Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

[67Tele]

Not sure I follow.



Sound like you overtightened and cut the insulator. Best to check it.


Nom nit the one pointed at (arrow labeled for an adapter of some sort). Random photo. Just for the correct nomenclature.

Look at what's in the mod and it's obvious.

I would just loosen the screws a turn or two and slide the fuse out.

Took out the original 510. The insulator looked o.k.? (first pic) Went ahead and put the other 510 in.

Took the fuse out and looks no bueno, no mas.

Thanks for the help ST and HeiSINberg. I'll run up to the store tomorrow and stock up on fuses.

 

[67Tele]

1. Some users attached a spare screw to the extra threaded hole in the negative plate. You don't have to trim any battery if you do that. It's at least a temporary solution. I'm working on a more permanent solution on this right now.

2. Check that white delrin piece in the back of the door. That parts bend (won't be level) if screwed too tight down. I found this out during the assembly process. That delrin piece is supposed to prevent the battery from contacting the door. Do not remove it. The instruction says this.

3. I'm sure after the dust settles, people will decide on what should be done with the 510, be it a more solid insulator or maybe a different 510. I made the mod highly "modular" for a reason.

Paul
Any thought given to another fix/part/adaptation so that the fuse can be eliminated?

 

[ST Dog]

Took out the original 510. The insulator looked o.k.?

Can't tell from that angle. Have to take it out to see.
Go back a few pages see a shot of the lip on top being cut.

Pressure then pushes it out from under the pin and it makes contact with the shell.

It's not got a lot of give before it cuts and shorts.

 

[Yiorgo]

Hey Paul what size are those 510 silicone insulators, And what is the technical name of it.. Is it a
Grommet??

 

[ST Dog]

1. Some users attached a spare screw to the extra threaded hole in the negative plate. You don't have to trim any battery if you do that. It's at least a temporary solution. I'm working on a more permanent solution on this right now.

2. Check that white delrin piece in the back of the door. That parts bend (won't be level) if screwed too tight down. I found this out during the assembly process. That delrin piece is supposed to prevent the battery from contacting the door. Do not remove it. The instruction says this.

3. I'm sure after the dust settles, people will decide on what should be done with the 510, be it a more solid insulator or maybe a different 510. I made the mod highly "modular" for a reason.

Only problem I see with a solid insulator is that would either not stay in or be hard to get out.

I assume the silicone piece is off the shelf. A custom part will be more expensive. I don't know what's available that the shell could be modified for or if the center pin would still fit.

 

[paulw2014]

Only problem I see with a solid insulator is that would either not stay in or be hard to get out.

I assume the silicone piece is off the shelf. A custom part will be more expensive. I don't know what's available that the shell could be modified for or if the center pin would still fit.

A solid insulator would have no elasticity. That means the atty would have to touch it exactly. What would we do with any gap between the mod and the atty?

 

[HeiSINberg]

A solid insulator would have no elasticity. That means the atty would have to touch it exactly. What would we do with any gap between the mod and the atty?

You could technically do it like the mokooo BF mods. They have a drop in 510 pin that looks exactly like a squonk pin for rda's, you put it in and it screws up and down for different length rda pins.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

 

[BobC]

Well, chalk it up to a 1.0 release,

Paul, from experience, your internals need some work, the 510 will never work in a squonk device, way too much motion and pressure squonking puts on the 510, just ain't going to ever work with a silicone insulator

 

[ST Dog]

Well, chalk it up to a 1.0 release,

Paul, from experience, your internals need some work, the 510 will never work in a squonk device, way too much motion and pressure squonking puts on the 510, just ain't going to ever work with a silicone insulator

Given the way the center is held in place with a strap, I'm not sure why the insulator would have any particularly heavy force on it.


Not that it can't be improved. I just don't see the issue you do.

 

[junquedujour]

anyone gonna try a varitube bf 510? i only have the 12mm ones and it falls thru. maybe the larger one would work ??

