I want to get a mechanical mod

[zandersig]

I would start with an RDA or RBA first to practice coil builds and making them work for what you've got utilizing wire gage and coil styles. It's half art form and half science/math. If you're not good with the science/math part at least you have protection with your regulated mod. Once you're ready you can step up to a mech. Do some research and watch some reviews too. It will help. Go to your local B&M and ask them to give you a lesson on mechanicals and coil builds. Most likely they will be happy to get you interested in new equipment (if they're good business minded people) so long as you spend money in their shop. Some good hands on time was the best way for me to decided when I was ready.

IMO if you're looking for your FIRST mod get something simple that doesn't require any tinkering to get it right. It has been said before in this thread, get a nemesis clone or a private v2 clone. Very simple operation and the clones have been back engineered and re-engineered over and over again (that's why you see so many of them)... AND they're relatively inexpensive. Spend the money on some good batteries. The batteries will be the difference from an epic vape or catastrophic accident.

Be patient and learn the art and science of mechanicals the right way. Save money with a simple clone. Spend the money on good batteries.

Good luck.

Yeah, I have been playing with my Kayfun Lite Plus revision 2 and my ERA (with the holes drilled out bigger) but I'm not really into the drippers. What other decent priced RBA Tanks would you suggest? I tried the Fogger v3 and I didn't like that so I sold it. I would love to get one of the Doc Dave Steam Turbines or a Vicious Ant Cyclone Top Feed AFC but man they are expensive! What's some other good tanks (22mm)?

 

[zandersig]

Anyone know of some non clone rebuildable tanks? I finally got my magneto and now I think I'm going to buy a Maraxus Mod. I finally got to hold one yesterday and from the looks of it on the net it looks like it would be hard too hold it but that's not the case, plus it has a good solid weight to it and is real easy to hold.

 

[bsoplinger]

The V4 Fogger is nice although I'm somewhat underwhelmed with the latest revision which sacrificed capacity for a larger deck which wasn't really needed since the older one was big enough.

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[jpcwon]

The V4 Fogger is nice although I'm somewhat underwhelmed with the latest revision which sacrificed capacity for a larger deck which wasn't really needed since the older one was big enough.

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Great, and I just ordered the latest revision!! haha.......How much liquid does the latest one hold compared to the previous version just outta curiosity?

 

[bsoplinger]

New capacity is 3.1, old was 4.5 so you can see they enlarged the deck by quite a bit.

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[jpcwon]

New capacity is 3.1, old was 4.5 so you can see they enlarged the deck by quite a bit.

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Geez, I'll say!! I bought the fogger v4 because I like my Aqua so much, but want something with a bit more capacity....3.1 is alright, but 4.5 would've been awesome!

 

[bsoplinger]

Yeah its now very similar to an Aqua I've been told. Don't own or have seen one myself but I much prefer the previous V4 one I have over this latest style. Still easier to build dual coils than a Kayfun. Oh, new version can only be filled with a nipple bottle now, the enlarged deck required a convoluted path from the fill hole to the chamber. A nozzle or syringe just leaks out the fill hole, you need the pressure generated by sealing the fill hole with the nozzle tip to force the e-liquid into the Fogger.

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[zandersig]

Guys, I finally got my Magneto in and man this thing is small! Now I have read the battery section on here and I will post a picture of all the batteries I have tonight. I'm still really concerned about the battery blowing up in my face... I had a guy that works at a vapor shop here in Georgia and he told me that if I buy a 18650 battery that has 35amps that I would be safe. I'm really concerned about shorts in my coils and making sure the coils don't touch anything (like if I built a sub ohm coil and put it in a Kanger head that goes into a Protank v2.

Would a kick make anything more safer or using a PCB battery?

I mean I check my builds with a multimeter but it doesn't tell me if I have a short in the coil or not.
For instance, I will rebuild a Kanger head that goes into my Kanger Mini Protank v2 and when I check it with my multimeter everything reads okay (ohms) but when I get everything back together and put it on my SmokTech SID and sometimes depending on which way I hold my SID the screen will show me "short" and it won't fire so I turn the SID in my hand and it will fire! I don't know if it's the SID that has a short or if it's the coil that I built and put in the Kanger head (I think it's because a wire is touching the side of the Kanger head.

Now I have a ERA Dripper that I can use with my Magneto but I'm still paranoid that I will get a short somewhere and it will blow up in my face! I talked to a vaper today about this and he had a friend that was using a mech mod and he put ... oil in the tank or whatever he was using and it caused a short and it blew off half of his face, dislocated his right jaw bone, lost a bunch of teeth, etc.... When I hear stuff like this it makes me back out on making a coil for my ERA and trying it out with my Magneto!

So I was just wondering if a kick or using PCB batteries would make any difference? I'm not even sure if my charger will accept a PCB battery. I will post what batteries I have and my charger when I get home.

Thanks guys!

P.S. is the clone of the Kracken any good?
I'm also thinking about buying the "Maraxus Mod"....

 

[zandersig]

Here are the pics of my batteries and Charger.

