Due to the fact that ni200 doesn't develop an oxidized layer(actually this part could be irrelevant) & that water conducts electricity wouldn't that just short out the coil & send it into the "no liquid"(temp limiting) cutoff?
IPV D2 announced.
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Due to the fact that ni200 doesn't develop an oxidized layer(actually this part could be irrelevant) & that water conducts electricity wouldn't that just short out the coil & send it into the "no liquid"(temp limiting) cutoff?
I'm pretty sure it's upper limit in Ti mode it's 1ohm. Slowerhead got a little pissy with me yesterday for saying it too.
I tried it a few min ago. With the resistance unlocked, temp at 400 it boils the water off till its gone then goes into "no liquid" mode. I did it a couple times and it did clean the coil, not completely but pretty good. The coil looks good and vapes like it should. When I dry fired that coil I had the temp set to max, resistance unlocked it made the coil glow. Not super red hot like we get kanthal but it was red. The coil was kinda grey and chalky looking afterwards. Dont try that its not good it made my lungs burn a little.
Toss any Grey coil, it is damaged and the powder is what they are warning about.
Bump heating is okay, but replacement if gunked should always be a consideration.
Bump heating is okay, but replacement if gunked should always be a consideration.
Any grey coil includes NiChrome I presume or are you just talking Ti ?
Looks like school's been in session for some students. (It still surprises and concerns me to see how long some folks have been vaping but still have little knowledge about ohm's law.) On a different note...Due to wire thickness(ga.)
Otherwise why offer Higher resistance heads?
They also do not consider whether the tank will go on a Mechanical or Regulated mod.
Equipment variations dictate much toward total wattage used.
Low air Flow or Small coil/wick chambers need/require less power or bad things happen.
High Air flow big coil base tanks will Flood at low wattage from over saturation.
Unless you understand the build requirements nothing works right.
For my first Ti build (and based on what I've been reading over the past few weeks about wires from various vendors), I didn't want to mess around initially with anything other than Spider Silk which arrived today. This 26g wire is smooth with no chemical residue whatsoever after cleaning it with a cotton ball soaked with iso alcohol. I've started with a simple single coil 7/6 wraps 3mm @ 0.314ohms in Ti mode on my Velocity RDA. After working my way up to max 572F, anything lower than 500-525F won't offer a satisfying vape on this simple build in Ti mode. As others have mentioned, I changed it to Ni200 mode and 400-450F seems to offer the vape I prefer with thicker clouds and more flavor. I also chain-vaped around 7 or 8 long pulls, and after the last one it would not fire (possibly due to the heat but not sure) and it did not display the no liquid message. Later I made the mistake of putting it in power mode without re-adjusting/lowering the wattage and I nearly gagged from the dry hit. Also, twice I got the "check bat" message during this time and will clean the negative battery terminal (and probably the positive one too) which I believe/hope should fix that issue. What I can say initially is TC works great and I have no qualms about it on this mod.
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I tested charging amps with the supplied IPV D2 USB cable using an inexpensive inline USB voltage tester. Using a 1 amp iPhone USB charger and a 2.1 amp iPad charger. Both show .87 amps being pulled. I saw less then .50 amps if I also used an additional USB to USB extension cord. Like most electronics these days, they only pull the amps they need to charge.
Sorry for not Clarifying - Ti wire. The Grey is Titanium oxides.
Side effect of running an incorrect algorithm for the wire type.
I'm receiving my IPV D2 in the mail today from NW Vapers. I'm a high VG juice mouth to lung vaper. For TC use on the IPV D2 I've got an OBS T-VCT tank with 0.25 ohm ni200 coils, and a Mini Nautilus with vAir-T 0.3 ohm ni200 coils. I've put my narrow Kayfun drip tip on the OBS tank to assist with creating a tighter MTL draw on that.
Previously I've been doing "okay" running thinned high VG juice in T2s, iClear 16s or the Mini Nautilus on vv/vw devices like the iTaste V3 or iStick 30W. Even with thinned juice though, and running at modest voltage ranges, I still tend to clog and burn up wick/coil heads pretty quickly - within 2 days typically. So I am very interested in what TC has to offer me in getting a good MTL vape while still not killing my coil heads every other day.
