iJoy Captain PD270 Box Mod and the iJoy 20700 Battery

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Anthony_Vapes

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The Noisy Cricket II-25 is a complicated device with more than one battery configuration option. I don't have one, but this is what I gather from the description at Wismec.

It says:
Under Cells in Series Circuit Condition, two modes are available: Direct Output mode and Constant Voltage Output mode.

Using Direct Output mode, I believe you'd be starting with 8.4V (with fully charged batteries) and the Voltage would decrease as the batteries were used. Just like an unregulated Box Mod. You'd probably stop using it at somewhere around 7.6V (a 3.8V charge on both batteries). Your mAh rating would the same as one of the batteries in the Stack.

Using Constant Voltage Output mode, you can set the Voltage via Regulation circuity. The output voltage can be adjusted from 2V to 6V. This is kinda like the old 18650 Tube Mods.

Using batteries in Parallel:
It doesn't specify whether batteries in Parallel are Regulated or not, so I'll compare that to the Cells in Series Circuit Condition above, assuming there's no Regulation.

You'd be starting with 4.2V (with fully charged batteries), and the Voltage would decrease as the batteries were used. Just like an unregulated Box Mod. You'd probably stop using it at somewhere around 3.5V to 3.8V, depending on your satisfaction with the Vape. But you'd have twice the battery life at 2x the mAh rating of one of the batteries, as compared to an unregulated box mod with a single battery.


Battery Regulation gives us many safety features, but it doesn't really change how they work together. The higher Voltage of a Series Stack allows the device to reach the higher amperage required by all of these Cloud Beast tanks that use Kanthal.

This is how batteries work together in Series in an Unregulated device (but also why they are used in Mods like the Captain), with a comparison of 18650 vs 20700. Please keep in mind that this is comparing 3000mAh batteries...

Watts = Volts x Amps. Therefore, Watts / Volts = Amps.

xx30W / 4.2V = 7.143 Amps. (single battery)
xx30W / 8.4V = 3.571 Amps. (dual series battery stack)

150W / 4.2V = 35.714 Amps. (not really safe for 18650s)
150W / 8.4V = 17.857 Amps. (well within the range of 20A 18650s)

234W / 4.2V = 55.714 Amps. (not even a 20700 can do this!)
234W / 8.4V = 27.857 Amps. (well within the range of these 30A 20700s)

Note:
The Amps drawn through both batteries in the Series stack are the same for each battery. The two mAh ratings don't add together, and there's no change in Amps supplied from batteries in Series. Three Series batteries have 3x the Voltage, but roughly the same mAh rating of one, and they all push the same Amperage. That is, the Voltage Rating of the Series Stack will a multiple of the number of batteries in the Stack, with approx. the same mAh and Amp rating of one battery (with all batteries in the stack being equal).

Now a Parallel setup is different. The Voltage of any number of batteries in a Parallel Pack will be the same as one battery in the pack (if they all have the same Voltage rating and Charge level). But the Amp and mAh rating of the Pack will be a multiple of the number of batteries that are present. So the rating of a Parallel Pack with three 4.2V batteries = 4.2V, with 3x the mAh rating and Amp rating of a singe battery (with all batteries in the Pack being equal).


I hope this helps.

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In regulated devices when calculating amp draw you should use nominal voltage max. some like to use cut off voltage but I think it's a waste as mod output won't reach much at cutoff. also not a big factor as I don't feel the need since we have plenty of head room but some like to add in a .9 multiplier for efficiency

Simple guideline. 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated mods
 

Anthony_Vapes

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In a 3 battery regulated mod, could I get away with using high mAh batteries that have lower amp ratings if I do not intend to run it above 120 watts or so? I typically fire between 55 and 130, more often on the low end around or below 70.

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Yes
If you wanted a 15 amp battery with higher mah for a triple battery mod you could push 150-165 max

If you wanted to drop to a 10 amp battery 100 watts max in a triple battery mod
 

markfm

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For battery safety planning purposes (amp draw), I use the lower end of the battery voltage range, max amps draw for a given output power.

Under typical use, a battery spends most of its time in the 3.7v zone (it drops from its 4.2 peak pretty fast).

The cutout voltage for regulated mods varies, some of the ones I've been using seem to show a low battery warning at about 3.5v (equivalent to 7v in a stacked configuration), some definitely go lower.

If I'm trying for 234W off of a 7v stack, 234/7 is a little over 33A draw, I'd definitely want a true 40A rated battery to play in that zone, especially since this is ignoring conversion losses.

