Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)

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beckdg

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Ah, so screw connections, like the wires to outlets and switches in a house are OK? No solder, simple screwdriver to tighten.

Or the mechanical connection of the coil wire ends in an atty?

Did you know the Army mainly uses crimp on contacts on aircraft?
:blink:

Now we're getting... out there.

Tapatyped
 

ST Dog

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Now we're getting... out there.

Just goofing off. :)

But if the complaint is solder and field repairs, then screws alleviate that.

I'm no fan of crimp on contacts, but that's what the Army uses. All the contact pins in multi-pin circular connectors, ring terminals, splices, etc.
 
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beckdg

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Just goofing off. :)

But if the complaint is solder and field repairs, then screws alleviate that.

I'm no fan of crimp on contacts, but that's what the Army uses. All the contact pins in multi-pin circular connectors, ring terminals, splices, etc.
Meh

Its not a work Van. It's a mod.

Having to carry any tools for "field repairs" is a major negative.

Magnets and thumb screws for the win.

At the beach, I'm not interested in the question "is that a bluedriver in your pocket or are you just entirely too happy to be here?".

Tapatyped
 

paulw2014

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. There was a silicone gasket that was used in between the +pin and the -housing of the 510 that kept the +/- from shorting, but would warp or break if you torqued the atty down too tight... This all led to the adjustable 510 that is now used by Rob...

I'm not really sure at this point if you are new to bottom feeding or not, but I will throw out there that in a bottom fed device you want the 510 pin to be very solid. This is why you don't see any BF devices with a floating pin. They just don't work for the feed system.

This mod was designed in 2014. Along the way, some asked me if it had an adjustable 510. I said no. It would add complexity and cost. The Mymod is designed to be as simple as possible, and the price reflects that. The current design works fine if one uses an O-ring. If one does not want an O-ring, the other deeper 510 can be tried. And if necessary, I can always design an new/adjustable 510 and the user can swap it themselves. Or even add a solid insulator. There are many ways to "resolve" this.

According to your description of the old REO, it was similar in that it used a silicone gasket that can "warp or break if you torqued the atty down too tight." Very few people trashed the REO back in 2014.

People wanted stainless steel everything (510, center pin), no brass, etc, That was the priority back then. They didn't make a huge deal on having adjustable 510s. I didn't know any adjustable 510s on the market that was pure s.s with no brass.

So I guess you can argue the Mymod is a bit outdated in design, and I do have another design in the works that will be very current. I will sell a few to friends nearby in the end of July (before the FDA deadline), and then give some to ECF members to try before I make a thread on it. Since I wouldn't be able to make much changes after 8/9, their trial would be purely for feedback. It's okay. All the lessons learned so far will be applied so the design will be solid before I send it to anyone. Those who bought the Mymod can get a credit toward the new design.

There would be no 510 problems or atty fit/o-ring issues with the new design. It can also be run in either mech or regulated mode, just like my original intent in 2014.
 
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rudedog

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This mod was designed in 2014. Along the way, some asked me if it had an adjustable 510. I said no. It would add complexity and cost. The Mymod is designed to be as simple as possible, and the price reflects that. The current design works fine if one uses an O-ring. If one does not want an O-ring, the other deeper 510 can be tried. And if necessary, I can always design an new/adjustable 510 and the user can swap it themselves. Or even add a solid insulator. There are many ways to "resolve" this.

According to your description of the old REO, it was similar in that it used a silicone gasket that can "warp or break if you torqued the atty down too tight." Very few people trashed the REO back in 2014.

People wanted stainless steel everything (510, center pin), no brass, etc, That was the priority back then. They didn't make a huge deal on having adjustable 510s. I didn't know any adjustable 510s on the market that was pure s.s with no brass.

