Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

[supertrunker]

Quite, but you could dispense with it totally with one screw.

Story of my life. It's a laziness affliction, but i don't blame you for making it.

T

 

[The.Drifter]

Quite, but you could dispense with it totally with one screw.

Story of my life. It's a laziness affliction, but i don't blame you for making it.

T

Yes your right, tapping straight thru the mod is as simple as it gets to get a centered battery connection. Only one thread set conducting thru to the mod on the negative end But....copper plate is so pretty and shiny, gotta go for the overkill

 

[HeiSINberg]

I figured out why my button was getting stuck, it was scratching the back of the white plastic piece and getting caught up. I had to use the dremel to shave some off, it presses good now. I actually got it up and running but I don't feel like building another appropriate build right now, I replaced the fuse and it fired a decently low build but it's not something I trust as of now. Is there any way to get an rda to screw all the way down or am I always going to have that gap?

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[ST Dog]

it fired a decently low build but it's not something I trust as of now.

What don't you trust?
The problem was a short in the 510 due to over tightening.
The fuse did it's job.

Is there any way to get an rda to screw all the way down or am I always going to have that gap?

The deeper 510 shell should help drop it down.
and you may be able to adjust the post on the Atty some, make it shorter so the atty goes farther down.

All of the atties I've seen have some adjustment on the pin, though some are harder than others to adjust.

You probably adjust some too

 

[ST Dog]

Ok this is gonna sound stupid but am i the only one who's having trouble with these damn 510 insulators?! I've spent the last 20 mins trying to get one in there with no luck..

10 insulators now ruined so far. Yay.

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You're the first to mention trouble. With them.
How are you installing?

I'd seat the insulator in the shell then slide the pin in.
Maybe some lube? Saliva works well, or glycerin.

After all that Paul built maybe he has some tricks to share

 

[ST Dog]

At least you KNEW what it was lol I wouldn't of been able to figure that out at all.

Process of elimination once I figured out what the rest was and then remembered the late change Paul made.

 

[HeiSINberg]

What don't you trust?
The problem was a short in the 510 due to over tightening.
The fuse did it's job.



The deeper 510 shell should help drop it down.
and you may be able to adjust the post on the Atty some, make it shorter so the atty goes farther down.

All of the atties I've seen have some adjustment on the pin, though some are harder than others to adjust.

You probably adjust some too

All of the BF rda's I have are non adjustable, unfortunately. And I just don't trust a thin little piece of silicone to not sheer away and expose the 510 to the mod itself, considering how many I went through to just get it working in the first place, it definitely needs a better material in there. Since so many blew there fuses or just plain weren't working, and that seemed to be the problem. I don't want to have to baby how I screw on my rda just so I don't rip it. Yes I get "that's what the fuse is for" but I didn't get this to keep running through silicone insulators and fuses either. And I didn't over tighten anything, I'd bet it was sent like that cause there not exactly easy to get in.

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[ST Dog]

Left the original 510 because I don't know how to change it

Loosen the 2 plastic screws that hold the contact/spring to the 510 pin.

The back out the set screw between the 510 and the fire button. (Look at the other one to get an idea of how far).

Then the whole thing should push out the top.

Need to push the center pin out to use in the other connector.


Make sure the other connector has an insulator in it.
You can see it, and should feel snug installing the center pin.

 

[ST Dog]

All of the BF rda's I have are non adjustable, unfortunately.

I wonder how they get put together then.

Most I've seen pics of, the pin screws in from the bottom. I've seen hex sockets and slots.

For sure change to the deeper connector, then adjust the pin up to meet the atty.
The end result may be to make the connector even deeper (instead of shallower). Or offer it as an option for those that have longer atties and/or don't want to use the o-ring.


Not that I disagree with using an alternate material.
Maybe Paul broke a few during assembly. Don't know what testing/QC he did either.

 

[HeiSINberg]

I wonder how they get put together then.

Most I've seen pics of, the pin screws in from the bottom. I've seen hex sockets and slots.

For sure change to the deeper connector, then adjust the pin up to meet the atty.
The end result may be to make the connector even deeper (instead of shallower). Or offer it as an option for those that have longer atties and/or don't want to use the o-ring.


Not that I disagree with using an alternate material.
Maybe Paul broke a few during assembly. Don't know what testing/QC he did either.

I have a stumpy, hobo 3.1, tsunami, and a predator. Out of any of them the predator has the most play. The other 3 I wouldn't consider adjustable in my opinion. I wish they were, they sit like that on my mokooo mech too.

