IPV D2 announced.
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Mine just came in from VapeNW, 2 days from Seattle to Central Florida.
And, it's got a nice matte black sleeve pre-installed on it.
Bummer is you have to remove the atty to remove the sleeve.
And, it's got a nice matte black sleeve pre-installed on it.
Bummer is you have to remove the atty to remove the sleeve.
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Canvape.com just listed the D2 last night so it's near time for me to order.
everyone happy with the work-around to get lower Watts?
everyone happy with the work-around to get lower Watts?
I haven't had any issues with low watts in power mode, I've ran it at 13 watts without dry hits in a eleaf gs air. Using a high voltage 35amp battery.
Good info thank youWith a DNA40 or clone, yeah, you'd likely need 30ga to be able to fit a dual coil build inside a 22mm atty, because of the 0.1 ohm low limit. And even if you had an atty that you could comfortably fit a 0.1 ohm dual 28g or 26g build in (like the Velocity), the coil mass of one of those 14-22 wrap (per coil) monsters results in a really slow ramp up time, and in the case of 26ga, it's not even what I'd call usable.
But thanks to Yihi, that low limit is 0.05 ohms, which means you need half the wraps, half the space, and on top of that, now you've got at least 20% more power to throw at the coils to help ramp up times.
And the qualitative difference between a good 26ga or 28ga Ni200 build compared to using 30ga is tangible. The thicker wire has more surface area, and that results in better flavor and a smoother vape, IMHO, at any resistance, provided you can put enough power to the coils. Not to mention how much less of a pain the thicker nickel is to work with.
Im on my second charge cycle with it and its performing pretty good, comparible to my vtc4's, they are a year old or so but its in that range. Im sure after a few more cycles it will, or should increase.
What atty is that? I dont know what Cpt is.
Cpt cap sittin flush, heck yes
Mine slides on and off with a subtank on it. Dripper get it wet in the process though.Mine just came in from VapeNW, 2 days from Seattle to Central Florida.
And, it's got a nice matte black sleeve pre-installed on it.
Bummer is you have to remove the atty to remove the sleeve.
My only complaint so far is that the up/down buttons take a lot of effort. They work fine, they're just stiffer than I'd like. With the sleeve on, they're a little bit easier to work, but not great.
Ill check that out
The buttons are stiff but have a nice click at the end.
Some people believe that after a couple of discharge/recharge cycles the storage capacity of a battery increases. I'm not so sure that it does.
The Secrets of Battery Runtime – Battery University
BU-701: How to Prime Batteries – Battery University
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What usually happens with many electronic devices isn't the battery getting better, it's that after a couple charge cycles, the onboard metering is properly calibrated.
Buy a Velocity.
I have been trying to find one of these! I was thinking of just getting the Vortice since its also a two post design.
My first TC mod, QUICK REVIEW:
Got mine today from VapeNW. I kept links to the vendors earlier in this thread, and most that had been originally advertised with a low price, some with free battery etc. now have NO freebies and higher prices then originally advertised. At $45 VapeNW was the best price two days ago, and with my order with some TC coils and colored o-rings, FREE two day shipping, and was processed and delivered in two days, impressive!
The IPV D2, came box wrapped, with the silicone sleeve installed, so I ASSUME, it's a IPV issued sleeve, though I'll be curious to see if the Sweet-Vapes sleeve when back in stock is any different, perhaps an after market sleeve. I also bought a Kanger Subtank Mini V2, and the included sleeve slides on/off without removing the Subtank Mini. I chose the Subtank Mini as it seemed the most versatile mass produced tank in terms of the range of factory made current coil options, as well as the newest revision of the RBA. Odd it came with an OCC 1.2 ohm vertical coil, but their website choices for a five pack of OCC vertical coils was, .5, and 1.5 ohms, so I got the 1.5's. My last Kanger Subtank Nano, had horizontal .5, and 1.2 ohm coils, which both mostly popped like fire crackers on me.
I also bought the Kanger .15 ohm TC coils, and put those in first. Using a light juice called "PIM, Philippine Mango", by Vape Chemist, 12 mg/ml, not sure the ratio, but believe it's a 50/50. My first TC mod, running at between 425-475 degrees at 25-35 joules, very impressed with flavor and vapor.
I will still enjoy my unregulated mech mod, Reo 14500 Mini with Chalice 3 bottom feed for low wattage flavor chasing, but this inexpensive tank setup covers me for both medium, and high wattage/joules vaping and of course TEMP CONTROL. Even with the lack of buck voltage ability in wattage mode, not a big factor for me on this setup, I'd give it a strong thumbs UP! So far the best battery and tank combo I have owned, including iSticks and mech mods too.
