Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

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ST Dog

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I'm a purist, IMO if it has wires it's not a mech. That doesn't make it bad, it just makes it not a mech AKA an unregulated device.

Any spring loaded 510 I've see will need a flexible connection to the center pin. Most common is going to me a wire.

And any mod in a nonconductive enclosure will require wires.

So you would consider any wooden mod as a mech?
That's pretty extreme.
 

muzichead

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That's why I was thinking thread the shell for the 510 assembly.
I have a drill and tap for the FDV 510s, but no good way to work with stainless.
(no mill, not even a drill press).

If I could find an aluminum rod the right diameter, drilling and threading would be easier and I might could get it done. (I bought it thinking of aluminum boxes, not stainless steel).
So, are you saying the MyMod is a S.S. body then? I thought it was an aluminum body?
 
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ST Dog

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Not intended to come off as any kind of insult here, but since you seem to be the voice in this thread.

Too much free time? Forum access on my phone and tablet?

Really, the engineer in me likes the process.
Actually using it is a secondary concern ;)

All my other vape gears is boring. It just works.
This is interesting.



The vapers I know are using clearos and just started using regulated box mods. One did recently get the Kanger BF kit, but he's never built a coil.

Still, the mod works based in the way it was built to be used. A bunch here assumed the o-ring wasn't needed and did what they wanted instead. They had problems.

The instructions state that a 1mm cross section o-ring is included for securing the atomizer. They state a 0.5mm cross section o-ring can be tried. It does not say the o-ring is optional.
 

element77

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Any spring loaded 510 I've see will need a flexible connection to the center pin. Most common is going to me a wire.

And any mod in a nonconductive enclosure will require wires.

So you would consider any wooden mod as a mech?
That's pretty extreme.
I'm looking at 5 wood body mods on my desk.. No wires..
Not useful info for the topic at hand however absolute statements lead to misinformation... I'm promoting the open discussion here as misinformation will always lead to digressive back and forth.

Mymod examination phase observations, the center pin as it came has no flex however I could push the pin upward past the strap with plenty of pressure and only my hands...no issue just familiarizing myself with the device.
The body halves on mine are not precise...they are fine but if I squeeze back and forth I can get an edge to appear on one side..so a bit rattly overall...stronger magnets and perhaps two more towards the bottom would be a welcome revision.
The shape is fantastic.. Its my favorite as is the case on the VR mods and gdna I'm currently using.
Mine came supplied with 20 silicon insulators and I've removed one and replaced it back... No damage upon removed inspection and went back easy enough using the flanged side of the bf pin.
Just fired up my trusty bone/oak mod and it's relaxing time for me.
 
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ST Dog

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Curious ST Dog, have you had the opportunity to build a mod before?
Opportunity? It been here for years. Just never had occasion to do so.

Almost did, but decided what I could put together was no match for commercially available stuff. Had what I though were interesting ideas,scratching a personal desire, but not cost effective. I don't have access to a machine shop and paying to have stuff made is expensive. If I had a shop I could use I'd have made a dozen by now.

But I'm not spending 100s of dollars to make one off toys. And current prototyping options are too expensive.

I'm an engineer not a businessman. I have zero interest in even hobby level production. I never involve income with my hobbies, that takes the fun out of them and they become work.
 
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ST Dog

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I'm looking at 5 wood body mods on my desk.. No wires..

So the use metal straps instead?
Still sort of a wire, just not multi strand jacketed wire.

For connecting to a moving 510 pin I think I'd prefer wire.
Sure you could connect a flat strip, but I seen no gain from that and harder to work with.

I always understood mechanical to mean no electronics in the main circuit, full current through the switch.

Battery, switch, 510 connection.

Add a parallel voltage meter to monitor the battery, still a mech, as that doesn't affect the current path.

Add a resistance meter in parallel, same thing, still a mech.



The body halves on mine are not precise...they are fine but if I squeeze back and forth I can get an edge to appear on one side..so a bit rattly overall...
Just for a check, remove the battery an check the fit.
Maybe the plastic bit on the door is not sitting right.
Or try moving/removing the silicone strip that snugs the battery. It may be raising an area?


Only place I get that is pressing at the tab the goes under the bottle. Then the door will rock. Tab extended across opening would stop that. Or fill the gap to the door behind the bottle.

stronger magnets and perhaps two more towards the bottom would be a welcome revision.

I was looking for a place for another magnet.
Just not seeing a good spot.

See one spot that would have to use adhesives to hold them in.
Would be better if machined a little different.

The metal behind the bottle, had a flat where a magnet might go, but it's thin and has a notch machined (weight reduction?)

If thicker might work, with the cover milled for the mate.

That gap is unsightly anyway.
 
