Informal Poll: what vg level do you use in RTAs?
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All setups are in my signature, as far as vg, it varies between each diy. I mix for max Vg then add a few drops of water, Never use above 3% water otherwise it's too thin. Consistency wise it about 70%vg after all the mixing.
@ Roxy,
100VG
&
Temperature Protect
Rose V2 & GT V2
Both factors can be very restraining though through modification I can get any atty to work or work better than it did OEM. A few right out of the box work great. Since the DNA40 was released I switched to TP and have never looked back.
I have seen videos that show "high" VG being used in various atomizers but it is no where near as viscous as my DIY from VZ 100VG juice. When watching videos or trying a tank, build or flavor for the first time, I note how long the air bubbles take to reach the surface inside the tank and note how long it takes the liquid to slosh when the tank is tilted. I run 100VG with no flavoring added on first use tanks or build techniques just to see how it reacts and what modifications may be needed. Then repeat as flavoring is added and sometimes just a few drops of water just to see how it improves. I have noticed my juice has a viscosity similar to motor oil. When I tilt the tank there is a slight pause in the movement and it moves slowly. When air bubbles form at the juice channels it is not uncommon for them to take 15-30 seconds to get to the surface sometimes getting stuck requiring me to tilt or shake the tank to clear them. Thinner juices including "high" VG slosh more like water and bubbles reach the surface from 1 to 5s. I have done my own tests timing bubbles and the time it takes the juice in the tank to reach a point after a tilt and find that just one drop of water, PG or flavoring in a 2-4ml tank makes an improvement and the viscosity lessons with every drop added.
The tilt and bubble tests don't seem to be very dependent on the atty. One exception is the bubble test where there is insufficient clearance for the bubble in certain attys i.e. where the clearance from the tank to chimney is too small.
Personal favorites that work great with 100VG and TP:
Rose V2 Authentic and Clones and derivatives (e.g. Kaiser)
Taifun GT2 Authentic and Hotcig GTII-S and derivatives (e.g. Hurricanes)
Note: a few of the TGT clones have a very close tolerance between the inside of the glass tank and the outside of the knurled chimney cap and can trap air bubbles released from the juice channels with 100VG. These can be improved by filing and grinding the knurling off the top cap at the juice channels. The Authentic and Hotcig do not have this problem. dwcraig has listed several that are good in the Taifun thread. I used to recommend Kayfuns to friends and family, now I recommend the GTII-S.
Work out of the box but not a favorite:
Lemo * V2 - lacks flavor compared to favorites but better air flow
All Kayfuns and derivatives (way too many to mention) - lacks flavor compared to favorites
Squape-R - lacks flavor compared to favorites
Focloud - dual coils tough to build for TP
Aqua V2 - very versatile can even be a dripper, good flavor, not as good performance as favorites
The KF V4 required modification for both TP and 100VG for both the Authentic and clones including the 28mm version. It does have good flavor but doesn't perform nearly as well (power handling and vapor production) as the favorites. For TP, lose the spring and put a washer under the square bottom pin, for 100VG drill out the juice channel holes. Notes: the gold plated spring helps but doesn't fix the issue with Ni200. If using a higher overall resistance TP coil material (ie closer to 1ohm versus .1ohm), the spring becomes less of an issue.
The rest work with modification:
Billow V2
Erls and derivatives
Aqua & V2
Aromamizer
Foggers V.X & Big
Wolverine
RSBTII
Silverplay
Goblin
GS
Orchid V.X
Gobs of KF derivatives like the Wine, Big Tank, Gem, Monster etc. Even the Lemos are KF just with bigger airflow.
I have over two dozen RTAs most are derivatives of basic designs like the kayfun fogger or flash. I still have a couple genisys style like the Arnold and RSST but have not used them in a long time. These are just the more notable ones. Modifications can be as simple as fixing posts that cut the soft Ni200 coil legs or using a different coil wire which has nothing to do with 100VG. Or they can be as extensive as putting them on my micromark milling machine to enlarge juice channels which has everything to do with 100VG. In the case of the wolverine, it was missing critical parts to enable a seal at the top of the tank but was simple to rectify and then worked great with 100VG and TP.