Using the above described ni200 coil heads and tanks on the IPV D2, what nickel temperature and joule settings do you think I should start at, and what settings range do you think I should try to stick to? I have Subtank Mini as well, but haven't bothered with getting any ni200 coils for it yet as it wasn't all that great for MTL using stock 1.2 ohm OCC heads.
Previously I've been doing "okay" running thinned high VG juice in T2s, iClear 16s or the Mini Nautilus on vv/vw devices like the iTaste V3 or iStick 30W. Even with thinned juice though, and running at modest voltage ranges, I still tend to clog and burn up wick/coil heads pretty quickly - within 2 days typically. So I am very interested in what TC has to offer me in getting a good MTL vape while still not killing my coil heads every other day.
Using the above described ni200 coil heads and tanks on the IPV D2, what nickel temperature and joule settings do you think I should start at, and what settings range do you think I should try to stick to? I have Subtank Mini as well, but haven't bothered with getting any ni200 coils for it yet as it wasn't all that great for MTL using stock 1.2 ohm OCC heads.
It isn't magic. If your e-liquid gunks coils it will continue. Maybe a little less, maybe not.
Sounds like your low power usage and coil failure is due to over wicking and caking the coil/wick with partially cooked e-liquid.
A Balance needs to occur to reduce excessive wicking without running dry.
More wicking or less thinning, or increased air flow/wattage.
Balance is the only solution to maximize coil life. Your tank choices may have to change for a good MTL Vape.
**ProTank with AFC Base works well for MTL, but good luck getting coil heads for TC.
*** Kayfun PLUS(w/AFC) is an excellent MTL Tank with the right adjustments and Tip.
I have a Kayfun Lite Plus I haven't used in a long time, just because I never have much time for building coils and getting the wick right. Getting the wick to last anything longer than a day on the Kayfun was something I never achieved, but I enjoyed the vape very much when everything was working right.
With my current gear it is the occasional dry hits that are really killing the wicks early. After that is when the coil gunk builds up, but by the then the vape is already heading south. Even on a Mini Nautilus, even after coil break-in, I can't go higher than 4-4.2 volts without getting too many dry hits on the 2nd to largest airflow hole. The juice is still probably too thick (I only thin it so much), but if I thin the VG too much I end up with other problems, and a less than satisfactory vape anyway.
I think being able to ramp up power and get the heat going fast, while preventing dry hits with TC would really help out. At least that is what I'm hoping for. It seems like that should help a lot anyway. I just want a good idea where to start with the IPV D2's settings to accomplish the desired result with the specified (or similar) ni200 coiled toppers.
With my current gear it is the occasional dry hits that are really killing the wicks early. After that is when the coil gunk builds up, but by the then the vape is already heading south. Even on a Mini Nautilus, even after coil break-in, I can't go higher than 4-4.2 volts without getting too many dry hits on the 2nd to largest airflow hole. The juice is still probably too thick (I only thin it so much), but if I thin the VG too much I end up with other problems, and a less than satisfactory vape anyway.
I think being able to ramp up power and get the heat going fast, while preventing dry hits with TC would really help out. At least that is what I'm hoping for. It seems like that should help a lot anyway. I just want a good idea where to start with the IPV D2's settings to accomplish the desired result with the specified (or similar) ni200 coiled toppers.
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Wow.........just Wow.
My Cappuccino DIY is only good for 3-4 days in a Kayfun, but most of my Kayfuns could run for weeks without re-wicks.
Yes, as soon a you get a Dry Hit the wick is damaged and will no longer wick as well. it will also reduce transfer to coil at the damaged section.
You definitely have to find that fluid balance.
Even with TC the only thing you will accomplish is shutting down(Dry Coil) until you fix the Mix/Wick issues.
Haha, unfortunately I think the hardest part is finding them in stock at all. If you can find it in stock, that's probably the best price you'll find
Here is where I got mine for 47.95 free shipping. I did add the 2buck something upgrade on shipping which got it too my door in three days along with a new battery for 4.50. Ill use these guy's again, they ship same say and I like that.
IPV D2 Box Mod 75W
Do you have a subtank. The rba base seems to work ok with TC. I use 70vg/30pg juice which is high VG in most cases.
If there were no pics I wouldnt come here lol.
size comparison and because everyone loves PICTURES
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