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[paulw2014]

Ok this is gonna sound stupid but am i the only one who's having trouble with these damn 510 insulators?! I've spent the last 20 mins trying to get one in there with no luck..

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There are two ways that I know of to install the silicone insulators.

1. Use a tweezer and play around (not recommended)
2. Place the insulator at the center of the 510, and press with the flat end of a pencil or pen. Usually it goes in after a press since the insertion end is tapered.

If you need more I can send you some.

 

[ST Dog]

I have a stumpy, hobo 3.1, tsunami, and a predator.

Humm, I have the sold pin in my stumpy clone . It has a slot and I adjusted it out some. The POS post is very firmly held in the deck. The pin I got from FDV have a hex socket (2mm I think). Not immediately obvious, but it's there.

If I need the pin tighter to hold the post, I can put some washers on it. Metal will probably work if I can't find 3mm fiber washers.

 

[HeiSINberg]

Humm, I have the sold pin in my stumpy clone . It has a slot and I adjusted it out some. The POS post is very firmly held in the deck. The pin I got from FDV have a hex socket (2mm I think). Not immediately obvious, but it's there.

If I need the pin tighter to hold the post, I can put some washers on it. Metal will probably work if I can't find 3mm fiber washers.

Yeah but I squonk with mine, I don't wanna back it out any in case it decides to leak on me ya know. All the 510s move yes but there fully in and secure, backing it out would lengthen it I want the rda closer to the mod itself.

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[ST Dog]

2. Place the insulator at the center of the 510, and press with the flat end of a pencil or pen. Usually it goes in after a press since the insertion end is tapered.

I was thinking of using the center pin since its a nice flat surface and would be available.

 

[HeiSINberg]

There are two ways that I know of to install the silicone insulators.

1. Use a tweezer and play around (not recommended)
2. Place the insulator at the center of the 510, and press with the flat end of a pencil or pen. Usually it goes in after a press since the insertion end is tapered.

If you need more I can send you some.

Actually the tweezer idea is how I got it in and how I ruin so many lol. I tried the pencil thing but I should of wet it some like mentioned cause it kept bunching up on itself, or it would tear if i turned the 510 pin trying to get it in that way.

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[ST Dog]

Yeah but I squonk with mine, I don't wanna back it out any in case it decides to leak on me ya know. All the 510s move yes but there fully in and secure, backing it out would lengthen it I want the rda closer to the mod itself.

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With the deeper connector you might be OK, or even need to lengthen the atty pin or raise the mod pin.

 

[muzichead]

Humm, I have the sold pin in my stumpy clone . It has a slot and I adjusted it out some.

Just because an atty has a slotted or hex in the pin doesn't mean its adjustable. That is there as a means to tighten the center pin down in the atty, not to adjust it... The last thing you want is a center pin that is loose and that can cause a short or put too much strain on your 510. You might want to rethink the whole concept of that!!

 

[paulw2014]

I figured out why my button was getting stuck, it was scratching the back of the white plastic piece and getting caught up. I had to use the dremel to shave some off, it presses good now. I actually got it up and running but I don't feel like building another appropriate build right now, I replaced the fuse and it fired a decently low build but it's not something I trust as of now. Is there any way to get an rda to screw all the way down or am I always going to have that gap?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Or you can loosen the PEEK screw on the right a bit. Tightening the right leaf spring screw will tend to push the leaf spring to contact the delrin piece which will prevent that from bouncing back.

 

[paulw2014]

The 510s are a machined small round piece, easy to make, and not too expensive. If there are demands I can always make some extras. Some mentioned deeper ones. Problem with 510s that's too deep is that some atty won't be able to make contacts at all, which is worse than having to use an O-ring, so I erred on the conservative side.

 

[ST Dog]

Just because an atty has a slotted or hex in the pin doesn't mean its adjustable. That is there as a means to tighten the center pin down in the atty, not to adjust it... The last thing you want is a center pin that is loose and that can cause a short or put too much strain on your 510. You might want to rethink the whole concept of that!!

See my comments on washers. You can adjust the center pin longer and still have it tight if it's also holding something together.

Obviously you don't want it wobbling around. But any pressure on the pun from the connector should straight up the axis.
and it should be very little pressure. There's no reason to torque an atty down, it's just not needed for electrical connection and not a good way to seal leaks.