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muzichead

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For connecting to a moving 510 pin
I'm not really sure at this point if you are new to bottom feeding or not, but I will throw out there that in a bottom fed device you want the 510 pin to be very solid. This is why you don't see any BF devices with a floating pin. They just don't work for the feed system. They are just too unstable and don't seat the wxactly the same each time you remove and replace an atomizer. This leads to shorts and leaking. Very bad for bottom feeding.
 

ST Dog

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This is why you don't see any BF devices with a floating pin.

Tell FDV and Varitube that since they make 510 assemblies with spring loaded pins for bottom feeding.

Oh, tell Cowderhead72 that too as he is putting the Varitube connectors in his next batch of mods.
 
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muzichead

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Tell FDV and Varitube that since they mack 510 assemblies with sprung loaded pins for bottom feeding.

Oh, tell Cowderhead72 that too as he is putting the Varitube connectors in his next batch of mods.
The only FDV 510 that works and was any good was the standard 510 and it was ridgid... Every other version leaked and was a failure and that has led to the V5 they are on now...
 

ST Dog

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By that logic a metal mod body is also a wire.

Thought I had a smiley with that ...

But no, the body is a structural component too, not just a conductor.

To me, anything whose purpose is to carry a signal (current or voltage) between two points is a wire. It's drawn as a wire in a schematic (wiring diagram). The physical implementation can be multi stranded wire, braided wire, solid wire, metal strips, or even PCB traces (Printed Circuit Boards are also called Printed Wiring Boards)

It's semantics sure.

But when does a single strand of wire become a rod? 10AWG? 2AWG? 000AWG?
 

ST Dog

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Again, not intended to come off as any kind of insult, but this sometimes gets in the way of how something working properly most times...
Whatever. The point was I'm not interested in making mods for money, and any ideas I have are too expensive to have made for just me.

I'm thankful for the engineers that designed the 100s of products I use on a regular basis. And glad some had the business acumen to bring them to market.
 

beckdg

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Thought I had a smiley with that ...

But no, the body is a structural component too, not just a conductor.

To me, anything whose purpose is to carry a signal (current or voltage) between two points is a wire. It's drawn as a wire in a schematic (wiring diagram). The physical implementation can be multi stranded wire, braided wire, solid wire, metal strips, or even PCB traces (Printed Circuit Boards are also called Printed Wiring Boards)

It's semantics sure.

But when does a single strand of wire become a rod? 10AWG? 2AWG? 000AWG?

When described using the prefix lightning or sold as such.

Example; Renee wire or divining rod?

Chosen by application marketing in this case.

Mod body could also be drawn as a wire in a schematic. Electrically, it's only purpose would be to carry current. It doesn't change, store or supply anything.

And since you omitted your smiley, we can nitpick this to death then ad nauseum again. :D

Tapatyped
 

B2L

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Any spring loaded 510 I've see will need a flexible connection to the center pin. Most common is going to me a wire.

And any mod in a nonconductive enclosure will require wires.

So you would consider any wooden mod as a mech?
That's pretty extreme.

REO Woodvilles I do not consider mechs as they are wired, Pdibs Pinch I definately consider a mech as there are no wires. Extreme? Probably, that kinda comes along with being a purist ;) Soldered connections are failure points and not easily fixed in the field, mechanical connections however are easily maintained on the fly.

No wires on a quality wood mod ST buddy, see PDib's Pinch or Vaughn's VR Mods

and I've been using about seven VT spring loaded adjustable 510 prototypes for over six months

Both good examples :thumb: The PeKo, although not wood, was also a non conductive body and, in its original form, definately a mech.

Thought I had a smiley with that ...

But no, the body is a structural component too, not just a conductor.

To me, anything whose purpose is to carry a signal (current or voltage) between two points is a wire. It's drawn as a wire in a schematic (wiring diagram). The physical implementation can be multi stranded wire, braided wire, solid wire, metal strips, or even PCB traces (Printed Circuit Boards are also called Printed Wiring Boards)

It's semantics sure.

But when does a single strand of wire become a rod? 10AWG? 2AWG? 000AWG?

It's definately semantics. As far as when does a wire become a rod, I'd say when it no longer needs to be soldered to a connection point and is able to maintain contact on its own.
 

ST Dog

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So, are you saying the MyMod is a S.S. body then? I thought it was an aluminum body?
No, the outer shell of the 510 connector is stainless.
So hard to drill and tap that insert with the equipment I have available.


The main body could drilled differently in a future revision, but I was looking at way to improve what we have in our hands now.
 

ST Dog

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It's definately semantics. As far as when does a wire become a rod, I'd say when it no longer needs to be soldered to a connection point and is able to maintain contact on its own.

Ah, so screw connections, like the wires to outlets and switches in a house are OK? No solder, simple screwdriver to tighten.

Or the mechanical connection of the coil wire ends in an atty?

Did you know the Army mainly uses crimp on contacts on aircraft?
 
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