Yeah, being 3 batts in series, I would have guessed 12 or so, but I guess that would have to be on a full charge. I can see why they limited it to 9V.I would've guessed 12, but 9v it is.
Looks like 9.00V from what Dirk gathered:
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I dunno, seems pretty good to me?? I mean, it's not DNA200 accurate, but that's better than a lot of the China mods I've seen.Interesting that, since some other member has been going around the forum posting those accuracy charts, but saying what a horrible mod it is.
The price is definitely nice but I'll have to order 6 new batteries for it. It's gonna be close to $90 for the mod and batteries.@Bman123, check out Dirk's chart, based off his findings, I'd guess with a .4ohm build you could get down at like 165-170 actual watts.
Not bad for the asking price if you ask me.
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So, checked out ohm's law, and with .4 and 9v, that'd be 202W, so take in the accuracy decrease, split the difference between the .27ohm build(6%) and the .51ohm build(2%) and say 4%, you'd be looking at around 190 actual watts.
I vaped it yesterday all day at 110W on my VCMT, and at the end of the night I was at 3.6v on the batts.The price is definitely nice but I'll have to order 6 new batteries for it. It's gonna be close to $90 for the mod and batteries.
I wonder how long that sucker lasts vaping at 150+ watts with a rda before the batteries need changed out.
I've got a nitecore D4 charger and charging 3-4 batteries at a time takes a while with it only putting out 500mah per battery
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Well get to it lol, thanks for the input I appreciate itI vaped it yesterday all day at 110W on my VCMT, and at the end of the night I was at 3.6v on the batts.
I would imagine you could get through a work day, and then back home into early evening at 150W, but don't quote me on that, I haven't tried it that high yet.
I haven't got the faintest notion. And I wish I did. You'd have to figure out total surface area (a nightmare in topology!) and divide it into total watts applied, less (an estimate for) I^2R losses on the board. My brain hurts.How do you figure out heat flux for a dual Clapton build?
That fella got roasted the other day.Interesting that, since some other member has been going around the forum posting those accuracy charts, but saying what a horrible mod it is.
Well yes he did! 2thread members did a pretty decent job!That fella got roasted the other day.![]()
Oddly enough, depending on what resistance I am shooting for, I really like twisted 28s, 30s and 32s. I use steam engine to tell me the mW/mm^2 and I keep it in the green, adjusting mandrel size for wick requirements and total coil resistance, and wire size for heat flux. Sooperdooper fancy coil builds are great if you've got 200 watts to heat them. But I'm used to making the coils work on a tube mech, where 40 watts makes me sweat stressing the battery. I just realized I wasted my money on this Reo. What I really wanted for Christmas was a 4-point Kelvin probe Micro Ohmmeter.Suprtrkr, do you have any more favorite builds?? This parallel 28 gauge is really really good! Thanks again!! and my batteries will last longer!! Great ramp up time, awesome clouds, flavor, and not too hot!!
Haha, I left the RX200 at home, didn't want to bring a 18650 charger on the road with me. Maybe over the Holiday, I'll build something in my phenotype that can hang at 150w+ and get back to you.Well get to it lol, thanks for the input I appreciate it
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