Honorable mention to Flash e type RTAs. I just don't find them as easy to use or as good a performer as my favorites but they will work out of the box with no modification.
Clearomizers, Glassomizers ie cartridge based attys with and without RBA sections are more susceptible to TP issues than 100VG but that is not a hard fast rule. Some have issues with both some have issues with neither and every combination thereof. I have always been able to rebuild TP cartridges that gave better performance with 100VG than OEM. And just about every RBA section performs worse than the cartridge counterpart. The massive vertical coil concept is just hard to beat. I would like to see an RBA section for these that has a screw at the bottom pin and a screw on the top cartridge casing at the chimney exit. And when it warms up, this is one of my intended projects this year.
Crown
Titan
Morph
Chariot
TFV4
D-Rex
Storm
Atlantis and derivatives
Sub-Tank and derivatives
SKing
Squonk Tanks work very well with 100VG though the only two I have need improvement for airflow to be directed under coil.
Fountain
Super Hero
I have ordered a bachelor and a firebird. The bachelor looks very promising and could well become my new favorite more like a rose derivative. The firebird is a Taifun/Hurricane derivative and promises to work just as well.
There is one modification that I believe will work well with 100VG. But it requires small machining or 3D printing. This is another project I want to try to work on this year. All tanks will vacuum lock depending on build. I.E. when you first fill them they work great until the vacuum in the top of the tank reaches a point the atty stops flowing juice as well. Note: "not as well" not "stop all together". Without this vacuum the tank will leak out until it is empty. And while that vacuum is beneficial in that stops leaking it also restricts juice flow while vaping. This can be alleviated by build, ie wicking to a certain degree, and then by inverting, unscrewing the top or fill port or tank or any method to release the vacuum in the top of the tank. What I want to see is a device that does this automatically by the shear act of inhale ie when you vape. I am thinking of an all mechanical simple valve using a spring wound from kanthal, a BB, a set screw and some holes. Depending on the tank topper it may require a tube or block of material. Basically, a spring loaded, vacuum actuated, ball valve that will open the tank top to ambient air when you inhale and then close when you stop inhaling. Something like this:
I also have high hopes for ceramic or ceramic encased heaters. To date, the ceramic I have tried include the vapin donuts, Hygeia, Scylla, Vaporesso cCell. The donuts don't support TP but they worked really well in a Kaiser and 100VG. I was able to modify a Hygeia cartridge or two that worked better at flowing 100VG and with Ni200. The Scylla and Vaporesso get bloody hot but do work with 100VG although a lot better with less viscous juice. I also look forward to the Altus and it's derivatives. A future project is making my own hollow tube ceramic cores that have much greater porosity for 100VG.
Ultimately the issue with VG is one of juice flow and wicking. To this end I find Rayon works better for wick core builds (wire wrapped around wick) and KGD works better for coil center builds (wick wrapped around coil). In both cases the shortest wick path possible is preferential. One of the best performing wick techniques I use is a hollow core SS mesh with one or two layers of mesh wrapped with a single layer of the outside layer from a KGD pad thinned as mush as possible with a coil wrapped around it. The GT accommodates these really well. Coil cartridges with large vertical coils with KGD and SS mesh wrapped around them work really well too, but the contact through compression on the coil legs can be an issue with TP. These types can allow the shortest path length to every part of every wrap of the coil. In the case of the GT, about .5mm. So the juice has to travel .5mm through one or two layers of 400-500 mesh SS and a single layer of KGD to get to every part of every wrap of the coil. Performance is outstanding. Sustaining 24W on a single 2mm coil in TP at 360F while chain vaping. Increase the TP set temp and 30W+ is no issue. Mill the juice channels in the GT chimney to 3mm and use a 4mm coil and 30W+ is no issue. Combine both of these techniques and upwards of 50W is achievable. Though I have found 24W produces as much vapor as I want and anything less than 18W is anemic. I did a big fogger and wolverine build that could sustain 40W+ in TP. And that was just way too much.
Note, I have had many OEM TP coil cartridges that claim very large power numbers, 45W or more. Printed right on them. In TP set to 360F and with my 100VG that just doesn't happen. More like 12-24W. Increase set temp to 450F or more and sure. But the atty gets so hot it starts discoloring my 100VG juice with no flavoring. Even with glass tanks and SS tops and bottoms.
