I'm still Confused about tanks.
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Yes it is. I do however think my batteries are draining quicker, but I can live with that. Actually
they are 2.1, not 2.2 ohm.
Sounds like you and I purchased the same starter kit. Mine came with two batteries stamped "ego-T" near the bottom, plastic tanks and charging system - all enclosed in a case with an "eGo" plate on the front. At the time I had no idea what I was purchasing, but when I got home and compared to what I found on Joye's website, it's obvious these aren't legitimate ego-T's, but they actually worked pretty well for me. I'm vaping a Jvape Pineapple Express on one, and a Blu cartridge on the other. Not necessarily elegant, but it's performed well enough to keep me from burning analogs, and that's the most important thing.
They only have to last until Monday. By then my first Provari will arrive and sometime next week I expect the arrival of an Aspire Nautilus. Pretty amazing what a few days of research and a little disposable income can produce.
Good luck getting your problem worked out.
I'm pretty sure my eGo CE4s are bogus, too, despite having eGo buttons on them and a case with a metal plate that says eGo. I'm having issues with non-disposable tanks not quite fitting right IMHO and juice not tasting as good as out of an eRoll, even a brand new Kanger and a brand new CE4 wick-type disposable. Same juices that tasted good before and they still taste good in an eRoll, so I can't finger-point there. I'm going to have to save up and get the real thing, or something even better. I'm not at the fiddly phase yet where I'm comfortable tinkering or experimenting because I'm still a newborn vaper, so a basic eGo technically should work fine for me, but the tank/batt combos I've got are not producing tasty vapor right now. (Derp. I'm also clearly too much of a klutz to properly fill a Kanger. I seem to get juicefinger every time.)
I did order some etched eGo batts last week with a higher mAh, but they're probably bogons as well. If they work, I won't fuss.
I need to find some tanks I can fill from the top without removing them from the battery, at least until I'm less of a klutz, and which don't make good juice taste like troll buttocks after a day or two, tops. Because that's not okay. I can't afford to get a disposable a day, and I love my eRolls but they can be fiddly when you want to just settle in with one flavor for chain-vaping at home.
I did order some etched eGo batts last week with a higher mAh, but they're probably bogons as well. If they work, I won't fuss.
I need to find some tanks I can fill from the top without removing them from the battery, at least until I'm less of a klutz, and which don't make good juice taste like troll buttocks after a day or two, tops. Because that's not okay. I can't afford to get a disposable a day, and I love my eRolls but they can be fiddly when you want to just settle in with one flavor for chain-vaping at home.
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I just purchased a MINI PT2 with a 2.2 ohm today and using it with my Ego 1100 set at 3.5 volts. Seems pretty good so far. I'll update in a week or two and see how I feel then.
My eGo-T came with CE4 clearomizers. I upgraded to the wickless CE5, which are better, but not quite what I'm looking for. I plan on ordering a better set-up next weekend, as a congratulatory purchase for being smoke free. My wife, on the other hand, will be stuck with the CE5s until they crap out...she still uses analog about 5X a day or so. She says that she's find with that, and that she's getting closer to being weaned off of them.
Another option for top fill is the Kanger Uni-tank. Bottom coil, uses Evod/PT single coil heads. Just have to be careful of the spring when you need to clean/dry burn or change heads. I have several, and like them. Only poly tubes, so tank crackers are out, but otherwise vapes like most of the bottom coil units.
Based on your post above, the issue may well be the voltage setting on the twist. There is usually a small dial on the bottom of the twist that varies the voltage. Low voltage would definitely cause the issues you describe. If that is the case, start at 3.6 volts and adjust up to suite you tastes. Keep in mind that eGo is a type of battery, not a manufacturer - and quality does vary by brand.
Hope that helps.
Still liking my Mini PT2. Only problem I had with it was when I dropped it and broke the glass. No replacement parts are available at my favorite shop so I had to buy a new Mini.
Yeah, they don't like being dropped, and who does? 
Just keep it in the back of your mind and get some spares when you're ordering something else.
Just keep it in the back of your mind and get some spares when you're ordering something else.
An airflow control valve could help that Protank 2 as well. I've heard tell of people using them on the minis as well. They are less than $5 is you shop around.
I have one and it rescued me from an annoying whistle and airy draw on the Protank 3.
I have one and it rescued me from an annoying whistle and airy draw on the Protank 3.
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Hi everyone, I'm pretty new to vaping and have a c twist which I really like. I'm just a little confused about resistance and voltage. I ordered 2.5 ohm heads because I was burning out 1.8s. Will I be able to turn up the voltage with the 2.5s? Thanks!
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Sent from my HUAWEI H881C using Tapatalk
What you need to know is the wattage - Volts/ohms x Volts is one way to do it. Here is a chart to help:
bigger pic of it:
http://i.imgur.com/Ohn8o.png
You basically want to stay in the green but much depends upon flavor. Strong flavors need more heat (wattage), lighter flavors less heat. For coils you'll see that the 1.8 ohm coil gets stretched to the limit at around 4.2 volts on the Twist. And a top range for the 2.5 ohm coils would be around 4.7 Volts. But again, while you can safely run the coils with that voltage, some flavors will suffer in the higher limits of the bright green/purple area and some stronger flavors might have no taste at the low (dark green) range.
What you need to know is the wattage - Volts/ohms x Volts is one way to do it. Here is a chart to help:
bigger pic of it:
http://i.imgur.com/Ohn8o.png
You basically want to stay in the green but much depends upon flavor. Strong flavors need more heat (wattage), lighter flavors less heat. For coils you'll see that the 1.8 ohm coil gets stretched to the limit at around 4.2 volts on the Twist. And a top range for the 2.5 ohm coils would be around 4.7 Volts. But again, while you can safely run the coils with that voltage, some flavors will suffer in the higher limits of the bright green/purple area and some stronger flavors might have no taste at the low (dark green) range.
