IPV D2 announced.

[Croak]

I've built my Velocity that way before too. It does indeed work, and work well. It gets plenty of air across the center since the side airflow from both sides has to pass over the coil on its way up to the drip tip. Plus you have the secondary air holes on a Velocity to supplement. On a bottom airflow rta, I could see the center section being a bit of an issue, but even then not a major one.

It's especially useful with DNA40 devices and that cursed 0.1 ohm limit, when you really want to run a functional (functional=doesn't take all week to heat up) nickel build in a "dual coil-only" atty, without resorting to 30ga wire.

(Not my build there, just illustrating the point)

 

[Flt Simulation]

Is the iPV D2 available in silver?

I would like to buy one of these, but if the black finish is not durable, hopefully a silver finish might be.

 

[Croak]

Silver is coming, but it's not available yet. And silver is going to be a paint too, only plus is that the scratches and nicks that will still happen will be less visible.

 

[CrazyIvan]

tobeco clone ks rta looks decent, vapes amazing for $15!! ti 28awg .3 build 7ml juice!

Just bought the black one as well. For the price, why not. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[VapeGyver]

Fluid Vapes - The #1 USA Online Vapor Store $49.99 in stock

Crap, I shoulda did some shopping around myself, but not for the D2, the new Smok TFV4 tank. I just paid $50 from sweet-vapes.com and fluidvapes has the same kit for $35. Doh!!!!!!!

I almost went with them found a coupon code and everything. .. I'm pretty sure they still have them in stock & with the coupon code
" fluidfluid " you get 10 - 15% off I think it was going to come out to $42 + $4 shipping (that shipping was from California to Florida).

 

[Flt Simulation]

Another thing I am concerned about is the fact that the iPV D2 does not have a Buck/Boost DC-DC power converter in it. So, there is no voltage step-down while operating in the 'power' mode ... Maybe it will stepdown using PWM (rattlesnake), but that is not a very good way of stepping down voltage below what battery voltage is.

The reason I am concerned with all this is because I like making a single Kanthal 1.5 ohm coil and feeding it 10 watts of power ... That requires 3.7 volts (which is lower than a fully charged battery).

You would think that all these new chipsets being used nowdays would have a Buck/Boost DC-DC converter in them, but for some strange reason, this D2 don't seem to have one.

oh well ...

 

[Mazam]

Canvape.com just listed the D2 last night so it's near time for me to order.


everyone happy with the work-around to get lower Watts?

I saw no issues the first few days.

Issue popped up tonight where it stopped firing though. Almost like the TC was actually kicking in half a second into the vape and cutting off the power. This went n for about 20 minutes, until switching from the NI setting over to the Ti got it working again.

Pretty weird.

 

[Flt Simulation]

Here is something I am having a hard time understanding ... I understand that the D2 has a max power of 75 watts while in the "Power" mode, but only has a max power output of 50 joules while operating in the "Temp Control" mode.

The way I understand it is that 1 joule = 1 watt

So, why less maximum power available in the Temp mode?

 

[AtmizrOpin]

F¿€kin finally... Never doin a preorder again!!! Cancelled the preorder with EFT & I got the IPV D2 at a local shop here in Clearwater Florida called Resistance Premium Vapor Supply. They are the shiz.
I don't know what people are talking about in regards to it having a cool vape, it gets super warm for me.
I have my Magma set up with a 26 gauge NI200 single coil going between the posts getting hit by both air intakes. It's 1ohms at 420° F 30J and it's phenomenal. I tried to upload pics but it says the file from my Galaxy S6 is to large.

NM. Already posted

 

[Scotticus93]

Another thing I am concerned about is the fact that the iPV D2 does not have a Buck/Boost DC-DC power converter in it. So, there is no voltage step-down while operating in the 'power' mode ... Maybe it will stepdown using PWM (rattlesnake), but that is not a very good way of stepping down voltage below what battery voltage is.

The reason I am concerned with all this is because I like making a single Kanthal 1.5 ohm coil and feeding it 10 watts of power ... That requires 3.7 volts (which is lower than a fully charged battery).

You would think that all these new chipsets being used nowdays would have a Buck/Boost DC-DC converter in them, but for some strange reason, this D2 don't seem to have one.

oh well ...

I can't only respond to this in one way. Why do you want a 75 watt mod if you only wanna vape at 10 watts?

 

[Scotticus93]

Here is something I am having a hard time understanding ... I understand that the D2 has a max power of 75 watts while in the "Power" mode, but only has a max power output of 50 joules while operating in the "Temp Control" mode.

The way I understand it is that 1 joule = 1 watt

So, why less maximum power available in the Temp mode?

I'm assuming and don't quote me but since tc is so low ohm. Running higher wattage could put you over the amp limit. Actually that doesn't make any sense. Thing is more powerful than a DNA 40 tho and I think the m class only goes to 50 joules too. So go freakin d2

 

[crxess]

Here is something I am having a hard time understanding ... I understand that the D2 has a max power of 75 watts while in the "Power" mode, but only has a max power output of 50 joules while operating in the "Temp Control" mode.

The way I understand it is that 1 joule = 1 watt

So, why less maximum power available in the Temp mode?