I also have a project in mind for ultrasonic vaporizers or spinning wheel vaporizers. I picked up a 100W transducer and board but have yet to fashion a tank. I did try a small essential oil ultrasound vaporizer and it did provide a tiny amount of vapor with 100VG but worked better with PG. It was a measely 8W. It now sits on the table as a room freshener as it was meant to. Some room vaporizers use a spinning wheel that has a parabolic shape with internal tubes that draws liquid in through bottom narrow inlet and slings them out the large top edge. I haven't tried one yet with VG but they work with water fantastic.
Sorry for the long post Roxy but I am glad you asked the question. LOL it struck a "chord". Very few people run 100VG and it can be very restraining. Couple that with TP and low temp settings and the problem gets compounded. But there are ways to make it all work better even as simple as not running 100VG by adding a few drops of flavoring. In a nutshell, I would like to see better RBA sections hat have screws for the vertical coil legs, more porous ceramic tube wicks, vacuum top valves and heat coil-less techs like spinning wheels or ultrasonics.
HTH,
100VG
&
Temperature Protect
Rose V2 & GT V2
Both factors can be very restraining though through modification I can get any atty to work or work better than it did OEM. A few right out of the box work great. Since the DNA40 was released I switched to TP and have never looked back.
I have seen videos that show "high" VG being used in various atomizers but it is no where near as viscous as my DIY from VZ 100VG juice. When watching videos or trying a tank, build or flavor for the first time, I note how long the air bubbles take to reach the surface inside the tank and note how long it takes the liquid to slosh when the tank is tilted. I run 100VG with no flavoring added on first use tanks or build techniques just to see how it reacts and what modifications may be needed. Then repeat as flavoring is added and sometimes just a few drops of water just to see how it improves. I have noticed my juice has a viscosity similar to motor oil. When I tilt the tank there is a slight pause in the movement and it moves slowly. When air bubbles form at the juice channels it is not uncommon for them to take 15-30 seconds to get to the surface sometimes getting stuck requiring me to tilt or shake the tank to clear them. Thinner juices including "high" VG slosh more like water and bubbles reach the surface from 1 to 5s. I have done my own tests timing bubbles and the time it takes the juice in the tank to reach a point after a tilt and find that just one drop of water, PG or flavoring in a 2-4ml tank makes an improvement and the viscosity lessons with every drop added.
The tilt and bubble tests don't seem to be very dependent on the atty. One exception is the bubble test where there is insufficient clearance for the bubble in certain attys i.e. where the clearance from the tank to chimney is too small.
Personal favorites that work great with 100VG and TP:
Rose V2 Authentic and Clones and derivatives (e.g. Kaiser)
Taifun GT2 Authentic and Hotcig GTII-S and derivatives (e.g. Hurricanes)
Note: a few of the TGT clones have a very close tolerance between the inside of the glass tank and the outside of the knurled chimney cap and can trap air bubbles released from the juice channels with 100VG. These can be improved by filing and grinding the knurling off the top cap at the juice channels. The Authentic and Hotcig do not have this problem. dwcraig has listed several that are good in the Taifun thread. I used to recommend Kayfuns to friends and family, now I recommend the GTII-S.
Work out of the box but not a favorite:
Lemo * V2 - lacks flavor compared to favorites but better air flow
All Kayfuns and derivatives (way too many to mention) - lacks flavor compared to favorites
Squape-R - lacks flavor compared to favorites
Focloud - dual coils tough to build for TP
Aqua V2 - very versatile can even be a dripper, good flavor, not as good performance as favorites
The KF V4 required modification for both TP and 100VG for both the Authentic and clones including the 28mm version. It does have good flavor but doesn't perform nearly as well (power handling and vapor production) as the favorites. For TP, lose the spring and put a washer under the square bottom pin, for 100VG drill out the juice channel holes. Notes: the gold plated spring helps but doesn't fix the issue with Ni200. If using a higher overall resistance TP coil material (ie closer to 1ohm versus .1ohm), the spring becomes less of an issue.