Thank you, the chart explains it!
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there is a lot more to they vaping than I thought, but I find it interesting and it's a new hobby of mine. I can't believe I smoked for so long, cigarettes are so nasty. Another question I have is regarding tanks. Does anyone recommend the metal mt3s over the t3s clearomizer? What are the advantages and disadvantages? Thanks!
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Sent from my HUAWEI H881C using Tapatalk
They are both plastic; the mt3s has a metal shield protector.
I recommend glass/pyrex.
Hi Skittles.
First of all, there is no such thing as an eGo brand anymore, so don't feel bad. There is "eGo-style." The original eGo battery was invented by Janty and produced by Joyetech, but it's been copied, cloned and reinterpreted a million times since. I'm sure your twist is just fine.
Your starter-kit battery is probably a generic eGo-style battery that may be 3.4 or a 3.7v device--can't tell without knowing what exactly you have. Your Twist, whether it's a genuine battery or not, is a variable voltage device, which means you can adjust the voltage to your liking--depending on the resistance of your atomizers. Here's a little explanation:
Disclaimer: This is the most simplistic explanation and is addressed to new vapers or vapers who are happy within the recommended "just right" power zone (4.5-8 watts) and use stock coils.
Ohm's Law as it pertains to vaping is really not that complicated--and it's very useful when you want to know what you're doing.
Voltage and wattage are often misunderstood by new vapers. Wattage is the power (heat, sweet spot) that your PV (battery and atomizer) generates. Wattage = Voltage (of your battery) squared divided by Resistance (Ω) of your atomizer [P=V[SUP]2[/SUP]/R]. If you're not good at math, don't worry, use this easy calculator:
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
Of course, if you own a VW (variable wattage) device, you don't really need this calculator because your device will do the math for you.
The wattage you want, especially at the beginning of your vaping career, should be somewhere between 4.5 and 8.5 Watts. Anything lower than 4.5 watts may not vaporize your juice properly and will not produce enough warmth and vapor. Anything above 8.5 watts increases the risk of burning the filler in your cartomizers (if you're using them) and even some juices, especially the delicate ones.
There are, of course, other variables, like eliquid and JDD (juice delivery devices) that you're using on your batteries. Seven watts on a filler type cartomizer may feel different than the same 7 watts on a fillerless clearomizer or a dripping atomizer. The same is true for different eliquids; tobaccos, chocolate and coffees generally require more wattage (heat), while fruit and other delicate flavors do better with less heat. Everyone's sweet spot is different--those are just very general guidelines.
If you are using dual coil atomizers, things get a bit more confusing. Dual coil atties consist of two coils configured in parallel, which means that a 2.1Ω atty is really two 4.2Ω coils--so you have to calculate your wattage based on the 4.2Ω number--not 2.1Ω--roughly. Dual coil atties require more wattage than singles, but not quite twice as much. They produce more vapor due to increased surface. I usually increase the power (wattage) by 30-50% when using dual coils; for example, if I like 6 watts with a single coil atty, I start at 8-9 watts with a dual coil atty. That's just my preference--YMMV. When in doubt--start low and adjust up as needed.
The chart that Kent posted is very good guide.
Now, once you figure out the volts and ohms and your wattage, examine your toppers carefully and check their resistance. Then adjust the battery voltage to suit the resistance of your coils.
Only then can you start comparing different toppers and finding your favorites. For eGo-style batteries, I like Kanger BCC clearos--T3S, mini T3S and mini ProTanks 2. I also like Aspire BDC (bottom dual coil) eGo threaded heads.
Good luck and happy vaping!
They vape the same, since, other than the metal wrap, they are the same.
When I use them, I prefer the T over the MT. It's easier to see the juice level. The MT may be a bit more "robust" due to the armor, but I've had no breakage problems with either.
Of course, if you're trying to match the topper to a colored battery, you might be able to find an MT that does that, or complements it.
Agree with David...... MT3 is the same as the T3 but with added weight of the metal skin and only a slot to see the level of eliquid.
Here's the T3 line:
T3 - 3ml tank polycarbonate - works well with most flavors except hot cinnamon and heavy menthol. Base and coil unit is one piece. 1.8, 2.2, and 2.4-26 ohm coils available. Discontinued.
T3S - same as T3, single bottom coil, Base and coil unit separate - so cheaper replacement coils. Replacement coils can be used on T3 with base, and work on all earlier Kanger clearos. But not the PT2 or evod2.
T3D - same as T3, dual bottom coil. Base and coil separate, but can't be used on earlier models. But the coils can be used on the newer protank 3 and evod 2. Removable drip tip.
There's also a "baby" (or mini) T3" sold by sun vapors. 1.7ml tank instead of 3ml.
Here's the T3 line:
T3 - 3ml tank polycarbonate - works well with most flavors except hot cinnamon and heavy menthol. Base and coil unit is one piece. 1.8, 2.2, and 2.4-26 ohm coils available. Discontinued.
T3S - same as T3, single bottom coil, Base and coil unit separate - so cheaper replacement coils. Replacement coils can be used on T3 with base, and work on all earlier Kanger clearos. But not the PT2 or evod2.
T3D - same as T3, dual bottom coil. Base and coil separate, but can't be used on earlier models. But the coils can be used on the newer protank 3 and evod 2. Removable drip tip.
There's also a "baby" (or mini) T3" sold by sun vapors. 1.7ml tank instead of 3ml.
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