IMR (High Drain) vs IC (Protected)

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werkkrew

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As a result of this thread I posted:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...il-lr-510-carto-tank-setup-silver-bullet.html

I looked a bit closer at the batteries I got for my Silver Bullet, and it turns out they are not IMR batteries, but rather AW IC 3100mAh Protected Batteries. Should I have ordered the AW IMR 2000mAh Batteries instead?

Can someone explain the primary differences along with the expected results one hopes to achieve when choosing one or the other?

Could my experiences with dual coil cartos on a 3.7v mod being very weak be due to my choice in battery?
 

forcedfuel50

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As a result of this thread I posted:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...il-lr-510-carto-tank-setup-silver-bullet.html

I looked a bit closer at the batteries I got for my Silver Bullet, and it turns out they are not IMR batteries, but rather AW IC 3100mAh Protected Batteries. Should I have ordered the AW IMR 2000mAh Batteries instead?

Can someone explain the primary differences along with the expected results one hopes to achieve when choosing one or the other?

Could my experiences with dual coil cartos on a 3.7v mod being very weak be due to my choice in battery?

The AW protected 3100, 2900 or 2600mah protected batteries have plenty of amperage to drive a LR dual coil. The 2600mah has the most power of the three (both in its ability to hold higher voltage under load and higher useable mah), but the 2900mah and 3100mah still have more then enough to run them. You may see a small gain initially with running an IMR, but at 1/3 of the way through the power the IMR gets passed by.

If you do go with the IMR, go with the IMR 1600mah over the 2000mah if you are using it in a non variable voltage mod like the SB as it holds a bit higher voltage under load.

Don't be fooled by the higher mah on the charts of some batteries, its all out on the tail end and at voltages to low to be of use in an ecig.

One of our employees here who started ecigs about 2 months ago drives her LR dual coil smoketech cartomizers (these are all she vapes) exclusively with the Protected 18500 battery with no problems.

Heres some load testing charts, all done at 2.5 amps to simulate the draw of LR atomizer for your reference comparing them:

AW IMR 1600, AW Protected 2600 and 2900ma
AW1865testresults.jpg


AW Protected 2600, 2900 and 3100:
AW18650test.jpg


AW IMR 18650 1600 and 2000:
1600v2000.jpg
 
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WillyB

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Let me throw something out there. I gotta admit I like David's style.

BestinOne makes some reasonably priced IMRs.

Here's a comparison test against the AWs, at a fairly heavy 3A drain.

AWimr_Best_IN_aw.gif


Someone doing a quick initial load volts test like you tend to see in vids would probably dismiss the $4.60 18650 BestinOne, the AW certainly comes out of the chute better. But look what happens at about the 500mAh mark.

And as far as actual vaping mAh, I personally would never want to drop/vape below 3.3V and at that point the BIO still has some legs.

I also think many folks would actually appreciate the much more even vaping the BIOs would seem to provide.

Food for thought. :)
 

DaveP

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My understanding of IMR vs standard protected Li-ion batteries is that the IMR is safer in failure mode than the protected Li-ion if the Li-ion cutoff protection fails to act in time. Is it true that a failing IMR produces intense heat and some spewing, but not an explosion? There's lots of conjecture about which 18650 equivalent batteries to use in a tube mod lately, since some blowups have occurred.

I certainly don't want flames, noxious gases, and flying metal particles occurring in my tube mod. If excess heat can signal me to take it out side where it can fail, set it down, and let it cool, then that's a much better warning than a sudden hiss, followed by rocket exhaust, and missing body parts.

I'm looking for battery choice safety advice in my next purchase of something like a Lavatube or Vtube design. I'm thinking that an AW IMR is a better choice than protected Li-ion in an 18650 style battery.
 

Strontium

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My understanding of IMR vs standard protected Li-ion batteries is that the IMR is safer in failure mode than the protected Li-ion if the Li-ion cutoff protection fails to act in time. Is it true that a failing IMR produces intense heat and some spewing, but not an explosion? There's lots of conjecture about which 18650 equivalent batteries to use in a tube mod lately, since some blowups have occurred.

I certainly don't want flames, noxious gases, and flying metal particles occurring in my tube mod. If excess heat can signal me to take it out side where it can fail, set it down, and let it cool, then that's a much better warning than a sudden hiss, followed by rocket exhaust, and missing body parts.

I'm looking for battery choice safety advice in my next purchase of something like a Lavatube or Vtube design. I'm thinking that an AW IMR is a better choice than protected Li-ion in an 18650 style battery.

IMR will melt everything around because of really high current that can provide (much more than actually needed).

There is another thread on this forum where people talking about that Panasonic CGR18650CH.

It seems that Panasonic has figured out some new system, that beats IMR in all tests.
 

Rocketman

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Oh, it's alive.
Bigger batteries (18650) blow up in flashlights, but we assume their use is different from vaping. A high powered flashlight draws 20 to 30 watts. Hot wire light draw high start up current. HID light draw 25 to 40 watts.
A vaper only draws 8 to 10 watts. Different, right? Wrong. Some vapers are already vaping at 20 watts. And we short things out often. That's one of the reasons some don't like the eGos. Shorts kill them. We want something that will keep going after a short :)

Once the high voltage vaper, hitting the itty bitty cells stacked for 5 to 6 volts with a LR atty find out 15 to 20 watts is too much for the little batteries, they will go to stacked 18650 cells. Then we will have real men vaping 20 to 30 watts. Then we will be testing the limit for the big cells.

How is 20 watts from a marginal power source different.
 
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Strontium

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I think the discussion is very live, especially with batteries blowing up in peoples' faces. The more who read the discussions the more savvy they will be. So, you think my question was rhetorical?

Thank you Dave,

For a moment I thought I am in a year old (dead) thread.

Nothing wrong with getting more info on 18650 cells.

We learn something new everyday.

Let information flow.
 

Shibby McThrice

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This is actually what I'm trying to decipher as well. Don't really want to hijack the thread, but I'm trying to gain some knowledge, which I think is what these forums were used for. I am planning on purchasing a precise plus, and the options for batteries are AW Protected 18650 new version 2600 mah batteries or AW IMR 18650 high drain batteries. I'm trying to figure out which would be preferred and why. I think Werkkrew is wondering as well. Thanks!
 

Chosen_1

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I want to use 2 18650 aw in my mod. Here is what I wanted.
Well I build my own wood mods and wanted to run 2 batts in it but keeping it at 3.7v or the normal volts a battery uses from fully charged to 3.4vs.

Which way do I set up the batts? I read here that the 2600mahs are better for this use?

I was just going to post about the same thing in the first post in this thread.
 
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