The rest work with modification:
Billow V2
Erls and derivatives
Aqua & V2
Aromamizer
Foggers V.X & Big
Wolverine
RSBTII
Silverplay
Goblin
GS
Orchid V.X
Gobs of KF derivatives like the Wine, Big Tank, Gem, Monster etc. Even the Lemos are KF just with bigger airflow.
I have over two dozen RTAs most are derivatives of basic designs like the kayfun fogger or flash. I still have a couple genisys style like the Arnold and RSST but have not used them in a long time. These are just the more notable ones. Modifications can be as simple as fixing posts that cut the soft Ni200 coil legs or using a different coil wire which has nothing to do with 100VG. Or they can be as extensive as putting them on my micromark milling machine to enlarge juice channels which has everything to do with 100VG. In the case of the wolverine, it was missing critical parts to enable a seal at the top of the tank but was simple to rectify and then worked great with 100VG and TP.
Honorable mention to Flash e type RTAs. I just don't find them as easy to use or as good a performer as my favorites but they will work out of the box with no modification.
Clearomizers, Glassomizers ie cartridge based attys with and without RBA sections are more susceptible to TP issues than 100VG but that is not a hard fast rule. Some have issues with both some have issues with neither and every combination thereof. I have always been able to rebuild TP cartridges that gave better performance with 100VG than OEM. And just about every RBA section performs worse than the cartridge counterpart. The massive vertical coil concept is just hard to beat. I would like to see an RBA section for these that has a screw at the bottom pin and a screw on the top cartridge casing at the chimney exit. And when it warms up, this is one of my intended projects this year.
Crown
Titan
Morph
Chariot
TFV4
D-Rex
Storm
Atlantis and derivatives
Sub-Tank and derivatives
SKing
Squonk Tanks work very well with 100VG though the only two I have need improvement for airflow to be directed under coil.
Fountain
Super Hero
I have ordered a bachelor and a firebird. The bachelor looks very promising and could well become my new favorite more like a rose derivative. The firebird is a Taifun/Hurricane derivative and promises to work just as well.
There is one modification that I believe will work well with 100VG. But it requires small machining or 3D printing. This is another project I want to try to work on this year. All tanks will vacuum lock depending on build. I.E. when you first fill them they work great until the vacuum in the top of the tank reaches a point the atty stops flowing juice as well. Note: "not as well" not "stop all together". Without this vacuum the tank will leak out until it is empty. And while that vacuum is beneficial in that stops leaking it also restricts juice flow while vaping. This can be alleviated by build, ie wicking to a certain degree, and then by inverting, unscrewing the top or fill port or tank or any method to release the vacuum in the top of the tank. What I want to see is a device that does this automatically by the shear act of inhale ie when you vape. I am thinking of an all mechanical simple valve using a spring wound from kanthal, a BB, a set screw and some holes. Depending on the tank topper it may require a tube or block of material. Basically, a spring loaded, vacuum actuated, ball valve that will open the tank top to ambient air when you inhale and then close when you stop inhaling. Something like this:
I also have high hopes for ceramic or ceramic encased heaters. To date, the ceramic I have tried include the vapin donuts, Hygeia, Scylla, Vaporesso cCell. The donuts don't support TP but they worked really well in a Kaiser and 100VG. I was able to modify a Hygeia cartridge or two that worked better at flowing 100VG and with Ni200. The Scylla and Vaporesso get bloody hot but do work with 100VG although a lot better with less viscous juice. I also look forward to the Altus and it's derivatives. A future project is making my own hollow tube ceramic cores that have much greater porosity for 100VG.
Ultimately the issue with VG is one of juice flow and wicking. To this end I find Rayon works better for wick core builds (wire wrapped around wick) and KGD works better for coil center builds (wick wrapped around coil). In both cases the shortest wick path possible is preferential. One of the best performing wick techniques I use is a hollow core SS mesh with one or two layers of mesh wrapped with a single layer of the outside layer from a KGD pad thinned as mush as possible with a coil wrapped around it. The GT accommodates these really well. Coil cartridges with large vertical coils with KGD and SS mesh wrapped around them work really well too, but the contact through compression on the coil legs can be an issue with TP. These types can allow the shortest path length to every part of every wrap of the coil. In the case of the GT, about .5mm. So the juice has to travel .5mm through one or two layers of 400-500 mesh SS and a single layer of KGD to get to every part of every wrap of the coil. Performance is outstanding. Sustaining 24W on a single 2mm coil in TP at 360F while chain vaping. Increase the TP set temp and 30W+ is no issue. Mill the juice channels in the GT chimney to 3mm and use a 4mm coil and 30W+ is no issue. Combine both of these techniques and upwards of 50W is achievable. Though I have found 24W produces as much vapor as I want and anything less than 18W is anemic. I did a big fogger and wolverine build that could sustain 40W+ in TP. And that was just way too much.
