Nope, still need an atty and a battery for mine. But I'm looking forward to trying it out!
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Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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It's the little things Beck! A gift card at Xmas, find out when the birthday is - all stuff that makes you look like you are a caring and nice psychopath individual that they race to deliver to.
Naturally, with drones and battery controlled real size cars at your place, with huge dogs and the firepower of Nicaragua at your disposal, you may come across as a bit intimidating!
18 wheeler parked in the drive.
Present the softer side, or better still, do as i do - leave all that sh to the wife!
T
Naturally, with drones and battery controlled real size cars at your place, with huge dogs and the firepower of Nicaragua at your disposal, you may come across as a bit intimidating!
18 wheeler parked in the drive.
Present the softer side, or better still, do as i do - leave all that sh to the wife!
T
So I assume there's 2 different 510s at this point? One regular and this "deep" 510 everyone's talking about. I only have 1 so I don't have that option to swap it out, so I guess I'm stuck with the gap for now.
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i don't think it's about the gap - i think it's about whether or not you ruin the 510 insulator.
T
T
Paul said he'd send you the missing one.
I'm waiting on magnets. The one on the door arrived broke in half.
If he can, I think cutting an o-ring groove in the shell would be good. The 510 I have from FDV has that, so the o-ring stay and the atty can sit flush but still seal.
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He did? I don't recall. I remember the spring yes but not the 510 unless I overlooked it.
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I did. I just kinda want to wait for the dust to settle so if I have to ship spares/missing items/whatever, I can do it once for everyone.
Oh, well that's my fault then sorry, I don't remember what I read and didn't read. Thank you.
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i'm sure i'm off point here to an extent, but i see no reason to use an o-ring of any kind ever. If the 510 does not leak and withstands the upward squonk pressure, why fart about with o-rings?
They will hide a gap - sure. They will stop you overtightening an atty - maybe, and they might allow the adjustability to point the atty airholes away from your face - BUT - anything that requires their use is a piston!
T
They will hide a gap - sure. They will stop you overtightening an atty - maybe, and they might allow the adjustability to point the atty airholes away from your face - BUT - anything that requires their use is a piston!
T
Mine is back together again after a trip to Auto Zone for fuses but I left my copper strip bridge in place for when I want to "grip it and rip it" the difference is noticeable but not huge. I think my fix for the 510 will be next time it's torn down to bevel the ledge where the insulator sits. That should stop the shearing action.
It's nothing. I also want to try this cheap and easy fix for the negative contact, so if it works I can send it together.
Crap, I did read that lol that's probly why I never followed up on it cause I figured I'd just wait to hear what you say once that happens.
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I was thinking that plated screw and the finish on the mod negates a lot of the copper's advantages. Any you still have a lit of aluminum in the current path, the steel in the 510, etc.
Sure is purdy though
If the two center pins aren't perfectly parallel, that junction will leak.
How much depends on a lit of variables.
I'm sure when I grind this pin down it won't be parallel. Close, but not perfect. So it'll leak some.
The 510 I got from FDV has an o-ring in a grove. So when you tighten the atty it seals but doesn't leave a gap.
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update; 2nd day with mymod and when i switched attys I popped fuse as soon as i hit the button I heard the snap. I then took off atty and tested on another device to see what the resistance was. it turned out to be .33 ohms. hadnt used it in a while and forgot what it was. then i checked all of the points on the device to see if there was a short anywhere,screwed on atty and checked again. no shorts found. so after i go to auto parts today and pick up some fuses i will retest with different atty and then with one that shorted.
edit; the atty i had put on 1st was a derringer built to .45
edit; the atty i had put on 1st was a derringer built to .45
one other thing,with ohms law if your battery is at 3.8-4 v an atty at .33 ohms will draw 12-12.5 amps
an atty with .45 biuld will draw 8-8.5 amps.
this is just my findings so far and in no way makes me think anything is wrong with device.
an atty with .45 biuld will draw 8-8.5 amps.
this is just my findings so far and in no way makes me think anything is wrong with device.
i have a pair of them type 510 and 1 is on a dna200 i built and i like that lil oring on there for sure.even though i havent had any probs as of yet.id probly still like to get whatever "fixes"Pauls ends up sending...just in case i may need them down the road.this is a sharp lil mod and i dont mind messin with it,specially if in the end its a better vape for us all.
0.33 would be a max of 12.7A but with voltage sag and other factors I'd be surprised if it was over 12A.
That's 120% rated current and fuses generally handle that for a few seconds.
FWIW, the 0.45 ohms would be ~8.8-9A.
yes ,exactly my point as there is a 10amp fuse .just wanted to let everyone know that it did its job as far as i was concerned.
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