So I guess you can argue the Mymod is a bit outdated in design, and I do have another design in the works that will be very current. I will sell a few to friends nearby in the end of July (before the FDA deadline), and then give some to ECF members to try before I make a thread on it. Since I wouldn't be able to make much changes after 8/9, their trial would be purely for feedback. It's okay. All the lessons learned so far will be applied so the design will be solid before I send it to anyone. Those who bought the Mymod will be able to get a $100 credit toward the new design, which makes the Mymod essentially free. How's that for "beta testing."


im not gonna sweat the lil adjustments ive had to make on mymod,i appreciate what ya did with the lil mod Paul.cant imagine what kinda coin all this has cost you in the end.but hey ill test one of the new ones.ive thrown money away for years and had a pile of nothing to show for it.so if i get a mod that will work in the end its a win,especially for c-note.ive got tube mechs i havent touched in 2 yrs,ive been using the mymod everyday and havent had any probs at all and the lil brass thing im using to make contact with the battery is working fine.v1 in anything always has its issue,s,i knew that some nothing to complain about from me man.L8TR
 

muzichead

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According to your description of the old REO, it was similar in that it used a silicone gasket that can "warp or break if you torqued the atty down too tight." Very few people trashed the REO back in 2014.
The silicone gasket was nothing more than a washer that kept the +/- connection separated. In order to replace this you had to disassemble the 510. Rob used that design since the first metal Reo was designed. He had no problems with the design until rebuildable atty's came about and people started cranking down their atty's so they could get the air hole lined up away from their face. Then Rob started suggesting the o-ring to take some of the stress off the silicone washer. People were still cranking them down the gaskets were tearing or warping and would cause a short in the connection because the +pin would contact the negative of the 510 then. This was how the adjustable 510 came about to keep the 510 from shorting.

I will sell a few to friends nearby in the end of July (before the FDA deadline), and then give some to ECF members to try before I make a thread on it. Since I wouldn't be able to make much changes after 8/9, their trial would be purely for feedback.
This is a very wise decision as a few of us mentioned very early in this thread... Not sure you really took any of us serious though? This will eliminate many headaches for you as then you would have multiple vape styles being used and to gather input from. I think asking someone to pay $100 to beta test a product is the wrong way to go about it, but that is my opinion only. The "beta" should have been mentioned prior to going on sale so that some of the people that have shared concerns could have made the choice not to do so... Again, my opinion, although it also has been voiced to me via pm from a few.

I do applaud you on your first device and am sorry at the same time for the problems you are facing. I would hope the next one be more to "everyones" liking and usability...
 

paulw2014

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This is a very wise decision as a few of us mentioned very early in this thread... Not sure you really took any of us serious though? This will eliminate many headaches for you as then you would have multiple vape styles being used and to gather input from. I think asking someone to pay $100 to beta test a product is the wrong way to go about it, but that is my opinion only. The "beta" should have been mentioned prior to going on sale so that some of the people that have shared concerns could have made the choice not to do so... Again, my opinion, although it also has been voiced to me via pm from a few.

I do applaud you on your first device and am sorry at the same time for the problems you are facing. I would hope the next one be more to "everyones" liking and usability...

Thanks, but in all fairness, it was not my intention to have anyone "beta test" anything. The mod was intended to be a finished mod. I did mention in the Paypal invoice that this is a "beta version" because like anything, there is always room for improvement. The value of the Mymod is its user-serviceable nature. Plenty of off the shelf components are used, with the specs given in the instructions. Plenty of insulators are included, and users can get more for pennies. Fuses can be replaced in seconds. The 510, being the weakest component of any mod, come with an user replaceable spare. It's designed to give users no down-time, and is designed to last a long time - which is one reason for the appeal of mech mods. The O-ring is used because I want the mod to be absolutely leak proof.

The next mod is a clean slate design and while it takes some inspiration from the Mymod, it's by no means a related mod or a "V2" of this. I've always hinted at a 2nd mod from very early on (which you are aware).

Only a select few PMed me with concerns and I've agreed to all their requests.

Having said that, I will take the lesson learned and apply it to the other mod.
 
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MsLoud

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I will admit, after knowing what the end product would be, I backed out. When I saw - fuse - I knew I was not interested in the least. I also saw/knew other concerns and this made my mind up. I don't buy mods to tinker. I wish you luck on future endeavors and that this version gets sorted for the ones that bought them and waited - very patiently I might add.
 

BlueridgeDog

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I have been following this from the start...I pm'ed trying to get in, but was lost in the initial confusion. It appears the mod delivered excels in most areas and has some areas where, given a larger budget, things could be different. It looks like a great design and a very user friendly mod.
 

Yiorgo

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inswva

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That's not how he looks at it. Attack.... is what he does. I'm simply pointing out facts! That's all.


Which post have you seen his POSTS on here lately..... That's acting like a bully.... And no one calls him out for it.

You could always address Mike via PM and state your concerns. No need to put him on blast in this thread. If memory serves me correctly, there are several of us who have been perceived the wrong way due to our postings. As a matter of fact, Mike and I had some differences some time ago which were easily resolved with civil discourse.