Note, I have had many OEM TP coil cartridges that claim very large power numbers, 45W or more. Printed right on them. In TP set to 360F and with my 100VG that just doesn't happen. More like 12-24W. Increase set temp to 450F or more and sure. But the atty gets so hot it starts discoloring my 100VG juice with no flavoring. Even with glass tanks and SS tops and bottoms.
I also have a project in mind for ultrasonic vaporizers or spinning wheel vaporizers. I picked up a 100W transducer and board but have yet to fashion a tank. I did try a small essential oil ultrasound vaporizer and it did provide a tiny amount of vapor with 100VG but worked better with PG. It was a measely 8W. It now sits on the table as a room freshener as it was meant to. Some room vaporizers use a spinning wheel that has a parabolic shape with internal tubes that draws liquid in through bottom narrow inlet and slings them out the large top edge. I haven't tried one yet with VG but they work with water fantastic.
Sorry for the long post Roxy but I am glad you asked the question. LOL it struck a "chord". Very few people run 100VG and it can be very restraining. Couple that with TP and low temp settings and the problem gets compounded. But there are ways to make it all work better even as simple as not running 100VG by adding a few drops of flavoring. In a nutshell, I would like to see better RBA sections hat have screws for the vertical coil legs, more porous ceramic tube wicks, vacuum top valves and heat coil-less techs like spinning wheels or ultrasonics.
HTH,
@350ZMO
Dude, awesome post.
Definitely going to be cutting down on my water and maybe just amp the flavor/sweetener.
My goal is to vape:
Candy tasting clouds.
I will master this...
Thanks. I have no doubt you will. If you have questions, many here can help. Roxy has gobs of experience. There is nothing wrong with water it just dilutes the flavor. But please be careful ramping flavoring. Here are some good reads:
Vegetable Glycerin or Glycerol (C3H8O3) starts decomposing into acetaldehyde, acrolein at around 536 degrees Fahrenheit (536F), reference:
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=184.1666
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrolein
Ethanol can decompose at temperatures around 440F making common baking flavor extracts problematic, reference:
https://www.princeton.edu/~combust/research/publications/Ethanol%20Decomposition%20(Li%20et%20al%20J%20Phys%20Chem%20A,In%20Press%202004).pdf
Cotton and Rayon are cellulose. Cellulose begins decomposing at 430F, reference:
http://www.slac.stanford.edu/econf/C0908211/pdf/021.pdf
I have done my own tests with a thermocouple and cellulose and note it decomposes even at 410F if you let it "cook" long enough. But add some juice and it doesn't.
Although I do not use PG, it is interesting to note that its decomposition temperature is 329F, reference:
http://www.pharmcoaaper.com/pages/MSDS/MSDS_P/propylene_glycol.pdf
Sugar or sucrose decomposes at 367F, reference:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sucrose
Note this does not account for flavors. One of my favorite flavors that I have discontinued is simple vanilla that I extracted from vanilla beans myself with 100VG, no alcohol, just room temperature and time. And just from the beans, over 60 flavor compounds (reference below) have been identified along with vanillin the primary flavor compound we’re interested in.
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/bk-1992-0506.ch004
And there is lots more to consider. I have yet to research these other compounds or other favorites like chocolate or artificial sweeteners. Basically everything breaks down under heat/temperature and time. Flavorings and sweeteners are still in my mind a large unknown. Though I do use them. Apple and pumpkin pie, bubble gum, strawberry, etc. I have even used alcohol based flavorings from the baking aisle.