 

[Train2]

2. Check that white delrin piece in the back of the door. That parts bend (won't be level) if screwed too tight down. I found this out during the assembly process. That delrin piece is supposed to prevent the battery from contacting the door. Do not remove it. The instruction says this.

Well, I didn't tighten it, and it looks properly flat - but I am pretty certain that it's the problem.
With a battery in, there's a gap and the door won't fully close. With or without the rear silicone strip.
I suppose I could pull it out and sand it thinner...?

 

[element77]

I haven't setup my beta mymod yet, not ready to begin working on it, but I've been in examination mode.
The adjustable design of the 510 center pin looks pretty cool.
I'd loosen the screws/strap holding the center pin and install my atty to my desired position, then adjust the pin up to make contact with the atomizer and retighten screws/straps.
In light of other beta testers experience I'll obviously remove the silicon insulator for a visual inspection prior to anything.
The negative not making contact out of the box is the one that has me scratching my head.........well started to begin with it...got distracted... Maybe tomorrow..
Sorry I'm a poor beta tester...thanks to my much more focused counterparts

 

[ST Dog]

anyone gonna try a varitube bf 510? i only have the 12mm ones and it falls thru. maybe the larger one would work ??

All of the BF 510 assemblies I've seen are threaded M10 (1.0 or 0.5). The hole for Paul's shell is bigger than that.

I think the shell could be drilled and tapped. Have to work out electrical connection.

 

[rudedog]

anyone gonna try a varitube bf 510? i only have the 12mm ones and it falls thru. maybe the larger one would work ??

i have a couple of them but ATM i dont know where they are...lol.moved everything out of my living/diningroom and have to look around.other bummer is i havent had any probs with mine,but if i can find the varitube 510's ill see what i can do to make one work.also did you need one of the brass things im using to hold the batt tight and get a clean connection w/o having to cut the batt wraps off.?

 

[BobC]

A solid insulator would have no elasticity. That means the atty would have to touch it exactly. What would we do with any gap between the mod and the atty?

Every other quality squonk mod (Pinch, CC, Vaughn, GDeal et al) uses delrin or peek insulators that screw into the 510 casing, in non auto-adjusting 510s, the pin screws into the insulator

Given the way the center is held in place with a strap, I'm not sure why the insulator would have any particularly heavy force on it.
Not that it can't be improved. I just don't see the issue you do.

See if you can flex the pin within the strap, I'm taking bets you can, due to the shallowness of the 510 casing

 

[artv61]

well, got new fuses and it took till the 3rd insulator to get it working again and a couple fuses. definately insulator. @paulw2014 , can you get a peak insulator that would fit in there if you bore out pin hole in 510 a bit? i dont see that you would need much of a lip ,just enough it wont break through.

 

[ST Dog]

See if you can flex the pin within the strap, I'm taking bets you can, due to the shallowness of the 510 casing

Not sure what flexing you mean.

Pushing off axis? Why would you do that?
Atty comes down on axis and should only push on axis, and not with much force. No reason to torque the atty, just snug against the o-ring. And it was designed to use an o-ring. Any faults from not using as designed is operator error.

But it could be better and more forgiving. I'm sure Paul will improve the next revision. Lessons learned and all.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

This would work...developed by squonkers (Drunk_J & GDeal) for the specific task:

VT 510 - Bottom Feeding 510 - Self-Adjusting or Manual

 

[artv61]

This would work...developed by squonkers (Drunk_J & GDeal) for the specific task:

VT 510 - Bottom Feeding 510 - Self-Adjusting or Manual

I have a couple of them but i am not sure they will work without quite a bit of alteration to the mod, def not the self adjusting as the pin has to be stationary at the current setup.I can see a couple ways to make it work but will let paul know and see what he thinks 1st

 

[ST Dog]

This would work...developed by squonkers (Drunk_J & GDeal) for the specific task:

VT 510 - Bottom Feeding 510 - Self-Adjusting or Manual

The shell part of the 510 would have to be drilled, and preferably tapped. Since it's SS, that's not easy.

The hole for the shell is bigger than the M10 threaded part of the Varitube or FDV assemblies. (Or the other 510 connectors I've seen.