Low profile Mini (APS/ATT)
There's an even smaller, micro2, but it has long blades.
Micro2 9.1 × 3.8 × 15.3 mm
Low-Profile Mini 10.9 × 3.81 × 8.73 mm
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Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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Low profile Mini (APS/ATT)
There's an even smaller, micro2, but it has long blades.
Micro2 9.1 × 3.8 × 15.3 mm
Low-Profile Mini 10.9 × 3.81 × 8.73 mm
If that is the screw from the FDV 510's, its not copper. It is actually a brass screw that has a gold zinc plating on it...
http://www.modparts.co.uk/924-tm_th...connector-copper-spring-loaded-centre-pin.jpg
Hey Paul, I've been looking around and found this .... Oddly enough I just Googled spring loaded copper screw.. (Maybe brass would be better) .... But a spring loaded 510 came up and I'm wondering if you/we could use the existing open threads on the negative side of battery to get this to work giving the battery resistance to hold the battery in without using a simple copper plated spring?
RUDEDOG'S copper mod made me think of something similar but tensioned to eliminate battery rattle.... The open threads are there right ?
I'm not saying use this as is.... I didn't look at the dimensions just the idea ... Just looks interesting for a negative contact.
Hey Paul, I've been looking around and found this .... Oddly enough I just Googled spring loaded copper screw.. (Maybe brass would be better) .... But a spring loaded 510 came up and I'm wondering if you/we could use the existing open threads on the negative side of battery to get this to work giving the battery resistance to hold the battery in without using a simple copper plated spring?
RUDEDOG'S copper mod made me think of something similar but tensioned to eliminate battery rattle.... The open threads are there right ?
I'm not saying use this as is.... I didn't look at the dimensions just the idea ... Just looks interesting for a negative contact.
Yeah I definitely didn't get one of those in my spare parts bag.It may be be apparent as it's not got a second center pin.
The large silver piece in this photo from element77
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Had a little time to make a couple plates for my Negative contact. First one was to double check my measurements in the delrin recess to make the plate sit flush and to get the battery screw positioned.
The ground screw tang broke during the milling off the back side but this one is still functional. I planned for ground screw tang to go to the end of that little area.
Gonna replace the ground screw with a copper one for the next attempt.
Shot of my next plate, this is the bottom view that goes directly into the delrin insulators recess. Still need to mill the part to the correct thickness but you can get a idea of whats going on underneath.
I want to reiterate that this plate project is only for my personal mod, I do not plan on making these for sale. I accept all the safety risks of not running a fused system on my mod. For me, I prefer a more solid, direct negative connection.
The ground screw tang broke during the milling off the back side but this one is still functional. I planned for ground screw tang to go to the end of that little area.
Gonna replace the ground screw with a copper one for the next attempt.
Shot of my next plate, this is the bottom view that goes directly into the delrin insulators recess. Still need to mill the part to the correct thickness but you can get a idea of whats going on underneath.
I want to reiterate that this plate project is only for my personal mod, I do not plan on making these for sale. I accept all the safety risks of not running a fused system on my mod. For me, I prefer a more solid, direct negative connection.
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Man that's sweet looking. Makes me a little jealous that I'm not as handy lol interested to hear how it works out for you.Had a little time to make a couple plates for my Negative contact. First one was to double check my measurements in the delrin recess to make the plate sit flush and to get the battery screw positioned.
The ground screw tang broke during the milling off the back side but this one is still functional. I planed for ground screw tang to go to the end of that little area.
Gonna replace the ground screw with a copper one for the next attempt.
Shot of my next plate, this is the bottom view that goes directly into the delrin insulators recess. Still need to mill the part to the correct thickness but you can get a idea of whats going on.
I want to reiterate that this plate project is only for my personal mod, I do not plan on making these for sale. I assume all the safety risks of not running a fused system on my mod. For me, I prefer a more solid, direct negative connection.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Just a little update. I broke everything down, and my 510 insulator was broke, I thought it looked fine but didn't realize there was a top piece that snapped off, will replace and report back.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Note, I posted that because it took me far longer than I care to admit to figure out what it was.
At least you KNEW what it was lol I wouldn't of been able to figure that out at all.Note, I posted that because it took me far longer than I care to admit to figure out what it was.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Up and Running!