So yes just switching over to vaping vice smoking is a huge positive step. But as we add ingredients other than water to lower the viscosity of 100VG I think we need to know more. I can also say that I have felt mouth, tongue, throat or lung affects from some of those and not others. Vanilla which I like being one of the worst for my throat which is why I discontinued using it. I can say the same for any alcohol based flavoring even if you add VG and let the alcohol evaporate (room temperature). So I don't recommend them. And forget any flavoring that uses jalapeno for throat hit. So far I have had no such issues with Capella Flavors. And while I'm sitting here rocking this pumpkin pie...one drop per tank full, I don't know everything I should about it though it tastes real good and I have had no issues with it whatsoever other than its hard to put down. LOL.
HTH,
Your welcome. Yeah Roxy I find your experiences in atomizers to be very close to mine, I always take note when you say a certain atty is good. At this point I almost always just order it. LOL Though I might try an inexpensive clone first if the authentic is expensive and then if it proves out, I go for the authentic. In the case of Focloud you get both authentic and inexpensive.
350ZMO, thanks for posting the MSDS for PG. I found it interesting that the decomposition point for PG was 329F and the boiling point was 410F. I guess that the decomposition point is the point where vapor begins to rise from PG. Most of us listen for a sizzling or boiling sound and control it just below the popping point.
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You're welcome. What vapor? Makes ya wonder don't it? I don't know.
Keep in mind that VG boiling point is 554F also higher than its decomp temp. And since I run at 360F and have checked the DNAs with a thermocouple and they are within 1 degree of set temp, I can tell you my 100VG is producing gobs of vapor at way less than decomp or boiling points.
Glycerol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
But yeah, the low decomposition temperature in of itself is...interesting. So lets just assume it is decomposing even in a mix of VG. Decomposing into what and are those harmful or innocuous? And then what are those boiling points and do they decompose at what temperature and so on and so forth. I am sure the data is out there I just haven't seen it yet as I haven't looked. I don't use PG.
But there is data on the chemicals found in e-Cigarette vapor that use, among other ingredients, PG and VG. But no mention of coil temperature that I can find. And what I have found comes from cig-a-likes from the convenience store. So not TP and who knows what flavor ingredients.
So far it appears to me that it is taking more effort to scientifically refute bad research than the effort being put to produce good research. But there is hope, here are some excellent reads:
Konstantinos E Farsalinos - Publications
Ummm... what's an RTA? I'm really not sure. I started with RBA's, those being gennies, and then this RTA thing came along. Rebuildable Tank Atomizer. Okay, my gennies have tanks, they are rebuildables, but somehow I get the impression they are not at all the same thing. Not that I care so much, because gennies are all I care about anyway. I'd just like to know what's being talked about.
Yes, rebuildable tank atomizer. Generally the coil(s) are at the bottom and the juice is on top. Most use cotton or rayon for a wicking material. Silica was once popular, but not so much these days. There is quite a variety ranging from lower power, mouth to lung tanks up to tanks that can run high power and make big clouds. Have a look around
Oh wiser ones:
Is there something out there that I can find a chart that states what ohm/watts/amps a full VG blend should be vaped at??!!
Even as I asked this... I am not familiar with the importance/role each thing plays in getting best flavor... But I have to start somewhere!
Many thanks
[emoji709]
Is there something out there that I can find a chart that states what ohm/watts/amps a full VG blend should be vaped at??!!
Even as I asked this... I am not familiar with the importance/role each thing plays in getting best flavor... But I have to start somewhere!
Many thanks
[emoji709]
Oh wiser ones:
Is there something out there that I can find a chart that states what ohm/watts/amps a full VG blend should be vaped at??!!
Even as I asked this... I am not familiar with the importance/role each thing plays in getting best flavor... But I have to start somewhere!
Many thanks
[emoji709]
This is the only one I know, others may know different:
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png
It is old and was useful to me before TP but once we crossed into TP land it became essentially useless to me. And obviously not VG specific.
What your question comes down to I think is taste and volume. Taste is subjective, some people like it hot some like it cool. Past that it's bakery versus tobacco versus candy etc.
The vape experience is typically split into taste, throat hit, and vapor volume. There are three things we can control to affect all three, the temperature, the power and the ingredients.
