Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

[element77]

Lots of great thoughts flowing this morning.... Still haven't began, but looking at miscellaneous items I have that could work based on all the exchanges shared here....all the fdv bf pins slid in the insulator and strap perfectly..i have a few of the V5 to try as this mod uses a set screw to hold the 510 that would negate worrying about tapping anything...I'm going for a surf...clear my mind and may begin setup this afternoon

 

[rudedog]

Lots of great thoughts flowing this morning.... Still haven't began, but looking at miscellaneous items I have that could work based on all the exchanges shared here....all the fdv bf pins slid in the insulator and strap perfectly..i have a few of the V5 to try as this mod uses a set screw to hold the 510 that would negate worrying about tapping anything...I'm going for a surf...clear my mind and may begin setup this afternoon

i didnt try any of the FDV pins,have to check that out,but for now im off on the bike to kill some bugs!

 

[ST Dog]

Lots of great thoughts flowing this morning.... Still haven't began, but looking at miscellaneous items I have that could work based on all the exchanges shared here....all the fdv bf pins slid in the insulator and strap perfectly..i have a few of the V5 to try as this mod uses a set screw to hold the 510 that would negate worrying about tapping anything...I'm going for a surf...clear my mind and may begin setup this afternoon

The V5 I have has a M10x1.0 thread. It's too small to put in the hole that the shell goes in. If you drop the V5 in there w/o the shell it'll be too loose and off center.
I guess you could open up the Paul's shell and use the V5 with the panel nut. Not sure that nut would fit through the hole. If not assembly would suck. Even then, the nut would probably interfere with the delrin insulator.

That's why I was thinking thread the shell for the 510 assembly.
I have a drill and tap for the FDV 510s, but no good way to work with stainless.
(no mill, not even a drill press).

If I could find an aluminum rod the right diameter, drilling and threading would be easier and I might could get it done. (I bought it thinking of aluminum boxes, not stainless steel).

 

[HeiSINberg]

Is there a reason why I should be seeing a spark of sorts every time I watch the positive pin make contact with the battery it's fine, when I go to let go that's when it happens. You can practically hear it. Is this arcing?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

 

[paulw2014]

Well, chalk it up to a 1.0 release,

Paul, from experience, your internals need some work, the 510 will never work in a squonk device, way too much motion and pressure squonking puts on the 510, just ain't going to ever work with a silicone insulator

Didn't the REO grand use a silicone insulator?

 

[67Tele]

O.k., back up and running. Got the fuses 10A and 15A. Put the 10A in with the new 510 and the NarDA with .7 ohms. Tried the Oring but didn't want to squish the atty tighter so I left it off. Tiny bit of a gap.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

The shell part of the 510 would have to be drilled, and preferably tapped. Since it's SS, that's not easy.

The hole for the shell is bigger than the M10 threaded part of the Varitube or FDV assemblies. (Or the other 510 connectors I've seen.

I was thinking for for the V2 than a retrofit.

 

[ST Dog]

Is there a reason why I should be seeing a spark of sorts every time I watch the positive pin make contact with the battery it's fine, when I go to let go that's when it happens. You can practically hear it. Is this arcing?

Yes, it's arcing. Going to happen anytime you make or break a mechanical connection. The higher the current, the more apparent it is.

 

[HeiSINberg]

Yes, it's arcing. Going to happen anytime you make or break a mechanical connection. The higher the current, the more apparent it is.

Disregard this comment I can't delete it.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

 

[ST Dog]

I was thinking for for the V2 than a retrofit.

OK. Yea, lots of options for next iteration.

I guess you could open up the Paul's shell and use the V5 with the panel nut. Not sure that nut would fit through the hole.

Nope, the V5 threaded section isn't long enough.


So the shell needs threaded or a set screw. Maybe the current one could be extend through the shell? Would be a pain to line up though.

I think a hard insulator (Derlin or PEEK) is the easiest fix. Switching to a pre-made 510 looks more involved, especially for a spring loaded center pin.

But, with no easy way for Paul to make and test one, it won't be super quick.
May well require changes to the current 510 shell (open the center hole some).


Still, I think the current setup will be fine for most. As long as it's used AS INTENDED (ie with an o-ring under the atty to limit the pressure on the center pin). I get that some don't like the gap but it's not a functional issue.
If the gap really bothers someone, put a fender washer under the atty to extend to the same diameter as the atty. Like a trim ring when using a 510 tank on an Ego battery.Poof, no gap.

