Really enjoying this tank, so much nicer than my did clone where I can't see my juice level. Already vaped almost a full tank off of it. Something about air flow coming up through the center of an atty with a cup design just works great for cotton. Having an open space cap for the vapor to flow really makes the vapor smooth.
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I've been wondering why the top cap is so tall. Is it just to create distance between the coil and the vaper, or is there something more to that?
When I bought my did clone, there was an option to purchase a clear replacement tank for $2 so I did. So glad I did! I've never used the metal one, I NEED to be able to see my juice and it's nice to be able to see how far down my wick goes. Surevapes sells them seperately for $3.50 and free shipping.
I still can't believe how well this tank works! And the wicking... at first I was tilting my PV but have found that it does better without tilting. I'm on day 4 with this wick and coil and it keeps getting better (and I didn't think I had the greatest coil to begin with)
Who knows why they designed it like that.. it could have been preplanned and again it could have just been a cool design. I'm wondering why they named it the "Drunker"... was it because it looks like a beer bottle? I personally don't think it's the catchyist name that it could have been named but then again, the "Did" isn't that catchy either (It's name stands for something) And the drunker doesn't appear to be a knockoff of something expensive. It resembles the vivi nova but improves on the design. I don't think the nova was first designed to be a rebuildable but the drunker obviously is.. all I know is that it works! I had a love/hate relationship with my Novas... they were good but not very consistent and never worked near as well as this rba.
I've rebuilt my drunker with 500 mesh wicks. I always seem to burn my cotton. Reading here, it's probably because I don't let them soak long enough.
I hade the vcore mentioned earlier in this thread and it was a vape monster, but it leaked. The first one saw extensive use and ended up cracking at the bottom threads and leaking. The second one leaked from day one. I trashed them both.
Then I saw the drunker, wierd looking,no bottom threads and possibly the cure for my vcore.
And it is a cure...another vaping monster. With mesh wicks, feeding it into the holes is easy.
With silica or cotton, try wrapping the wick tips in saran wrap, make the tip skinny, thread and pull off the wrap on the other side.
I hade the vcore mentioned earlier in this thread and it was a vape monster, but it leaked. The first one saw extensive use and ended up cracking at the bottom threads and leaking. The second one leaked from day one. I trashed them both.
Then I saw the drunker, wierd looking,no bottom threads and possibly the cure for my vcore.
And it is a cure...another vaping monster. With mesh wicks, feeding it into the holes is easy.
With silica or cotton, try wrapping the wick tips in saran wrap, make the tip skinny, thread and pull off the wrap on the other side.
Another cotton option to try is cotton candle wicks. Estara mentioned it on one of his YouTube videos. I haven't tried it on my drinker yet but I will on my next rebuild. I'm using 1.5mm silica currently because I hadn't found the Syrian wrap trick yet for getting the wicks through the 4 holes and was really frustrated trying to get larger wick through the holes. With this thinner silica, I did get slow leaking when placed on it's side. I imagine that with thicker wick wet expanded in the holes it probably won't leak.
Make sure you wash these out when you first get them. Mine had a supper funky taste on it out of the box.
Amazon.com: Cotton Square Braid Candle Wick - #1/0: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Make sure you wash these out when you first get them. Mine had a supper funky taste on it out of the box.
Amazon.com: Cotton Square Braid Candle Wick - #1/0: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
I tried some of the cotton candle wicking mentioned above I found it very dense it didn't seem to wick well. Knowing what I know now though, It probably would have worked if I had given it a soak for several hours. Cotton balls and rounds aren't near as dense and (seems to me) wouldn't need so much time to fully saturate. If not fully saturated it will burn and then it's ruined. Cotton balls, rounds, cheesecloth and peaches and cream yarn are all super cheap and easy to find at Walmart. Not dising the the candle wicking at all! It's just for me, there are better options (for me) that are more readily available.
Your right, the cotton candle wicks take a long time to soak through, in a phoenix rba they will soak up 2 or 3 15-20 drop refills before they are completely saturated. I wonder if thats a good or bad thing, i just have nothing to compare them to.
What are these cotton rounds you guys keep mentioning? love to give them a whirl, if i just knew what they were =).
What are these cotton rounds you guys keep mentioning? love to give them a whirl, if i just knew what they were =).
Just look in your make up kit Amazon.com: Classic Cotton Rounds, 80 Count: Beauty
Cotton rounds are what ladies call make up pads, you can get them anywhere and are 100% compressed pure cotton wool. I buy mine at the dollar tree (dollar store) for you guessed it a buck lol.
The drunker is like a vivi nova Ce2 rebuildable hybrid, and after design they thought how can we make this look cool so beer bottle came to mind lol. I absolutely love this thing, easily my favorite atty.