But taste is not to be confused with flavor density which some can call "flavor". IE flavor chaser. Flavor density defined as the ratio of volumes of vaporized e-liquid to air. The higher the ratio, the more dense or yummy or packed the flavor. The lower the ratio the less dense and anemic the flavor.
And not to be confused with tightness of draw. Although tighter draw attys typically have superb flavor density. As opposed to a wide open draw but typically lacks in flavor density. Or a middle of the road draw and Flavor. For example. Suppose I have three attys, the Rose, GT2 and Lemo all sustain 24W including successive draws chain vaping at a TP setting of say 410F. The Rose has the most restrictive draw though flavor density is the highest of the three. The Lemo having the most open draw and will have the least flavor density while the GT2 is in the middle. I have the same amount of vaporized e-Liquid but what is changing is the volume of air.
But I cannot tell you the math ie how many milliliters of vaporized e-Liquid per watt to cubic meters of air per air inlet hole size and draw vacuum. I've always wondered though...would be an interesting test setup.
So we talk in generalities like this.
High peak temperatures on any part of the heating device that comes in contact with the juice will burn, cook or otherwise change the chemical composition of the juice. When that happens the "taste" or "Flavor" or whatever is horrible. You immediately grimace and know something ain't right.
We want lots of heated surface area in contact with e-Liquid and a peak temperature well below the danger point of the e-Liquid (all ingredients) and wick material combined with airflow to create the most amount of vapor as efficiently as possible. Note, cloud chasing implies anemic low flavor density huge volumes of vapor but this is not necessarily the case. You can have huge clouds of flavor packed dense vapor with little to no air in the mix at all. And it takes a large amount of power and typically but not always higher temperatures. EG take a 40W sustaining build and close off the airflow control and just let the vaporized e-Liquid fill your mouth then inhale - mouth to Lung. I've done it, nearly puked. Way too much vapor for my lungs to handle.
Also as you create more vaporized e-Liquid IE sustain more power, you will want to back off the nicotine concentration. If you are used to 18mg/ml and 12W, at 40W start at about 5mg/ml. The nicotine hit you would get otherwise ... well did that too it wasn't good. Palpations, clamy skin. Very bad.
A hot versus dry vape. Assuming you like your e-Liquid and you haven’t picked a harsh e-Liquid such as those flavored with Jalapeño which is sometimes done to increase throat hit, a hot or dry vape is also harsh. Harsh defined as it feels like it is burning your tongue throat or lungs either chemically or by temperature. Harsh as in it irritates the back of my throat, tongue or mouth. Throat hit is one thing, irritation is another. ANd you can get that by too much nicotine, flavor ingredients or a dry vape.
A dry vape can be either cool or hot upon inhale but at the coil something else is happening. In other words the juice is chemically altered in a dry vape. In a dry vape you are not tasting your e-Liquid. Rather you are tasting the burnt or cracked version of your e-Liquid as at the coil the temperature exceeded what the build could supply in e-Liquid. Not to be confused with a warm or hot vape. And depending on how bad and the type of wicking, decomposed or burnt wick can occur in a dry vape as well. The taste of any dry vape is unmistakable. With that said, some people like a hot vape and that is their goal. And that is just fine. Just stay away from dry vapes.
The more juice you can flow to the heating device, the more power you can apply to a point, all other things being equal. The amount of vapor volume is determined by the ingredients and amount of power. The temperature of that vapor determines taste (also ingredients) and is subjective. But too much power over a short enough period of time and the temperature can soar not only affecting taste, but to dangerous levels as well.
Any given coil/wick build has an inherent amount of power it can sustain before you start starving the coil for e-Liquid. So lower your voltage/power when this happens if you don't have TP. Yes there will be less vapor produced but it won’t be dry or dangerous. Believe me, the "taste" of a dry vape is absolutely unmistakable. Unless your taste buds are completely gone and your throat and lungs are scarred, I can not conceivably imagine how anyone would not know a dry vape. It's truly horrible.
While not as prevalent, it is possible to have too little power depending on your mod and atty. In this condition the vape is also anemic. Little vapor is produced and what is produced condenses before you can inhale. Your choices are to increase power, buy a more powerful mod, or reduce juice flow by restricting the juice channel(s).
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