The saving grace is that as the battery starts getting more depleted it'll also tend to show some real sag under heavy current draw, so might trip a low voltage "weak battery" type cutout. Of course it all depends on what protections a given regulated mod has [emoji5]
 

markfm

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In regulated devices when calculating amp draw you should use nominal voltage max. some like to use cut off voltage but I think it's a waste as mod output won't reach much at cutoff. also not a big factor as I don't feel the need since we have plenty of head room but some like to add in a .9 multiplier for efficiency

Simple guideline. 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated mods
Aka "the 3.5v cutout approach" [emoji5]
 

100%VG

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Does anyone here remember this one?...



The album came out in 1972, so it may predate some of you. But Hot n Nasty is what I just experienced from the Captain!

I rebuilt the RTA in my Horizon DUOS SUB Tank because it was leaking. Replacing an o-ring and tightening the (bigazz) Plus pin seems to have fixed that. I used a pair of Twisted 24g SS316L spaced coils that I just made, wicked it with VCC cotton, juiced it up, filled that tank, tried it at a very low Wattage on my Reuleaux DNA200 to get the juice going, and then cranked it up to 60W 420°F, and all was well. So I put it on the Captain, and set it to SS at 60W 420°F to give it a go.

Hot n Nasty!!! I could hear a Poof as the juice burst into a flame. I turned it down to 400°F, same thing. Turned it down to 50W, pretty much the same. Tried it in Power mode (on Norm) at the same 60W that it worked well with on the DNA200, but there wasn't much vapor, so I cranked it up to 80W, in 10° increments, and it still did not perform well. I think the build is ruined now. It's not working well on the DNA200, either. VCC is supposed to be able to take that, but I haven't inspected it yet.

iJoy really needs to get that Firmware Update processed and posted to their website. STAT!!!

I guess it just doesn't work well with anything more complex than a single wire build, like it did in my other tanks. But Geeze Louise! That was freaken Awful. This was over 20 minutes ago now, and my throat is still messed up. Curious that it worked OK with a pair of Twisted 26g SS316L spaced coils (setup for Temp Control, but mostly used in Power mode). Maybe I'll try again with a pair 24g Kanthal spaced single coils. If I do, I'll post about how that goes.

Looks like you were right, Anthony.
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100%VG

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My Captain says v1.1 on start up.
And if that happened to you..why did the tfv8 prebuilt .5 Clapton work on mine ?
BTW..yeahhhhh. .I kno Humble Pie.
Thx 4 reminding me of my 1/2+ century mark:D
rofl.gif


I thought that was what friends were for. :D

My Captain worked OK with everything I tried until this. So I'm just as befuddled as anyone else about this one. Who knows? Maybe they screwed something up in V1.2. :blink: Maybe this stuff develops over time. Have you tried Temp Control with SS316L yet?
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greenmachine17

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rofl.gif


I thought that was what friends were for. :D

My Captain worked OK with everything I tried until this. So I'm just as befuddled as anyone else about this one. Who knows? Maybe they screwed something up in V1.2. :blink: Maybe this stuff develops over time. Have you tried Temp Control with SS316L yet?
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SS builds?..not yet..ni200,SS bullet COILS work tho.
Do you think compacted vs spaced
builds might be a factor ?
Maybe you,@Anthony_Vapes @theclaw20 & @markfm had some suntan lotion residue on your hands from all those beach bikini bodies you've been massaging ! :headbang:
I'm married,so..my hands are clean :w00t:
 
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100%VG

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SS builds?..not yet..ni200,SS bullet COILS work tho.
Do you think compacted vs spaced builds might be a factor ?
SS bullet coils? If you mean the SS Notch coils like designed by Jaybo, mine worked with those before in an Eleaf Melo 2. And it worked with SS316L wire in simple builds, like a single coil of 28g or 26g. I'm too gunshy right now to try them again. But it was working OK with the pair of Twisted 26g SS316L spaced coils before. That's not really complex, but it isn't simple, either.

I haven't tried a Kanthal Microcoil. The DUOS SUB Tank Heads are all complex Kanthal builds with Tiger coil, Quad coil, or Clapton coil. It was working OK with Tiger and Quad before. It's doing OK with Tiger right now. But it's really cranking it out with a SS Notch coil in the Melo 2 right now, set to Temp mode in SS at 50W 400°F. A one second hit is kinda hot.

All my builds use spaced coils now, especially for Temp Control. Haven't tried Ni or Ti, either.
Maybe you,@Anthony_Vapes @theclaw20 & @markfm had some suntan lotion residue on your hands from all those beach bikini bodies you've been massaging ! :headbang:
I'm married,so..my hands are clean :w00t:
Yeah, guess I forgot about that. You married guys are missing all the fun. I have been a little busy on the beach...

17265535_1752601765055714_3837693062981615616_n.jpg


and at home...

tumblr_oizhowJChw1w0nh94o1_400.gif



:pervy:
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