The drunker is like a vivi nova Ce2 rebuildable hybrid, and after design they thought how can we make this look cool so beer bottle came to mind lol. I absolutely love this thing, easily my favorite atty.
Bet You have some cotton balls in your bathroom right now lol. I think it's not a good thing that the candle wick takes so long to saturate.. too easy to burn the cotton if it's not fully saturated.
The flavor is so intense I just had to dilute my mix 50/50 with unflavored juice.
It's a chop of letters from the creators last name.
At least that's whats stands out to me...
Something I noticed different compared to vivi novas is the legs are longer in the drunker. My medium sized sewing needle 4 wraps 33 awg kanthal in my novas always came out to 1.8ohms every time, and the exact same setup in my drunker came out to 2.6ohms. I just did the math and each leg is .275inches longer than my nova. So I wrote up a measurements and ohms guide for the wires I use to help.
Resistance Wire OHM's By Gauge
30 AWG Kanthal= 8.55 ohm/ft.= .7125 ohm/inch
32 AWG Nichrome= 10.92 ohm/ft.= .91 ohm/inch
33 AWG Kanthal= 17.6 ohm/ft.= 1.46 ohm/inch
30 AWG: 1.8ohm coil= 2.52inches 2.2ohm= 3.08inches 2.8ohm= 3.9inches
32 AWG: 1.8ohm coil= 1.97inches 2.2ohm= 2.4inches 2.8ohm= 3.07inches
33 AWG: 1.8ohm coil= 1.23inches 2.2ohm= 1.5inch 2.8ohm=1.9inches
Resistance Wire OHM's By Gauge
30 AWG Kanthal= 8.55 ohm/ft.= .7125 ohm/inch
32 AWG Nichrome= 10.92 ohm/ft.= .91 ohm/inch
33 AWG Kanthal= 17.6 ohm/ft.= 1.46 ohm/inch
30 AWG: 1.8ohm coil= 2.52inches 2.2ohm= 3.08inches 2.8ohm= 3.9inches
32 AWG: 1.8ohm coil= 1.97inches 2.2ohm= 2.4inches 2.8ohm= 3.07inches
33 AWG: 1.8ohm coil= 1.23inches 2.2ohm= 1.5inch 2.8ohm=1.9inches
The Drunker is just craving for NR legs then it seems.
How is the warmup on the Drunker compared to a Vivi Nova? Depends mostly on the setup ofcourse, but I'm a 3 second sucker and some devices just warm up too slow to give a satisfying vape for me.
I noticed this also. I like the higher resistance because I get better battery life. I won't be using nr wire though.
Try hitting the button on the way to your mouth, and if it's really slow, pause for a half second in addition. When I read your post, I thought of one of my pipe smoking buddies. He took little one second draws that didn't produce much smoke at all lol.
i went to the grocery store and found the cotton rounds. All the ones they had were bleached cotton, i don't feel comfortable vaping on something that's been bleached. I think ill try some unbleached cheese cloth.
I think (but I'm not certain) that a good boil should render them safe to use. I'm not sure how much or what residue is left from bleaching, but I do know some foods are bleached so I figure there can't be too many bad things left after the process. Also, according to Quigs (Quigsworth1 on forum), the bleached loose weave cheese cloth wicks better than the unbleached tight weave.
However, cheese cloth makes great wicks (I'm using the loose weave from wallyworld). In fact I've moved back to it for the primary wick in my reduxes. Here's a couple of tips I've learned from Mack and a few others on the forum here.
1. Cheese cloth expands a lot. If you are prebuilding your coils, make sure your cheese cloth wick slides in smoothly with just very little resistance.
2. Cheese cloth needs a little extra soak time. Mack recommends three hours, but I've taken to just setting them aside overnight. If you're getting any popping, it's probably coming from a cotton fiber burning. A pop here and there is ok, but one or two every vape means you'll need to replace that wick within a few ml. Cause is usually the wick didn't get to soak long enough or it's too big for the coil.
3. in shaping your wick, try just folding instead of rolling. Then roll down one end really tight to get it started. For a small diameter coil, about 1/2 in. of loose weave cheese cloth is plenty (and may be too much for a needle wrapped coil). I recommend trying a small drill, nail, or something that will almost fit into the slots to wrap your coil, then using a needle or something that will fit in the slots to install your coil, as that will mean you can install a wick that won't choke in the slots or the coil.
I hope some of this helps. I think you'll like the cheese cloth.
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After reading thru this thread, I am so wanting to try one of these, but the length of these is putting me off. Is there anyway to use the top piece as a mouth piece? Not having to add the length of a DT would help a little. Other than that, these look good.
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