IGO-L problems. And can someone school me on RBA? Ready to learn!
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One safety note, yeah I know.... but.
Have a meter or a mod with a meter. Using 28 gauge especially or even more so a lower gauge number it is surprising how much wire/ wraps it takes to make a normal resistance coil. Having too low a resistance can cause battery malfunction. Learn OHM's law, understand wattage and voltage and resistance. I'm not going to search for the links to good info, no reason you shouldn't.
There is a boatload of safety info Here regarding low resistance coils and battery safety. If you dontk ow what you are doing, or why, take the time to learn it. It's for your own safety. 'Nuff said.
Sent from my XT901 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk 2
Have a meter or a mod with a meter. Using 28 gauge especially or even more so a lower gauge number it is surprising how much wire/ wraps it takes to make a normal resistance coil. Having too low a resistance can cause battery malfunction. Learn OHM's law, understand wattage and voltage and resistance. I'm not going to search for the links to good info, no reason you shouldn't.
There is a boatload of safety info Here regarding low resistance coils and battery safety. If you dontk ow what you are doing, or why, take the time to learn it. It's for your own safety. 'Nuff said.
Sent from my XT901 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk 2
So I torched the wire and built a coil from the stock kanthal in the package and I still and getting this horrible taste! What am I doing wrong???
If your using 30 ga around a 1/16" mold, start with 10 tight (touching) wraps. This is a good baseline. If it's too warm, wrap another coil with a couple more wraps. Too cool, wrap another with a couple less wraps.
If you find that you like a warmer vape after dropping to 8 wraps, order some 28 ga Kanthal A1 from temcoindustrialpower.com. 100' is like. $6.
If you find that 8 wraps us still too cool, order some 27 ga.
Ideally, you want to reach your target resistance with 10-14 wraps with a micro coil for optimal performance
Perfect! Also why not use SIlica Wick?
It doesn't burn.
I just like the simplicity and ease of rewicking afforded by cotton. It doesn't burn either when kept wet
. Also, I don't have the patience to try to thread silica (or any other wicking medium) thru the micro coil.
About the taste:
Seems like your gonna want to boil that RBA in water with a little dish soap for about 10 minutes. The rinse thoroughly.
When setting up the coil in the RBA, make sure it's not so close to the deck / posts that the heat of the coil is melting the insulators at the base of the posts.
Seems like your gonna want to boil that RBA in water with a little dish soap for about 10 minutes. The rinse thoroughly.
When setting up the coil in the RBA, make sure it's not so close to the deck / posts that the heat of the coil is melting the insulators at the base of the posts.
It's probably a hot spot.
If you have silica, try wrapping a normal(not micro) coil on it, check ohms, and fire it without juice. You don't want a portion of the coil glowing before the other parts.
If you decide to do micro coil plus cotton, test fire BEFORE adding the cotton. Again, you want an even glow from the center going to the sides.
Also look for hot legs. Happened to me a lot when I first tried micro coils. This is when you have long legs that don't touch wick and remain dry. Try shortening the legs or adding wick so the legs get juice as well. Hope this made sense
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Yeah... getting silica into a microcoil is a pain in the ..... I tried to get a '2 mm' wick, which appears to be closer to 1.5 mm actually, into a 1.5 mm ID MC and I couldn't get the thing in using a couple of methods. I am going to try the 'foil as a leader' method to compress the tip of the silica... or go to maybe 3/32 or 5/64 non-micro route on the coil and see if that gives the room to allow the wick to slide in without getting shredded.
I have a V5 RDA (the 'Chimbus') and I didn't have my torch with me when I got it, so I did a faux micro.... 11 wraps of 28g on that 2 mm wick, wrapped as tight as I could manage... got the coils balanced (0.6 ohm) and it's vaping really well (understatement... I look like a nuke plant cooling tower). Just did my second dry burn and it's holding up OK. I have a TON of 2 mm wick that I bought a little while back (surprisingly high quality stuff from FT) and the dual coil Chimbus I have is a juice hog and the chance of dry firing a cotton wick is fairly high unless I keep it awash with juice. Plus, more juice = shorter life of cotton wick... If I can use the silica for a bit, that gives me the option of a dry burn to extend the life of the wick.
But... on my IGO-l.... I've been running clear 'fruit' flavors, and I get up to a week out of 1 wick before I have to toss it. With a NET, it gets fouled a little, but I actually had good luck rinsing it with water then firing it just long enough to get to the point where the wick is moist, but not dry enough to burn the cotton... then deal with a little extra water vapor on the first couple of vapes. PG and VG both do a good job of absorbing water, so that 'free' water doesn't hang around long.
I have a V5 RDA (the 'Chimbus') and I didn't have my torch with me when I got it, so I did a faux micro.... 11 wraps of 28g on that 2 mm wick, wrapped as tight as I could manage... got the coils balanced (0.6 ohm) and it's vaping really well (understatement... I look like a nuke plant cooling tower). Just did my second dry burn and it's holding up OK. I have a TON of 2 mm wick that I bought a little while back (surprisingly high quality stuff from FT) and the dual coil Chimbus I have is a juice hog and the chance of dry firing a cotton wick is fairly high unless I keep it awash with juice. Plus, more juice = shorter life of cotton wick... If I can use the silica for a bit, that gives me the option of a dry burn to extend the life of the wick.
But... on my IGO-l.... I've been running clear 'fruit' flavors, and I get up to a week out of 1 wick before I have to toss it. With a NET, it gets fouled a little, but I actually had good luck rinsing it with water then firing it just long enough to get to the point where the wick is moist, but not dry enough to burn the cotton... then deal with a little extra water vapor on the first couple of vapes. PG and VG both do a good job of absorbing water, so that 'free' water doesn't hang around long.
now you are going to want to learn how to drip and drive...
or have a passenger do it for you..
or have a passenger do it for you..
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