The charger is the Efest LUC

The pink battery is a Samsung

The dark green battery is a Sony (US18650VTC4 2100 mAh)

The other green one I think is a Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900 mAh Battery. (


Is there a way to check amps of these batteries with a digital multimeter?
TIA

 

[suspectK]

No... but I'm pretty sure I remember.
Pink Samsung is ~5.5Amps continuous
The green Samsung is 6.8amps continuous..

The Sony vtc's are 30 amps continuous. Vtc3 1800mAh, vtc4's 2100mAh, vtc5's 2600mAh.

I almost only use my 4nine with vtc5's.. since I got the 4nine sexy little thing.

 

[bsoplinger]

Your issue on the Kanger coil rebuilds is the little plastic insulator. Somehow you're installing it wrong allowing the legs to touch (short) or fail to contact the connection (open). You can't get that problem with rebuildable atomizers. You can fail to catch a leg on the screw, some designs are more difficult than others. You can also short one leg to the deck. Regardless, when you test the coil to see its resistance (ohm) you'll catch the error then and not as you're vaping. Use the Sony and Panasonic and keep your builds at 1 ohm and above and you'll be fine. Once you've built some coils and have more confidence you can do lower builds. Stick with the high amp drain Sony for that.

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[zandersig]

Check this out, all mech mods should have this... "The adjustable positive contact is composed of silver-plated brass to supply your atomizer with uncompromised voltage and the negative contact is an innovative solid brass spring that will collapse in the event of a battery short-circuit".

Here is the link to the item Vaperev Shop - Guppy SS-M - Devices

I can't believe that they have mech mods on this site for 3grand! Wow!

I really like this but God it's expensive... Vaperev Shop - Black Copper Stingray Mod - Devices

 

[zandersig]

This looks interesting.... WDYT?


SmokTech Re-settable Fuse - Kidney Puncher

 

[bsoplinger]

I really like this but God it's expensive... Vaperev Shop - Black Copper Stingray Mod - Devices

The link isn't working at the moment, but I assume it's the genuine mod. FastTech offers a decent $30 version and you can get the Infinite version for $75 or less. The clone is popular right now so the prices reflect that. If you look hard you can beat that $75. There's also the EHPro version in between price-wise.

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[zandersig]

Your issue on the Kanger coil rebuilds is the little plastic insulator. Somehow you're installing it wrong allowing the legs to touch (short) or fail to contact the connection (open). You can't get that problem with rebuildable atomizers. You can fail to catch a leg on the screw, some designs are more difficult than others. You can also short one leg to the deck. Regardless, when you test the coil to see its resistance (ohm) you'll catch the error then and not as you're vaping. Use the Sony and Panasonic and keep your builds at 1 ohm and above and you'll be fine. Once you've built some coils and have more confidence you can do lower builds. Stick with the high amp drain Sony for that.

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Thanks man! Yeah I'm going to order some more of those Sony batteries! They are nice!

 

[zandersig]

Hey guys, would it be worth it for me to buy these two items?

SmokTech Kick Clone - Kidney Puncher


SmokTech Re-settable Fuse - Kidney Puncher

What do you think? Today just about everyone is having a sale!
I think I will probably buy this also...


Kraken Clone - Kidney Puncher

 

[bsoplinger]

The kick 2, and it's clones, go up to 15W instead of 12W. If you really want a regulated vape why not just get any of the $40-$50 vv/vw devices out there? That's my answer to the kick.

The fuse... Well if you're really concerned about having a runaway device then I guess it'd be good to get. But if your device is constructed so poorly the switch might get stuck to cause the runaway, I'd suggest what you really need is a new device. If your build might be a short circuit, why aren't you checking the build on an ohm meter before you fire it? In other words, I don't see a reason for a fuse unless absolute peace of mind is crucial for you.

Lots of folks like the Kracken. I don't have one, never saw one, can't really comment.

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[zandersig]

I was wanting to get either a kick or the fuse to protect against shorts in my builds. I already have a SmokTech SID vv/vw and it won't read anything below 1.2ohms. I do check my stuff with a multimeter but I have rebuilt kanger heads and they read fine on the multimeter but when I start using them my SID will display "Short" and it won't fire, that's why I'm asking about the kick or the fuse I think both of them protects against shorts? I mean you never now what is going on under the hood of a coil build and I am just trying to do something so I won't blow my face off.

Maybe I will just get the little fuse, it's only 4 dollars...

 

[Bad Ninja]

I was wanting to get either a kick or the fuse to protect against shorts in my builds. I already have a SmokTech SID vv/vw and it won't read anything below 1.2ohms. I do check my stuff with a multimeter but I have rebuilt kanger heads and they read fine on the multimeter but when I start using them my SID will display "Short" and it won't fire, that's why I'm asking about the kick or the fuse I think both of them protects against shorts? I mean you never now what is going on under the hood of a coil build and I am just trying to do something so I won't blow my face off.

Maybe I will just get the little fuse, it's only 4 dollars...

Why not get an ohm reader an check for a short before ya vape?
Fuses and kicks limit your builds.
Check everything before vaping new builds.

 

[zandersig]

Why not get an ohm reader an check for a short before ya vape?
Fuses and kicks limit your builds.
Check everything before vaping new builds.

Yeah, kidney Punch has a nice one I will probably get one from them... my cheap ... multimeter is something that I don't trust. :'(