH for the clarification. I was told wrong.
so is this equation universal, all companies base 1ml/Xmg?
Yes. universally unless stated otherwise...this is the standard conversion/equation.
Welcome!!!
I'v only been vaping for about 2 weeks now and very recently joined ECF... Just want to say the ecf has to be the best forum I have ever been on. the information here is excellent and the activity here is astounding. I have only posted a few comments and questions but the responces have all been very quick and very helpfull, sorry to hijack but WTGECF!!
I smoked about the same as you, on average about five per day (sometimes as few as three, sometimes as many as seven on a bad day) and as many as ten when I was drinking.
But I had been doing that for over 25 years, and I can tell you that I stopped getting any kind of buzz a long time ago. Well, except as one of the previous posters said, that first cigarette of the morning when I hadn't had one for a long time would still give me a slight buzz.
And just for reference puposes, I use 12mg strength juice.
Just to clarify, it is the trace amount of DEG found in one of the 18 cartridges tested, that has the FDA up in arms. It was only found in one cartridge from Smoking Everywhere, and it was not found at all in any of the NJoy cartridges.
Good responses so far.
I would point out something else to the OP. The degree to which you get nic satiated from vaping depends largely on how much vapor you inhale per unit of time. I started out using the Blucig. It's a good device for its intended niche: for people who were light smokers, or for people who intend to use it while continuing to smoke, as an "out and about" device that they can use in public. However, if you are a hardcore nic addict, honestly I suggest that you try a device with a heaftier battery and a hotter burning atomizer. That will allow you to take in more vapor, and hence more nic, per drag.
I found that with the Blu, I was able to sometimes get high volume individual vapes after fiddling with it, but I could never sustain more than a few in a series. After I received my current hardware, which is a much more heavy duty unit, I vaped it for several hours and got a very intense nicotine buzz. Not only had I never gotten that kind of sensation from the Blu, I had only ever gotten it from my Marlboro's after not smoking for 6-8 hours at a time (like on an airplane), then I would get a very intense buzz with that first cigarette after the long abstinence. That was pretty much the sensation I got with this new device. Of course, I actually overdid it and have scaled back. Anyway, the point being, with a well made, heavy duty device, you get more consistency and hence you have the option of imbibing as much or little as you want, whereas with a lighter unit, you often encounter the limitation of whatever the device is able to deliver at a given time. With the Blu in particular, those batteries are very weak and they start to give very cold, low output vapes well before the blue light even starts blinking to tell you to change out the battery.
I still like the Blu and am keeping it around as a backup and to use in restaurants and bars, but for at home and in office vaping, I suggest you consider a beefier unit. There are loads of good recommendations on this board. I suggest purusing the e-cigarette review forum.
- wolf
I would point out something else to the OP. The degree to which you get nic satiated from vaping depends largely on how much vapor you inhale per unit of time. I started out using the Blucig. It's a good device for its intended niche: for people who were light smokers, or for people who intend to use it while continuing to smoke, as an "out and about" device that they can use in public. However, if you are a hardcore nic addict, honestly I suggest that you try a device with a heaftier battery and a hotter burning atomizer. That will allow you to take in more vapor, and hence more nic, per drag.
I found that with the Blu, I was able to sometimes get high volume individual vapes after fiddling with it, but I could never sustain more than a few in a series. After I received my current hardware, which is a much more heavy duty unit, I vaped it for several hours and got a very intense nicotine buzz. Not only had I never gotten that kind of sensation from the Blu, I had only ever gotten it from my Marlboro's after not smoking for 6-8 hours at a time (like on an airplane), then I would get a very intense buzz with that first cigarette after the long abstinence. That was pretty much the sensation I got with this new device. Of course, I actually overdid it and have scaled back. Anyway, the point being, with a well made, heavy duty device, you get more consistency and hence you have the option of imbibing as much or little as you want, whereas with a lighter unit, you often encounter the limitation of whatever the device is able to deliver at a given time. With the Blu in particular, those batteries are very weak and they start to give very cold, low output vapes well before the blue light even starts blinking to tell you to change out the battery.
I still like the Blu and am keeping it around as a backup and to use in restaurants and bars, but for at home and in office vaping, I suggest you consider a beefier unit. There are loads of good recommendations on this board. I suggest purusing the e-cigarette review forum.