With all of that said, he is kind of a grump. ;) :)
 

Yiorgo

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rudedog

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Sorry brother but with all due respect, That would be like asking for some more of his non sense.....I'll be honest.. He made a remark to me a few days ago (about me never knowing patience or something) and I asked him if he was talking to me.... he didn't qoute me but it seemed obvious.. He didn't respond....... BUT Paul pm'ed me and said HE WAS SORRY if he made me feel uncomfortable! .... THAT tells me a lot about someones character and for someone like him to continue to assassinate it by making these RIDICULOUS IMPLICATIONS.... Uhhh No! that's just not ok with me nor should it be with anyone here who know the story behind this mod!

Bottom line Paul is a great guy and put out a great little serviceable mod!

ive learned to ignore whoever happens to rub me the wrong way.especially when arguing just isnt worth it anymore.ive got better stuff to do and bantering back and forth does eff all to help the mod or any of us out.so if i am a dcik on here by all means tell me to shut up...lol.still hammerin on this mod and its still chuckin so im good with it.some dont like to fiddle with stuff and some do....i do.i get the folks that dont and thats cool too.hell i ran one of my batts down to 2.7 on mymod and was like OH CRAP when i checked it.batts recharged and good to go again.
 

MsLoud

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What's wrong with a fuse?
All of my bottom feeders are mechs - no wires or fuse required. I don't have the inclination, tools nor time to fiddle. This is why I will never own a wood mod of any sort. I love them. They are beautiful...but I don't want that upkeep. I'm quite content to take out my battery and wash the whole mod off in the sink - atty included cause I use ReadyxWick - wipe it off and dry burn. I'm all set to go. It's a personal preference. Nothing against your mod - it just wasn't for me - which is why I decided to decline and let someone else - who would maybe be better at troubleshooting - have the spot.
 

paulw2014

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All of my bottom feeders are mechs - no wires or fuse required. I don't have the inclination, tools nor time to fiddle. This is why I will never own a wood mod of any sort. I love them. They are beautiful...but I don't want that upkeep. I'm quite content to take out my battery and wash the whole mod off in the sink - atty included cause I use ReadyxWick - wipe it off and dry burn. I'm all set to go. It's a personal preference. Nothing against your mod - it just wasn't for me - which is why I decided to decline and let someone else - who would maybe be better at troubleshooting - have the spot.

That's fine. Some people don't like fuses and some demands them. Everyone see things differently and have different preferences and tastes. It's impossible to design anything that makes everyone happy.

That's why no one should take it personally when discussing the pros/cons of mods.
 
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element77

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So the use metal straps instead?
Still sort of a wire, just not multi strand jacketed wire.

For connecting to a moving 510 pin I think I'd prefer wire.
Sure you could connect a flat strip, but I seen no gain from that and harder to work with.

I always understood mechanical to mean no electronics in the main circuit, full current through the switch.

Battery, switch, 510 connection.

Add a parallel voltage meter to monitor the battery, still a mech, as that doesn't affect the current path.

Add a resistance meter in parallel, same thing, still a mech.




Just for a check, remove the battery an check the fit.
Maybe the plastic bit on the door is not sitting right.
Or try moving/removing the silicone strip that snugs the battery. It may be raising an area?


Only place I get that is pressing at the tab the goes under the bottle. Then the door will rock. Tab extended across opening would stop that. Or fill the gap to the door behind the bottle.



I was looking for a place for another magnet.
Just not seeing a good spot.

See one spot that would have to use adhesives to hold them in.
Would be better if machined a little different.

The metal behind the bottle, had a flat where a magnet might go, but it's thin and has a notch machined (weight reduction?)

If thicker might work, with the cover milled for the mate.

That gap is unsightly anyway.
This is pre-setup no battery slight movement, with battery same, its all good just observations to share... Thanks for the trouble shooting though... Still no time devoted...but like I said I'm not the ideal beta candidate on account of my being easily distracted...:rolleyes:
 

Doffy

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Don't know why you guys struggle with that guy, put him on ignore, this way you don't even see his nonsense, that's what I did
Xenforo ignore is better than the old vbulletin too. Even if someone quotes someone on your ignore list you won't see it. Threads started by someone on ignore don't even show up.

... Except on tapatalk, where it doesn't work at all.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
 
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