I still have to learn the interaction between the temperature and joules settings in TC mode, my friends new iStick 40 TC, only allows TC adjustments using temperature, which PBusardo in his iStick 40 review thought was a plus. Perhaps having both joules and temperature control on the D2, is better with more fine grain control, any opinions on that?
Got mine today from VapeNW. I kept links to the vendors earlier in this thread, and most that had been originally advertised with a low price, some with free battery etc. now have NO freebies and higher prices then originally advertised. At $45 VapeNW was the best price two days ago, and with my order with some TC coils and colored o-rings, FREE two day shipping, and was processed and delivered in two days, impressive!
The IPV D2, came box wrapped, with the silicone sleeve installed, so I ASSUME, it's a IPV issued sleeve, though I'll be curious to see if the Sweet-Vapes sleeve when back in stock is any different, perhaps an after market sleeve. I also bought a Kanger Subtank Mini V2, and the included sleeve slides on/off without removing the Subtank Mini. I chose the Subtank Mini as it seemed the most versatile mass produced tank in terms of the range of factory made current coil options, as well as the newest revision of the RBA. Odd it came with an OCC 1.2 ohm vertical coil, but their website choices for a five pack of OCC vertical coils was, .5, and 1.5 ohms, so I got the 1.5's. My last Kanger Subtank Nano, had horizontal .5, and 1.2 ohm coils, which both mostly popped like fire crackers on me.
I also bought the Kanger .15 ohm TC coils, and put those in first. Using a light juice called "PIM, Philippine Mango", by Vape Chemist, 12 mg/ml, not sure the ratio, but believe it's a 50/50. My first TC mod, running at between 425-475 degrees at 25-35 joules, very impressed with flavor and vapor.
I will still enjoy my unregulated mech mod, Reo 14500 Mini with Chalice 3 bottom feed for low wattage flavor chasing, but this inexpensive tank setup covers me for both medium, and high wattage/joules vaping and of course TEMP CONTROL. Even with the lack of buck voltage ability in wattage mode, not a big factor for me on this setup, I'd give it a strong thumbs UP! So far the best battery and tank combo I have owned, including iSticks and mech mods too.
I still have to learn the interaction between the temperature and joules settings in TC mode, my friends new iStick 40 TC, only allows TC adjustments using temperature, which PBusardo in his iStick 40 review thought was a plus. Perhaps having both joules and temperature control on the D2, is better with more fine grain control, any opinions on that?
Yeah, set your temp to taste, and your joules high enough for a satisfactory ramp-up time. With the iStick TC you have no control over how fast you heat your coil, just what heat it'll settle in at. Not such a big deal with those tiny coils in pre-made heads, but fairly important with rebuildables.
I thought joules was the equivalent of wattage mode with Kanthal coils, hotter or colder vape, more or less vapor. With most TC mods, like this D2, you are suggesting the joules mode, mostly effects how fast or slow the coil heats up (ramping) correct? I've done some Kanthal builds on my Chalice 3 RBA, and thought the general consensus was one would desire the fastest wattage/voltage RAMP UP, as possible, why would one want a slower one? Thanks!
My take on this:
Yes. Joules is equivalent of watts. Basically throws however many joules(watts) at it to get it to the set temp, and then cuts the joules(watts) down to hold that set temp.
As for the ability to lower it, or slower as you state, you wont need 50 joules to heat up a small coil, it'd be a waste. So you can lower it to the necessary number to get the performance you like.
Im still learning TC, and have nickel dropping off any time today. But that is my take on it. Could be wrong, and I hope someone points it out if I am.
Ive been vaping on my first TC dripper for the last couple hours on the D2. 28g ni200 2.5mm 9 wraps .11ohms contact single coil on 454 big block, leads wrapped around screw heads. Nickle is harsh till it breaks in im realizing, its kinda a instant thing, a few harsh hits then smooth all of a sudden (weird). Its ok, I think a twisted wire will be better cause thats my norm ill try that next but so far so good.
I did not mean it would gain mah rating like its short in capacity. But performance curves will flatten when they do break in. This can give the user a feeling its gained in mah rating, buts what happened is the discharge curve is more even.
I did not mean it would gain mah rating like its short in capacity. But performance curves will flatten when they do break in. This can give the user a feeling its gained in mah rating, buts what happened is the discharge curve is more even.
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