 

[ST Dog]

If the gap really bothers someone, put a fender washer under the atty to extend to the same diameter as the atty. Like a trim ring when using a 510 tank on an Ego battery.Poof, no gap.

This is 24mm with an 8mm hole. Could grind/sand down to 22 pretty easy,
Shop The Hillman Group 12-Count 8mm x 24mm Stainless Steel Metric Fender Washers at Lowes.com

The Zinc plated version would be even easier
Shop The Hillman Group 4-Count 8mm x 24mm Zinc Plated Metric Fender Washer at Lowes.com

Then push the center pin up to make contact.
I'd open them up a bit for an o-ring though.

This SAE sized one would need a larger hole and would start at 25mm.
Shop The Hillman Group 6-Count 1/4-in x 1-in Stainless Steel Standard (SAE) Fender Washers at Lowes.com

 

[rudedog]

OK. Yea, lots of options for next iteration.




Nope, the V5 threaded section isn't long enough.
View attachment 570981

So the shell needs threaded or a set screw. Maybe the current one could be extend through the shell? Would be a pain to line up though.

I think a hard insulator (Derlin or PEEK) is the easiest fix. Switching to a pre-made 510 looks more involved, especially for a spring loaded center pin.

But, with no easy way for Paul to make and test one, it won't be super quick.
May well require changes to the current 510 shell (open the center hole some).


Still, I think the current setup will be fine for most. As long as it's used AS INTENDED (ie with an o-ring under the atty to limit the pressure on the center pin). I get that some don't like the gap but it's not a functional issue.
If the gap really bothers someone, put a fender washer under the atty to extend to the same diameter as the atty. Like a trim ring when using a 510 tank on an Ego battery.Poof, no gap.

im gonna say it...get over the gap or dont use the effin my mod...easy enuff..lol.for a 100$ this mod is kick .....even with havin to mod it a lil bit.im a tinker..er,doesnt bother me to mess with the stuff,now a 400+ $ mod thats another story.if i hurt anyones feelings...tuff get over it and grow a layer of skin.ive had my feelings hurt a LOT and it hasnt killed me yet...lol.

 

[element77]

Back from a great surf soul session.... Nap time... Maybe beta testing later...you can't hurt my feelings rudedog..I won't allow it

 

[paulw2014]

An unrelated question...what do people think of wires in mech mods?

 

[Houndb]

They don't bother me. As long as it works and looks good I'm happy

 

[B2L]

An unrelated question...what do people think of wires in mech mods?

I'm a purist, IMO if it has wires it's not a mech. That doesn't make it bad, it just makes it not a mech AKA an unregulated device.

I believe I'm in the minority here, to most folks if it is not regulated it's a mech.

 

[muzichead]

Didn't the REO grand use a silicone insulator?

The Reo's had silicone gel in between the device itself and the 510 connector and was sealed. Only way you could get to it was to tke the 510 connector out of the device. There was a silicone gasket that was used in between the +pin and the -housing of the 510 that kept the +/- from shorting, but would warp or break if you torqued the atty down too tight... This all led to the adjustable 510 that is now used by Rob...

 

[rudedog]

Back from a great surf soul session.... Nap time... Maybe beta testing later...you can't hurt my feelings rudedog..I won't allow it

great,im glad.some folks are just to thinskinned anymore.you got your surf on and i got to kill some bugs we are all good with the world now!

 

[ST Dog]

There was a silicone gasket that was used in between the +pin and the -housing of the 510 that kept the +/- from shorting, but would warp or break if you torqued the atty down too tight...

Sounds familiar...

Guess Paul missed that case.

 

[muzichead]

Still, I think the current setup will be fine for most. As long as it's used AS INTENDED (ie with an o-ring under the atty to limit the pressure on the center pin).

Not intended to come off as any kind of insult here, but since you seem to be the voice in this thread.......how many vapers do you know that vape exactly the same?

I had already said this earlier on and would doubt there would be any, (or as many), problems here if this device had been beta tested by a few individuals instead of being beta tested by the amount that purchased it so far... Its not like there weren't several "very" qualified people from the inception of this thread that offered to do such and don't think there was anyone that was even considered.

I will ask again, how many vapers do you know that use the exact same atty, device, with the exact same set up, battery, drip tip, vaping the same juice, exactly the same across the board... I've been vaping for the last 5 yrs and I don't know anyone!!!

This is usually why I have never bought a V1 of any device since I started vaping, because I shouldn't have to pay to be someones beta tester....