I do believe they are concerned with the Low resistance of Ni/TI and keeping a safe limit on things. Remember to this is only a single 18650 mod. Even in Power mode 75w is going to be a bit brutal on a single battery.

Your 10 watt build will work great with the mod set to TC/NI and 10w - No temp control though. You still need to lock the base resistance for smooth performance.
Our little functional work around.

----------------------------------------
Magma build will not really matter as mine are dedicated to the (2) Cloupor mini's. The new tank will live on the D2 if the build works out as planned.

 

[rhelton]

Im surprised they let it have 75w in power mode. I have a sx350 60w and it beats battery's up really bad at 60w. I vape from 25-45 on it and dont see 45 that very often. Right now I have a sub tank rba in with a kanthal 1.15ohm twisted 28 running at 17w. Its a pretty sweet vape, I need to figure out how to get that style of vape in TC. It really throttles thing back

 

[VapingTurtle]

... Maybe it will stepdown using PWM (rattlesnake), but that is not a very good way of stepping down voltage below what battery voltage is.

The reason I am concerned with all this is because I like making a single Kanthal 1.5 ohm coil and feeding it 10 watts of power ... That requires 3.7 volts (which is lower than a fully charged battery).

(You hit on some of my pet peeves.)

1. All of our buck converters in ecigs use switched regulation (except for a very few ancient, obsolete mods that use inefficient linear converters). The output signal of a switched regulator is PWM. That does not mean they all have a rattlesnake effect. The signal is most often filtered or of a high enough frequency so that it does not produce any rattlesnake effect.

2. If you like 10 watts, just make your coil 1.7 ohms instead of 1.5 ohms. One extra wrap, and your problem is resolved.


Bonus question: can anyone name a mod that does not use a switched regulator?

 

[Scotticus93]

(You hit on some of my pet peeves.)

1. All of our buck converters in ecigs use switched regulation (except for a very few ancient, obsolete mods that use inefficient linear converters). The output signal of a switched regulator is PWM. That does not mean they all have a rattlesnake effect. The signal is most often filtered or of a high enough frequency so that it does not produce any rattlesnake effect.

2. If you like 10 watts, just make your coil 1.7 ohms instead of 1.5 ohms. One extra wrap, and your problem is resolved.


Bonus question: can anyone name a mod that does not use a switched regulator?

Trick question. A mech mod Ha! What do I get?

 

[AtmizrOpin]

DNA boards have a flat dc dc signal.

 

[rhelton]

Another thing I am concerned about is the fact that the iPV D2 does not have a Buck/Boost DC-DC power converter in it. So, there is no voltage step-down while operating in the 'power' mode ... Maybe it will stepdown using PWM (rattlesnake), but that is not a very good way of stepping down voltage below what battery voltage is.

The reason I am concerned with all this is because I like making a single Kanthal 1.5 ohm coil and feeding it 10 watts of power ... That requires 3.7 volts (which is lower than a fully charged battery).

You would think that all these new chipsets being used nowdays would have a Buck/Boost DC-DC converter in them, but for some strange reason, this D2 don't seem to have one.

oh well ...

The output voltage in power mode is 3.6v-7v, I have a 1.14 ohm coil installed and a fresh cell and it is stepping down for sure. So if your after 3.7 then your going to be happy cause it does it

 

[VapingTurtle]

Trick question. A mech mod Ha! What do I get?

My approval!
Now, what I should have asked:
Bonus question: can anyone name a regulated mod that does not use a switched regulator? (i.e., a mod that uses a linear regulator)

DNA boards have a flat dc dc signal.

It uses a switched DC regulator and therefore outputs a PWM signal. If it is a flat trace when it bucks it is because it is filtered/buffered. Only alternative is a linear regulator, a resistance circuit, which is very inefficient and no longer used.

The output voltage in power mode is 3.6v-7v, I have a 1.14 ohm coil installed and a fresh cell and it is stepping down for sure. So if your after 3.7 then your going to be happy cause it does it

I donno.. I don't have one... but others in this thread have stated the opposite. It has been said that it does not buck in power mode (non-TC mode). Did you check the output voltage with an in-line meter, or just look at the display, or is that what the specs say?

 

[rhelton]

My approval!
Now, what I should have asked:
Bonus question: can anyone name a regulated mod that does not use a switched regulator? (i.e., a mod that uses a linear regulator)



It uses a switched DC regulator and therefore outputs a PWM signal. If it is a flat trace when it bucks it is because it is filtered/buffered. Only alternative is a linear regulator, a resistance circuit, which is very inefficient and no longer used. Yihi would not spec 3.6 as the low voltage limit if it was not the case.



I donno.. I don't have one... but others in this thread have stated the opposite. It has been said that it does not buck in power mode (non-TC mode). Did you check the output voltage with an in-line meter, or just look at the display, or is that what the specs say?

Its what the specs say. I can tell that once you get down under 3.6 on the screen it stays at that voltage even down at 7watts. With a fresh cell I can tell the difference going from 4.2 on the screen down to 3.6 and around that point the power stays the same. I dont have a inline meter just going by feel on a 1.14 ohm coil.

 

[rhelton]

Yihi is not going to spec the low voltage limit at 3.6 if it will not fire that low. Were not dealing with clouper or some cheap brand of board.