Introduction/Discussion about my first RDA build

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Hello, ECF!

I'm completely new to ECF and actually forums in general. I'm quite familiar with them however, as I usually browse them. I started vaping around the beginning of December, 2013. It was an instant hobby. I started out with an Ego-T Upgrade and a CE4 Clearo but I knew right off the bat that I could achieve much more from personal vaporizers. I quickly got familiar with mods and different types of tanks, clearos, attys, etc. By February I was the proud owner of a Mini Lavatube v2, topped with an iClear 30. Still my current setup, but, yet again, I knew what I had couldn't possibly be the "height" of basic vaping. I scoured the internet on how to achieve more vapor production and flavor. What I first came across was sub-ohm vaping. Luckily I do a lot of research about things I take a liking to, as I soon after discovered sub-ohm is NOT the answer, as some seem to think. It all depends on the grade of kanthal you use, how many wraps you do on a coil, (not as much) the RDA itself in minor cases (airflow for example), the quality of battery you use in a mech, regulators in vv/vw mods, most of us know these things. As I currently stand, I'm well educated on all things mods and toppers, including RDAs, coils, Ohm's Law and how it applies to everything, batteries, and such, and how it all ties together. I would consider myself to be able to make the best vapor shop employee in my area, as there aren't any actual "gurus" here, save one employee at my favorite local vape shop.
:2c:


That does it for my intro, now on to my questions.
I ordered an igo-w, 100' of 28 ga kanthal, organic cotton, and a blunt syringe needle that I'll be using for my selected first build, known as the Nano Dragon Coil. It's a dual coil setup, the video I watched on YouTube on how to make the build, said that the final product comes out with an ohm reading of about .8-.9. I'd prefer not to take the ohm reading into the sub-ohm category, as sub-ohm vaping could potentially be dangerous. However, I'm not too concerned considering I know what I'm doing (theoretically, I suppose, as I haven't actually made a single build yet :p), I know limits and use the ohm's law calculator to make sure I know what battery to use, what voltage to set my mod at, etc. Various common sense and info pertaining to various aspects and such. Anyway...
As the final ohm reading for that particular build comes to .8-.9, what I'm most concerned about is if that build will work on my Lavatube. I've seen in some places, people talking about how they use RDAs with various builds on them, various ohm readings down to .5 and such, on their Lavatube, but then again I saw others say my Tube model wouldn't even fire on a coil with an ohm reading below 1.2. I tried to look into the specs of my model myself, but alas all they say about it is "Short Circuit/Atomizer protection".

I know of mods that will read a "short circuit" from a low-ohm coil, so I'd just like to make sure. If my mod won't take my build, I'll either just get some higher ga kanthal or make a couple more wraps on the coils.

I'd like to be able to use this build on my LavaTube to be able to change my voltage, therefore wattage based on the known coil resistance and max amperage output of my battery, knowing my safe ranges. But at any rate, if it won't work, I'm not too worried about it. I'll just wait a little longer for my Sentinel M16 clones to arrive. :)

Thanks in advance for the replies and help/inputs!

Vape on.:vapor:

 

CNCguy11

Full Member
Feb 21, 2014
58
17
Indiana
Sounds like you may have answered your own question there fellow vaper. Not sure about your lava tube, but I know my itaste vv v3.0 has an amp limit of 3.5 (maybe 3) amps. So in my case I could barely get a .9 ohm to fire (if it did at all) at 10W. Just something you might look into. Also, with my experience with 28g, it takes a LONG time for it to heat up, and by the time it did, I had hit my 10 second cut off. So I purchased 100' of 30g kanthal and I am much happier with it. Even if you don't do sub ohm coils, you can always do some micro coils that are 1+ohms and come close to the same results as a sub ohm coil. Right now my set up is an IGO-L with a micro coil cotton build coming in at 1.8 ohms and it is just right for me. Keep in mind, the lower ohms you go, the shorter your battery life will be on your lava tube. That is why so many people are use mechs for low/sub ohm coils. Just my two cents!

Jeremy
 
Thanks, Jeremy! I guess I did answer my own question. I didn't catch it. :D I suppose for the coil build I want to use I will just use 30 gauge. That'll get the ohms high enough to be safe with the Tube, no questions asked anyway. I appreciate the input! The big reason I decided to join ECF was for the ability to have nice, constructive, knowledgeable conversations with chill fellow vapers!

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CNCguy11

Full Member
Feb 21, 2014
58
17
Indiana
Right on! No problem buddy! I am a new member myself but have been vaping 3 almost 4 years and I am still learning new things every day it seems like. I always like sharing info when I can! And that 30 gauge will treat you well. I have set my 28g to the side until I pick up a new 30 amp battery to throw in my mech for the few occasions I like to "chase clouds" haha. Glad I could help, vape on buddy!
 

MotoMudder

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Nov 22, 2013
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217
Sumner, WA
Also, Just an FYI post. With regulated mods, the only thing to worry about is if the coil is below 1.2ohms(most mods at least), it wont fire. Watts are about your preferred flavor/vapor production. Amperage, the device will handle that, theres no need to do all the math, thats why the regulated mods exist, to take the guess work outta it.
 
Also, Just an FYI post. With regulated mods, the only thing to worry about is if the coil is below 1.2ohms(most mods at least), it wont fire. Watts are about your preferred flavor/vapor production. Amperage, the device will handle that, theres no need to do all the math, thats why the regulated mods exist, to take the guess work outta it.

I didn't know regulated mods handled voltage. Does this mean if I have a, say, 4 amp limit battery in a regulated mod, it'll push more amperage? Doesn't seem to make too much sense to me, as I would think amp limits on batteries are just that, limits. Even with regulated devices.

Thanks, man!

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MotoMudder

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Nov 22, 2013
345
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Sumner, WA
I didn't know regulated mods handled voltage. Does this mean if I have a, say, 4 amp limit battery in a regulated mod, it'll push more amperage? Doesn't seem to make too much sense to me, as I would think amp limits on batteries are just that, limits. Even with regulated devices.

Thanks, man!

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No, it can only push what its built to. If you got a battery.......Ya know what, I think i might have confused us both. Im not sure if the mods have a max amperage along with the battery itself. I'll try and come back to this, or maybe a veteran will chime in.

With that aside. The whole idea of regulated mods is safety, the chip wont allow the battery to overdue itself, or to get too low.
 

CNCguy11

Full Member
Feb 21, 2014
58
17
Indiana
Short answer, yes. If you have a higher amp limit on your battery, you will be able to push the limits on there a little further. So, say you have that 4 amp limit and you are using a 1.8 ohm single coil atomizer and running it at 4.2 volts, you would be pulling around 2.3 amps. Well within the 4 amp limit on the battery. Now say you get a 1 ohm atomizer and try to run it at 4.2 volts, that would come out to 4.2 amps putting you out of the battery amp limit range.
 
Short answer, yes. If you have a higher amp limit on your battery, you will be able to push the limits on there a little further. So, say you have that 4 amp limit and you are using a 1.8 ohm single coil atomizer and running it at 4.2 volts, you would be pulling around 2.3 amps. Well within the 4 amp limit on the battery. Now say you get a 1 ohm atomizer and try to run it at 4.2 volts, that would come out to 4.2 amps putting you out of the battery amp limit range.

That makes sense. Thanks, brother. :)

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