Put the extra screw in and made my coil
Put the O ring on
Left the original 510 because I don't know how to change it
Held it at arm's length when I pressed the button for the first time. All went well.
Unscrewed the bottle and filled
Screwed the bottle in. Put @HeiSINberg 's favorite RDA on (hehe) because that's what was empty and ready and let it rip. It's vaping just fine.
All's well and cloudily flavorful in south Texas with my American Spirit Blue (of course.)
Thanks Paul! Thanks everyone here for the advice and testing. It's a very nice affordable mod. With whatever little tweaks made down the road it's gonna be better.
Put the extra screw in and made my coil
Put the O ring on
Left the original 510 because I don't know how to change it
Held it at arm's length when I pressed the button for the first time. All went well.
Unscrewed the bottle and filled
Screwed the bottle in. Put @HeiSINberg 's favorite RDA on (hehe) because that's what was empty and ready and let it rip. It's vaping just fine.
All's well and cloudily flavorful in south Texas with my American Spirit Blue (of course.)
Thanks Paul! Thanks everyone here for the advice and testing. It's a very nice affordable mod. With whatever little tweaks made down the road it's gonna be better.
Nope, don't have an extra cylinder like that. I kinda figured that's what it looked like though, since I took the mod apart to get acquainted with it earlier today. Didn't have a center pin OR the 510 in the bag, but I figured it was just the big cylinder. Thanks for posting the fuse size for us!It may be be apparent as it's not got a second center pin.
The large silver piece in this photo from element77
Sent from Doomite Central!
MyMod arrived yesterday, love the raw sandblasted finish Paul, thank you. It looks great and feels nice and silky.
I also was not willing to trim back the battery wrap in order to make contact. My solution is not near as pretty as The.Drifters but it works. I'm running a .35 ohm build and have had no issues at all with blowing the fuse.
If any of you have parts from a PeKo around, the longer brass screw for the firing button is the right size/thread count to screw into the existing spring attachment hole. I left the nut on and once I had the height adjusted for the battery, backed the nut down to lock it in place and provide a larger contact footprint.
I also was not willing to trim back the battery wrap in order to make contact. My solution is not near as pretty as The.Drifters but it works. I'm running a .35 ohm build and have had no issues at all with blowing the fuse.
If any of you have parts from a PeKo around, the longer brass screw for the firing button is the right size/thread count to screw into the existing spring attachment hole. I left the nut on and once I had the height adjusted for the battery, backed the nut down to lock it in place and provide a larger contact footprint.
Sweet Little Sixteen is fitting and working better. .7-ish ohms. Will gently go lower.
As someone that used a paperclip as a fuse on a Dibby, you really didn't expect me to use a fuse did you?
T
T
Ok this is gonna sound stupid but am i the only one who's having trouble with these damn 510 insulators?! I've spent the last 20 mins trying to get one in there with no luck..
10 insulators now ruined so far. Yay.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
10 insulators now ruined so far. Yay.
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
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Had a little time to make a couple plates for my Negative contact. First one was to double check my measurements in the delrin recess to make the plate sit flush and to get the battery screw positioned.
The ground screw tang broke during the milling off the back side but this one is still functional. I planned for ground screw tang to go to the end of that little area.
Gonna replace the ground screw with a copper one for the next attempt.
Shot of my next plate, this is the bottom view that goes directly into the delrin insulators recess. Still need to mill the part to the correct thickness but you can get a idea of whats going on underneath.
I want to reiterate that this plate project is only for my personal mod, I do not plan on making these for sale. I accept all the safety risks of not running a fused system on my mod. For me, I prefer a more solid, direct negative connection.
Since all you are trying to do is make a connection to the body of the mod, why don't you just make a small plate with a screw thread and attach it from the bottom up to the mod, using the hole that was originally meant for the hotspring?
T
To be honest, going for a cleaner look as well as conductivity but was really just expanding on what I did earlier:
I admit my new copper plate is a bit if overkill, But worth the hour I put into it
Paul, do you think you can replace the silicon insulator with Delrin or Peek?
Would fare much better then the silicon, as those are the standards for a 510, specially a squonk 510
Would fare much better then the silicon, as those are the standards for a 510, specially a squonk 510
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