- wolf
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Oh wow, did not know about the MAOIs....it's infuriating! Oh wait, except that I voluntarily ingested all the other disgusting stuff in analogs for 24 years, so in the end I suppose it was up to me to research what I was putting in my body. Um, never did THAT, of course....much easier to take the head-buried-in-sand route.
Thanks for this info...it's all going in the file that I will pull out if I ever consider going back to analogs!
DEG is also used a a humectant for tobacco products. Also, I found this:
QUOTE:
Regarding Diethylene Glycol:
Looking at the Health New Zealand study1, the presence of Diethylene Glycol was not tested for. They seem to have based their tests on manufacturer ingredient lists and known tobacco carcinogens.
So what is Diethylene Glycol? The MSDS2 shows that chronic exposure to Diethylene Glycol can cause lesions on the liver and kidneys, as well as damage to the same organs. In the case of inhalation, the only first aid recommended is removal from the source to fresh air. The toxicalogical information is as follows:
Quote:
Oral rat LD50: 12565 mg/kg. Skin rabbit LD50: 11.89 g/kg Irritation: eye rabbit, standard Draize: 50 mg mild. Investigated as a tumorigen and reproductive effector.
���\Cancer Lists\������������������
�NTP Carcinogen�
Ingredient Known Anticipated IARC Category
������������ �� ���� ����-
Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6) No No None
This shows that Diethylene Glycol is not a known carcinogen, nor is it expected to be found as one in the future. In addition, the dose required to kill half of the sample of rats tested is 12.565 g/kg and 11.89 g/kg for rabbits. Assuming this can be extended to humans, an average adult male would have to ingest 855.925 g to receive a lethal dose.
Is Diethylene Glycol the main ingredient in antifreeze? The EPA3 has this to say about antifreeze variations:
Quote:
Antifreeze typically contains ethylene glycol as its active ingredient, but some manufacturers market propylene glycol-based antifreeze, which is less toxic to humans and pets. The acute, or short-term, toxicity of propylene glycol, especially in humans, is substantially lower than that of ethylene glycol. Regardless of which active ingredient the spent antifreeze contains, heavy metals contaminate the antifreeze during service. When contaminated, particularly with lead, used antifreeze can be considered hazardous and should be reused, recycled, or disposed of properly.
Ethylene Glycol is the main ingredient in antifreeze. While straight antifreeze is toxic, the main hazard is from used antifreeze, which absorbs heavy metals.
END QUOTE
QUOTE:
Regarding Diethylene Glycol:
Looking at the Health New Zealand study1, the presence of Diethylene Glycol was not tested for. They seem to have based their tests on manufacturer ingredient lists and known tobacco carcinogens.
So what is Diethylene Glycol? The MSDS2 shows that chronic exposure to Diethylene Glycol can cause lesions on the liver and kidneys, as well as damage to the same organs. In the case of inhalation, the only first aid recommended is removal from the source to fresh air. The toxicalogical information is as follows:
Quote:
Oral rat LD50: 12565 mg/kg. Skin rabbit LD50: 11.89 g/kg Irritation: eye rabbit, standard Draize: 50 mg mild. Investigated as a tumorigen and reproductive effector.
���\Cancer Lists\������������������
�NTP Carcinogen�
Ingredient Known Anticipated IARC Category
������������ �� ���� ����-
Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6) No No None
This shows that Diethylene Glycol is not a known carcinogen, nor is it expected to be found as one in the future. In addition, the dose required to kill half of the sample of rats tested is 12.565 g/kg and 11.89 g/kg for rabbits. Assuming this can be extended to humans, an average adult male would have to ingest 855.925 g to receive a lethal dose.
Is Diethylene Glycol the main ingredient in antifreeze? The EPA3 has this to say about antifreeze variations:
Quote:
Antifreeze typically contains ethylene glycol as its active ingredient, but some manufacturers market propylene glycol-based antifreeze, which is less toxic to humans and pets. The acute, or short-term, toxicity of propylene glycol, especially in humans, is substantially lower than that of ethylene glycol. Regardless of which active ingredient the spent antifreeze contains, heavy metals contaminate the antifreeze during service. When contaminated, particularly with lead, used antifreeze can be considered hazardous and should be reused, recycled, or disposed of properly.
Ethylene Glycol is the main ingredient in antifreeze. While straight antifreeze is toxic, the main hazard is from used antifreeze, which absorbs heavy metals.
END QUOTE
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